In process Ph numbers and how to adjust

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maplemontbrew

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Here are the ph readings from last batch of Hefeweizen using:
#5 white wheat
#4 German Pilsner
#.25 Caramel 20
#.25 German munich
1 oz. Hallertau

My Ph readings at room temp. are as follows:
Starting water 7.45 Ph
Dough in 6
Mash 5.9
After sparge 6.25
After boil 6 Ph & OG 1.042

I am assuming I need to use lactic acid to get the Ph down in the mash and sparge water but have no idea how much or the process for adding it. Will the amount of lactic acid be different for the mash and the sparge?
 
Water pH doesn't matter much but was does matter is its alkalinity. Do you have that number? For your pH to go that high it must be appreciable. You will have to overcome it. One way to do that is to dribble acid (lactic is fine) into entire volume of brewing water until the pH reaches the desired mash pH (5.4 - 5.5). If you overshoot and add too much acid then just add more water until you get back up to the desired range. You may still need a bit of acid to overcome malt alkalinity. Best thing to do is make a mini test mash and scale the amount of acid you use to the fisrrs.

If you have to use a whole lot of acid to overcome water alkalinity then you should find another way to combat it such as dilution with RO, removal by boiling or removal by lime treatment
 
Water pH doesn't matter much but was does matter is its alkalinity. Do you have that number? For your pH to go that high it must be appreciable. You will have to overcome it. One way to do that is to dribble acid (lactic is fine) into entire volume of brewing water until the pH reaches the desired mash pH (5.4 - 5.5). If you overshoot and add too much acid then just add more water until you get back up to the desired range. You may still need a bit of acid to overcome malt alkalinity. Best thing to do is make a mini test mash and scale the amount of acid you use to the fisrrs.

If you have to use a whole lot of acid to overcome water alkalinity then you should find another way to combat it such as dilution with RO, removal by boiling or removal by lime treatment



Total alkalinity number is 110

Bicarbonate alkalinity 0148 (from water co. report)
 
I did not no I could treat all the hlt water before I started the mash. This should make things way easier for me. I realize the grain will change it some. But I am stoked on this new discovery :)
 
I use Bru'nWater spreadsheet to calculate water additions, including lactic for pH.
 
Enter the first chart below with your water pH and alkalinity. The 7.45 and 110 lines intersect between the 2 and 2.5 lines at about 2.3. This is your carbo per liter. Now look at the second chart and read off the charge at 7.45 ( about - 0.9 ) and at the mash pH you want - 5.4 gives - 0.1. The difference, 0.8, multiplied by the carbo, 0.8 * 2.3 = 1.84 is the amount of acid you need to add to each liter to get your water to pH 5.4. 1 L of lactic acid weighs 1206 grams and contains 1206/90.08 = 13.38 moles. Lactic acid is strong enough that at pH 5.4 it is almost completely dissociated thus it is 13.4 N and 1 mL yields 13.4 mEq protons. For 5 gallons, 19L, you need a total of 19*1.84 = 35 mEq and at 13.4 per mL thats 35/13.4 = 2.6 mL. That's all there is to it.

If you had a chart similar to the second you can do the same to calculate the amount of acid you need for the base malt. As you don't the best you can do is WAG that at about 35 mEq/pH-kg. Subtract the desired pH from the DI mash ph of the malt and multiply by 35 e.g. if the malt has a DI mash pH of 5.7 and you want to mash at 5.4 you will need about 35*(5.7 - 5.4) = 10.5 mEq/kg of malt. This is pretty rough and why we do test mashes and use pH meters.

