Unveiling my brewery & garage build

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Thanks, Lehr. I just checked out your rig (and other fabrication work) - inspirational!!

Thanks ... here is a picture of my trellis in the spring before it is covered over the top with hops, it should provide great shade in the summer for you and hops to use in the fall !
Pat
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A little about the stand. It's a pretty standard Brutus inspired design, that will do direct fired RIMS in the long run. I'm upgrading from an 11 gallon BIAB setup, so I've made the conscious decision to skip the automation for now and just control the burners manually. I'd like to force myself to focus on the basics of brewing on this setup before distracting myself with the automation portion, or using it as a crutch. That being said, it has been designed entirely with automation in mind, and I expect to add it within the first year. There are very few parts on this stand today that will be redundant when automation is added, I think I'll only be about about $8 worth of gas piping. Speaking of that piping, the gas manifold is simply 1/2" ID black iron pipe with brass gas rated ball valves.

You may note that I added some additional 1" square tube supports on the sides of each burner area. These were a late design addition and are not reflected on the drawings. This is because I designed the stand to be large enough for a potential future upgrade to a 1bbl batch size, using Stout tanks kettles. This decision made using keggles a little bit sketchy (there was a tip factor of they were not positioned correctly), so we added the extra supports to accomodate any size of kettle. I fully recognize that this upgrade may never happen, but it's nice knowing that I have the option to go bigger just by switching my kettles at any point (ok, I'd probably need to upgrade my gas manifold pipe size and add bigger burners too.)

Here are the sketchup drawings. If anyone likes the design and would like the original sketchup file, just ask. I'd be happy to send it along to you. For me, this is the perfect size for both kettle options. At 2" square tubing it is over built for the 15 gallon kegs, but again it is designed 3x 40 gallon kettles (actually 2x 40 and 1x 45). I'd have to check my notes for the gauge steel we used, but the long horizontal beams are a thicker gauge and the uprights and cross bars are thinner to save cost and weight. Bottom line, we put a lot of thought into the potential max load requirements and then built accordingly. And yes, it's overbuilt. ;)

Stand dimensions
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Stand with keggle and stout tank mockup
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Re-posting the 'done' image from before for those not scrolling the thread
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I have a few iPhone pictures of the stand build process I can share if there is any interest.
 
The 10 tip natural gas jet burners are designed to be supported by a 3/8" feeder pipe, so I just have a 1/2" to 3/8" reducing elbow at the top of each 'burner stand'.
Some detail on the gas manifold & burners
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For the pilots I just used 1/4" copper tubing and compression fittings.The 'pilot burner' is the DIY variety that many others have used here, just a 1/8" brass plug with a couple of small holes drilled in it. Since I brew indoors with good ventilation above, wind isn't a big factor. These pilots will blow out if you have too much of a breeze, if you brew outdoors or with a strong cross breeze, I definitely suggest a proper pilot burner. Part of the reason I chose to go with 1/4" copper tubing is so that I can easily swap the compression fittings and install this burner if pilot reliability becomes an issue.

(since this was taken I've added a non gas rated needle valve above the ball valve, for more precise control. This way I can just turn the ball valve for 'on and off' and use the needle valve to adjust the flame.
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DIY pilot parts list, from the top down:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_34797-104-A-710_0__?productId=3435856
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=22877-104-A-15&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3371498&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=23050-76063-6363804755406&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3132683&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=25622-104-A-40&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3371698&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
http://www.lowes.com/pd_34949-104-A-776_0__?productId=3435896&Ntt=3%2F8+1%2F8+brass&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3D3%252F8%2B1%252F8%2Bbrass&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23152-33599-M88C+3/8_0__?Ntt=3%2F8%22+gas+ball+valve&UserSearch=3%2F8%22+gas+ball+valve&productId=3353924&rpp=16

And I cant find the part number on their site, but I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducing tee fitting at the bottom of each pilot burner, instead of the standard 1/2" tee. I could have just as easily used a 1/2" ball valve and then a 1/2 to 1/8 reducer bushing instead, but this option saved a couple of bucks on each pilot. I also like that there is a visual size difference in the valve for the burner and it's pilot.
 
