Installing a Thermostat

Hi,

I just received a Johnson Controls analog thermostat that I had recently purchased. I am thinking about getting it installed today but I had a few questions. Do you really have to mount it or having hanging it from a vertical surface(wall) as indicated on the instructions manual? Cant I just place it on a flat horizontal surface like the top of the fridge or a table? Also, I have a Sanyo 4912 fridge and I plan on placing the thermostat probe into a jar with water. Is this a good idea? I hear this way I wont overwork the compressor, as the temp may drastically change each time I open the fridge.

Anyone have any sugestions? or comments?

Do the instructions actually indicate that it's position sensitive? I'm having a hard time understanding why it would matter if the control box was situated one way or another.

I have a new Ranco controller, and while it instructs me to mount it on a wall or flat surface, it does say that is ISN'T position sensitive, and should merely be mounted so that the controls are accessible. Not sure why the JC controller would need to be mounted a specific way.

most new thermostats should not be position sensitive but any of them with a mercury switch on a bimetalic spring (should only be present in older models) will only work accurately if perfectly level.

Do the instructions actually indicate that it's position sensitive? I'm having a hard time understanding why it would matter if the control box was situated one way or another.

Click to expand...

My thermostat model is the A19AAT (bought it from Northern Brewer).

This is what the instructions say:

"Mount the thermostat to a flat, vertical surface through the mounting holes in back of the case or hang the thermostat from a sturdy support using the beaded-chain hanger assembly"

Under importat it says:

"Mounting an A19AAT type thermostat on a rough or uneven surface may warp the control case and cause the thermostat to operate out of the intended temperature range. When mounting to rough or uneven surfaces, use only the top two mounting holes at the back of th thermostat. To avoid warping the thermostat case, do not over tighten the mounting screws"

Resurrecting a very old thread!

I want to ask something about this thermostat. How do you guys install the thermometer? specifically how to run it. from the internal mechanism into the chamber? or outside of the fridge, thru the door rubber into the chamber? thats all i want to find...and all the searches end up in pecker talk! lol

The A19 is an electronic thermostat. Gravity isn't going to play a role. The instructions must indicate the vertical position because of the mounting holes and to read the display.

As far as the water goes, I've had the tip of the thermocouple in a bottle with a stopper in it for 4 months now. Checked it the other day and no corrosion. I think this could be come a problem if your water reacted with the thermocouple eventually (lag though the corrosion). Someone proposed using the material in freezer packs to eliminated the H20 issue. That bottle has been filled with that material from spare packs laying around. When I get around to it, I'll just move it over (have to empty a couple of kegs first). Yum.

bbbrew said:

The A19 is an electronic thermostat. Gravity isn't going to play a role. The instructions must indicate the vertical position because of the mounting holes and to read the display.

As far as the water goes, I've had the tip of the thermocouple in a bottle with a stopper in it for 4 months now. Checked it the other day and no corrosion. I think this could be come a problem if your water reacted with the thermocouple eventually (lag though the corrosion). Someone proposed using the material in freezer packs to eliminated the H20 issue. That bottle has been filled with that material from spare packs laying around. When I get around to it, I'll just move it over (have to empty a couple of kegs first). Yum.

Click to expand...

this thread is from 2008, i asked a question regarding installation, didn't want to create another thread...the search found more than a 100...can you help me, im on the post before yours

echotraveler,
Folks do it different ways depending on a few things. If you want to mount the thermistat on the front, the door doesn't have any coils in it so just drill a hole large enough to fish though the thermocouple. If you are going to install the display device on the side then with a small pilot drill and some luck cut into the side and hope not to hit one of the coils. To improve your chances, turn the unit on high and try to identify where the coil might be by touch or sound. I've see a couple of guys make a paste and place it on the unit to dry and then turn up to high. This way they can see the witness of the coils. This will work much better on the top but the sides might not be as successful. Hope this helps. Make sure you seal where the wire comes though on the inside with some caulk, to avoid moisture issues. BTW, it was late when I read your post the first time (early am that is). Good luck. BB

Resurrection...

