Consecration kit from MoreBeer

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Nice idea Nesto - soaking in cab would help to reduce any chance of harsh oak extraction (the chunks are almost all raw oak with only a little portion having come in contact with liquid before). It'd also add that little "winey" flavor that Consecration tends to have. Probably not much, but definitely couldn't hurt! That's also a good point on the Roselare, as it is very true that the pedio and lacto will lower the pH slowly stunting the brett until it is no longer active, so wait to pitch the bugs. I pitched a vial of Brett B and Brett L in mine as well, but we have 12 gallons in a barrel right now so wasn't able to separate them out for the brett ferment. Ours is sitting in the laundry room and fluctuates between 67-80F, but a little warmer or colder wouldn't hurt (very temperature tolerable as you had mentioned).

Great idea again on the soaking oak in cabernet before adding. If there are indeed live bugs on the oak that might also give them the chance to begin a colony, so maybe try using a lower alcohol cab (if you can find one) to give them a better chance of survival. Although, I'm not certain how they'll react, so soaking them is completely up to the brewer's discretion. Cheers!
 
Also - if anybody has any questions on the IBU's of this kit please PM me or email our customer service department at [email protected]. There was some discussion on it being "overhopped", and depending on your own personal setup at home, hop utilizations will vary. We provide enough hops to get people to the appropriate amount of IBUs no matter what their setup, but some people brew in keggles, some people have kettles, some people do partial boils, some people brew 5 gallons in a 15 gallon kettle, others use an 8 gallon kettle, some people have a raging boil, others have a calmer boil, etc. Hop utilization is to hops as mash efficiency is to grains - everyone will see a slightly different number. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask me - we want everyone to be able to produce the best beer possible! On this note, if you don't have BeerSmith2 I would suggest investing in it - you can customize your kettle size, boil off %, etc so that you can hone in your recipes to be even more exact.

Cheers!
 
I just brewed a batch up yesterday and am planning to add Brett to the first secondary. Was hoping that the sacred oak chunks would provide the proprietary Russian River blend of bugs when I add that down the road. I had thought about trying an oak starter to see if I can coax some of those bugs out of hibernation. If anyone has harvested bugs from the consecration oak chunks, it would be great to hear about your results.

Cheers!
 
Yeah I'm really uncertain if those oak chunks will provide bugs or not, but it certainly would be cool to hear if anybody has tried, and what your technique was (if successful of course..)!

Cheers!
 
2. Consider NOT using Roeselare for the initial secondary. Only reporting on research here, not results, but Vinnie lets his brett blend (with no pedio or lacto) work for 7-8 weeks before pitching a brett/pedio/lacto blend (so use Roeselare after 7-8 week in secondary). Apparently the pedio and lacto can make the beer inhospitable for the brett (lowering pH), so he likes to give the brett a head start and pitch the bugs later.

Hmmm... already pitched the Roeselare a few days ago (no visible activity of any real sort yet). I have a pack of Brett Brux I don't have a use for. Any real drawback to adding this in? I'm thinking it might help with the race for the food before the pH drops too low.
 
Hey mmonacel,

Yeah I would recommend pitching that Brett B so there is more brett in there eating away at the residual sugar prior to letting the pedio and lacto have more than their fair share. Out of curiosity - what do you all think of adding a little 5.2 stabilizer if people have already pitched the pedio/lacto without giving the brett a head start? That would keep the pH at an acceptable level for the brett, or would it have negative effects on the beer if used in secondary?
 
FINALLY doing my kit today (got it un-milled so i could take my time...).

I was thinking of, after sparging the consecration wort, tossing in another few lbs of 2-row and doing a second running.

Any suggestions as to style and/or recipe? I'm thinking maybe some sort of dubbel with some more WLP530?

Edit: Just realized that I also have some washed 2112 and a packet or two of notty laying around...
 
A buddy and I brewed 2 batches this week and will be racking to secondary in a few days. I've got a question about pitching the Brett. Since Brett needs oxygen to reproduce, should I aerate in the secondary prior to pitching, or is adding oxygen at this stage going to introduce off-flavors like it would in other beers that aren't getting fresh yeast in secondary? Seems like no oxygen isn't going to let the Brett reproduce (bad), but I suppose it's possible to add too much (also bad)? Also, thoughts on making a Brett starter before pitching to secondary?