CtAlk.jpg


CarboDist.jpg
 
Enter the first chart below with your water pH and alkalinity. The 7.45 and 110 lines intersect between the 2 and 2.5 lines at about 2.3. This is your carbo per liter. Now look at the second chart and read off the charge at 7.45 ( about - 0.9 ) and at the mash pH you want - 5.4 gives - 0.1. The difference, 0.8, multiplied by the carbo, 0.8 * 2.3 = 1.84 is the amount of acid you need to add to each liter to get your water to pH 5.4. 1 L of lactic acid weighs 1206 grams and contains 1206/90.08 = 13.38 moles. Lactic acid is strong enough that at pH 5.4 it is almost completely dissociated thus it is 13.4 N and 1 mL yields 13.4 mEq protons. For 5 gallons, 19L, you need a total of 19*1.84 = 35 mEq and at 13.4 per mL thats 35/13.4 = 2.6 mL. That's all there is to it.

If you had a chart similar to the second you can do the same to calculate the amount of acid you need for the base malt. As you don't the best you can do is WAG that at about 35 mEq/pH-kg. Subtract the desired pH from the DI mash ph of the malt and multiply by 35 e.g. if the malt has a DI mash pH of 5.7 and you want to mash at 5.4 you will need about 35*(5.7 - 5.4) = 10.5 mEq/kg of malt. This is pretty rough and why we do test mashes and use pH meters.


May need a few days to digest that but thanks for the help!
 
Enter the first chart below with your water pH and alkalinity. The 7.45 and 110 lines intersect between the 2 and 2.5 lines at about 2.3. This is your carbo per liter. Now look at the second chart and read off the charge at 7.45 ( about - 0.9 ) and at the mash pH you want - 5.4 gives - 0.1. The difference, 0.8, multiplied by the carbo, 0.8 * 2.3 = 1.84 is the amount of acid you need to add to each liter to get your water to pH 5.4. 1 L of lactic acid weighs 1206 grams and contains 1206/90.08 = 13.38 moles. Lactic acid is strong enough that at pH 5.4 it is almost completely dissociated thus it is 13.4 N and 1 mL yields 13.4 mEq protons. For 5 gallons, 19L, you need a total of 19*1.84 = 35 mEq and at 13.4 per mL thats 35/13.4 = 2.6 mL. That's all there is to it.



If you had a chart similar to the second you can do the same to calculate the amount of acid you need for the base malt. As you don't the best you can do is WAG that at about 35 mEq/pH-kg. Subtract the desired pH from the DI mash ph of the malt and multiply by 35 e.g. if the malt has a DI mash pH of 5.7 and you want to mash at 5.4 you will need about 35*(5.7 - 5.4) = 10.5 mEq/kg of malt. This is pretty rough and why we do test mashes and use pH meters.



If I treat all of my brew water with Lactic effectively lowering the Ph to 5.4, won't the mash Ph be well below the 5.4 I am looking for. My water starts at 7.45 and winds up being 5.9 - 6.1 during mash.
 
No. We can guess at what your pH would be, even though we don't know anything about the actual malts and wheat you are using other than their most general descriptions. The estimate I get is 5.8 which isn't too far off your 5.9 - 6 observation. Let's look at what it would take to get to pH 5.4. We discussed what you would have to do to get the water to pH 5.4. The numbers I gave were for 5 gal. Assuming you mash the grains you specified with 4 it would take 4/5 the 35 mEq I got in #6 i.e. right around 30 mEq (this from a calculation rather than eyeballing off the charts). It would take another 35 to get the wheat and 18 to get the pils to pH 5.4 (using the assumptions I did for those grains) and the dark malts, being present in such small amounts, would only contribute 1.9. So you have a proton deficit of 74.6 mEq WRT pH 5.4. WRT mash pH 5.5 the deficit is 56.5, WRT to 5.6 it is 39.3. And you would need those amounts of acid to get to those pH values. WRT pH 5.8 the deficit is 0 - that's the pH you would get if you added no acid.

The bottom line here is that you need as much acid for the water as you do for the grains. That's the consequence of brewing with high alkalinity water. Were you using RO water (effectively 0 alkalinity) you would only need 27 mEq of acid (about 2 mL) for the grain - none for the water.
 
