Sacdan
Well-Known Member
I don't use tape. If you don't want to use tape (it can leave glue behind), why not use a log piece of velcro to go all the way around the vessel?
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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bootin-gluten
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Just thought I'd post a pic of my completed build. The stock thermocouple unfortunately wasn't the same type that the controller was expecting so I used the one supplied with the controller.
I decided to build a box out of some scrap acrylic because I wanted to minimize the cost of the build (every $5 counts!). Stripped an extra computer power cord for the wire so the only things I had to buy were the controller, an outlet and a small terminal block.
Thanks for the help to those who answered my questions!
I decided to build a box out of some scrap acrylic because I wanted to minimize the cost of the build (every $5 counts!). Stripped an extra computer power cord for the wire so the only things I had to buy were the controller, an outlet and a small terminal block.
Thanks for the help to those who answered my questions!
learningmore
Active Member
Does anyone have success purchasing from the ebay seller Metapark? They seem to have the lowest priced items.
Here is metapark's store. I think I am going to buy from them (they are about $9 less than quality link and globalconn's stores.
The image is what we want- the 4 buttons on the front.
Here is metapark's store. I think I am going to buy from them (they are about $9 less than quality link and globalconn's stores.
The image is what we want- the 4 buttons on the front.
if you plan on using 220V with it then its a great deal
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Digital-Tem...ltDomain_0&hash=item5643631c8d#ht_4193wt_1145
-=Jason=-
Just won an auction for $14.90. Actually I'm pretty sure the seller ended the auction because I thought there was still a couple days left. Anyways, guess I better start getting the other supplies together. I just wish there wasn't so many flakes on craigslist. I have been trying to buy a chest freezer for a couple months.
Hermit
fuddle
I started thinking of it as Craig's Liars. Unbelievable the stuff I ran into. Freezers half the length listed. People unwilling to have them plugged in and running so I could see if the worked......
I just finished up my temp controller build. Opted for cooling only with a fan to KISS. Only fancy option I decided to install was a USB plug in for the thermistor, mostly because I wanted to see if I actually could. I used the money I saved from this build to become a paying member too! WOOT!
I'm planning on doing this in the long run. Right now I have it between some insulation and the carboy.
DawgFather... did your USB idea word according to plan, does it accurately read temperature? I LOVE for a longer probe than the stock one supplied.
-=Jason=-
Has anyone tried this temp probe in a standard thermowell?
I have read through most of the posts in here and ordered one of these off the flea bay. But when I contacted the seller asking for the 110V model, the broken english responce wasn't good. IF I end up with the 220V version, is there any use for it? I am no wiring expert, but can manage something on the simpler side, and I don't want to put more cash into it, as I can get the right one for sure for under 25 bucks, which I am going to do just in case.
Yeah the idea worked but there were some drawbacks. The receptacle on a USB has tabs around the outside that allow the plug to have slight tension when inserting it or removing it. I used JB weld on the inside of the box to securely mount the receptacle and this prevented the tabs from moving enough so the fit on the plug is extremely tight. It still works very well, but there may be better ways of mounting it...and there is no way it will vibrate loose or anything like that. I also took apart a USB to PS2 connector to get the receptacle and if I had to do it over again, I would think the best option would be to cut a USB extension cord or to at least use the wires that connected the USB receptacle to the PS2 plug (I cut them off and it made for some tight wiring). When I do it over again, I think I will cut up a USB extension cord and figure out how to mount it to the box without putting any glue on any metal parts. If you want pics of the process, let me know and I can get some for you.
I plan on going to Target today and getting a freezer gel pack and putting the probe inside a White Labs vial. I thought about going the thermowell route with the removable probe I have, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to sanitize it properly.
mikeysab
Well-Known Member
The way i understood it to work was that the seller determines the voltage of the controller by your shippingg address, unless you ask for a different one. So if your address is in the US, youll get a 110V controller
That is what I am hoping for, but the email that they sent back seemed to me that I am getting the 220. Fingers crossed that I get the right one, but I just ordered another that made sure it will be 110.
camiller
Well-Known Member
What you SHOULD understand is that SOME sellers (of which there are several) determine the voltage of the controller by your shipping COUNTRY unless you ask otherwise. It is well documented in this thread that some sellers are only shipping 220v.
It works wonderfully inside this
http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html
The end of the probe is .25". The diameter of this tube is .29". It slides to the bottom with no effort.
I wonder if this thermowell will work:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/stopper-thermowell.html
learningmore
Active Member
Well I guess I have a 220v on the way then.
I did find another that does ship the one that works for your address. Now I have to find a use for a 220v temp controller.
I did find another that does ship the one that works for your address. Now I have to find a use for a 220v temp controller.
KUbrew
Well-Known Member
I just got my unit in the mail and want to get it wired up today. I want to use this diagram and just wire my fridge directly and skip having the outlets.
I don't have any electrical experience, my question is where does the ground from the fridge go? I'm assuming the hot goes to the wire nut above 'cooling' on the diagram and the neutral goes to the wire nut that goes to the power. Is that right?
I don't have any electrical experience, my question is where does the ground from the fridge go? I'm assuming the hot goes to the wire nut above 'cooling' on the diagram and the neutral goes to the wire nut that goes to the power. Is that right?
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
I can confirm ebay seller Metapark sells only 220v controllers.
Double confirm, I ordered one then sent them a message asking if they could either send me a 110v or cancel the order and they cancelled... so good service at least!
