BIAB Brewing (with pics)

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yep.. I use just a Voile bag. my largest beer so far had a 12.5lb grain bill, add in another 8lbs for absorption and that's 20.5lbs.. bag still holding up great. I recently got a keggle and will be doing BIAB on it as well. my new bag will be made to fit the keggle and I won't be using a metal basket. As long as the bag is sewn together the right way it'll hold.
 
Hmm, just re-read the OP and it answered my question... But i got another

I'm getting ready for my first AG and was wondering if the mash out temperature can vary from recipe to recipe?

(btw is your name a seinfeld reference? my last dog was named Soda =0)
 
Great write up with pictures. I just recently stepped up from extract to a few BIAB batches and I am still trying to 'tune' things.

Would be nice in your original post if you gave some credit to the Aussies who pretty much developed this process. There is a lot of good info on their web site etc. Here is another good post on the topic.

I just use a bag made form 1yard of voile material from Joanne's fabric, about $5. I don't use the turkey basket or any type of pulley system. It is very manageable to pull out a pretty full grain bag and hold it for about a minute to let it drain. Then I put it in a bucket and lift the bag up and wrap its draw-string around a doorknob to let it drain some more. I may squeeze it a bit on the side of the bucket. An upside down vegetable steamer makes a pretty good false bottom to keep your bag safe from the heat.

One step that I think could be clarified in your original post is the initial water volume. Your recipe called for a 7.5gal boil. Is this because you plan on boiling off 2 gal in an hour to get to your batch size of 5.5? Or is this accounting for grain water absorption? I have been following this for determining my initial full volume. Batch volume + evaporation + (lbs of grain X .06 grain absorption).

I have a 10gal kettle and did a 1.064OG IPA last night. It was probably pushing my limits. I needed 7.9gal of water, and then add 14lbs of grain. I had about 1.5" until I would overflow. It made doughing in a little slow. I suppose I could start with less water and then sparge to get to my correct volume??? But that requires more equipment ;>) Pulling this bag out was a bit more messy, heavier than my previous batches but was still do-able. A basket and a pully would have been nice. ;>)

Again, great post!!!
 
As long as the bag is sewn together the right way it'll hold.

I sewed the first bag myself - I make everything I can, if I can and my sewing isn't too shabby. I gave it a circular bottom instead of a straight seam (making a cylinder instead of an envelope) thinking that the extra length of seam at the bottom would put less stress per inch on that seam. Is this the kind of thing you're talking about, or is there an 'accepted' design?

I'm really looking forward to trying this technique. My element and its junction box are done, the control panel just needs a coat of paint and final assembly, and I need to get a welder to install the keggle fittings. I plan to post pics in a build thread this weekend.
 
I sewed the first bag myself - I make everything I can, if I can and my sewing isn't too shabby. I gave it a circular bottom instead of a straight seam (making a cylinder instead of an envelope) thinking that the extra length of seam at the bottom would put less stress per inch on that seam. Is this the kind of thing you're talking about, or is there an 'accepted' design?

I'm really looking forward to trying this technique. My element and its junction box are done, the control panel just needs a coat of paint and final assembly, and I need to get a welder to install the keggle fittings. I plan to post pics in a build thread this weekend.

mine is also a cylinder, but the pillow case design works great too. another design is a pillow case that tapers slightly to almost a cone shape (not as pointed as a cone but similar). what I was referring to was, as long as the seams are sewn together well, then it'll hold. I can sew but decided to let an expert (SWMBO) who has 30+ years experience do the work.

Let me know what the build pics are up. I've been seriously thinking about a Electric BIAB setup.
 
I started with a pillow case design and wort just poured from both corners and made a mess. The cylinder works way better for me. Also I've had up to 24lbs of grain plus water absorbtion in mine. Just takes two people to pick it up!

BTW Bag only for me too.
 
I'm getting ready for my first all-grain BIAB and wonder if anyone is JUST using a mesh (voile) bag and not the added strength of a metal basket. Am I asking for trouble in trusting a cloth bag to hold all that wet grain? Also, what's the average batch size folks brew when using this method and a keggle?

The voile I use is just a large section of the fabric that I just bunch up at the top to lift out, so I don't have any seams to worry about. My last batch was a 10 gal batch of Centennial Blonde that was about 16 lbs or so of grain and it had no problems.
 
