American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Jumbo82 said:
I made an 11 gallon AG batch of this stuff last weekend. The only difference was my homebrew store doesn't carry Nottingham yeast, so I asked them for a good substitute. They recommended Safale S-04 which I used. After searching this thread, it appears that I should have used Safale US-05 instead. Now I'm wondering how this double batch will turn out. I suppose its an English ale now instead of an American ale, but will this still be a good tasting beer? I'm new to AG (only my second batch). Thanks.
I just made a split-batch IPA comparing S-04 and US-05. The S-04 has some slight fruity notes to it, whilst the US-05 is cleaner and drier. I think for the style the US-05 would be more appropriate, but the S-04 will still make excellent beer. So RDWHAHB! :mug:
 
Thanks Danek. That puts my mind at easy. Half of this batch will be going into my first keg, the other half into bottles. I'm looking forward to comparing the two. And I'm really looking forward to having a beer in my kegerator (which still being assembled)!
 
EdWort said:
The recipe calls for 2-Row Pale, but you can use 2-Row Pils if you need to. Be sure to use a 90 minute boil if you use pils so you reduce DMS.

i keep reading about DMS but i havent had a problem with it during 60 minute malt brewing sessions. Is this much more prevalent in AG?
 
and also i cant seem to find crystal 10L. ive been looking at northern brewer since they have better shipping rates than the other places ive found.

....am i able to substitute anything with the same L degree and flavoring? (im assuming this is referring to the color)
 
scinerd3000 said:
and also i cant seem to find crystal 10L. ive been looking at northern brewer since they have better shipping rates than the other places ive found.

....am i able to substitute anything with the same L degree and flavoring? (im assuming this is referring to the color)

Crystal 20L will work fine. It will have a more golden color to it.
 
EdWort said:
Crystal 20L will work fine. It will have a more golden color to it.

I made my first batch of this recipe last week and my LHBS also didn't have Crystal 10L. I wanted to keep the color down, so I went with a "dark" 11L munich that they had.
 
I made a batch of this yesterday (my first AG) with Crystal 20L instead (LHBS didn't have 10L). I accidentally undershot my target mash temp, it was 147 for the first 15 minutes until I could boil more water (1 gal), which then only brought it up to 150. I know this will make the wort more fermentable, but do you think it will drastically affect the flavor? Should I think about adding some maltodextrine at bottling for more body?

BTW I used an extra pound of base malt to account for low efficiency on my first AG attempt. It was bubbling like crazy in the fermenter this morning, so it is off to a good start. Unfortunately, I forgot to take an OG reading last night, and I will be out of town, so that sucks. It looked great in the fermenter and smelled awesome, so I am looking forward to this one in any case. Any suggestions?
 
I made a batch of this yesterday (my first AG) with Crystal 20L instead (LHBS didn't have 10L). I accidentally undershot my target mash temp, it was 147 for the first 15 minutes until I could boil more water (1 gal), which then only brought it up to 150. I know this will make the wort more fermentable, but do you think it will drastically affect the flavor? Should I think about adding some maltodextrine at bottling for more body?

I had the exact same problem hitting my mash temp.

I brewed this today as my first AG. Overall I think it went ok. Besides the mash temp issue, I also broke my auto siphon and my dog knocked my hydrometer off the counter, breaking it as well. At least I gathered a lot of data on my HLT and MLT.

I'm very excited to see how this turns out. I don't think I messed it up too bad. Hopefully my next AG goes a little smoother.
 
Hey Edwort I'm gonna give this a try. I converted it to PM so instead of 8lbs of 2-row I am using 2.5lbs of 2-row and 3lbs of extra light DME. I'm shooting for 2 weeks from now cause next weekend I'll be bottling my New Year Eve Apfelwein.

Thanks :D
 
Hi,

I was thinking of brewing this as my first AG, but I got carried away when I started playing with Beersmith, and I ended up with an IPA and an Oatmeal Stout. Both sessions went very well, Efficiency of 70 and 75%. Good enough! AG is so easy when you Just Do It!
And prost to this community for making me aware of batch sparging!

Back to the topic; I still want to make this beer as everyone here seems to agree it's a great one. Maybee to supplement my first kegs. My problem is the 10L Crystal. The lightest colour crystal I can get is 66SRM.
I saw someone suggesting substituting with Munich. But wouldn't a half pound of Munich make a drier, less malty beer than a half pound of 10L Crystal?

Anything I can blend with 66SRM crystal to make 10L?
What I have on hand that is lighter in colour than the 66SRM Crystal is Carapils, Vienna, Münchener, UK Pale and Wheat malt.

Cheers!
beefeater
 
beefeater said:
Back to the topic; I still want to make this beer as everyone here seems to agree it's a great one. Maybee to supplement my first kegs. My problem is the 10L Crystal. The lightest colour crystal I can get is 66SRM.
I saw someone suggesting substituting with Munich. But wouldn't a half pound of Munich make a drier, less malty beer than a half pound of 10L Crystal?