By directly wire up your fridge to avoid having the outlet, do you mean you want to cut the power plug for the fridge off, and then wire it directly into the contoller? Or are you trying to wire the controller into the existing control/thermostat circuit of the fridge?
Regarding not using an outlet, why would you? They cost $1.99 or less at home centers, and you would be able to use the fridge or controller individually without rewiring if either quit working.
If you are attempting to wire the controller into the existing fridge controller/thermostat circuit, you might want to spend a little time reading up on basic electric wiring first. Actually, it would be a good idea either way.
Also, why did you choose that schematic? There are simpler ones, unless you want/need the relay for the fan control circuit. Also, the pinouts for the relay are not same for every radio shack relay.
KUbrew
Well-Known Member
I am wanting to just cut the plug off the fridge and wire it directly to the controller. The fridge is never going to be used for anything but this until the day it dies and I've got a fan I took off an old space heater that I can also wire directly easily. Plus I don't have to mess with cutting more holes for the outlets.
I like that schematic because I'd like the fan to run with the heat and the cooling. I believe I have the relay wiring figured out but I just wanted to double check the fridge wiring with someone who knows more than me.
Thanks
Your choice on not using an outlet. You can always add one later. It can come in handy for debugging.
I believe that schematic, or some revision of it, was not correct. The pinouts were wrong for the model of relay received.
If you read the posts related to that schematic, and it was approved, it should be fine. For the ground, you will need to pass that through to the fridge. You can either leave the ground uncut in the original cord, or cut the cord and wire nut it back together inside the controller box, along with the heater ground if it needs one.
I have a question that I am sure that one of the electrically gifted here can solve. I want to build a separate box with a relay in it to power a 12.5 amp heat stick. Here is what I want to do. Have this box with a 6' coming out of it and an GFI outlet mounted to it. The power in side would be plugged into the heat outlet of my temp box. It would activate the relay and give 15 amps to the outlet to supply my heatstick.
So, can someone give me a schematic for this including what relay to buy? Do I need to provide ventilation for the relay?
Thanks in advance!
So, can someone give me a schematic for this including what relay to buy? Do I need to provide ventilation for the relay?
Thanks in advance!
learningmore
Active Member
Seller metapark is refunding me my money instead of making me ship it back. Good for metapark.
I have about 20 6ft AC Power Cords I'm happy to give away if anyone would like one for the cost of shipping. Email me (charles at meandyouis.us) or txt me two oh eight 779-0328.
I have about 20 6ft AC Power Cords I'm happy to give away if anyone would like one for the cost of shipping. Email me (charles at meandyouis.us) or txt me two oh eight 779-0328.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Think these are rated at 10 amps, don't think you want to control a heatstick.
I think you forgot the first question(s) which can only be-
Is this controller suitable for controlling my HLT, MLT, RIMS, HERMS, BK?
Is it a good idea to use a ~1500 watt heat stick as the heat source for my keezer?
The answer to either one is no.
That is why I want to use a relay so I can control more amps
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Missed that part, then you could, but these are on/off, where a 34 dollar auber pid is a fuzzy logic controller will provide better temp control. For the extra few dollars, the auber control is far superior, but with a relay, these would work.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Oh, I would suggest a ssr and a mechanical relay for safty reasons
For what use? (besides the heat stick part)
See my earlier post, and mildoggy's. This is not a suitable controller heat stick applications, even with a secondary relay. Especially when, for close to the same money, there are controllers with much more capability/functionality that are suitable.
Thanks for the info, I was wanting to use the heatstick to maintain my water temp in a HLT after bringing up to temp on a burning. I know a pid would be much better. I was asking about the aquarium one because I already have it for fermentation control. I did not know if it would work for this with an external relay, but it sounds like it will not work well.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I do agree with the fact that if you are buying either this or a PID that the PID would be the smarter choice (as both would need a seperate SSR to control the element). But if you are repurposing the Ebay controller for a brewday what makes this not suitable? The probe can handle boiling (well 100 deg C at least). Using the Ebay unit for the mash/strike/sparge water control and then either no control, or a simple PWM control using the same SSR, for the boil.
I don't see the on/off control as a problem, do you really think you will get a huge overshoot with this type of control and is it something that stirring the water every so often will not fix?
The way I was thinking of setting it up is I have a 3 heat element (2x 2000W 240V in one fitting) I was thinking of using the controller, with no extra relay as 2000/240 = 8.3 amps, to control one element and the connect the second one with no control. Get the water to close to strike temp (maybe 10 deg C off) and then just switch off the second element and let the single element get to the set temp. Then for the boil I would get things going with 2 elements connected with no control and then keep the boil going with just 1 (or 2 if I want to boil down heaps).
If you know what you are doing, there are no real issues as you would know the trade-offs, safety concerns, control issues, etc. I doubt the temp tolerance/longevity of the probe, especially to water intrusion, at boiling temps. There are ways around that, though.
If you recall, the OP asked for a schematic, parts list, and what ever else he needs to make sure his heat stick system works right. He did not state his intended use. He obviously does not (currently) have enough knowledge to accomplish this, or he would not need to ask for a schematic to wire up a relay.
Some users simply don't know what options are out there. Others do, but want to save money and dual-use items. Had the OP stated that he understands all the issues with using this controller for heat stick control, and had specific questions on how best to mitigate them, that may get better responses.
