Fuel tank filter to replace SS braid ?

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lxxenigmaxxl

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Anyone ever think of using a fuel tank sediment filter for a mash tun filter or know if they make them from ss
 
chevy_c10_pickup_1965_fuel_sending_unit_filter_sock_5_16_oem_n_a_na.jpgNo, was think more along the lines of this
 
Had problems with SS braid and am afraid to try again and copper is so expensive

what were your problems? Many veteran brewers have used them for hundreds of batches. I use one. I get slow runoff occasionally but it's not a big deal.
 
The heater hose braid stopped the wort from filtering. I pulled it off and cleaned it and i still had problems Finally had to give up on it and used a power supply cable management mesh tube and some copper coiled up to hold it open.
 
How long of braid did you use? You want a good 12" or more. Weird. A TON of guys are using the tiny toilet supply braid and don't have issues. What kind of mash tun do you have and what is your overall setup?
 
2 Xtream colmane One the HLT and the other the mash tun with a 15 inch 3/4 shark bite attached to a 3/4 barbW169963-2T.jpg
 
The heater hose braid stopped the wort from filtering. I pulled it off and cleaned it and i still had problems Finally had to give up on it and used a power supply cable management mesh tube and some copper coiled up to hold it open.

I've been using a braid for over 7 years without a problem, maybe try making a longer loop?
 
2 Xtream colmane One the HLT and the other the mash tun with a 15 inch 3/4 shark bite attached to a 3/4 barbView attachment 89493

Did you cut off the ends and remove the hose from the inside? You can't use a braid as-is...it has a solid rubber hose inside that must be removed so that only the SS sheath is intact. Then you hose-clamp the sheath to a hose-barb and hose-clamp a SS bolt to the other end to plug it, or crimp it and fold it over on itself.

If you didn't modify that braid, you had zero holes for wort to flow.
 
Do you think maybe I over did it with braid and it was to tight. So if I buy a normal sink SS braid i would be ok.

Or something eles
 
Did you cut off the ends and remove the hose from the inside? You can't use a braid as-is...it has a solid rubber hose inside that must be removed so that only the SS sheath is intact. Then you hose-clamp the sheath to a hose-barb and hose-clamp a SS bolt to the other end to plug it, or crimp it and fold it over on itself.

If you didn't modify that braid, you had zero holes for wort to flow.

Yep I sure did except I shoved a brass cap the size if a nickle in the open end and clamped it down thinking it would have help keep it open (which It did).
 
So i guess my idea of using a sending unit filter as a mash tun filter is a little ridiculous.
 
Have you used both in the same mash tun?

I have two mash tuns, one with a braid (for 5-10 gallon batches) and one with CPVC (that I use for 10-20 gallon batches -- and high gravity batches). I've had my fair share of stuck sparges with a braid but have never had one using CPVC.
 
I have two mash tuns, one with a braid (for 5-10 gallon batches) and one with CPVC (that I use for 10-20 gallon batches -- and high gravity batches). I've had my fair share of stuck sparges with a braid but have never had one using CPVC.

Sorry to ask so many questions but did you cut slots or drill holes and if holes how big

Also were holes on top, bottom or both.


Thanks for the info. I cannot screw this up again.
 
I used a dremel tool to cut slits into the 1/2" tubing. I have one tube running the length of my rectangler mash tun with an unglued cap on the end. I point the slits in the tubing toward the bottom.
Cleanup is a snap since the tubing pops out (unglued) and I flush it with a hose.

Unfortunately I lost my previous links when I initially built mine several years ago but here are a few links that might give you an idea:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Converting_a_cooler_to_a_mash_tun#Manifold
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-mash-tun-design-parts-list-updated-cost-243974/
 
I built a braid from parts I ordered from McMaster Carr. I included springs inside the braid to ensure it would stay open under weight. Initially it seemed clogged, so I straightened out a length of 12awg solid core copper wire and jammed it through the valve. After stretching the braid and letting it relax, flow immediately improved. Only had to do it once. I'm happy with that solution.
 
