How to lower FG...?
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It's only been 10 days. I'd give it another week & check it again. Fermentation isn't always rapid. Plus some extracts seem to have a lot more unfermentables than others.
Unfortunately, this is more about preventative processes and cannot easily be fixed after the fact. Yeast health, pitch size, pre-pitch oxygenation, proper nutrient levels, using primarily extract vs. mashing grains, maintaining stable fermentation temperatures, mash temp. / time, hitting your projected OG, etc. can all have something to do with your FG being higher than expected.
95% or more of fermentation occurs within the first 3 to 7 days. I doubt you will hit 1.005 if you're at 1.021 on day 10. It may drop to 1.018/19, but that's about it. I would still leave it in for another week or two for conditioning/refining.
95% or more of fermentation occurs within the first 3 to 7 days. I doubt you will hit 1.005 if you're at 1.021 on day 10. It may drop to 1.018/19, but that's about it. I would still leave it in for another week or two for conditioning/refining.
Ime,yeast starters made it take off sooner. But not always done sooner. What was your initial ferment temp? Too cool & the yeast get sluggish or stall out.
stratslinger
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Where are you pulling your target of 1.005 from? Seems a rather arbitrary number... You'll get whatever FG your yeast and your extract give you - but, like uniondr suggested, at 10 days, it's still a little early to get nervous that 1.021 is your FG. Give it another few days and pull another sample. You may drop into the mid teens.
I'd actually disagree with what bobbrews says there - I had one brew, some time ago, that was around 1.020ish at about 2 and a half weeks in the fermenter. I gave it a gentle swirl and an extra week, and it hit 1.016.
Now, as for what actual FG you might be likely to hit, your recipe, your yeast, and your fermentation temperatures all play a role. If you can share those, we may be able to help tell you what you can really expect for an FG.
I'd actually disagree with what bobbrews says there - I had one brew, some time ago, that was around 1.020ish at about 2 and a half weeks in the fermenter. I gave it a gentle swirl and an extra week, and it hit 1.016.
Now, as for what actual FG you might be likely to hit, your recipe, your yeast, and your fermentation temperatures all play a role. If you can share those, we may be able to help tell you what you can really expect for an FG.
That may be possible. But 1.020ish (which could be 1.018, 1.019, 1.020) down to 1.016 is hardly the same as 1.020 down to 1.005. Plus, you may have followed better processes, as mentioned above.
I agree that at this point it seems more recipe related. Temp was fine to produce esters common to wheat beer flavors. But maybe underpitched.
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Romeo
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stratslinger said:
Thank you, before pitching 10 days ago it was 1040 at 72f. I live in miami and temp control is quit difficult but my house temp is 70/72 the recipe does tell me anything about FG only OG ...I added lavender at 15 and flame out...what is going to my ABV..?
Not enough yeast. They can stress out & go dormant. IE,stall out.
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Try rousing your yeast. I use a well-sanitized long spoon or "swirl" the whole fermenter if that is practical. Be careful to not splash. A few good deep stirs should be enough. Then let it sit for a few days and recheck.
A question of method: how did you measure your starting gravity? Did you use a refractometer or hydrometer? What was the temperature of the sweet wort (unfermented)? If you used a hydrometer, you need to add 0.0001 points for each degree over 60.
1.040 to 1.020 is only 50% attenuation - pretty weak. 1.040 to 1.005 is close to 90% attenuation - not realistic. 70% to 75% attenuation is more realistic. I would think you would want it somewhere between 1.010 and 1.015 depending on your actual SG.
Good luck!
A question of method: how did you measure your starting gravity? Did you use a refractometer or hydrometer? What was the temperature of the sweet wort (unfermented)? If you used a hydrometer, you need to add 0.0001 points for each degree over 60.
1.040 to 1.020 is only 50% attenuation - pretty weak. 1.040 to 1.005 is close to 90% attenuation - not realistic. 70% to 75% attenuation is more realistic. I would think you would want it somewhere between 1.010 and 1.015 depending on your actual SG.
Good luck!
stratslinger
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And the rest of my questions? Knowing the OG is helpful, but without knowing the yeast strain, or what actual fermentables went into the brew, we're all shooting mostly blind.