I use paint straining bags.

I got a package of two 5 gallon bags for only a few dollars at my local hardware store. I take the elastic over the entire top of the pot for the mash. When I boil I put the hops in the 2nd bag and tie it to one of the pot handle so it still floats freely and I can moniter the boil.

I only do 2.5 gal batches but I believe the bags are strong enough to hold a 5 gal batch grainbill. If not just double the bags, it will still allow for more water to flow through than the grain bag I got at my LBS

BIAB is great and is the only reason I can enjoy the wonders of AG brewing in my college housing situation. Good luck!
 
I'm getting ready for my first all-grain BIAB and wonder if anyone is JUST using a mesh (voile) bag and not the added strength of a metal basket. Am I asking for trouble in trusting a cloth bag to hold all that wet grain? Also, what's the average batch size folks brew when using this method and a keggle?

Last week we brewed an 8 gallon batch of a robust IPA in a 17 gallon pot with 22lbs of grain - the bag I sewed together from voile held up fine. The voile is strong, your stitching will be the weak point.
 
hey Seven, do you cover the kettle during the 10 minute mash out step?

I don't cover the kettle when doing the mash out. I just bring the temp. of the mash to 170, cut the heat, then let it sit for 10-mins while I prepare to lift the grains out.
 
Seven,
What is the biggest beer you have done with your system? I know you mentioned you could squeeze in some 20lbs of grain and 8+ gallons of water. What is the highest OG you have attempted with your 10g kettle?
 
I just did my first biab last weekend and it went pretty smooth, but still looking to find my "voice" for biab
 
Thanks Seven! Another dumb question, but Do I have to take the gravity reading before boiling again to figure out the efficiency? or Can i take it after it's put in the fermenter before adding the yeast?

also is your name a reference to seinfeld? =0
 
Seven,
What is the biggest beer you have done with your system? I know you mentioned you could squeeze in some 20lbs of grain and 8+ gallons of water. What is the highest OG you have attempted with your 10g kettle?

I successfully brewed a Hopslam clone (recipe here) that required 21.5 pounds of grain and 8.5 gallons of water in the kettle. The mash was about 1-inch from the top of the kettle when mashing. This would be the maximum for this particular equipment setup.

Note: I added an extra pound of base malt over what the recipe called for to make up for lower efficiency that is typical with no-sparge BIAB. Total grain used was 21.5 pounds.

This is probably the best beer I've made to date. I highly recommend this recipe to anyone who likes Bell's Hopslam.
 
Do I have to take the gravity reading before boiling again to figure out the efficiency? or Can i take it after it's put in the fermenter before adding the yeast?

That's what I do. I'm assuming that it needs to be done this way since various calculators ask for the pre-boil OG when calculating brew house efficiency. But I wouldn't be surprised at all if there's more than one way to do it. It's a good question.
 
Alton Brown has a pulley setup that may work for those of us who can't or don't want to permanently attach pulleys to ceilings. In season 10, he did an episode called "Fry Turkey Fry" and built a rig off of his aluminum (I think) ladder that would accept a pulley system along with a cleat to lock the grain bag in place above the brew kettle. It seems to work well and is adjustable in position so you can make sure you don't get any swing or motion when lifting it out of the brew pot. I'd trust the set up to hold at least 40 lbs when using a sst bucket like Seven did, if your mounting is secure enough, with some decent sized bolts.

I'm going to try this method out when I do my first BIAB, but I need a fermy chamber built before this so it'll probably be a few months.

Great advice though! :mug:

A link to that episode would be helpful instead of searching.
 
That turkey derrick is awesome! I like the flashy light on the top too. I may need to get one of those for my brew cave.
 
Nice documentation on your process - well done! After years of brewing all-grain on a homemade 3-tier, propane-fired rig (which I recently sold) I'm building an all-electric BIAB setup and can't wait to put it to use!
 
Kudos to the pics. I am a newer brewer and I do BIAB and I make much better beers.

I think I need one of those blichmann pots too though!!
 
Very nice Seven!

i've finaly finished setting up my kegging system, and I'm looking to make the leap to AG..

i really like your method, i'm sure it will have a good influence on the way i get myself setup.

Thanks.
 