Anything I can blend with 66SRM crystal to make 10L?
What I have on hand that is lighter in colour than the 66SRM Crystal is Carapils, Vienna, Münchener, UK Pale and Wheat malt.
This doesn't quite answer your question, but when I made this beer I could only get hold of Crystal 60, so I used that. It was the best beer I've made.
 
I plan an brewing this as my 1st ever AG batch this week. I'm adjusting the recipe to 60% efficiency.

Now that the days are warm here in Texas, my house normally sits around 74-75F. I have a son of fermentation chiller in the garage, but my next batch in 2 weeks will require the use of this chiller (so it's available for 14 days).

Question: Is it better to ferment in the house at 75F for the entire 24 days? (10 primary + 14 secondary)

OR

Would it be better to use my fermentation chiller at 68F for 14 days, then secondary in the house at 75F?
 
Danek said:
This doesn't quite answer your question, but when I made this beer I could only get hold of Crystal 60, so I used that. It was the best beer I've made.

Ok, I'll probably go for the Crystal 60 then. Did you use the full half pound of it or did you reduce the amount to get lighter colour?

cheers!
beefeater
 
Soperbrew said:
Would it be better to use my fermentation chiller at 68F for 14 days, then secondary in the house at 75F?

This is the way to go and will work fine. You always want to ferment at proper temps. Secondary two weeks later at 75 will not impact it in a negative manner like the reverse will.
 
beefeater said:
Ok, I'll probably go for the Crystal 60 then. Did you use the full half pound of it or did you reduce the amount to get lighter colour?
I used the full amount. It was my first AG beer, and I wasn't particularly worried about the colour.
 
this is my second time making it i use same amount of crystal but i use the 45L and instead of Vienna i use munich same amount aswell and it's my best beer nice head retention nice crisp taste :)
 
so do you use pellet, whole leaf or plug hops? i dont have any experience using anything other than pellet so im wondering if it will change the taste profile of IBU's
 
brewed it with pellet hops. Came out lovly. Hit about 1.053 on specific gravity...i think i boiled off a bit too much but other than that everything was dead on. Im fermenting in a 6.5 gallon carboy and im at a bit over 5 gallons. Checked for complete starch conversion with iodine and everything was perfect. Thanks for an excellent recipe for me to try my first ALL GRAIN! ill let you know how it turns out :) I did get a bit giddy and i dumped the yeast in while the wort was a little hot but notingham says to pitch on the high side.... it wasnt hot by any means so well see.
 
scinerd3000 said:
brewed it with pellet hops. Came out lovly. Hit about 1.053 on specific gravity...i think i boiled off a bit too much but other than that everything was dead on. Im fermenting in a 6.5 gallon carboy and im at a bit over 5 gallons. Checked for complete starch conversion with iodine and everything was perfect. Thanks for an excellent recipe for me to try my first ALL GRAIN! ill let you know how it turns out :) I did get a bit giddy and i dumped the yeast in while the wort was a little hot but notingham says to pitch on the high side.... it wasnt hot by any means so well see.

Congrats! Give it some time to mature.
 
My first batch of this is also not (at least not yet) all that I hoped it would be. But I think it's because I rushed things. I racked it to a secondary after 7 days (needed the ale pail, but yes fermentation had definitely subsided) and crash cooled it a few days after that before kegging it. It's only 19 days old and I've been pulling off the keg for a week. The problem with the delivery is that there is a sort of a taste that I can only describe as a little sour. It's just not quite as clean as I was expecting. Probably I didn't give the Notty yeasties enough time to clean up after themselves. Or I had/have sanitation issues. My subsequent batch was Ed's Hefe which I allowed to stay in primary for a full 11 days, then racked to a better bottle (mostly because I had loose hops in the primary) and crash cooled for a day and kegged moments ago. The hefe is much more what I expected and I have high hopes for it performance on tap.
 
BakerStreetBeers said:
My first batch of this is also not (at least not yet) all that I hoped it would be. But I think it's because I rushed things. I racked it to a secondary after 7 days (needed the ale pail, but yes fermentation had definitely subsided) and crash cooled it a few days after that before kegging it. It's only 19 days old and I've been pulling off the keg for a week.

Hmm, it could be that you started drinking it less than 2 weeks after pitching the yeast. :D

Patience, it's not a Hefe where you can do that. It needs time to finish, time to carb, and time to mature. Lay off the keg for 2 weeks and try it again and let me know what you think then.
 
i am going to be bottling this because i dont have a keg. After its done fermenting, should i still rack into a secondary? One other question, when im done, im not going to have enough room to crash cool all the bottles unfortunatly....do you think that will effect the final outcome? the plan was to let them sit in a cool dark place and mature then cool them for a few weeks to let the haze settle before drinking.
 
