Quick question about a mash-tun

So I'm debating if i should just go with the converted large cooler mash-tun or just fork out the cash for a large mash-tun pot.

Well it's tough to add heat to a plastic cooler!

Shop around and try to find a used keg.

cheers

What size batches do you do?

Is that an acronym yet? WSBDYD?

well just for practice i've been doing 5 gallon batches, which i want to expand into 20 gallon batches once i hammer down the recipes, so i would need a 10 gallon mash-tun, then use the steam kettle at work for the boiling process.

A 10 gallon mash tun will not work for a 20 gallon batch of all grain beer. I have a 15.5 gallon mash tun and can't stretch more than about 18 gallon batches at an OG of 1.050. Your mas tun would over floweth with grain and water. This also requires a boil kettle of at least 25 gallons.

sickbrew said:

Well it's tough to add heat to a plastic cooler!

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Really? I wish you woulda told me that years ago, because I've been adding heat to my cooler mash tuns without a problem.

:rockin:

A big cooler works great. Infusions or decoctions add heat. You can brew anything with just a single infusion.

I've done many decoctions and they are bit more involved (tougher) than hitting the mash tun with some flame.

I think it's exactly like hitting it with a small flame, but with scooping out the desired portions and boiling. You can't do that in any single mash tun.

I use both a cooler mash tun (my "standard") and a direct-fired mash tun for step mashes. Each has their advantages and disadvantages. Generally, direct-fired tuns are more expensive to purchase and maybe a touch more expensive to operate (but that should be insignificant), but give you more flexibility (such as doing a multiple rest mash without decocting).

You can do multi-steps with infusions too. Start thin and add water. Not very difficult it just takes a bit a arithmetic (or a thermometer.)

Coolers keep temp better, that's their advantage.

Malticulous said:

You can do multi-steps with infusions too. Start thin and add water. Not very difficult it just takes a bit a arithmetic (or a thermometer.)

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The problem is that you need to add a lot of volume to bring the wort up to the dextrin rest or mashout if you are doing a phytase or protein rest first, which means longer conversion times and requires a larger mash tun. It can be done in most cases, but it can also be a bit of a pain.

You say so. I haven''t noticed. (And I brew an awful lot.)

Malticulous said:

You say so. I haven''t noticed. (And I brew an awful lot.)

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Well, let's say I want to brew a Weizen with 1.056 OG at 70% efficiency, starting with a ferulic acid rest at 111 degrees and ending at the dextrin rest at 158 degrees (standard weizen procedure). I have a 5 gallon mash tun. The grain bill is 10.8 lbs.

Even when pre-heating the mash tun, the only way I get get this to work without decocting is by starting with a mash thickness of 0.7 qts/lb, which is extremely low.

70%--your not talking to me.

For 5.5 gallons of 1.056 hefe I'd use 9 lbs of malt. Strike with 18 qts and a single sparge with 14 qts for a boil of 90 minutes. Protein rests have made my weizens too clear. It's only useful for malts that don't clear well when making beers that should be clear.

Well I've decided to go with a large cambro, a grain bag and a sous vide machine. Then I'll use a steam kettle to sparge in and also for my boil tank.