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storytyme

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I know there are a ton of posts out there for burners and kettles.....I just don't have the time to go through all of them. I will keep this simple. I want to upgrade my turkey fryer partial 5 gallon boils to full boil 5 gallon batches. I want a kettle with a valve to eliminate the lifting and I need a new burner and stand so it is high enough to feed into my fermenter easily. Budget isn't a concern right now...just need ideas. Looking forward to the replies......I appreciate this site and everyone that is on it. Thank you in advance.
 
Blickmann burner hands down there. Get the longer legs if you need/want. You have options on the kettle. You can either get one of several pre-made versions make/models or build a keggle. I've gone through a BoilerMaker, and two other kettles (I made both of those) before moving to a keggle. If you only want to buy one pre-made then you need to look at the ones available. I will mention that, contrary to normal cooking, tri-ply bottoms are of not much benefit to us. Look at the 10 gallon offerings, 15 gallon too if you think you'll ever want to have more post boil. Just be sure that the kettle is of solid construction. If there's a LHBS near you that has some, at least on display, check them out in person. If it feels light, or flimsy, discard it as an option.
 
If budget is no concern, get the blichman burner with extension legs and a blichman pot. You're done. If budget is a concern, there are many alternatives.
 
The bayou classic SP50 has taller legs and is about $70 online. The shorter models SQ14 and SP10 are about $50.

Keep in mind that your larger 10 gallon kettle full volume boil will likely need equipment to chill the wort from boiling to yeast pitching temps. Immersion Chiller, Counter flow chiller and plate chiller are common solutions. If you use a pump with the chiller then the burner height is no longer an issue.

On they low end you can get a thick AL kettle for $40 and add a valve. On the high end you can spend >$300 on a bilchman SS Kettle.
 
The bayou classic SP50 has taller legs and is about $70 online. The shorter models SQ14 and SP10 are about $50.

Keep in mind that your larger 10 gallon kettle full volume boil will likely need equipment to chill the wort from boiling to yeast pitching temps. Immersion Chiller, Counter flow chiller and plate chiller are common solutions. If you use a pump with the chiller then the burner height is no longer an issue.

On they low end you can get a thick AL kettle for $40 and add a valve. On the high end you can spend >$300 on a bilchman SS Kettle.

Actually, height is still a concern. You need to have the pump head lower than the valve in the kettle/keggle so that it primes the pump before you turn it on. Also, the OP wants to be able to run the cooled wort directly into the fermenting vessel with the kettle still on the burner.

A quick search, and read of reviews of the SP50 (on Amazon) would give me serious pause IF I was looking at one. Plus, it's shorter than the Blichmann with the longer legs (24" legs).

If you want to purchase a burner that you'll NEVER need to replace, get the Blichmann. I wish I had gotten one first, instead of the Bayou KAB4.
 
I use a bayou classic double burner stove...it has adjustable legs and I can put two 60qt kettles on it at the same time. Its been a workhorse for 4 years, no complaints...they even have awesome customer service as it tipped over once (my fault 100%) broke a brass gas piece and Bayou replaced it for free with the knowledge it was my fault it broke, they even tossed in two of the parts so now I have a backup. As for kettles, I have pieced them together over the years and done my own work to install the ball valves and site glasses. I don't own a blichmann kettle and don't plan on it for two reasons, cost and they don't have an aluminum bottom plate like many SS kettles due, which I prefer for various reasons. I am building an electric rig right now and I will be buying a MoreBeer heavy duty kettle for my mashtun when its time to give up the coolers...I would recommend taking a look at those as an option.
 
Thank you for the replies. As far as the Blichmann I know it is the best of the best, but right now it is not realistic for the bank account. I am not using any pumps nor do I want to at this time. Just want a solid kettle to do a FULL boil for a 5 gallon batch and a tall enough burner that I can attach a hose to the ball valve and let it run into the carboy. I do have a wort chiller already. Any other ideas on something between a newbie turkey fryer set-up and the Blichmann dream set-up?? Thanks.
 
Are you handy? Do you either have, or have friends with some pretty basic tools (good drill, right angle grinder or even saws-all)?? If so, see about making a keggle. Simple ball valve and dip tube assembly can be made for not a lot of money. Cheaper with brass hardware, better (but a few dollars more) with a stainless ball valve. Biggest items are getting the keg, then cutting/drilling it.

Otherwise, if you at least have (or have access to) a decent drill, go to a restaurant supply store and get a 40qt aluminum stock pot. Drill that and install the ball valve and dip tube assembly. Probably run you under $100 for the kettle that way.
 
