First timer. How much DME?

Today is my 1st attempt at homebrewing. I've read books, web sites, etc... and thought I was ready to go. Haven't even opened the containers and I'm stumped.

I'm making an Imperial Pale Ale. The Homebrew store owner thankfully talked me out of attempting an IPA (with the added hops, etc...) for my first batch. I've got a 4 lb. can of LME, and a 3 lb. bag of Munton's Extra Light DME. Should I use the entire bag, or only 2.2 lbs. as the directions that accompany the LME say. I'm guessing that the directions are probably useless. What effect would more vs. less DME have on the taste?

One more question from this newbie - To proof or not to proof my yeast. One expert says yes, the other no. I realize that proofing is an opportunity to determine the viability of the yeast, but otherwise, is there a good reason to proof?

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to filling my house with the aroma of homebrew.

As for the amount of Malt we need to know how strong you want it and how big a batch are you doing?
By the way is the LME prehopped?
The only difference between LME and DME is usually the colour and the amount of fermentables per lbs.


Proofing yeast does a few things.

It tells you it's viable so if anything happens you know it's not the fault of duff yeast. It'll also increase the yeast count on pitching. Not as much as a full starter but it does. It also means the yeast is on a head start by the time you pitch.

The way I do it is. First thing on brew day I boil my kettle and poor a little boiling water in a glass. Swill it and poor away to help clean sanitise the glass. I poor that away and put in more boiled water along with a teaspoon if sugar or malt. I dissolve it and cover with saran wrap. I then go do something else and let the water cool to room temp. I then pitch the yeast in, recover and leave in a worm place until I'm ready for it.

I have brilliant results doing it that way.

orfy said:

As for the amount of Malt we need to know how strong you want it and how big a batch are you doing?
By the way is the LME prehopped?

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I'm making a 5 gallon batch. Would 3 lbs of DME be too much?

Yes the LME is prehopped.

Thank you!

The addition of more DME will raise your Starting Gravity. I would not hurt anything to add it. It raises SG from 1.048 to 1.056. Do you have the prehopped can of extract? If you have one of the 6 gram packets of dry yeast it would not be a bad idea to add another one either. Describe how you are going to brew this and maybe there is some additional advice we could impart.

Blender said:

Describe how you are going to brew this and maybe there is some additional advice we could impart.

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Good idea. Here's what I plan on doing:

Ingredients:

4# can of Ironmaster Imperial Pale Ale LME (prehopped)
3# bag of Munton's Extra Light DME
1 pkg yeast (it is in a 2 1/2" x 3" foil package, stamped "YDB")

I will heat 2 gallons water. At about 150 degrees F, add and dissolve the dry and liquid extract, then boil for 20 minutes. During the last 10 minutes of the boil, add Irish moss. I'll transfer to my fermenting bucket, add about 3 gallons cold water and then submerge bucket in an ice bath I'll have prepared. At around 76 degrees, I'll pitch the yeast (I'll either rehydrate it or proof it as per Orfy's recommendation) and stir until foamy (is this correct?). I'll attach lid with airlock.

When fermentation ceases, I'll transfer to another bucket for secondary fermentation. After 5-7 days, I'll prime and bottle. Of course I will take great precautions to keep everything sanitized and clean.

Have I forgotten anything? Advice?

Thanks again.

A few things.
I wouldn't boil the LME or at least not for more than a minute. You'll loose any hop aroma it had.
The yeast will generate it's own foam, that's how you know it's working. Just sprinkle over the top. No need to use two packs of dry for a 5 gallon batch. The 150f temperature has no significance for extract. Just heat it and add the DME then boil for 5-10 minutes, careful it doesn't clump or scorch. Add the LME at the end to dissolve.

It should ferment in 5 days or so and an extra 5-7 days in secondary isn't really long enough. (read about the 1-2-3 method) The longer the better, you'll be rewarded)

Do you have a hydrometer? How will you know when fermentation is complete? Just because it's finished doesn't mean it's complete?

Stir until foamy for the finished wort is to aerate it.

orfy said:

A few things.
I wouldn't boil the LME or at least not for more than a minute. You'll loose any hop aroma it had.
The yeast will generate it's own foam, that's how you know it's working. Just sprinkle over the top. No need to use two packs of dry for a 5 gallon batch. The 150f temperature has no significance for extract. Just heat it and add the DME then boil for 5-10 minutes, careful it doesn't clump or scorch. Add the LME at the end to dissolve.

It should ferment in 5 days or so and an extra 5-7 days in secondary isn't really long enough. (read about the 1-2-3 method) The longer the better, you'll be rewarded)

Do you have a hydrometer? How will you know when fermentation is complete? Just because it's finished doesn't mean it's complete?

Stir until foamy for the finished wort is to aerate it.

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OK. I'd never heard of not boiling the LME. I definitely do NOT want to lose any hoppiness. Regarding the fermentation - I do have a hydrometer and will know when fermentation is complete when SG stops decreasing and stabilizes, correct?

When you say "sprinkle over the top", do you mean the dry yeast or the proofed yeast?

Thank you.

If I were you, I'd pitch 11 grams or so of dry yeast on top of the cooled wort for 5 gallons of beer. Also when cooling your wort, cool the hot wort before adding any cold makeup water. That way will see your wort cool faster due to greater difference in tempertures between the wort and your cooling medium.

Before any bottling, make sure your brew is finished brewing and your FG is at what is recommended for your brew. We don't want you having a few dozen bottle bombs hanging around.
After you bottle keep it in the warm for a few weeks before trying one .
If you get the chance, read this on-line book http://www.howtobrew.com/
Everything for beginners and others alike is here.
Learn to brew great beer.

Sorry,

Sprinkle the dry yeast over the cooled water and sugar to proof it.
Pour the proofed yeast into the wort and the fermenter.

I've only ever used one pack of yeast and I do 6.5 gallon batches they all start superbly. I do aerate well.

If SG stops decreasing and stabilises you may be finished or it may be stuck. has Boo Boo says you need to know the recommended FG or the attenuation rate of the yeast along with the amount of fermentables in the wort.

Secondary (fermentation) can act as a safety barrier.

For a standard Ale 1014 - 1008 is a fair range to aim for.

flyfish said:

Should I use the entire bag, or only 2.2 lbs. as the directions that accompany the LME say. I'm guessing that the directions are probably useless. What effect would more vs. less DME have on the taste?

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I wouldn't obcess over the difference between 2.2 and 3.0 lbs of the DME on a first batch. Its just beer and the more the merrier! Just write it down so next time you will know how much you added...(Maybe a little more, maybe a little less)...Also next time skip the prehopped LME and just go all DME and add your own hops. Its easy, and besides the quality will be much higher. Good luck.