How is the dip tube coming off your valve from the inside of the kettle affected by 20 pounds of grain in a steel turkey fryer pot laying on top of it? Im definitely inspired to make a kettle out of a keg and start brewing this way, but am trying to think of away around this problem.
 
How is the dip tube coming off your valve from the inside of the kettle affected by 20 pounds of grain in a steel turkey fryer pot laying on top of it? Im definitely inspired to make a kettle out of a keg and start brewing this way, but am trying to think of away around this problem.

So far I haven't had any problem with the basket resting on the dip tube. I'm sure the water volume does add some buoyancy to the grain so it's not the full weight of the grains resting on the dip tube.

Some other ideas to better support the grain basket:

  • Add a wire rack or something else to the bottom of the kettle to support the basket
  • Modify the basket by adding some legs or supports so it rests on the bottom of the kettle

This is a good question you've asked... be sure to let us know what you decide to do!
 
How is the dip tube coming off your valve from the inside of the kettle affected by 20 pounds of grain in a steel turkey fryer pot laying on top of it? Im definitely inspired to make a kettle out of a keg and start brewing this way, but am trying to think of away around this problem.
I haven't finished collecting and assembling for my keggle BIAB setup yet, but I plan to make a "shelf" out of this to cover the heating element, dip tube, etc. It will serve double duty to keep the weight of grain off weaker components, and also keep the bag from direct contact with the element to prevent melting. I just haven't decided if I'm going to cut and bend the sheet into an inverted U so that it acts as a 3-sided cage, or just cut it in a circle and use SS bolts as feet to raise it to the correct height (which would look like a tall, poorly fitting false bottom).
 
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I haven't finished collecting and assembling for my keggle BIAB setup yet, but I plan to make a "shelf" out of this to cover the heating element, dip tube, etc. It will serve double duty to keep the weight of grain off weaker components, and also keep the bag from direct contact with the element to prevent melting. I just haven't decided if I'm going to cut and bend the sheet into an inverted U so that it acts as a 3-sided cage, or just cut it in a circle and use SS bolts as feet to raise it to the correct height (which would look like a tall, poorly fitting false bottom).

I made a "cage" out of that same material but it was a PITA at times and the bag would get caught on it. I dithched it all together and my bag rest right on top of my 5500w ULWD element no problems with scorching the grain or burning the bag. The element easily supports the weight.
 
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Well, I did my first BIAB (and AG actually) last saturday.

Didn't have the proper equipment to take a gravity reading pre-boil so don't have much to say -

except for I ended up with 6 gallons after my 60 minute boil. (so my hops and irish moss and all that ended up staying in about 30 minutes longer till flame off)



---
but I was wondering if anyone does BIAB and sparges?
 
Some other ideas to better support the grain basket:

  • Add a wire rack or something else to the bottom of the kettle to support the basket
  • Modify the basket by adding some legs or supports so it rests on the bottom of the kettle

This is a good question you've asked... be sure to let us know what you decide to do![/QUOTE]

I like the idea of putting legs on the basket the best, I think I'll give that method a try once I get all the pieces together! Thanks!
 
---
but I was wondering if anyone does BIAB and sparges?
i do BIAB and sparge. i just heat 2 gallons of water in a second pot, and after the mash is done, i pull the bag out and dunk it in the 2 gallons. Stir, wait 10 minutes, then dump those contents into the main kettle.

i think it's pretty common to do this.
 
thanks Jag!

I know it depends on the grain bill, but around how much water do you start with when you do sparge as well?

I start with about 5.5 gallons. Come to think of it, my sparge is actually 2.5 gallons b/c i lose 1 gal to grain and i shoot to end up with 7 gallons preboil.
 
Seven,

quick question, what are the real dimensions of that 44-quart Bayou Classic model B144 stainless steel perforated basket that you use? I've been looking around on the net and I keep finding 2 different measurements for the same basket. Is it 13.5" deep by 11" wide? If so that would be perfect for my kettle, thanks
 
Seven,

quick question, what are the real dimensions of that 44-quart Bayou Classic model B144 stainless steel perforated basket that you use? I've been looking around on the net and I keep finding 2 different measurements for the same basket. Is it 13.5" deep by 11" wide? If so that would be perfect for my kettle, thanks

My basket is 13.5" wide by 12.75" height.
 
Thanks a ton for the quick response seven! you just saved me a headache from having to return a useless item! cheers!
:mug:
 
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