Soldering Stainless steel

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I'm going to get the liquid harris flux, my local welding shop has that but their harris silver solder was $90 for the roll thought that was a little much..
 
Just did a boil test with 13gal, and the welding spud for my temp probe that I silver solder has a major leak. I had leak tested it before with the same amount of water (just standing still room temp) and had no leaks. Why would it start leaking now when boiling? In case you ask, yes I did use all the correct materials. Thinking about calling up the machine shop tomorrow and seeing how much it would cost to get it welded.
 
Tried my hand at soldering stainless to copper the yesterday. Complete failure to start with. Just using generic silver solder and flux from the local hardware shop.
Had a read on the forum and saw a recommendation for using hydrochloric acid based flux instead. Didn't have any so dipped the end of the stainless pipe into some hydrochloric acid (used for brewing) and let it soak for while. Soldering worked perfectly after, still using normal silver solder.

The right flux is the key, but hydrochloric acid is a good substitute.
 
Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.
 
Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.

The water in it keeps it from melting, like you said.
 
Sorry if this has already been asked, don't really want to read though 125 pages of posts. If silver solder can be melted with a propane torch wont the solder melt when its sitting on my burner doing a boil or would that only be an issue if the kettle is empty with no liquid thermal mass keeping the temp down.

It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.
 
It is also wise to have a good tight connection between the two pieces before soldering for a few reasons. Easier solder, and if you happen to make a mistake and dry fire the fitting wont move or fall out.

Yeah I have watched a few videos on how to dimple...
 
Everbody has a different take on this, so I thought I throw out mine.

I'm way to cheap to buy anything, so I built a dimple maker out of 2 sockets and bolt.

Drilled a 1/2" hole with a step bit, pulled the dimple, and ran 3/4 ridged copper pipe through and soldered.

Attach fitting of your choice to pipe.

13mm kobalt 1/2 drive socket makes the dimple

24mm socket, bolt, washers, nut yada yada yada

don't pull it all the way through it will be too loose

IMG_7613.jpg

Now we're talkin':rockin:
 
Ok I don't remember if it was mentioned after reading this massive thread. Where can I buy the butt weld part local. I went to lowes and Home Depot and have only found the threaded fitting and none are reducers like we need

Please if you know let me know I really wana get some dimples pulled tonight.
 
I'm just going to start building mine :ban:

I planning on using a 2" TC ferrule for a coupling a heating element. But according to BH, it "...Does NOT fit a RIPP or 'wavy' element" ?? I thought that was the reason for going to a 2" vs a 1"?

Here's the 2" Tri Clover Compatible X 1" NPS Element Adapter:
https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html

Here's my element:
imag0400-60949.jpg


If the above does work, can you get away with a short ferrule or do you need a medium one?

********EDIT*********
After thinking about it more, it may be possible that there isn't enough length from the end of the element (that folds back) to the kettle once you stack you the lengths of the ferrule & element adapter-True?
If I need something shorter, would a short 2" (or 1.5") ferrule with a TC/NPS fitting work? Guess I could always solder the TC/NPS fitting to an electrical gang box cover and box like Kal to shorten it up as much as possible-Thoughts?

Anyone buy reducers for dimpling a 2" vs making your own? Looking to see what my options are....
 
I have that element in front of me and it fits into a 1.5" TC adapter and LONG ferrule no problem. I'm not sure what the perceived problem is. It works with a regular 1.5" TC to 1" NPSL adapter or with the enclosed version we sell like this one:
enclosure.png
 
What has been the best/cheapest method for making holes for 1/2 NPT couplers and 1.5" TC?
I plan to use a 7/8 hole saw for the coupler but can't find a good size for the TC.

Parts for the keg tools:
1/2" coupler> McMaster 45605K725 & 4335T65
1.5 TC> McMaster 45605K711 & 4335T64
 
Regular plumbing solder (lead free stuff) is mostly tin with some antimony. Harris stay brite, for example, replaces the antimony with silver and the benefit is a stronger joint that is less sensitive to heating/cooling cycle stress.
 
What has been the best/cheapest method for making holes for 1/2 NPT couplers and 1.5" TC?
I plan to use a 7/8 hole saw for the coupler but can't find a good size for the TC.

Parts for the keg tools:
1/2" coupler> McMaster 45605K725 & 4335T65
1.5 TC> McMaster 45605K711 & 4335T64

If it helps I got my reducer coupling here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWTYPA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It was less expensive and if you are a prime member free 2 day shipping.

I also used a 1" PVC coupling instead of the SS version. It was less and $1 and worked great to dimple 7+ holes in my keggles.

Also make sure to get a grade 8 nut and bolt.
 
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I am going to attempt to create a dimple to solder a 90° elbow to the side of my pot. My question is, how much smaller should I make the hole compared to the elbow to make a solid shoulder?

And for you smart people, I will be grinding the lip on the elbow off so that the bend will be flat against the pot, as in the soldering will be done as close to the bend as possible.

