I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel

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ILOVEBEER

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Hey guys,

I have been working on my RIMS build for months now and am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.....I AM ALMOST DONE!!!!!

I am pretty proud of it and wanted to show it to you guys....let me know what you all think.

Thanks
Joe



 
Just out of curiosity, why do you have the barrel on the right elevated, but the other two are on the same tier? I'm about to build a setup, and just want to know what works for everyone. thanks
 
Thank you.

Well considering this is my first attempt at a RIMS...the elevated is the HLT, the one to the left of it is the MLT and the far left is the BK. I designed it so I only had to use one pump and two 6' silicione hoses with SS QD's for wort transfer.

The HLT drains into the MLT via gravity through a copper manifold (sparge arm not attached in photo). In theory I could have used a single tier design with a single pump, it would just require more SS QD's. I have a sightglass on every keggle just because I am OCD and wanted to keep them uniform in appearance.

Mind you I have brewed extract and never AG....I read and read and read and decided this was the best design. I anticipate some problems, but nothing major.
 
Thank you Guy.....with guidance from you guys ofcourse!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thank you. I have left to solder a quick disonnect for m RTD temp sensor and to purchase a SS quick disconnect from morebeer and I am done!

I did a test run today and modified my copper sparge arm I made by drilling pin size holes in it. I developed a few small leaks here and there but nothing that a wrench wouldn't take care of. I am happy with the build.
 
Thank you for the compliments! I am going to redo the copper sparge arm. I don't like the original design.

I am having a small issue with the propane burner flame lapping up the side of the keg and heating up my thermometer and sight tube. I have to come up with a heat shield for that side of the keg. Even if I turn the flame doen the convection laps up the side of the keg.
 
I used a 4 in by 8 in piece of sheet steal and put half under the kettle and the other half sticking our to protect the side of the keg.
Just dont pick it up until it cools down
 
That is a very good idea...I haven't masterminded the solution, but I'll get to it...Thanks for the help!
 
I finished the final wiring to the heating element (copper cylinder) and hit some minor snags. My PID was not working correctly. I called SUYI at Auberins. He spent 20 minutes with me on the phone calibrating the PID. It works great!

I did a faux sparge using just water. Belive it or not for a 4500W element powered @ 110V it actually brought the temps up faster than I thought. Ofcourse the water from the HLT will be direct fired and the PID/element will maintain the temps nicely.

I built a new copper sparge arm that has more surface area and offset pin holes. So far so good. I'll post more pics when I get a chance.
 
I AM DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Holy Crap.........snag after snag. I originally did a test fire on the HLT and BK two weeks ago and found that the original frame (1") square tubing that the 3 kegs sat on, was allowing the flame from the two burners to lap up the sides and overheat my thermometer and sightglass. I didn't like that too much so back to the drawing board. The propane burners are housed in a 8" cage with sheet metal riveted as a housing (sides) to direct the flame upward. In theory it worked great....reality it worked to good. The flame hit the bottom of the keg and up the sided it went.....so.....

I decided to top all three frame sections with 1/8" hotrolled steel plate that I used my plasma cutter to cutout 10" circles....voila...welded them to the top, put the kegs ontop and it worked awesome.....until the friggin steel started to melt!!!!! I about rolled the whole brew rig over a cliff.

I regrouped and thought about it. I purchased some 1/2" x 2 steel stock that fit perfectly between the original frame and the new 1/8" steel plate. I made 10" square frames, hammered them in place and welded them. NO MORE STEEL DISTORTION....FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I added a 40 plate chiller to the frame and did a complete test run tonight with only water. Heated the water to 170* in the HLT, gravity fed it to the MLT....pretended to mash it with the PID and heatexchanger for an hour. I then pumped it to the BK and fired that burner up. Once the boil began I hooked up the plate chiller. The 200+ water was cooled to 70* in no time. Easily...11 gallons in less than 10 minutes at a slow feed rate.

I was at my wits end with this build and ALL THE SNAGS I kept hitting. I will say this....it is so badass to have built my own RIMS that works and looks awesome!

Thanks for the help. I am hoping to brew come Monday for the first time.

Joe
 
It looks nice...How hot is your contol panel getting in that location it looks pretty close to the burner.

Pat
 
Boar beeer...I will brother as soon as I can

Lehr.....not even a temp rise in the panel
 
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