Jealous and Inspired do not even BEGIN to describe....

I.... but look... is that?...

Yeah, I thought I was at least a somewhat seasoned brewer, but this shows me just how far this hobby can go! My hats off to you good sir!
 
What kind of fitting did you use at the top of the pilot for the flame?
I was also wondering how you secured the black pipe to the stand? Kinda looks like its just floating there.
 
This is great! What a setup!

Heileman brews Stag Beer...the *ahem* tastiest *cough* lager around!

Anyway, Stag used to be brewed in Belleville Illinois (just across the river from St Louis). Legend has it that I'm related to the old German fellow who started one of Belleville's first breweries, that after changing ownership and expanding, became the Stag Brewery. Rumor also has it that he "brought over the recipe that became Stag." Of course I won't knock his long-gone recipe, because we all know what 150 years has done to American lager. When Stag closed, Heileman got production rolling up in WI.

Anyway, that keggle has, at one time, delivered hundreds of gallons of the stuff. It's still hugely popular cheap beer in this area.
 
Awesome, thanks jwitt for the background. Of the three kegs I got, the G. Heileman was the only one I didn't know the possible background on at first. I did some research and determined that the company was part of a consolidation towards the end of it's life, that also included a couple of big Northwest names, Rainier and Olympia. Both of these big boys of the northwest macro brew scene were bought out in the 80s/90s and consolidated. The brands are both still available in the northwest and retain some of their once huge cult following, but they are brewed in California.

From Wiki pedia about Rainier Brewing Co:
In 1977 the brewery was sold to G. Heileman Brewing Company, and passed through several more hands before finally winding up owned by Pabst, which closed it in 1999. The Rainier brand was sold to General Brewing Company, which moved production to the Olympia brewery in nearby Tumwater, Washington. The Olympia Brewing Company closed in 2003. Rainier Beer is now brewed under contract in Irwindale, California.

So my best guess is the last thing this keg contained, was a batch of Rainier beer. Even though it's not a locally made beer, it's still pretty popular in these parts. I'll admit I've sucked down a few cans of 'vitamin R' while playing softball or watching football. Of course, the beer I will make in this kettle will be much, much better.

Some nostalgia for any northwesterners. This commercial came out in the late 70s before I was born, but was so well known and liked in the area, it was occasionally used even into the 90s.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iz-WuLQz_ns"][YOUTUBE]iz-WuLQz_ns[/YOUTUBE][/ame]
 
look'n great! I can see a happy brewing future, rock'n some killer lunch on your outdoor kitchen while making a tasty brew!:fro:
 
Wow, like many others said, jealousy doesn't begin to describe the feeling that I feel right now. I'm only a 22 year old brewer and really hope to have something like this in my distant future. Great job!

Another couple things I was curious about, why didn't you use green board for the dry wall around the brewstand/sink? I guess it may be overkill since you have that metal sheet on the back, but I'd imagine things could get ugly if that did wet behind there.

Another thing, what are you using for dispensing? I'm hoping you've got one killer keezer in your future as well. :mug:
 
Wow. I didn't know that Heileman extended its reach so far. I had a can of local Chicago schwill the last time I was up there, brewed by Heileman. They were big players in picking up regional brands back a couple decades ago. I must say that I can tell quality control isn't 100% - I've had some actually really crisp and refreshing Stag, and some that I really had to choke down (I can't take malty-sweet light beer!) My dad said modern Stag is a shadow of its former self, for what it's worth (I can't imagine it was exactly great back in the day).

After looking at your pictures, then seeing the commercial, I once again feel the need to head to the NW. A buddy is a winemaker and did some WOOFing at a winery in the Williamette. He's convinced he will someday relocate us all to WA/OR. Since I just got a job at the LHBS here (gonna have to get the shop on here as a sponsor!) I don't think I'll move for a while yet, but I do love forests, mountains, fly fishing, and cloudy weather with all my heart. Maybe in a few years once he finds a vineyard of his own up there :) (He just got back from NZ and checked on his demijohns of reserve, started malolactic, and added some raisins he made last season- I can't wait for a bottle of that stuff!)
 