Another related question more out of curiosity--for those of you who let the Abbey Yeast finish out in primary, what was your FG? Wondering the difference between monitoring and cold crashing at 1.016 like Vinnie suggests or just letting the primary run its course and stop on its own. I'd imagine 2 pounds of currants adds plenty of food for the Brett in secondary...

Thanks guys!
-Carl
 
It's the barrels...The kit is a gimmick. If you don't have the same variables you won't get a like beer. The only way to clone a beer is by using the same variables. Those serious about brewing sours like Russian River does should contact wineries and local garden centers...The stuff people chop into half barrels might be more suitable for making sour beers than planters.

Good luck...find the barrels and go with a barrel process. Home brewers can pool ingredients and fill a barrel and get good results...I know I've tried some club barrel beers that were pretty darn good. Using actual pieces from a Russian River barrel is just a sales gimmick...Vinnie is no bozo...he wouldn't be retiring the barrels if he didn't want to use them...

So don't be fooled by the godly gimmick of "actual brewery barrel shards"
 
A buddy and I brewed 2 batches this week and will be racking to secondary in a few days. I've got a question about pitching the Brett. Since Brett needs oxygen to reproduce, should I aerate in the secondary prior to pitching, or is adding oxygen at this stage going to introduce off-flavors like it would in other beers that aren't getting fresh yeast in secondary? Seems like no oxygen isn't going to let the Brett reproduce (bad), but I suppose it's possible to add too much (also bad)? Also, thoughts on making a Brett starter before pitching to secondary?

Brett doesn't need O2. Stressing the yeast (anaerobic reproduction) is what creates the traditional Brett flavors.

If you add Oxygen, the Brett will produce fruity flavors instead, and as you have pointed out, will probably stale the beer.
 
Thanks for the responses guys! Sounds like I'll be letting the primary finish out (at 1.030 right now and still bubbling away) and treat the secondary like any other beer and be careful not to splash. Pretty excited for this one!
 
Hi everyone,
Any thoughts on doing the primary with Wyeast 3789-PC Trappist Blend.
They describe it as "Profile: A unique blend of Belgian Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces for emulating Trappist style beer from the Florenville region in Belgium. Phenolics, mild fruitiness and complex spicy notes develop with increased fermentation temperatures. Subdued but classic Brett character."

I've used it in the past for an Orval clone with great success. I'm thinking about doing the primary with it, using Brett. L when I add the currants, then Roeselare after that as suggested. Any reasons not to use the Sac/Brett B. blend for Primary?
 
Only reason I wouldn't suggest that strain is because it's not what Vinnie uses. That being said - that strain sounds like it could be a pretty good one, and might make your clone recipe a little more unique in what could be a very good way. In the end it's going to be completely up to you. You could always brew two batches, or split the batch and see if there's a difference!?

Cheers!
 
I guess I have to decided if I'm stressed about trying to get close to what RR makes. I know that isn't happening even if I follow the instructions to a T. Too many variables in a sour for that. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Yeah - in the end what is included in the kit is what Vinnie uses to make his Consecration. He also uses used 60 gallon barrels in an environment that he's been brewing in for years in a particular humidity and temperature. He blends, brews on a much larger system...the list goes on and on. Even different batches of Consecration vary in flavor, aroma, and sour levels (earlier batches being much more sour, as the bugs have had a longer time to eat the sugars). This kit will produce an amazing sour beer very similar to Consecration, but will not produce an identical product, so thank you for recognizing this!

Cheers!
 
Hi everyone,
Any thoughts on doing the primary with Wyeast 3789-PC Trappist Blend.
They describe it as "Profile: A unique blend of Belgian Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces for emulating Trappist style beer from the Florenville region in Belgium. Phenolics, mild fruitiness and complex spicy notes develop with increased fermentation temperatures. Subdued but classic Brett character."

