Oster Fridge Nightmare

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Jif

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
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Location
St. Louis
Yesterday I began fooling around with getting a fan box running in my Oster kegerator (which I STILL haven't been able to get anything tapped from) to push air up to the tower. After getting it working perfectly, on full cooling settings it's holding a chilly sixty degrees. Did I ruin the thermostat? Am I stuck with getting an external temperature controller, and would that even work for my fridge? This whole situation is rather disconcerting.

UPDATE: Turning the thermostat seems ot have no effect upon temperature. The fan is still getting powered, so there's power running, and the compressor is still making noise. unsure as to what this all means, and whether or not an external thermostat would help.
 
Did it get down to fridge temps before installing the fan? Did you make any other changes? If you've moved it did you lay it on it's side or keep it upright?
 
It got down to fridge temps even AFTER installing the fan. I had it running on about 3-4 (out of 7) on the thermostat and it was running in the mid to high forties. I cranked it up to 7 and left it for awhile, just to see how cold it would get, and now no matter where I put it on the dial, it wont go below 60. Not sure what could've happened in that meantime there.

I moved it before the fan was installed, and it did have to sit on its side in the back of my sedan. When I got it to the location where I worked it on (fridge stays down at college, brought it back up to St. Louis to work on it with my dad) it worked flawlessly.

Also, after some reading on temp controllers, it seems like one probably won't fix my problem. Am I correct in the understanding that you just crank the fridge on max and all they do is alter the power running in to the box? If so, that won't help me, as mine running on max seems to do a whole lot of nothing.
 
I have not used this sort of fridge before but you may want to try turning it off for a day, it may have frosted up some coils such that it won't properly refrigerate anymore. It can then defrost and you'll be back to you normal cooling. I had my full size fridge do this one time when the door didn't seal well.
 
+1 on the unplug it and let it thaw. A temp controller will work as long as your compressor is still good. It has it's own temp sensor, and will turn the compressor on/off based on it's reading, totally overriding the factory thermostat.
 
.......A temp controller will work as long as your compressor is still good. It has it's own temp sensor, and will turn the compressor on/off based on it's reading, totally overriding the factory thermostat.

Unfortunately, I don't think it will work in his case. The external controller would keep power on trying to get it down to set temp. However, if the internal t-stat is choking, it will kick off the compressor before the temp gets down to what he wants...... Just like having it plugged into the wall receptacle....
Is that explanation as clear as mud?
 
I thought one of the main features of an external controller was that it was based on IT'S temp probe, not the freezer/fridge... If your statement is true, I can still see them working on keezers, but what about all of them I've seen used for lagering? I am probably just not well versed, and you are correct; especially since I've never looked into them... My misconception?
 
Based on what I've researched, it doesn't directly override the thermostat. The existing fridge is set on max and it plugs in to the thermostat, and all the temp controller does is alter the power coming in to the fridge to make it fit with the thermometer that is attached to the temp controller. Hence, won't work in my situation, where setting the original fridge thermostat to max wouldn't result in any cooling.
 
Based on what I've researched, it doesn't directly override the thermostat. The existing fridge is set on max and it plugs in to the thermostat, and all the temp controller does is alter the power coming in to the fridge to make it fit with the thermometer that is attached to the temp controller. Hence, won't work in my situation, where setting the original fridge thermostat to max wouldn't result in any cooling.
What he said. They way the external thermostat works is that it can control the temperature so that it stays NO LOWER than the refrigerator will cool on its maximum setting. It does this by turning the power to the fridge off and on as the internal temp goes below and above the temperature you set. (Not sure if I was real clear here, but I gave it a shot.)
 
I just hooked up an external thermostat to my fridge, but the way I did it was by taking the factory thermostat out, and hooking the 2 wires out of that thermostat up to the external. Worked like a charm.
 
I just hooked up an external thermostat to my fridge, but the way I did it was by taking the factory thermostat out, and hooking the 2 wires out of that thermostat up to the external. Worked like a charm.

So you were literally able to completely bypass the original thermostat? This is very intriguing to me. It's unplugged for the night, I'm hoping when I turn it on in the morning that it's functional again.
 
