First-timer wants to try DIY 2.5 gallon batch

Hi, hopefully this won't be an offensively stupid quesition that's been addressed before (I did search the forum with no results).

I'd like to try homebrew with minimal investement, and the ability to use whatever I do buy if I stay with the hobby. My thinking was to start with a 2.5 gallon batch, as that would allow me to use equipment I have on hand.

1) I've read that with 5 gallon batches you can get by with a 3 gallon pot to boil the wort. Can I use my 1.5 gallon (6 quart) copper bottom pot to do a 2.5 gallon wort?

2) I have clean, white plastic bins (how can I tell if they are "food safe"?) that I plan on using for the fermentor and bottling bin

3) I plan to buy a bubble valve w/ stopper that I'd mount on the top of the fermenter. I don't want to have a cloth topped batch lying around my place for a couple of weeks which is why I'd spring for the valve.

4) I'd use 24 screw top bottles (I do have leather gloves so I won't rip up my hands putting on the caps).

5) plan to buy a pvc valve and pipe that I'd mount on the bottom of the bottling bin.

6) I'd buy a "mr beer" malt extract kit as they make a 2.5 gallon batch.

I'd follow the instructions at

http://hbd.org/brewniversity/brewing/firstbatch.html

Comments? Does my plan hold any water/beer? If I can use my existing 1.5 gallon boiling pot and plastic bins, I think my first batch/equipment costs would be under 20 bucks. Thanks, Jon

I'll answer what I can....

TampaGuy said:

1) I've read that with 5 gallon batches you can get by with a 3 gallon pot to boil the wort. Can I use my 1.5 gallon (6 quart) copper bottom pot to do a 2.5 gallon wort?

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Sure. No problem with that.

TampaGuy said:

4) I'd use 24 screw top bottles (I do have leather gloves so I won't rip up my hands putting on the caps).

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It's not the application of the caps that is the problem with twist-offs. The real issue is that the caps can (and likely will) blow right off of the bottles during the conditioning stage when the beer is carbonating. They simply don't re-seal very well.

TampaGuy said:

6) I'd buy a "mr beer" malt extract kit as they make a 2.5 gallon batch.

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Or buy a regular 5 gallon beer kit and only use half of the ingredients. Put the other half in the fridge and use it for the next batch (the stuff will keep fine for a few months if you put it in tupperware and keep it cold.)

-walker

Well, you definitely can't use the screw top beer bottles...you won't get a seal. However, I do know someone who uses plastic screw top soda and water bottles with success.

... thanks for the quick replies.

I see that I'm better off with plastic screw top bottles. Do I have to keep them small to avoid explosion, or can I use the common 2 litre bottles for part of the batch? I'd use small bottles to test the fermentation time, only when it's as good as it's going to get would I put the larger bottles in the frig.

Any comments on how I can determine if my plastic bins are food safe. They were used to ship large quantities of tennis balls.

I understand cleanliness is utmost importance. But be honest with me, is my cheapo approach going to guarantee me some undrinkable stuff?

Thanks again, Jon

TampaGuy said:

I see that I'm better off with plastic screw top bottles. Do I have to keep them small to avoid explosion, or can I use the common 2 litre bottles for part of the batch? I'd use small bottles to test the fermentation time, only when it's as good as it's going to get would I put the larger bottles in the frig.

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I would imagine that either size could be used.

TampaGuy said:

Any comments on how I can determine if my plastic bins are food safe. They were used to ship large quantities of tennis balls.

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Hmmm.... if they were not used to ship food, they are very likely not food-grade materials. To be sure, just go to a restaurant and see if they will give you some of the buckets that their shipments arrive in. Don't get ones that contains smelly things (like pickles).

TampaGuy said:

I understand cleanliness is utmost importance. But be honest with me, is my cheapo approach going to guarantee me some undrinkable stuff?

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As long as you clean things and keep your fermenters sealed properly, you should be ok.

Remember: they made beer a loooooooooong time before plastic or glass existed, and they didn't even have a concept of sanitation. You can make beer with your equipment.

-walker

TampaGuy said:

Any comments on how I can determine if my plastic bins are food safe. They were used to ship large quantities of tennis balls.

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Ah ha! Check the little embossed triangle on your container. Here's a list of plastics and how to identify them:

http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/plastics.html

-walker

Cool find. I've always wondered what the different numbers stood for.

Jon, for sanitation on the cheap, use hot water and (unscented) bleach. Just make sure you rinse well, as residual bleach will make your beer taste funny.

LupusUmbrus said:

...hot water and (unscented) bleach. ....

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Not too hot! If it's too hot, the bleach's effectiveness is lessened and, worse, it'll leach unsafe odors. Warm tap water is what I use; I'd read in the past that somewhere in the 75-90oF range is ideal. Two Tbsp. for 5 gallons at 5 minutes contact time and I'm good to go. And like LupusUmbrus stated, make sure to rinse well.

LMAO, but I have to tell you that your recipe for success reminds me of someone buying a unicyle to learn how to ride a bike....

From What I can tell a Mr beer kit for 2.5g costs the same has most 5g kits.
They do in the UK. £10 for 2.5g

Thanks everyone! My containers are marked PP so I think I'm good to go. I'm also real close to the Brewshack in Tampa so I can check out their mixes and bubble valves. Just have to restrain my enthusiasm when I go in or I'll end up coming out with $100 of equipment/setup.

My ultimate goal is probably unattainable. That is to do a reasonable clone of Becks Premier light. Now I've probably alienated all that consider light beer just colored water, but to me this stuff at 64 calories still restains that German import taste. I'd love to be able to brew something similar because its buck a bottle cost puts a severe dent in the mild, hangover free buzz I get from drinking a sixpack....

For what it's worth; Becks light is the ONLY light beer I will drink.

-walker

Can't help but asking, have you tasted Becks Premier light (vs. light)? I really am amazed by the flavor given the low calorie/low alcohol. I think Beck's light is up around 110 calories and a higher proof.

More importantly, have you had success brewing your own low calorie/alcohol (assuming you can tell without the FDA label....

Walker said:

For what it's worth; Becks light is the ONLY light beer I will drink.

-walker

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hmm.. well I actually didn't know they had two different kinds of light beer. so... I guess I haven't had the premier version.

as for me brewing low calorie/alcohol beer. I have absolutely no idea how many calories are in my beers and I don't usually bother to take gravity readings and don't know how much alcohol is in my beer.

I just make beer. And it tastes good.

-walker

My input here is on the freshness of the yeast in a kit. Anything over 6 months old is suspect. I would proof it the day before, or buy an extra packet of dry yeast (I like Nottingham) as a backup.

I'm focused on the older style, low APV ales, milds, browns, etc. I figure there will always be plenty of high gravity, heavily hopped ales at club meetings. They're great, but a good sesson beer is something you can sip all day and still not be tempted to burn the brewery in the morning!