Rims toolbox question

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snail

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I'm in the process of making a toolbox with a pump in it and eventually will make a RIMS tube to attach to it. I will have a PID, SSR, 1500 watt element, and pump in the toolbox when complete. I'll be using 120 for my power. What gauge extension cord do I need to power the toolbox so I don't burn anything up? Also, do I need certain gauge wire to wire the components up? I'm assuming I'd need a different gauge between the SSR and element.
 
I'm in the process of making a toolbox with a pump in it and eventually will make a RIMS tube to attach to it. I will have a PID, SSR, 1500 watt element, and pump in the toolbox when complete. I'll be using 120 for my power. What gauge extension cord do I need to power the toolbox so I don't burn anything up? Also, do I need certain gauge wire to wire the components up? I'm assuming I'd need a different gauge between the SSR and element.

1500 watt element and the pump will pull around 13-15 amps. 12 guage wire will work fine both for the main power and from your SSR to the element. I used the same wire between the SSR and the element as the main power wire. Did you get a heatsink for your SSR? Anything over 5-amps really needs one. Your components, on the low-voltage side, can be wired with 16-18AWG.
 
I haven't gotten the PID, SSR, or element yet. I'll be using the toolbox as just a pump until I get those components. So I should get a heatsink for the SSR you say? I'll look into that when I order. Does the extension cord have to be under a certain length?
 
I haven't gotten the PID, SSR, or element yet. I'll be using the toolbox as just a pump until I get those components. So I should get a heatsink for the SSR you say? I'll look into that when I order. Does the extension cord have to be under a certain length?

I don't think that length would have much bearing unless it was very, very long. That's one reason to go with the bigger gauge wire. The yellow 12-3 cord they sell at Lowes makes it easy. They highly recommend a heatsink for SSRs when they are switching more than 5 amps I believe. They're relatively cheap on ebay.
 
No problem. Good luck. This stuff is still fresh in my mind because I'm just finishing mine, with a bunch of help from people here.
 
I used a 12 gauge extension cord from Harbor Freight. I dismantled one end and cut about 3 feet off of it to use the wire inside the box.

Sometimes I plug it right int my 20A outlet... on other occasions I can run a 14g extension cord between the outlet and the toolbox and have had no issues with breakers tripping or anythin frying. To be safe I would get all 12g/20A rated wiring though.
 
Thanks Brewspook, I was actually basing my layout off of your toolbox.
 
Awesome. I look forward to seeing pics of your progress.

I love mine, I usually get up in the morning and fill the system with water for no sparge, set the temp and go about my business. Come back later and add my grain, go off and do some other stuff... come back for the boil and cleanup. With the modifications I made to my CFC I can cut my brew day to less than 2 hours of actually having to be on site and if I am there the whole time I can do 10 gallons in 3.5 hours. Its sweet!

I have also used it to do a sous vide pork shoulder that was wicked good.
 
For my RIMS toolbox I want two switches. One will control the pump and one will control the PID/element. This is what I have for a wiring diagram so far. I don't know what to do for the switches, PID power, and pump. Any help?

pumpq.jpg
 
You can run a low-voltage switch between your SSR relay and the PID. You can run a regular spst switch to your pump. Just break the hot line (black) and attach each end to each terminal of th.e switch. Down is usually off on the spst. A regular radio shack selector switch is all that is needed between the PID and SSR.

EDIT: The reason you don't want to switch the PID at the power-in is so that it will continue to output temperature readings even if it is not energizing the SSR.
 
Is this what you are saying?
Also the PID power (terminals 2 & 3), do you just use the hot and neutral lines from the main power?
Thanks again Reelale

10531519.jpg
 
Is this what you are saying?
Also the PID power (terminals 2 & 3), do you just use the hot and neutral lines from the main power?
Thanks again Reelale

10531519.jpg

Yes. I'm assuming the line on the left side of the switch is the ground. I think it is green, can't tell. I just used something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103983 and tied all grounds together into the house circuit ground. Makes it a little cleaner. And yes, the PID is powered with either 120VAC or 240VAC. For 110VAC, you use the hot and neutral lines from the main power source.
 
I don't have a drawing, but here is the route I ran my power

Power plug runs into a utility outlet on side of box
From there I ran a constant hot to the PID, so I can keep temp readings without worrying about the element kicking on.
Also from constant hot I wired two single pole switches, one for the pump and one for the power to the SSR for the element. That way the PID can switch the SSR but no power will go to the element unless the switch is on.
 
Ok, so this is my final wiring schematic unless someone sees a major issue with it. It's a little busy... :D That's what happens when you are at work and the only application you have is MSPaint.



finalhx.jpg
 
I would like to add a switched outlet to run a 2000W element installed into my boil kettle. If I wire it to the terminal blocks with 12 gauge wire, would that be ok? Would it affect the other smaller gauge wiring in the toolbox in anyway?
70175274.jpg
 
I'm assuming you'll be energizing the BK element by itself. I don't see how your wiring would involve the other circuits at all if this is the case.
 
Made the element, here's an exploded diagram of how I put it together.

image001ks.jpg
 
So I completely redid the setup. The PID going to the boil kettle element is going to be used in manual mode. Both elements will not be used at the same time. This is a 120v setup, the RIMS element is 1500w and the kettle element is 2000w.

I would like to add a 3 way switch, something like kal did on his website, to select either the boil kettle or the RIMS so I don't have the option of using both at the same time. I want both PIDs to still have power going to them though. Any help?

schematic.jpg
 
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