What I can say is that MOST ale strains attenuate in the neighborhood of 70-75%. So, IF your extract was ideal (very fresh, very good quality) and your starter good and healthy, you could likely expect to see somewhere around 1.010 to 1.012. If the yeast strain you used was less attenuative, your FG will tend to be higher. If the extract you used sat on the shelf at the LHBS for some time, your FG will tend to be higher. If the extract was slightly lesser quality (some are apparently less fermentable than others), that'll tend to drive up your FG as well. If this was an AG brew and you mashed a few degrees high, your FG will tend to be higher (not sure you ever specified).
Basically, there are a bunch of variables at play. But, I'll say again: you're only 10 days it. Give it at least another 4 or 5 days, check it again. If you're still at the same gravity, that's all you're getting out of this wort.
One other thought - if you haven't already done so, make sure you're correcting your hydrometer readings for temperature!
Fermentation will stop when there are no more fermentable sugars left for the yeast to feed on. If that is the case there is nothing you can do to lower the gravity further.
Extract brews, for reasons that I don't recall, often stop near 1.020. If it does there is also nothing you can do.
I would swirl up the yeast a little and wait until week 3 then bottle.
To know the ABV then use and online calculator (google it) which uses OG and FG and what you get is what you get.
IMO just ride with it and do not be concerned with the ABV. If the beer tastes good I do not care about the alcohol level.
Extract brews, for reasons that I don't recall, often stop near 1.020. If it does there is also nothing you can do.
I would swirl up the yeast a little and wait until week 3 then bottle.
To know the ABV then use and online calculator (google it) which uses OG and FG and what you get is what you get.
IMO just ride with it and do not be concerned with the ABV. If the beer tastes good I do not care about the alcohol level.
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Romeo
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jsv1204 said:
Thanks again gentlemen I didn't know that when you use a refractometer you have to add .001 per
Temp above 60f which means that I'm at 70f.
0.010 + 1.040 OG = 1.050 OG
I believe 1.050 OG and 1.020/1.019 FG is going to be ok.
Aboo
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I believe he said +.0001 for every one degree over 60. Not .001
But I'd like clarification there too. Cause I had no idea. I cool the wort to 68, pour it back and forth a few times and pitch. Sometimes with starter, sometimes without. Had no idea the temperature impacted the Gravity...
But I'd like clarification there too. Cause I had no idea. I cool the wort to 68, pour it back and forth a few times and pitch. Sometimes with starter, sometimes without. Had no idea the temperature impacted the Gravity...
JTylerSingletary
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If all else fails throw in some yeast energizer and maybe even a packet of champagne yeast. The champagne yeast will usually dry the beer out quite a bit, but 1.005 is probably unrealistic.
Safa
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There's a handy dandy app for iphone called AlcoholCalculator which adjusts the gravity reading for temperature. Much easier!
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Romeo
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Aboo said:I believe he said +.0001 for every one degree over 60. Not .001
But I'd like clarification there too. Cause I had no idea. I cool the wort to 68, pour it back and forth a few times and pitch. Sometimes with starter, sometimes without. Had no idea the temperature impacted the Gravity...
Not a bad idea thank you
stratslinger
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Easy, more fermemtables! Are you currently brewing from kits? If you are, just look for a kit that has a higher OG - big stouts, IIPAs, Imperial anything really, will tend to be up in that neighborhood.
If you're working on your own recipes, then it's a different matter - there's a whole balance to adding the right amount of the right extra fermentables, whether that's additional extract, or additional grain (if you're an all grain brewer), balanced with enough of the right hops so that what you produce is still a good finished beer.
metanoia
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Ok, first of all, Google what adjustments to make for hydrometer readings; it's not quite .0001 per degree, but your adjusted OG would be around 1.051-1.052.
To calculate the ABV at anytime, subtract the current SG from the OG times 131. In your case right now, 1.051 - 1.020 = .031 * 131 = 4.1% ABV.
To calculate the ABV at anytime, subtract the current SG from the OG times 131. In your case right now, 1.051 - 1.020 = .031 * 131 = 4.1% ABV.