I will be using this to create the dimple http://www.mcmaster.com/#45605k111/=or1oaf. If I remember correctly, the outside diameter of the elbow is 1.011". So to create a decent shoulder for that sized hole, my drilled hole needs to be smaller. The question is how much. 1/8", 1/4"?
 
Most elbows have a raised ring at the edges but reduce in size towards the bend. I don't know how flush you'll really be able to get it. The butt weld 1/2" side will just fit into 13/16 so that would be your minimum place to start with the hole size.
 
I am looking to do this as a fix for a weldless fitting I made and made the hole a tad too large and I can't quite get a good seal with standard rubber seals that go around a 1/2" NPT nipple which goes through the hole and then 2 locknuts smashing them against the keg wall.

This is on the side of the keg, so it is rounded so I think welding spuds are out right? What are my other options?
 
Yay I made it to the end. Now to start soldering. I noticed at least 1 of you are using kobalt sockets to make your dimpling tool. What sockets are recommended for 1/2" full coupler. And if possible what sockets should work for a 1" half coupler?
 
Ruby fluid is also a good flux fairly cheap also , muriatic acid will work . As much as some of you pay for flux and silver solder . Prob have it tig welded .
 
Has anyone noticed any difference in difficulty in soldering the various alloys of stainless? (18/8 vs 316, etc.)
 
Ruby fluid is also a good flux fairly cheap also , muriatic acid will work . As much as some of you pay for flux and silver solder . Prob have it tig welded .

I paid $12 for my .5 oz stay bright flux and silver solder combo pack and I've dimpled and soldered 9 couplings between the kettle and HLT. I have more than enough solder and flux left to do the elements in both. I'm still on the same 14oz propane tank for my torch also. The dimple tool I used was <$20.

How much does tig welding cost? I've never looked into it.
 
Quick questions... I have been trying to solder my stainless pots but I am having an issue with the pot splitting. I have been using a punch, now at 7/8" and using a dimpler to grow it to 1" but it has been causing the pipe to split rather than just grow. After the pot split, sometimes in a few areas I still tried to solder everything... the hole soldered well, but where there are splits, the solder drips out rather than filling the holes... so I have two questions...

How do i fill the gaps where the solder initially bled through? I can likely re flux it, then just let the solder bead drip through it by melting it above the hole and hoping it stop, drys and sticks to the openings... other than that I am at a loss... use a soldering iron?

How can I grow the holes such that it doesn't split?! Should I warm the pot up before I try to use the expander? should I use a drill so there is a constant force? Should I get an even larger punch, say 15/16"?
 
How big is the hole? The large OD flat gasket might be the ticket if you're using an oring now.

I currently have a 1/2" ID NPT threaded nipple going through right now and there is too much space around the edges that the rubber gasket that is used, slips inside the hole, albeit a tight fit, but not water tight
 
Quick questions... I have been trying to solder my stainless pots but I am having an issue with the pot splitting. I have been using a punch, now at 7/8" and using a dimpler to grow it to 1" but it has been causing the pipe to split rather than just grow. After the pot split, sometimes in a few areas I still tried to solder everything... the hole soldered well, but where there are splits, the solder drips out rather than filling the holes... so I have two questions...

How do i fill the gaps where the solder initially bled through? I can likely re flux it, then just let the solder bead drip through it by melting it above the hole and hoping it stop, drys and sticks to the openings... other than that I am at a loss... use a soldering iron?

How can I grow the holes such that it doesn't split?! Should I warm the pot up before I try to use the expander? should I use a drill so there is a constant force? Should I get an even larger punch, say 15/16"?

Wow, that's unfortunate. Honestly, if you can't pull a 7/8 hole to 1", I don't think this method is viable for you. If you use a 15/16" hole and pull it to 1", that's only 1/32" contact patch. I suspect there may be too large of a gap between your mandrel and die for the thin-ness of your pot. What's the ID of your pulling die?
 
This is the puller I am using.

When I put it through the hole made from the die, it makes it about a 1/2" through before meeting resistance, I do notice it doesn't want to pull straight through, which is telling me there is more stress on once side vs. another.

Any suggestions on how I can fill the holes left from these cracks? would pictures help?
 
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Are you using regular Harris stay brite or stay brite #8? The higher silver content of #8 will fill larger gaps. One trick is to get everything nice a clean again, flux, then cold solder over the hole. This isn't really ideal, but it will seal the holes just fine... Warm up the area where the hole is by applying direct flame right to it, remove the flame and see if you can get some solder to melt but just barely. Keep heating, trying, heating trying.... as soon as it kinda melts but sticks... apply the flame and feed solder in and remove the flame immediately. You're not trying to get the whole thing to reflow, just applying enough heat to the solder to use it as "putty".

I see what you're using as the puller... I'd call that part the mandrel... which is the object that forms the inside of the flare. The "die" side of the pulling tool could also be called the "receiver". I know it's confusing because you also make the hole with a punch and die... If you're using the pipe reducer as your mandrel, what are you using as the cup shaped die on the other side of the pot wall?
 
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