Enter the first chart below with your water pH and alkalinity. The 7.45 and 110 lines intersect between the 2 and 2.5 lines at about 2.3. This is your carbo per liter. Now look at the second chart and read off the charge at 7.45 ( about - 0.9 ) and at the mash pH you want - 5.4 gives - 0.1. The difference, 0.8, multiplied by the carbo, 0.8 * 2.3 = 1.84 is the amount of acid you need to add to each liter to get your water to pH 5.4. 1 L of lactic acid weighs 1206 grams and contains 1206/90.08 = 13.38 moles. Lactic acid is strong enough that at pH 5.4 it is almost completely dissociated thus it is 13.4 N and 1 mL yields 13.4 mEq protons. For 5 gallons, 19L, you need a total of 19*1.84 = 35 mEq and at 13.4 per mL thats 35/13.4 = 2.6 mL. That's all there is to it.

If you had a chart similar to the second you can do the same to calculate the amount of acid you need for the base malt. As you don't the best you can do is WAG that at about 35 mEq/pH-kg. Subtract the desired pH from the DI mash ph of the malt and multiply by 35 e.g. if the malt has a DI mash pH of 5.7 and you want to mash at 5.4 you will need about 35*(5.7 - 5.4) = 10.5 mEq/kg of malt. This is pretty rough and why we do test mashes and use pH meters.


Ok so far five gallons I should add 2.6 mL?
 
The best thing to do is add the 2.6 mL of acid to about 100 mL of water and then add that 100 mL in convenient amounts to the 5 gallons while checking the pH (lots of stirring, obviously). You would then sneak up on the desired mash pH. If you overshoot then just add more water until you get back on target. If you don't have a pH meter, get one (but apparently you do).
 
The best thing to do is add the 2.6 mL of acid to about 100 mL of water and then add that 100 mL in convenient amounts to the 5 gallons while checking the pH (lots of stirring, obviously). You would then sneak up on the desired mash pH. If you overshoot then just add more water until you get back on target. If you don't have a pH meter, get one (but apparently you do).


Got it. Thanks for help!!
 
I am confused again.

Can I just fill up my HLT with all my brewing water , stick my ph meter in there, and then add acid till it is at 5.4 and then use that for my strike and batch sparge water?
 
Can I just fill up my HLT with all my brewing water , stick my ph meter in there, and then add acid till it is at 5.4 and then use that for my strike and batch sparge water?

Yes, you can do that but most people like to have an idea as to how much acid they will need before they start out so they send a sample off to the lab where the lab adds acid until pH 4.4 is reached. The amount used is the alkalinity and they report that to you. You don't want to go as far as 4.4 but only to 5.4 and so need to make an simple calculation or use the curves to determine how much acid you need to add for the total volume you are treating. You can add half of it, check pH, add half of what's left, check again and so on until you hit pH 5.4 or you can add it all and check and if your pH went lower than 4.4 add more water to bring it back up.
 
I am confused again.

Can I just fill up my HLT with all my brewing water , stick my ph meter in there, and then add acid till it is at 5.4 and then use that for my strike and batch sparge water?

Yes, you can. But most who have tried this blindly, found that they overshoot the acid addition. Because of the interaction of pH and alkalinity, the water pH barely changes during the early acid additions (small) because the water's alkalinity is being consumed. The pH drops like a rock when the alkalinity is gone.

Therefore, having a good idea of the proper acid amount is a safer way to perform acid additions.
 
You can see what Martin is talking about by looking at the second curve in #7. We found, for the conditions of the OP, that we needed to change charge per mmol from -0.9 to -0.1 i.e. that we have to add 0.8 mEq/mmol acid. If you do it as I suggested above you add half the acid (0.4) that brings you to -0.9 + 0.4 = -0.5 on the left axis. Adding half of what remains, (.2) brings you to -0.3, half of what remains then, 0.1, to -0.2, then to -.15. If you look at the pH's corresponding to those levels of charge you will see that the amount of pH change for a given acid increment is large near pH 8.4, decreases around ph 6.38 (where bicarbonate's buffering peaks) and then becomes large again as the pH gets into mash pH range. Using 1/2 the remaining acid at each step compensates for this and you are less likely to overshoot.