Another couple things I was curious about, why didn't you use green board for the dry wall around the brewstand/sink? I guess it may be overkill since you have that metal sheet on the back, but I'd imagine things could get ugly if that did wet behind there.

Another thing, what are you using for dispensing? I'm hoping you've got one killer keezer in your future as well. :mug:

Good question. We didn't use the green board because this wall (behind the stand) is 3ft from a property line and requires "Type X" fire resistant drywall to satisfy code. We could have used it around the sink, and that would have been a good idea. I just didn't think of it. I'll be adding some tile or other moisture proof backing on the wall/window sill there.
 
Oh, and my current dispensing setup is a 2 tap kegerator (Frigidaire mini fridge conversion) in the basement. This is going to get built into a bar in our rec room and will serve the house. One of the motivations for building the garage was to empty out my 'shop room' down stairs in the house to turn it into a bar/tv room. I'll also be building 4 tap keezer in the garage this fall/winter, after the rest of the project is wrapped up. The plan (we'll see if I follow through on this part) is to have 3 taps indoors, and one tap through the wall, hiding in an insulated 'birdhouse' that will be just behind the outdoor kitchen area.
 
No progress on the building or stand these last couple of days. Life.

I am happy to report that the first few beers brewed in the brewhouse (though not on the final brew setup, see above) are through the pipeline and very, very tasty. So far the garage has hosted a session of EdWort's Haus Pale Ale, Moose Drool Clone (my personal favorite batch ever), Bohemian Pilsner, and a Yooper's DFH 60 Minute IPA clone.

Pale ale vigorously fermenting in the chamber after the Moose Drool made way for it. The ambient temp in the basement is just about right for it to continue its fermentation.
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Moose Drool in the glass - I even had the right glass for it. Seriously tasty stuff, especially after a long day of drywalling.
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I'm planning for the first batch using the full capabilities of the stand this Sunday. I'm a little behind timing wise, but going for my own pumpkin ale recipe.
 
What kind of fitting did you use at the top of the pilot for the flame?
I was also wondering how you secured the black pipe to the stand? Kinda looks like its just floating there.

Sorry, I missed your second question before. Your observation is astute, the manifold is just sitting there right now. I have some zinc plated 3/4" one hole conduit straps that I've dry fitted on there that work really well, but I haven't installed them yet because a local electrical supply store carries them in stainless steel.
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Looks great....Please tell me you are going to finish/paint the drywall!!!!

What you don't like the raw drywall look? Heh, Definitely. I haven't been showing it off in here, but the other side of the garage (the shop side) is still without insulation and drywall as I had been dragging my feet about finishing some wiring over there.. exactly where do I want that welder, etc. I find that I go back and fourth between putting energy into the building, and energy into the brewing stuff and this last week or so it's been all about the stand.

I plan to get the rest of the insulating and drywall done next week, at which point we'll do another round of tape & mud all around and prep for painting. Oh great, that means I need to pickout another set of colors. :drunk:
 
You're my hero! I thought my dream of one day having a brewstand was lofty, now I have something to really shoot for. Keep up the good work and keep us posted!
 
That's going to be a beautiful finished space. I grew up in Mukilteo, WA and would love to move back around there and build something like this. Congrats!
 
Minor updates over the weekend, I only had part of one day to get any work done. Getting motivated to get the 'real' work done and out of the way now, so I spent the better part of Sunday putting in insulation in the unfinished half of the building.

I made quite a bit more progress after this was taken. I just need a few more batts and I'll be ready for drywall.
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And a little progress on the brewing setup. The MLT is cut, and 'polished'. I did a silly thing and used a course grit flapper wheel on my angle grinder to remove the paint and labels from the keg, before polishing via this method. This made it really tough to get a good polish on the keg, and left some interesting texture to the metal. I'll definitely be staying away from the flapper wheel next time. Oh well, it still looks better than it did.
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Incidentally, I wanted to make a recommendation for the 'high lift' garage door design I choose here to anyone considering building a garage or replacing their door. With my ridge pole design, I have ~11ft of clearance at the outer edges of the door (15' in the middle), so I went with a door design that rolls up 3 ft before making the turn and rolling back horizontally. This means I have over 10' of clearance between the floor and the tracks, and the door when it is open. The opener is 'jack shaft' variety that sits on the wall next to the door, rather than overhead as well. You can barely see it at the top left in the photo above (small black box, above the white light fixture).