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Romeo
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metanoia said:
I'm using a refractometer and my OG was 1.040 with the difference added by the rule of thumb 0.0001 per degree above 60. Which in my case was 1.039 + (0.0001*10) = 1.040
To get back on your calculation 1.040-1.020=.020*131=2.62% ABV which for me think is way to low ....!!!
I can't get anything more my first beer was the same thing low in alcohol ....? What did I do wrong....;(
superfknmario
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Higher OG means more alcohol. You will also need more yeast. I have a belgian stron golden ale(from northern brewer) and I pitched two vials of liquid yeast. I'll let you know what the FG is when it's done fermenting.
Did you buy a recipe kit or did u just create one yourself?
Did you buy a recipe kit or did u just create one yourself?
superfknmario
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PS
Greetings from a fellow Miami home brewer!
Greetings from a fellow Miami home brewer!
metanoia
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Sorry, my bad, I was on my phone and remembered your number wrong. Yes, 1.040 to 1.020 would be 2.6% ABV. But like others have said, give it another week or two and it should hopefully go lower. Move it to a warmer location to try and get some more fermentation out, though the warmer location will also help the yeast eat the diacetyl.
ArcticBear
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if you are using a refractometer you arent going to get accurate readings once alcohol is in play. Your best bet would be, as everyone else has said, let it ride a few days, but also pick up a hydrometer and use that for your FG readings.
I use a calibrated refractometer during brew day all throughout the boil and then switch to a hydrometer for checking fermentation and finding my FG.
That being said I usually don't touch the fermenter until it has sat for at least 2 weeks. The only thing you really gain from checking and rechecking and waiting a day and checking again is the chance of introducing an infection.
Relax, its beer making...its not science :cross:
metanoia
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Please stop right now, you're giving out horrible advice.
First of all, a higher OG doesn't mean more alcohol. Yes, a higher OG provides a chance for a higher ABV since there usually are more fermentables for the yeast to eat, but if the FG doesn't get low enough, then there might be less alcohol than you'd assume. It all depends on the yeast strain, health, amount pitched, fermentation temperature, and a lot of other factors.
Second, he shouldn't automatically need more yeast. A wheat beer starting at 1.040 doesn't need that much yeast, especially not when compared to a Belgian strong ale! I don't believe that OP posted how much of a starter he made, or how long it was made/fed in advance, but a typical starter for smaller beer like a wheat should be fine even if he pitched right out of the yeast vial. As others have suggested, gently rousing the yeast may be all he needs to get fermentation finished. Or, you know, just being patient and waiting more than 10 days.
Most refractometers don't need temperature adjustment, so don't do that for the OG. Since refractometers are useless for FG, don't use them for a final gravity. Use the hydrometer.
I have no idea what your OG or FG is (and I don't think anybody can tell, if you didn't use a hydromter for the FG) so I'd suggest taking one more hydrometer reading for the FG, and posting the recipe (so we can guestimate the actual OG) and then can give some reasonable advice. Thanks!
I have no idea what your OG or FG is (and I don't think anybody can tell, if you didn't use a hydromter for the FG) so I'd suggest taking one more hydrometer reading for the FG, and posting the recipe (so we can guestimate the actual OG) and then can give some reasonable advice. Thanks!
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Romeo
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superfknmario said:
I bought the extract kit from Northern Brewer American Wheat but I added Lavender in it at 15 min and some at flame out. I think i'm doing something wrong but i don't know what ..;(
I created a yeast starter 24 hours before and when i used my stir plate for 4 hours the day off yeast starter then left it over room temp. The next day (Brewing day) just before pitching i put it 1 min on the stir plate to mix everything, it took me 15 mins to reduce the wort under 90 F then because i live in miami temp is warmer took few hour to lower it at 72 and I pitch at 72 which i believe i a little bit to hight ....can i get some feed back ....
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Romeo
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metanoia said:Please stop right now, you're giving out horrible advice.
First of all, a higher OG doesn't mean more alcohol. Yes, a higher OG provides a chance for a higher ABV since there usually are more fermentables for the yeast to eat, but if the FG doesn't get low enough, then there might be less alcohol than you'd assume. It all depends on the yeast strain, health, amount pitched, fermentation temperature, and a lot of other factors.