For those readers who are thinking 'You'll never use all the acid if you only take half at each step' I offer the following old chestnut about the engineer and the mathematician who are brought into a room with a curtain at the far end and distance markings on the floor. The curtain is withdrawn to reveal two lovely young ladies wearing nothing they didn't come into the world with. The gents are instructed that they may move towards the ladies in discrete steps each of which halves the remaining distance to them. The mathematician bursts into tears of frustration for he knows that while the series 1/2, 1/4, 1/8.... does converge it takes an infinite number of steps for it to do so. The engineer smiles broadly for he knows that he can get to 'working distance' with a small number of steps (10 will take him 99.9% of the distance).
 
So then I have a question about this...

The method described seems to deal with the buffering of the mash (grist) which has to be calculated or observed (test mash) to calculate the necessary acid/base addition, as well as titrating and diluting the total water bill to 5.4 pH. I assume the calculation of the grist acid addition (consider a negative value for alkaline requirement) is then added to acid required to A.) overcome the apparent alkalinity (carbonates and bicarbonates) and B.) dilute/acidify the total water volume to 5.4 pH (I assume at room temperatures as well).

It seems to me that we are adding unnecessary acid. Why acidify the sparge water portion to that extent as part of the whole water? If we acidify the whole volume to 5.4 and have the addition for the mash, then what happens when the volumes are divided for strike and sparge? It seems that the strike water will have a portion of the acid necessary to set the mash pH and the sparge will drive that pH further as it rinses the grains and ends up in the kettle.
 
So then I have a question about this...

The method described seems to deal with the buffering of the mash (grist) which has to be calculated or observed (test mash) to calculate the necessary acid/base addition, as well as titrating and diluting the total water bill to 5.4 pH.

What has been discussed in this thread is only the proton deficit (buffering) of the water.

I assume the calculation of the grist acid addition (consider a negative value for alkaline requirement) is then added to acid required to A.) overcome the apparent alkalinity (carbonates and bicarbonates) and B.) dilute/acidify the total water volume to 5.4 pH (I assume at room temperatures as well).

Yes, a separate determination for the proton deficit of the grist is made and that added (though it can be a negative number if dark malt acidity overwhelms base malt alkalinity). Note that this determination is made using distilled water 'test mashes' (titrations) so that the malt proton deficit is decoupled from that of the mash water. The proton deficit of DI water is insignificant compared to the proton deficits of malts.

It seems to me that we are adding unnecessary acid. Why acidify the sparge water portion to that extent as part of the whole water? If we acidify the whole volume to 5.4 and have the addition for the mash, then what happens when the volumes are divided for strike and sparge? It seems that the strike water will have a portion of the acid necessary to set the mash pH and the sparge will drive that pH further as it rinses the grains and ends up in the kettle.

Question is: what is the proton deficit of water that has been acidified to pH 5.4 with respect to a mash pH of 5.4. Answer: 0. OTOH if you do not acidify the sparge water it carries a proton deficit into the sparge and pulls the collected runoff pH up to higher than what it would be if you hadn't acidified the sparge water. Thus you are correct: more total acid added overall (in the entire brewing process) will result in lower wort pH than less overall acid added. But sparge water acidified to mash pH will not pull wort pH lower than mash pH when added to the mash during sparging.
 
Thanks AJ - head hurts a bit since the mantra here has always been alkalinity and not pH in water, and here we are using an arbitrary pH of a very complex chemical and biochemical series of reactions. I do want to make sure I understand.