How long of braid did you use? You want a good 12" or more. Weird. A TON of guys are using the tiny toilet supply braid and don't have issues. What kind of mash tun do you have and what is your overall setup?

Length doesn't matter. I get equal results with a 3 in. or 18 in. braid.
 
I had 1 SS braid that caused me problems. When I was taking it off the hose and it didn't slide off as nice as I remembered the first one I did. It almost seem to be glued on. The first two times I had a stuck mash using it so I took it off and threw it away. I put the old one on and no problem. I later replaced it with another hose and the braid slid off like it should. No problems. I wish I would have kept the problem braid and checked it out closer. I know it was stainless, but I think it might have been coated and clogged the braid.
 
Well I brewed 2 batches today with a SS toilet connection and everything finally worked like it was suppose too. After comparing the two the braids on the water heater hose & toilet hose I bought, I could see some sun light through the toilet hose but the Heater hose was pretty solid with no light shining through.

And no, it was not plastic. I spotted the plastic one's before i even picked it up off the self. The braid is very soft and has an unmistakable grey color to it. SS sheen to it is a dead give away.

So...I guess what I'm getting at is, don't buy water heater SS.:tank:

Oh.. one last thing.. I still think using a the entire sending unit out of a gas tank of a car would be a awsome idea. I would just need to be modified a bit.
 
The one I had that plugged was a 3/8" toilet hose. I think it may be more of a manufacturer process rather than what it was intended for. I currently have a 1/2" water heater SS hose and it works fine.
 
There are a lot of people out there with a "bigger is better" sensibility and in this case that can work against you.

I can attest to that ...and for absolutely no good reason. Its the motion of the ocean not the circumference of your braid.... Am I right guys or am I standing alone on this one.:smack::smack::smack:.:off:

But in all seriousness I do agree that the manufacturer is the root of the this issue and I guess you should stay away from SHARKBITE brand and make sure the braids are not too tight.
 
There are a lot of people out there with a "bigger is better" sensibility and in this case that can work against you.

Not sure how a larger diameter braid can work against you . I can understand that it might not be any advantage. I've seen this topic before. I've tried to nudge it to a discussion about no matter what diameter hose you use there seems to be a difference in SS braided hoses. I started with the 3/8" worked fine, but needed replaced. I replaced it with another 3/8" and it never worked. I replaced that with a 1/2" because it came in longer length and I could cut it to make three hoses. I don't notice a difference between 3/8" and 1/2" but 1/2" hasn't preformed any worse. No detriment. The point is it seems that some SS braided hose might be coated with a substance that affects it's performance.
 
I agree that it's the design and manufacture of the braid that can be the issue. what I was getting at is that I've seen too many people wind up using poorly designed (for brewing) braids just because they were bigger. Also, too many people seem to think longer is better and all that usually does is make sure the braid gets tangled when you stir.
 
I can attest to that ...and for absolutely no good reason. Its the motion of the ocean not the circumference of your braid.... Am I right guys or am I standing alone on this one.:smack::smack::smack:.:off:

But in all seriousness I do agree that the manufacturer is the root of the this issue and I guess you should stay away from SHARKBITE brand and make sure the braids are not too tight.

I was an (un) fortunate witness and participant to the ss braid debacle, I can attest to the fact that the first run (heater line) plugged and clogged horribly, no amount of stirring, flushing, attempted batch sparging etc. Would keep it clear. Second run with toilet line seemed more "workable" when it was just the braid, almost like it was less springy and held shape better, also ran a nice coil of copper gnd line from a section of 12/2 romex that started about 2x longer than the braid, wrapped it around a nice round screwdriver shaft and "threaded" the braid over it, then conformed the braid to the copper "spring", next time we brew I'll take pics of both the workable and crap braid. I am thinking the first one will have more "wires per braid ie. braid density..." //////\\\\\\ vs toilet like being kinda like ////\\\\ thus it would be less dense, easier to contour/hold shape and flow better all around. We should then be able to close the book and maybe give a definitive of what to look out for, sure there are many many that will work, but for now shark bite heater will not ;) sound like a plan enigma???
 
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