If your compressor is 120V then you should be able to pull the internal thermostat out of the loop and put in one of these with little or no problems.

But you need to know if the compressor is running at all, and if it is are the evaporator coils getting cold?


Ant
 
Unplugged it for the night, plugged it back in this morning. After 3 hours, still running @ 60F. :(

The compressor still appears to be running, as it's warm. I'll check and see if I can feel the evaporator cooling lines. I assume that would just be feeling if the sides are cold?

My dad called a buddy of his who owns a refrigeration business, and the prognosis wasn't good. He says with these compact fridges, there's very little you can do, as they're pretty much closed systems. Crossing my fingers!
 
If the compressor continues to run but is not cooling, then you can pretty much rule out the thermostat. Sounds like you are low on refrigerant. Someone should be able to recharge it I would think.
 
If the compressor continues to run but is not cooling, then you can pretty much rule out the thermostat. Sounds like you are low on refrigerant. Someone should be able to recharge it I would think.

That's exactly what my dad's fridge buddy said, only he also said that you can't add freon to mini fridges, as they're closed systems. This is a pain, as the fridge is only a month old.

Are those Sanyo's people thought so highly of still around? I'm unaware as to how I could've caused this problem myself after such a short time.
 
Sounds to me like you got a faulty unit. I would take it back under the 1-year warranty...

With a hole drilled in the top and a moved thermostat? I feel like they'd be somewhat hesitant to take it back. Looks like I'm buying a new fridge.
 
With a hole drilled in the top and a moved thermostat? I feel like they'd be somewhat hesitant to take it back. Looks like I'm buying a new fridge.

OOPS, Sorry. I missed that part. But you are probably correct..... unless you could convince them that the delivery guys did it while trying to mount it in your cabinet. :D
 
I have a feeling that'll be a bit of a tough sell...

There's a Danby @ Sam's that looks somewhat intriguing, and people here seem to have been able to make it in to a two cornie deal. I got the Oster at Best Buy when I still had my discount for around $140, but I'm not about to pay $210 for a fridge that failed that quickly.
 
I think the moral of this story for folks converting new mini fridges, is to first plug them in and see if they will chill your beer to adequate temp before drilling any holes or moving wires.

Use picnic taps for a week or so and see how it works. If not, you can still return it.
 
I was using the fridge for about two weeks for just chilling beer before all of this happens, but that doesn't make your advice any less important, EdWort!
 
When you put the fan in did you splice into existing wires or run new ones for the fan? The easiest way to put the fan in would be to leave the fridge as is. Then cut the tip off of a cell phone charger. Wire that to a $3 computer fan, and instant fan.

Hope that helps.
 
Did you drill any holes in the side of the fridge for co2 lines or to mount the thermostat? I have been using the Oster for a while with no problems until I "got smart" and tried to put the co2 lines thru the side. then heart the infamous pssssssst. then off to best buy to get a new fridge.
 
I put in a oversized tube up the tower and had issues with cooling so I turned it off and the temps settled to ~38 with my Oster. You've disconnected (or turned off) the fan blowing air up the tower right?
 
Did you drill any holes in the side of the fridge for co2 lines or to mount the thermostat? I have been using the Oster for a while with no problems until I "got smart" and tried to put the co2 lines thru the side. then heart the infamous pssssssst. then off to best buy to get a new fridge.

I just ran a line right through the drain hole and around to avoid exactly that problem. At one point after turning the fridge off (right before it stopped working) I heard a trickling noise. Not like "pssssst" release of pressure noise, but like a light waterfall. My current theory is maybe when I moved up the thermostat and used a self tapping screw on the inner wall, maybe I forced a really small leak, and that was coolant dripping down the sides.

I put in a oversized tube up the tower and had issues with cooling so I turned it off and the temps settled to ~38 with my Oster. You've disconnected (or turned off) the fan blowing air up the tower right?

How big was your tube? I'm using 1 3/4" bilge pump hosing. I'll give it a shot with removing it, but given the fact that the compressor is running and the fridge is at 60F, I'm thinking there's probably no more coolant in the lines.
 