Just to summarize: the suggestion is to neutralize the alkalinity of the source water through acid treatment, then add additional acid to reduce that pH (which should be low at that point) to the target mash pH (5.4 in this instance), as well as an amount equal to bring a DI test mash to the same pH - so that all things are equal (pH and proton deficit). At this point, the proton deficit of the water is equal to the proton deficit of the mash - and consequently, the same is true for the sparge water.

Are we ignoring hardness in this process? or is that negligible? Meaning calcium driving phosphate reactions... where calcium is likely a significant ion in the water.

Forgive the questions - trying to work through this conceptually.
 
Thanks AJ - head hurts a bit since the mantra here has always been alkalinity and not pH in water, and here we are using an arbitrary pH of a very complex chemical and biochemical series of reactions. I do want to make sure I understand.

The basic concept that when we look at water its pH isn't nearly as important as its alkalinity still holds for approximate work. The alkalinity number in a water report is the amount of acid it takes to get to end point pH (4.3, 4.4 or 4.5 for most labs). That is completely independent of pH. I can tell you the alkalinity without saying anything about the original sample pH. It is when you ask about how much acid it takes to get to a different pH, i.e. a mash pH, that I have to know the sample pH because I need to know how much total carbo is in the sample to do that.

Consider a water sample with alkalinity 100 and pH 9. Consulatation of the first curve in #7 shows that this water's carbo content is 1.8, Consultation of the second curve says that if we want to take pH 9 water with its charge of about -1.04 to pH 5.4 with its charge of -0.1 /mmol we need 0.94 mEq/mmol and with 1.8 mmol/L that would be 1.69 mEq/L.

Now consider water with alkalinity 100 and pH 6.5. The first chart shows carbo content of 3.5. But the second chart shows that the charge at pH 6.5 is -0.55 so that to get to pH 5.4 with charge -0.1 you only need an acid increment of 0.45/mmol which at 3.5 mmol/L amoints to 1.58 mEq/L. Thus for a given alkalinity there must be more carbo present at lower pH to support that alkalinity but at lower pH less charge difference must be made up for by acid. These two effects cancel by and large but not completely.

Just to summarize: the suggestion is to neutralize the alkalinity...
Remember that we cannot speak of alkalinity without specifying a reference pH. We wish to neutralize (bring to 0) the alkalinity of the source water to 0 with respect to mash pH. The alkalinity, with respect to the lab's titration end point will not have been zeroed. If we 0 WRT mash pH and send a sample to the lab they will send back a report showing the original report's alkalinity minus the alkalinity of the water with respect to mash pH.



...of the source water through acid treatment, then add additional acid to reduce that pH (which should be low at that point) to the target mash pH (5.4 in this instance),
If you have zeroed out alkalinity WRT mash pH then the water will be at mash pH. No further acid addition for the water will be necessary.

We wish to neutralize (bring to 0) the alkalinity of the source water to 0 with respect to mash pH. The alkalinity, with respect to the lab's titration end point will not have been zeroed. If we 0 WRT mash pH and send a sample to the lab they will send back a report showing the original report's alkalinity minus the alkalinity of the water with respect to mash pH.



..as well as an amount equal to bring a DI test mash to the same pH
Additional acid will be needed in the mash in order to 'neutralize' (bring to 0) the alkalinity of the base malt with respect to mash pH. Some of this acid may come from the acidity, with respect to mash pH, of high-kilned malts.

- so that all things are equal (pH and proton deficit). At this point, the proton deficit of the water is equal to the proton deficit of the mash
The sum of the proton deficits of each of the malts and the water is 0. The protons absorbed by the water and base malts just equal the protons given off by malt acids (and any we added).
- and consequently, the same is true for the sparge water.
As it takes 0 acid to change the pH of water which has been adjusted to mash pH to mash pH its proton deficit is 0. Adding as much of it as desired to mash at that same pH will not change the pH of the mash.

Are we ignoring hardness in this process? or is that negligible? Meaning calcium driving phosphate reactions... where calcium is likely a significant ion in the water.