This design costs a bit more (about $75 more for the track, and $200 more for the motor) than a standard garage door would, but it is absolutely worth it in my opinion if you have the ceiling height to work with.
 
Very nice work! I have been wanting to add a separate building in the back of my property so I could have a workshop and a brewery someday for when I retire. Now I am so inspired to get moving on planning it out further and get serious about building it. Thanks for posting, keep the pics coming.

Your a lucky man! :mug:

John
 
Great build man,,, JonW's work helped me out alot as well. The stand is perfect for my keggle setup
 
Amazing post

This is what imagine when i think of the OP and his build lol, so badass. I hope some day to have a plot of land big enough to do something like this...right now your little shed is probably half or more of my entire back yard...
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Thanks, all.

Fuzze, I can assure you that is not what life feels like, especially after spending each evening after work up on a ladder with drywall and insulation dust covering my body. Oh, and then having the contractor stopping by asking for yet another check. ;)

Still, I do feel pretty fortunate to be able to build something like this. It's a lot of hard work, but a really rewarding process.

Speaking of progress, here is the product of last night's work. I've got the guys coming over on the weekend to help me finish the drywall.
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Didnt know if u already mentioned or not. How do u like the pex tubing for plumbing. My brother and i just did all the homeruns at his house. And a friend whos a plumber hates it. But dont really see how. I love how this garage is coming out. Kinda what im thinking for my brewery upgrade!!!
 
dcarroll, I have to say I am a fan of PEX. The ease of installation and flexibility that it allows is outstanding. Just in this simple building it probably saved 8 hours of work over using copper pipe, not to mention the expense. The downside is that you need a special tool to make the fittings, which we had to rent for a few bucks a day. Even with the added hassle of buying or renting the tool, it was a big savings.
 
Finally, insulation is DONE. This half of the building will be much easier to drywall than the brewery section, since there are fewer outlets, and no plumbing to work around.
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Too many photos of boring insulation these past couple of days, so here is some good stuff I worked on last night.

Drilling the new MLT (existing BK is on the right)
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Running PBW through the new MLT to clean after drilling
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Detail on the shiny stainless steel underside of the hood. I still can't believe my luck to find this thing.
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The brewery, ready for action! I'm just waiting for the drywall to be finished on the other side of the building before I'll allow myself to brew. It should be done by Saturday afternoon.
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Also addressing a previous question, the gas manifold is now fully secured with those 1 hole conduit straps. They work great. You can find them in the electrical (not plumbing) section of your box store.
 
A question for anyone reading that might have input: I'm fairly confident that the stainless steel backing (on the wall) will provide sufficient heat shielding to protect the wall, but I'm cautious about taking this for granted. The steel on the wall gets quite hot when the burners are running flat out. I could slide the stand out from the wall a bit, but then I'd loose the effectiveness of my hood. In my experience the reflective characteristics of the steel will protect the wall from most of the radiant heat, but there is still quite a bit of heat transfered via its conductive qualities. I'm a little concerned about what's going in inside the wall. I'm also struggling to figure out how to test it.. I've thought about going outside the building an drilling a small hole in the wall to insert a thermometer.

The contractor I've been working with doesn't think it'll be a problem at all. Maybe I'm just over-thinking it.

Thoughts?
 
Good point. Some ceramic spacers, backerboard and then the stainless sheeting is probably the way to go. I do have "X type" drywall on the wall behind the stainless, but without an air gap there isn't much I can do to prevent the conduction of heat to the wood studs.

Hmm... I really don't want to redo that wall :(
 
Just get some thin backerboard (the concrete stuff for tile work) screw that on then lay your stainless over that. Your current set-up may be fine, but why risk it. :mug:
 
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