I've used it in the past for an Orval clone with great success. I'm thinking about doing the primary with it, using Brett. L when I add the currants, then Roeselare after that as suggested. Any reasons not to use the Sac/Brett B. blend for Primary?

This does, in fact, make an EXCELLENT Orval-type beer. But if you're pairing it with Roeselare, I think you'll be just fine for this type of beer.
 
Any suggestions, pros/cons on how long to boil the malt for this one? Might make a difference in the final carmelization/color.

For the pliny clone, the instructions mentioned 90min boil starting with hops, 60 min with malts, saving the 1lb corn sugar for 10min. However, with this kit there are no specifications/suggestions.
 
fildogg said:
Any suggestions, pros/cons on how long to boil the malt for this one? Might make a difference in the final carmelization/color.

For the pliny clone, the instructions mentioned 90min boil starting with hops, 60 min with malts, saving the 1lb corn sugar for 10min. However, with this kit there are no specifications/suggestions.

It don't think you get carmelization from a full boil, which I would guess you are doing if you are trying to make such an advanced style.

The first hop addition is @ 90min. I'd boil 10 or 15 mins more then that before adding those hops.
 
dirtybear7 said:
It don't think you get carmelization from a full boil, which I would guess you are doing if you are trying to make such an advanced style.

The first hop addition is @ 90min. I'd boil 10 or 15 mins more then that before adding those hops.

*I don't think...
 
brewed this on july 8, hit 1.075

racked it to a keg today for coldcrash and the FG was 1.008. oops! will that be enough for the bugs or should i adjust this once they take hold?
 
Just ordered one, hopefully will be brewing it this weekend. Has anyone tried pitching a bottle of consecration into it? I saw it suggested, just wondering if anyone tried it, if so... when did you pitch it and how did it turn out?

I get to give the kit to my wife for her birthday and hopefully the completed beer for Christmas, double win!
 
Just a head's up for anyone pitching dregs/bottles - Vinnie uses a wine yeast to carbonate/bottle condition. You will be picking up some of the bugs that are in that bottle of Consecration, but will probably also be getting some wine yeast as well. Not that this is a bad thing, but just something to keep in mind.

Cheers!
 
From an email from Vinnie to me:

"We actually [use] Zante currants. It is probably the barrels that is giving the rich flavor."

But, if you are providing the currants, they are probably zante anyway. Black currants are VERY hard to source in this country due to an unfortunate ban a long time ago. They are not banned any longer, so if anyone is looking for them www.currantc.com is one of the few places.

has anyone used black currants? i'd love to know the results.

i pitched about 25mL of roeselaire (the rest went into a kriek) and two weeks later there is a scattered formation that looks like a white-specked oil slick. give it a few months to root before pitching any currants?
 
I'm getting a kit soon. I also scored some RR oak from Matt at NHC.
Anyone's thoughts on throwing the oak into a small starter for a month or two, and then pitching the entire thing into the carboy? At least that would answer the question on whether the bugs are living if gravity goes down and it tastes ok.
 
I brewed this kit a few weeks ago, and I just racked to secondary on the currants and bugs. It looks pretty cool, so I thought I would share some pics.

Here is the first night. About 5 hours after racking. A lot of currants floated to the top:
consecration_clone_day1.jpg



This is 2 days later. Lots of foam, and it looks like the majority of currants have floated to the top:
consecration_clone_day2.jpg
 
what kind of weight are you looking at with the currants?
Looks way cool by the way
 
The kit came with 2lbs of currants.

The renewed fermentation from the currants and the Wyeast Roeselare yeast I added is pretty vigorous for a beer that had already fermented for 2 weeks in the primary. I am using a 5gallon carboy for a 5gallon batch, and I cautiously left behind a little less than half a gallon. After seeing the level of krausen, I think I made the right call.
 
I'm brewing up a MoreBeer Consecration kit today. All the info shared on this thread is great. I'll post results... next year.
 
Just ordered this kit. I think I might do something like add the oak during primary, just to let the bugs that have survived in the chunks get some sort of hold. Maybe half the oak in primary and then the other half in secondary with the fruit...
 