I am pretty handy and could do that for sure. Wouldn't a 5 gallon full boil batch be a little crazy to do in a 15 gal keggle??
 
I am pretty handy and could do that for sure. Wouldn't a 5 gallon full boil batch be a little crazy to do in a 15 gal keggle??

Not really, since you'll start off with at least 6-7 gallons. Just means you're "future proofing" your kettle. :D

If you were within driving distance of me, I'd offer to help you out. I have a legit source for the base kegs. Plus, I have the tools to make my own dip tubes. So no worries about ordering the wrong one. :D
 
This is what I use until I built my stand. It was good for 11 gallon batches and stable with a keggle
 
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Not really, since you'll start off with at least 6-7 gallons. Just means you're "future proofing" your kettle. :D

If you were within driving distance of me, I'd offer to help you out. I have a legit source for the base kegs. Plus, I have the tools to make my own dip tubes. So no worries about ordering the wrong one. :D

What is a good price for a used Keggle in decent shape? I have seen some for sale, but have no clue if they are a "deal" or not.
 
What is a good price for a used Keggle in decent shape? I have seen some for sale, but have no clue if they are a "deal" or not.

It all depends. I've seen some listed for as low as $25 or as much as $100. Last time I got some kegs (a month or so ago) 1/2 barrel kegs (in good condition, as in minor dings at most) were $75 each (no shipping).
 
Are all stainless steel kettles the same? (I assume not). What specs should I look for in a SS kettle?
 
Are all stainless steel kettles the same? (I assume not). What specs should I look for in a SS kettle?

No, they are not the same. You need to check thickness of the walls/bottom for one thing. Some are 1mm thick, but you're lucky (often) to even do that well. The cheaper ones are just that, cheaper/thinner metal. I've seen some that are either 20 or 22 gauge stainless sold at homebrew supply stores. IMO, that's just too damned thin for this application. I wouldn't go any thinner than 18 gauge wall thickness for anything. Of course, the keggle wall/bottom thickness is 1.3mm. :D

I would also look at the finish inside the kettle. IMO, you want smooth inside, outside doesn't matter much at all. But inside, you want smooth so that you can be 100% sure it's clean after each batch. A brushed finish can hide things you would have otherwise seen.

As someone already mentioned, go and look at ALL the options before picking. Don't let others decide for you.
 
I think I have narrowed my search down to two burners and two kettles. Additional feedback and owners of these I would love to hear from.

Burners:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080MJ3I/ref=asc_df_B00080MJ3I2295236?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=pg-1146-95-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395097&creativeASIN=B00080MJ3I

Looks really flimsy there. I wouldn't put any real weight onto it.

The better of the two options, but not one I'd go with.


Of the two, I'd suggest a third choice... The 10 gallon spike with a single fitting (bet I shocked Spike with that one :D). Get a ball valve (3-piece) and dip tube assembly for it (Bargain Fittings would be a good source) and be up and running for less $$. IMO/IME, a thermometer fitted into a boil kettle is just shy of useless. Using an IC it WILL get in the way. Been there, done that, NEVER doing it again. Better off spending part of what a decent dial thermometer would have cost you on an instant read, digital, thermometer you can use as needed.
 
Looks really flimsy there. I wouldn't put any real weight onto it.

The better of the two options, but not one I'd go with.


Of the two, I'd suggest a third choice... The 10 gallon spike with a single fitting (bet I shocked Spike with that one :D). Get a ball valve (3-piece) and dip tube assembly for it (Bargain Fittings would be a good source) and be up and running for less $$. IMO/IME, a thermometer fitted into a boil kettle is just shy of useless. Using an IC it WILL get in the way. Been there, done that, NEVER doing it again. Better off spending part of what a decent dial thermometer would have cost you on an instant read, digital, thermometer you can use as needed.

I like that option. No experience with a dip tube......shouldn't there be some kind of screen to filter out hops and such. Any cool DIY projects for such a thing....????
 
I like that option. No experience with a dip tube......shouldn't there be some kind of screen to filter out hops and such. Any cool DIY projects for such a thing....????

No screen needed. IMO, a hop spider is a MUCH better solution. Not only does it keep a lot of hop matter out of your system (fermenter, tubes, fittings) it also makes cleanup a lot easier.

If you like, PM me and we'll talk about setting up the dip tube once you have the kettle.

Or you can just purchase everything from one of several different vendors. NorCal will bend the dip tube to the length, and depth, you need. Add the 1/2" NPT to 1/2" compression fitting and you're pretty much there. Especially with the kettle having the bulkhead already installed (welded in place).
 
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