Sanke Conical Project

Hey guys so I've been dying to convert one of my sankes to a conical fermenter. I currently just us them right side up and a airlock + stopper combo. My plan thus far is to flip the sanke upside down, attached legs to it, and then drill in a hole in the top big enough for an input and airlock + stopper.

I have a 2" triclamp concentric reducer to 1.5" then a 90 degree triclamp elbow into a ball valve.

Nothing is set in stone right now I am hoping to get some creative discussion from HBTers. One topic I want to discuss is how should I do the top of the sanke? Should i cut a larger opening and then leave a glass lid with an air lock?

What is the best way to do transfers? I know gravity isn't going to be sufficient so I need to figure out a way to do CO2 transfers.

Just got my order in the mail from brewershardware.com so I'll attach a few pics of what I have so far.

Also I attached pictures of the legs that I will be constructing.

I would not go with a large hole for the top if you want to be able to transfer under CO2 pressure. I would go for a whole sized for one of the commonly available stopper sizes, that would be a little easier to maintain a seal on under 1-2 PSI of CO2.

I do have to say though, I don't see the advantage, unless you could add a racking port, or the lid had a steep enough angle to all you to dump yeast/trub.
I may just be missing something here though so feel free to enlighten me.

Well I haven't thought of all the advantages as of yet. This is initially an ease of use/aesthetic project. Also, I wanted to be able to dump the yeast easier before racking. And with the proper co2 setup can easily transfer to other sankes for conditioning. A racking arm would be ideal but right now a stretch. This project is in its infancy but I love to think about all the possible sanke conversions.

Dr. Phil, I also have a Sanke that I am wanting to convert to a fermenter. I am planning to install a faucet as low as possible on the side of the keg to rack into kegs without disturbing the yeast/trub. Then open the bottom faucet to harvest the yeast for reuse. I have also decided to make the hole in the top large so I can get in and clean it effectively. I am currently using glass carboys and looking forward to getting away from them. The only thing I will miss is watching that great fermentation action in those glass caboys. (I do like that part.)

Not to burst any bubbles, but if you want a conical so you can dump trub/collect yeast, this isn't getting it done. You need a 60 degree slope (or at least close) or else your trub won't slide down to the port.

I hate to rain on the DIY parade here as well, but that valve/TC combo isnt going to cut it. I bought the nice fancy 1.5" Butterfly valve from BrewersHardware.com and even then I have issues getting the yeast to dump sometimes. Your pics look like you have the 1.5" TC elbow reduced to 1/2" Ball Valve. I would be extremely surprised if you got any flow once the yeast starts to settle.

daksin said:

Not to burst any bubbles, but if you want a conical so you can dump trub/collect yeast, this isn't getting it done. You need a 60 degree slope (or at least close) or else your trub won't slide down to the port.

Click to expand...

I actually read that 45° is enough, and the 60° was a throughback from when they first were developed and based off normal silo/hoppers for dry powders. But I agree, you want at least some sort of a cone to collect the yeast otherwise you will pull only the middle part and leave a lot behind. Just think about when you open up a corney once it is finished, I usually get pretty clear beer all the way to the end (no cut dip tunes or anything) but when I look inside the bottom is caked in sediment except a tiny area around the dip tube.

Bummer.

Boo! Well I had the TC parts lying around and thought I could do something interesting with them. Going to go through with the project anyways and see how it turns out. I appreciate the feedback and information. If it isn't successful I will turn it into a bottom drain MLT.

Don't cut it before you read THIS. Unless you're specifically using the keg as a bottom drain vessel, you're going to waste a perfectly good fermenter.

I know. I already use two other sankes as fermenters. Going to hold off for a week or so.

Not accounting for slope but could you use triclamp into a straight section, use a 90 deg tee, straight. Use the horizontal of tee for ball valve and let yeast settle in bottom of vertical drop?

That's what I originally had thought would work. I'm assuming by the replies there wouldn't be enough trub/yeast in the center of the bottom. Would be great to experiment with to see if enough yeast settles to make it worth a dump.

I have a spare keg I was thinking of doing the exact same thing with. Once upside down I wand to cut a hole in the shape of a corney keg lid to allow for easy cleaning an air lock and the ability to do c02 transfer. Anyone seen this?

You'd need an airlock so corny lid would be nice.

DrPhilGood said:

Hey guys so I've been dying to convert one of my sankes to a conical fermenter. I currently just us them right side up and a airlock + stopper combo. My plan thus far is to flip the sanke upside down, attached legs to it, and then drill in a hole in the top big enough for an input and airlock + stopper.

I have a 2" triclamp concentric reducer to 1.5" then a 90 degree triclamp elbow into a ball valve.

Nothing is set in stone right now I am hoping to get some creative discussion from HBTers. One topic I want to discuss is how should I do the top of the sanke? Should i cut a larger opening and then leave a glass lid with an air lock?

What is the best way to do transfers? I know gravity isn't going to be sufficient so I need to figure out a way to do CO2 transfers.

Just got my order in the mail from brewershardware.com so I'll attach a few pics of what I have so far.

Also I attached pictures of the legs that I will be constructing.

Click to expand...

nice how was your DIY project, i was thinking something similar any advice?

ScubaSteve said:

Don't cut it before you read THIS. Unless you're specifically using the keg as a bottom drain vessel, you're going to waste a perfectly good fermenter.

Click to expand...

That's the direction I'm going. I've got two 1/4 bbl's that I'm going to use for 6 gallon batches.

OP, I was going to suggest a 4" TC flange welded to the top (bottom) of the keg with a cover could give good access, but honestly, I don't think I would cut and weld on a sanke fermentor at all since it will be impossible to get a sanitary weld on the interior.

I think I'm going to make an angled nozzle for my pressure washer for cleaning, and just go in through the valve hole.