I can't give you any final results, but I brewed the all-grain kit a week ago, hit the projected OG spot on at 1.073, everything worked out as expected. With a good sized Abbey Ale II starter I was at 1.010 in three days @ 72° in the fermenter. Overnight I made another starter with 1 Qt of my pre-canned starter wort, the dried currants, and a pack of Roeselare. After about 12 hours when that was going strong I racked the ale over onto the currant starter mix. I'm at 8 days today at about 74°F, and the activity is slowing. I couldn't help but draw off a sample and honestly this is a good beer already. I didn't pull enough off to take a gravity reading, but it's pretty dry right now, and already has a mild, funky lactic twang.

This is the first time I've used Wyeast's Roeselare, but I really like the flavor profiles so far. I just hope I'm patient enough to allow it to fully develop. I think this is a kit I'll have to brew again after the first of the year. Although we can't get the real thing here, this may be the beer that I can tell my wife I'm saving money on by brewing my own!
 
FINALLY doing my kit today (got it un-milled so i could take my time...).

I was thinking of, after sparging the consecration wort, tossing in another few lbs of 2-row and doing a second running.

Any suggestions as to style and/or recipe? I'm thinking maybe some sort of dubbel with some more WLP530?

Edit: Just realized that I also have some washed 2112 and a packet or two of notty laying around...

I assume it's too late for your brew day, but I did a second running. Got thinking about it during the process, and remembered I had some extra DME from making starter wort. Collected about 4 gallons from the spent grains, added just short of 3 lbs Briess DME, and boiled 1/2 oz of Kent Goldings I had for 60 minutes. I had a spare pack of Roeselare, and after 8 days it's settled down nicely. OG ended up at 1.057. Tried it yesterday to see what I had. It smells much more sour than what it is at thsi point, and it has a mild brett funk, and quite dry without measuring. I'm going to rack it onto a couple lbs of fruit, I was thinking peaches, and hide it away for a few months. Should be good next spring!
 
I'm finally going to get around to brewing this on Sunday (it was too hot to brew over the summer), and I have a WLP530 starter going on the stir plate right now. Question for those of you who know more about sour beers than I (which is, to say, pretty much each of you)...

The suggested procedure is to rack to secondary after Saccharomyces gets the gravity down to 1.016-ish and then pitch the Brett and add currants in secondary. Is there any reason not to simply add the currants and Brett to the primary once the Saccharomyces has taken it to 1.016-ish, or is it important to leave the bulk of the primary yeast behind before adding Brett? I'd like to avoid a transfer if possible.

If it matters, I most definitely intend to rack to another vessel when it's time to add the oak and bacteria.
 
I'm finally going to get around to brewing this on Sunday (it was too hot to brew over the summer), and I have a WLP530 starter going on the stir plate right now. Question for those of you who know more about sour beers than I (which is, to say, pretty much each of you)...

The suggested procedure is to rack to secondary after Saccharomyces gets the gravity down to 1.016-ish and then pitch the Brett and add currants in secondary. Is there any reason not to simply add the currants and Brett to the primary once the Saccharomyces has taken it to 1.016-ish, or is it important to leave the bulk of the primary yeast behind before adding Brett? I'd like to avoid a transfer if possible.

If it matters, I most definitely intend to rack to another vessel when it's time to add the oak and bacteria.

For what its worth I didn't brew the kit but brewed a clone with an almost identical grain bill and hop schedule. When I did it I primaried with the abbey yeast and then when the beer hit 1.016 I cold crashed it for 72 hours. I then racked to secondary and added 8 oz starters of both brett L and Brett B as well as my 1 ounce of oak chips that had been soaking in 12 ounces of Cab for a month (the cab went in too). I did this on the logic that russian river cold crashes and then centrifuges consecration to get all the Sacch out of the beer, and then adds in the brett giving it a couple of weeks to get started before they add the bacteria.
I didn't particularly want to use campden tabs on my beer so I figured cold crashing, racking to a secondary and then adding a load of health, hungry new brett would lead to a similar state of affairs. I also let the beer sit, with the brett only, in secondary for almost a month before I added pure cultures of Lacto, Pedio, and 3 pounds of Currants. On last tasting it was coming along nicely. (its about 4 months old)
 

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