Second, he shouldn't automatically need more yeast. A wheat beer starting at 1.040 doesn't need that much yeast, especially not when compared to a Belgian strong ale! I don't believe that OP posted how much of a starter he made, or how long it was made/fed in advance, but a typical starter for smaller beer like a wheat should be fine even if he pitched right out of the yeast vial. As others have suggested, gently rousing the yeast may be all he needs to get fermentation finished. Or, you know, just being patient and waiting more than 10 days.
Thank you sounds good are you an all grainer,..?
ArcticBear
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this is true for all types of beer brewing. it makes no difference if you are an AG guy for someone who brews Extracts...
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Romeo
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Yooper said:
Here is the recipe that had use to make the beer but on top of it i added lavender at 15 and flame out.
The OG that i got was at temp 72 1.040 ....thanks for helping appreciate it.
A familiar style made popular by microbreweries all
over the US. Like their German cousins, American wheat beers feature large proportions of malted wheat in the grain bill and are naturally cloudy in appearance. Unlike German Weizenbiers, though, American wheat beers have a bit more hop character and are fermented with a milder-tasting yeast, resulting in a more clean, neutral finish. Wyeast’s US Hefeweizen strain makes for a spritzy, refreshing warm-weather crowd-pleaser.
O.G: 1.043 READY: 4 WEEKS
2 weeks primary, 2 weeks bottle conditioning
KIT INVENTORY:
FERMENTABLES
- 6lbsWheatmaltsyrup BOIL ADDITIONS
- 1ozWillamette(60min) - 1ozCascade(15min)
YEAST
- DRYYEAST(DEFAULT):SafaleUS-05AleYeast.Optimum temp: 59°-75° F
- LIQUID YEAST OPTION: Wyeast 1010 American Wheat. Apparent attenuation: 74–78%. Flocculation: low. Optimum temp: 58°-74° F.
PRIMING SUGAR
- 5ozPrimingSugar(saveforBottlingDay)
These simple instructions are basic brewing procedures for this Northern Brewer extract beer kit; please refer to your starter kit instructions for specific instructions on use of equipment and common procedures such as siphoning, sanitizing, bottling, etc.
For more detailed extract brewing instructions, please visit www.northernbrewer.com
BEFORE YOU BEGIN ...
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS
- Homebrewingstarterkitforbrewing5gallonbatches
- Boilingkettleofatleast3.5gallonscapacity
- Approximatelytwocasesofeither12ozor22ozpry-off style beer bottles
UNPACK THE KIT
- Refrigeratetheyeastuponarrival
- LocatetheKitInventory(above)–thisistherecipeforyour
beer, so keep it handy
- Doublechecktheboxcontentsvs.theKitInventory
- Contactusimmediatelyifyouhaveanyques- tions or concerns!
PROCEDURE
A FEW DAYS BEFORE BREWING DAY
1. Remove the liquid Wyeast pack from the refrigerator, and “smack” as shown on the back of the yeast package. Leave it in a warm place (70–80° F) to incubate until the pack begins to inflate. Allow at least 3 hours for inflation; some packs may take up to several days to show infla- tion. Do not brew with inactive yeast — we can replace the yeast, but not a batch that fails to ferment properly. If you are using dry yeast, no action is needed.
ON BREWING DAY
2. Collect and heat 2.5 gallons of water.
3. Bring to a boil and add 6 lb Wheat malt syrup. Remove the kettle from the burner and stir in the Wheat malt syrup.
4.Returnworttoboil.Themixtureisnowcalled“wort”, the brewer’s term for unfermented beer.
- Add1ozWillamettehops,andboilfor60minutes.
- Add1ozCascadehops15minutesbeforetheendoftheboil.
5. Cool the wort. When the 60-minute boil is finished, cool the wort to approximately 100° F as rapidly as possible.Useawortchiller,orputthekettleinanice bath in your sink.
6. Sanitize fermenting equipment and yeast pack. While the wort cools, sanitize the fermenting equipment – fermenter, lid or stopper, fermentation lock, funnel, etc – along with the yeast pack and a pair of scissors.