I have the same question for getting the probe into the keezer. Going through the top near a corner or in through the door seems to be logical low risk way to get it in the fridge.

Thinking of drilling a hole, very carefully just to pierce the sheet metal then, stop drilling, poke around to see if there is something blocking access. Like a coil!!

What have you guys done? Looking for ideas...

Schlenkerla said:

I have the same question for getting the probe into the keezer. Going through the top near a corner or in through the door seems to be logical low risk way to get it in the fridge.

Thinking of drilling a hole, very carefully just to pierce the sheet metal then, stop drilling, poke around to see if there is something blocking access. Like a coil!!

What have you guys done? Looking for ideas...

Click to expand...

You said keezer, so is it a converted freezer with a collar or what? You can very easily drill a hole through the collar for the probe penetration if you have a collar. I would not risk drilling through the side of a freezer. There are typically two sets of coils embedded in the walls. Another safe option would be to drill through the back edge of the lid. This leaves the top surface intact and a cleaner installation. There is usually a small plastic plug in the center back edge of the lid where they injected the foam insulation. I would pull that plug and drill a hole through that same port downward at an angle.

I have the same controller and I just have my sitting on top of my kegarator in a horizontal position as it is going to have a new home in a couple of months. Everything seems to be just fine.

Schlenkerla said:

Resurrection...

I have the same question for getting the probe into the keezer. Going through the top near a corner or in through the door seems to be logical low risk way to get it in the fridge.

Thinking of drilling a hole, very carefully just to pierce the sheet metal then, stop drilling, poke around to see if there is something blocking access. Like a coil!!

What have you guys done? Looking for ideas...

Click to expand...

I used the make/model number for my two beer fridges to find service manuals and parts diagrams to determine that the top left corners of the fridge compartment was a safe spot to drill through. That said, I still did exactly what you said: drilled a small hole just through the rear sheet metal, then used a stiff thin metal probe to dig through the foam to see if there might just be a coolant line or ducting there. Once I clearly was bumping into the inner liners without hitting anything in between I finished drilling the holes. No hissing sounds

Cheers!

Thanks to your suggestion I called the frididaire people and found out that using the condensate drain is the best avenue for routing the temp probe. No drilling holes to get inside.

Update- My keezer now has an alien probe up its keester.

Schlenkerla,
One comment that I have about putting the probe in the drain is that depending on the location of the kegerator you might need to use that drain occasionally and it will become a pain without removing the probe.
There have been times where I need to clean the inside and the drain is very useful from that aspect. Additionally, if the unit is in a warmer area (garage) that has a tendency to change humidity, you might get condensation. So watch how the water might flow. You can alway just soak it up with a sponge or dry towel.
My 2 cents.
BB

The ease in fitting a thermostat very much depends on your existing installation. The first thing to note is that all wiring in heating, cooling and thermostats follows a common code. The wire that goes to the ‘A’ terminal in one system goes to the ‘A’ terminal in any system, same for B, C, D, etc.
you will note that virtually all Wi-Fi thermostats need a ‘C’ (or common) wire. There are exceptions to this, and can work with or without a ‘C’ wire, the Sensi Wi-Fi Smart Programmable Thermostat and the Nest Learning, 2nd Generation. The Next Learning has had some reported issues when not connected to a ‘C’ wire. As it draws the power for the Wi-Fi from any excess power from other wires, if the is insufficient spare power the Wi-Fi can be intermittent.

There is a workaround if you do not have a ‘C’ wire. You can either add a power extension kit (PEK), which is a small transformer which supplies the required voltage from an outlet, or by substituting the ‘G’ wire und using that instead.

Unlike older thermostats which contained mercury, to work correctly modern thermostats do not to be exactly level. However, for aesthetic purposes, it is worth taking a little time when fixing the back plate to the wall to make sure it is.

Once your thermostat has been wired up and fixed to the wall, it needs to be tested to make sure that the heating and cooling system works, then the Wi-Fi needs to be set up. This can be done in one of two ways.