From memory it was an 1 1/4" clear tube and I had issues keeping the fridge cold. I turned the fan off and problems went away. I think I'm using a 1/2" now. I figured it was a circulation issue. Before tossing the fridge it's worth just turning the fan off.

I also completely turned mine off and heard water pouring, like you described and after getting rid of the large tube and letting it sit overnight and plugging it back in everything was fine. Good luck!
 
Well, I know what I'm going to try. I'll update as soon as I find out what happens.
 
Im an a/c tech and started out in refrigeration.I picked up a mini fridge last week that was being thrown away that had a pin hole in the evaporator.I fixed it and now my beer is cold.When it comes to mini fridges It costs more in labor for someone to fix it than it does to buy a new one.
 
I was floored, rewiring the fridge to stock wiring fixed everything, it's running 37F with no issues! I just ran fan power out to plug in separately. Thanks to all who helped! I'll throw pics on the kegerator thread soon.
 
The issue I am having with my oster is similar but different. Last night when I got the fridge home I plugged it in and put a 6 of already chilled beer in it. I also put a probe in it to track the temps. It started out in the 50s and moved down at maybe a degree an hour to 38. Today I put another 6 pack in and it took about 8 hours to get back to 38. For a six pack!

The thing is the compressor almost never ran during that time and when it did come on it only ran for a minute or two. I feel like the fridge is perfectly but it has a lazy thermostat.

I really like the idea of bypassing the thermostat but is a $59 item my only option here?

Seems like there should be a middle ground option that I just simply replace the other thermo with.
 
I thought one of the main features of an external controller was that it was based on IT'S temp probe, not the freezer/fridge... If your statement is true, I can still see them working on keezers, but what about all of them I've seen used for lagering? I am probably just not well versed, and you are correct; especially since I've never looked into them... My misconception?

The misconception here is that the external setting is just what the fridge does. Not true. YOu can insert an external thermostat in the circuit and then set the fridges thermostat to 0 degrees. Then, if you set the external at 38 it will then cut off power to the fridge.

But if your fridge thermo is set for 60 and you set the external to 38 then the external thermostat is never called into play.

I think the biggest problem here is that Oster has installed terrible cheap aas thermostats that have huge dead zones. And the best bet is to just excise them and replace with a better working thermostat. I wants one that kicks my compressor more often and tries to keep closer to a ser temp. I don't want my one cold keg to warm up everytime I replace the kicked keg.
 
If your compressor is 120V then you should be able to pull the internal thermostat out of the loop and put in one of these with little or no problems.


Ant

I see how this will work and it will stand as my backpocket solution if I can't find a cheap but better alternative thermostat to install directly inline where the old used to be.
 
If you end up installing an external thermostat, let me know how it works. Mine's not as slow as yours, but slow enough that I wouldn't mind the extra level of control (supposing it works)
 
I was floored, rewiring the fridge to stock wiring fixed everything, it's running 37F with no issues! I just ran fan power out to plug in separately. Thanks to all who helped! I'll throw pics on the kegerator thread soon.

That's awesome. You still running the large diam tube up the tower?
 
Yup! Seemed like the 120V fan I had wired to it was eating up too much of the circuit, because now I'm powering it externally and it's working perfectly!
 
Jif, that is very interesting. I do not think it had to do with current draw though. More than likely there may have been some line noise injected by the fan that was messing stuff up, but I would have to see the schems on where you pulled power for the fan.

Ant
 
If you're familiar with the fridge, all I did is pull the door switch out of circuit and yank the black line that went in to it for 110v unswitched, connecting back in circuit with the white wire that's usually attached to the lightbulb. After the problems with it, I just hooked the light and all of the regular wiring back up, then ran power for the fan to a separate plug down the drain next to where I have my CO2 line running. I'll try and snap some pics in the next few days.
 
Oster say no more if you look around i have seen very few good things mentioned about that brand.... Lota of problem with them all the way down to just kickin the bucket after a month or 2 of use to being extremly noisy. ect..
 
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