7.Fillprimaryfermenterwith2gallonsofcoldwater, then pour in the cooled wort. Leave any thick sludge in the bottom of the kettle.
8. Add more cold water as needed to bring the volume to 5 gallons.
9. Aerate the wort. Seal the fermenter and rock back and forth to splash for a few minutes, or use an aeration system and diffusion stone.
10. OPTIONAL: if you have our Mad Brewer Upgrade or Gravity Testing kits, measure specific gravity of the wort with a hydrometer and record.
11. Add yeast once the temperature of the wort is 78°F or lower(notwarmtothetouch).Usethesanitizedscissors to cut off a corner of the yeast pack, and carefully pour the yeast into the primary fermenter.
12. Seal the fermenter. Add approximately 1 tablespoon of water to the sanitized fermentation lock. Insert the lock into rubber stopper or lid, and seal the fermenter.
13.Movethefermentertoawarm,dark,quietspotuntil fermentation begins.
BEYOND BREWING DAY, WEEKS 1–2
14. Active fermentation begins. Within approximately 48 hours of Brewing Day, active fermentation will begin – there will be a cap of foam on the surface of the beer, and you may see bubbles come through the fermenta- tion lock. The optimum fermentation temperature for this beer is 60–72o F – move the fermenter to a warmer or cooler spot as needed.
15. Active fermentation ends. Approximately 1–2 weeks after brewing day, active fermentation will end: the cap of foam falls back into the new beer, bubbling in the fermentation lock slows down or stops.
BOTTLING DAY—ABOUT 2 WEEKS AFTER BREWING DAY
16.Sanitizesiphoningandbottlingequipment.
17. Mix a priming solution (a measured amount of sugar dissolved in water to carbonate the bottled beer) of 2/3 cup priming sugar in 16 oz water. Bring the solution to a boil and pour into the bottling bucket.
18. Siphon beer into bottling bucket and mix with priming solution. Stir gently to mix—don’t splash.
19. Fill and cap bottles.
2 WEEKS AFTER BOTTLING DAY
20. Condition bottles at room temperature for 2 weeks. After this point, the bottles can be stored cool or cold.
21.Serving.Pourintoacleanglass,beingcarefultoleave the layer of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Cheers!
metanoia
Well-Known Member
I just started AG, so both I guess. But my advice is true for any kind of brewing.
Also, I just saw the directions that you posted. Disregard them. Pick up either Palmer's How to Brew or Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing (I prefer How to Brew); either one will become your bible. Follow their directions and advice, which will produce much better beer than these directions I see the home brew shops handing out with kits. Also, browse these forums as often as you can, as they'll provide addition advice and resources that have surfaced since the latest editions of these two books. I've found that Yooper and Revvy are two of the most trusted resources here in the beginning forum.
Why I say disregard the directions you have is because the magic number of 2 weeks primary, 2 weeks bottle is very outdated and I believe mostly a ploy by the home brew shops to try and get you back in to buy a new kit sooner. Let the yeast do their work in the primary for a good 3-4 weeks; the yeasts are much more reliable than they used to be and the beer can easily sit on them for months with no ill effects.
Pick up a hydrometer as others have suggested, because your refractometer won't give you accurage SG once there is alcohol in the solution (which is as soon as you pitch the yeast and anytime moving forward). Use the hydrometer in a couple weeks and take your SG readings a couple days apart. Hopefully the OG will be lower when those readings are consistent across multiple days.
Also, don't use whatever stock amount of sugar they tell you to when bottling, especially if it's measured in volume and not weight. Use this calculator to find out how many volumes of CO2 you need for your style of beer and how much sugar is required to achieve that level: Carbonation calculator. Let the bottles condition for at least 2-3 weeks, then toss a couple in the fridge for a few days to a week and see how they are. Continue throwing a couple bottles in to chill until you have the carbonation that you want and the flavor has mellowed out, then chill them all for at least a week.
This is all basic advice; the more important advice is to just read read read all that you can. There are copious amounts of brewing knowledge out there, and absorbing as much as possible can only help produce better beers in the future.
Cheers, my friend.
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