I just finished this as my 2nd AG batch. My boil-off didn't drop the volume to 5.5, I ended up with 6 gallons in my fermenter at OG 1.045. I can't do the math, but if it would have boiled down to 5.5 or 5, would I have been closer to 1.051?

Quilyn
 
first day...
beeeer.jpg


now fermenting nicely...this is going to be amazing :)

beer2.jpg


naturally the apfelwein is in the background. Thanks again Edwort!
 
Quilyn said:
I just finished this as my 2nd AG batch. My boil-off didn't drop the volume to 5.5, I ended up with 6 gallons in my fermenter at OG 1.045. I can't do the math, but if it would have boiled down to 5.5 or 5, would I have been closer to 1.051?

Quilyn


Using Beersmith I got 1.049 if you boiled down to 5.5 gallons from 6, and 1.054 if you boiled down to 5 gallons.
 
just racked into a secondary. the color lightened up alot! Not sure how this is going to taste when its finished but im contemplating adding some excess casscade hops i had laying around into the secondary. What do you think? Taste so far is light with a hint of the hops. No bite from the alcohol either. Seems a bit thin. The original hops i had was only 5.5%AA so i adjusted the recipe by adding 1.2Oz at the first hop addition but i think i should have added a bit more throughout. Any thoughts?

Also it fully fermented out. SO i went from 1.053 down to 1.011 so the alcohol is there.... i just cant figure out why the color doesnt match yours?
IMG_1555.jpg
 
That is similar to the color of mine and I used some Crystal 60 too. My ferment is slow and steady, I pitched last Sat night and its still bubbling along at around 66 degrees.
 
stever said:
That is similar to the color of mine and I used some Crystal 60 too. My ferment is slow and steady, I pitched last Sat night and its still bubbling along at around 66 degrees.

yea im brewing in socal and its been warm....so i fermented at about 73. This was pretty much done fermenting at around 5 days but i gave it 7 to make sure + its sitting in secondary. Im bottling so i want it to be extra clear! Next time im deffinitly adding something to give it a bit more mouth feel
 
I just rec'd the ingredients for my Spring batch of Haus ale .. it will be my "stock" beer ..

I have home-grown Willamette hops, so will be using them plus 1 oz of cascade ...


I will pitch ontop of a London Ale Yeast cake ...

maybe a walk on the wild side , but I was wondering if anyone else has used london Ale yeast ? ?
 
ok so it ended up being better than i though. Added just shy of a half oz of cascade to dryhop which is getting better daily. This is my first time dry hopping and since i only had pellets thats what i used. Its definitely coming around though and tastes kick ass!

IMG_1563.jpg
 
I will be doing a mini mash batch of this soon.I have two questions:

I understand that you place your grains and water in the oven at 150f for an hour. Can I assume you could also maintain temps on a burner at 150f as well? I will be brewing outdoors without access to an oven.

I have always brewed with LME (Just seems more fresher than powdered instant). Would you suggest to try DME or would LME be OK for this recipe? If so how much would you recomend?
 
I have never hear of putting it in your oven which I am sure would work but all the recipes i have seen reference two different methods.

1: Put your grains in a steeping bag and and add them to your kettle and turn on the heat, once the temp reaches 150 kill the heat and remove.

2. heat your water to 150ish, add your grains and steep for 20-30 minutes.

I think the later is more common but as long as you have your grains steeping for around 20+ minutes at the 150-170 mark you should be fine be it oven or stove top, but I can't imagine why you would use the over over the stove top.


A lot of people will tell you DME is superior to LME since LME is more susceptible to the effects of aging. DME will stay fresher longer but you can use either and it should be great as long as the batch of LME you have is not terribly old. You may want to try the late extract addition method discussed here.
 
I will be doing a mini mash batch of this soon.I have two questions:

I understand that you place your grains and water in the oven at 150f for an hour. Can I assume you could also maintain temps on a burner at 150f as well? I will be brewing outdoors without access to an oven.

I have always brewed with LME (Just seems more fresher than powdered instant). Would you suggest to try DME or would LME be OK for this recipe? If so how much would you recomend?

i have done other batches soley on the burner. I used an aluminum pot and i had to keep adjusting the heat every 7 minutes. To sparge/mashout when it was done i took it over to another pot of 170 degree water and soaked for 5-10 mins then added the two togeather and boiled. its still fermenting so well see how it turns out. The temp drains very quickly though so you have to keep adjusting the flame on your burner
 
Would this be the same as Crystal 10L
Caramel 10º L Briess (USA): This crystal malt lends a slight color, unique flavor and body. Also aids in head retention and foam stability. Imparts a sweet, mild caramel flavor and light golden color. Usage: 1 - 15%
 
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