In this thread we haven't talked about it but it is definitely involved. The definition of residual alkalinity makes it clear that 3.5 mEq of calcium or 7 mEq of magnesium release 1 mEq of acid. How true that is in the universe of brewing situations I don't know but until I do some experiments to check that out that's what I am using for calculations.
 
Yes, you can. But most who have tried this blindly, found that they overshoot the acid addition. Because of the interaction of pH and alkalinity, the water pH barely changes during the early acid additions (small) because the water's alkalinity is being consumed. The pH drops like a rock when the alkalinity is gone.



Therefore, having a good idea of the proper acid amount is a safer way to perform acid additions.


Is it best then that you wait a while, say 15 minutes or so, to test ph after the acid addition?
 
Is it best then that you wait a while, say 15 minutes or so, to test ph after the acid addition?

Well, that might help. But that is a long time to allow the pH to be off target.

My experience is that we add a little acid and check pH, and again and again. Since we are concerned about overshooting the acid addition, the additions were small and the pH did not shift very much due to the alkalinity effect. Then you increase the addition amount after a couple of trys and end up overshooting anyhow.

Waiting and measuring is OK when you have a decent idea of the total acid amount needed and you are then just fine tuning with a bit more. But the hunt and peck method can be a frustrating approach.

Math and science are nice tools most of the time.
 
I think we are confusing water and mash. When treating just the water the reaction should be complete and a pH meter reading settled in a couple of minutes. In a mash it is a different matter and you may have to wait some time before the effects of an acid addition are seen.
 
Have you tried any other spreadsheets with which to compare Bru'nWater. I looked at this and sounds pretty good.

Bru'n is the best I've used or messed with. All the others lack something. It may take a day to get familiar with it, but everything is there.

I used Martin calculations on his site that I originally overlooked and he was nice enough to point out regarding boiling water to reduce HCO3 and Ca. I just used his sheet and did a 'save as' for tap water and boiled tap water.

For each new style you do, you can play with both files, get the numbers right, then do another 'save as' for something like 'style x tap water boiled', etc.

You really can't beat his sheet.
 
I think we are confusing water and mash. When treating just the water the reaction should be complete and a pH meter reading settled in a couple of minutes. In a mash it is a different matter and you may have to wait some time before the effects of an acid addition are seen.

I am planning to do a 1/8 scale min mash where I would bring my water to the proper Ph using lactic acid then add the scaled down grain bill to measure its effect on the base water Ph. Does that sound like a pretty good process?
 
If you are planning to go below the proper pH, as the malt bill will tend to add acid, then yes. You may then need to add alkalinity, since you cannot take back the acid addition, to counter the net lower mash pH. If you could estimate the acid contribution of the grist (see Bru'n Water or AJ's spreadsheet), then you could calculate backwards to a strike water pH (assuming alkalinity has been removed). So if the grist contribution is equal to X meq/L, and the acid required to lower the liquor to 5.4 is Y - then you would titrate your liquor to Y-X and minimize the need to add alkalinity that would otherwise not be needed. I am happy to be corrected, but this seems logical to me.

A test mash, at least for me, serves to test my recipe, mineral additions, and track mash pH. That said - it is VERY hard to get dry milligram measurements correct, at least liquid acid can be added with CC scaled syringes. Consider concentrated solutions for gypsum and calcium chloride. I generally only make a single adjustment (if required) with a pre-calculated amount of acid or base in a test mash. This gives me excellent data on what will happen at scale in my brew house... and I can make any adjustments necessary before - while verifying pH during the mash. Added bonus - boil the test mash wort for a starter!

Acidifying the strike liquor to the target mash pH seems confusing (to me) as you will most likely overshoot the mash pH when introducing the liquor to the malt phosphates (usually a net acid scenario), especially with crystal or dark roasts. Maybe if you were simply removing alkalinity - easier to calc meq/L acid to counter meq/L bicarbonate for example... but then why not traditional slaking, boil/decant and/or dilution with RO or DI?
 
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