JCummins87
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The hops package says c-type tgats all an its 1.25oz
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ericbw
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Briess Porter extract has a mix of malts in it - base, Victory, Chocolate, Caramel 80, and Carapils. Pretty much what you would expect in a porter recipe (except for roasted barley, which I would have expected). So like Ogri said above, follow a recipe or database for the hopping schedule. Brewingwithbriess.com MIGHT have a recipe that uses that extract, but I don't see it. A porter recipe will have all the grains or extracts - assume that you already have that and just follow the hops. You have to scale them for the batch size, and that's where the calculators come in handy.
MB directions call out for 2 1/2 tsb per 1 L bottle
There is 8 1 L bottles so that is 3.33oz of sugar.
If I go here http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
they suggest I would only need around 2.5oz of sugar giver or take depending on the beer.
So why does MB say to add more sugar than if I brewed a non- MB batch?
Thanks
There is 8 1 L bottles so that is 3.33oz of sugar.
If I go here http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
they suggest I would only need around 2.5oz of sugar giver or take depending on the beer.
So why does MB say to add more sugar than if I brewed a non- MB batch?
Thanks
The_Professor
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Did you enter 2.12 as the beer volume?
Ogri
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It is a bit on the cool side and, although your beer will carbonate eventually, it'll take much, MUCH, longer than it would at 70*f. Even at 70*f you're, on the whole, looking at about three weeks before putting some beers in the fridge for a few days to chill a bit and absorb more of the CO2 into solution before opening and enjoying.
David2mayes
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I figured it would be a great way to get him into the whole thing, without him (or me) having to spend a bunch of coin.
So... I'm a bit worried...
MRB says to keep it between 67 and 75 degrees.
The other night, I got home and it was 78 in the closet that I'm keeping the LBK.
I then resorted to a "Swamp Cooler" as recommended. I put it in my bathtub with some frozen 2 liter bottles with some water (not covering the whole LKB).
I just temp'd the water, and its 49... that seems WAY too cold for Ale yeast... am I ruining my beer?
MRB says to keep it between 67 and 75 degrees.
The other night, I got home and it was 78 in the closet that I'm keeping the LBK.
I then resorted to a "Swamp Cooler" as recommended. I put it in my bathtub with some frozen 2 liter bottles with some water (not covering the whole LKB).
I just temp'd the water, and its 49... that seems WAY too cold for Ale yeast... am I ruining my beer?
78 is too warm and the yeast may have produced some off flavors while it was warm (mostly esters, but there's a possibility of producing phenols). Also, if the air temperature was 78, the beer was likely even warmer.
49 is too cool and the year will do almost nothing. I notice that you say the water is 49. Do you have a thermometer on the LBK? The beer may be a bit warmer than that. For one thing, fermentation creates great. For another, if the water is fairly shallow, its not cooling the entire LBK.
Try for a middle ground, sort of like Goldilocks. Not too hot, not too cold.
Thats a bit hard to do...
I'm buying a chest freezer next week hopefully, and I'm going to put a thermostat controller on it to keep it all 60 degrees at all times.
However right now, I can't keep it in that happy medium...
I do not have a fermometer on the LBK, instead I'm using a digital food thermometer that I stuck in the water right beside the LBK...
I'm buying a chest freezer next week hopefully, and I'm going to put a thermostat controller on it to keep it all 60 degrees at all times.
However right now, I can't keep it in that happy medium...
I do not have a fermometer on the LBK, instead I'm using a digital food thermometer that I stuck in the water right beside the LBK...
I actually used 2.5 as the volume so changing that to 2.12 it actually makes the difference between the two more.
MB=2.5 tsp for (8)1L bottles = 3.3 oz
Tastybrew calculator:
2.12 gals @ 70deg ( just used the American Lager, light) I get 2.0 oz (for table sugar)
That is a big difference of priming sugar. I would think it would be close but this to me is a big difference.
How much should I use? I plan on make a sugar solution and racking MB onto it with my new fermenting bucket.
BridgewaterBrewer
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I usually use 2.0 oz table sugar for a 2.5 gal batch. I believe 4 oz corn sugar is commonly what you get in a 5 gal kit and the difference between corn and table sugar is small.
Good work Stigy! Hope it tastes half as good as it looks!
Good work Stigy! Hope it tastes half as good as it looks!
Stigy
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Yup it was very, very delicious. Cannot wait to drink some more after giving it a week or two more conditioning time.
Noticed you're in Bridgewater - I am in Bergen County, that is so close!
I have a question, probably a stupid one so please forgive me for it. I don't use anything made just for brewing, my Fermenter is a 5 gallon bucket. lol my question is, after the co2 has stopped coming out of my bubbler, I can remove the lid, and throw a handful of sugar in, and the yeast go crazy. So, this tells me that they're out of food, not dead from the alcohol. If I add say 4 lbs. of sugar, wouldn't that give me a higher alcohol content beer? I know I would have to be careful, so I would still have enough yeast to get it to carbonate after I bottled it, and it would take more time to work into alcohol.
skidoo2003
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Getting ready for brew #2. Mr beer winter dark ale. Question is, during fermentation is it ok to have a temp fluctuation from 65-72 daily? I have an auto thermostat and have it cool down during the day and at night.
You can add sugar if you want, but it'll thin the beer and give it a cidery taste that will take a long time to condition out. You're best to keep adjuncts (simple sugars like table sugar, honey, etc) to less than 1/3 the total amount of sugar. Most should come from malt. I added sugar to a few beers early on to bump the alcohol and they were some of the worst beers I've made. There are valid reasons to add simple sugars to beer, but it's best to avoid it until you know why you should add it.
The_Professor
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I usually measure by volume. 1/3 cup or a little more depending on the carb you want. (less than 1/2)
My LBK is at two weeks tonight. I plan to bottle next Thursday, but I want to taste it tonight, sorta help me wait, with a little sip...
Can I infect the beer by opening the spigot? How much does moving the keg around hurt things? Should I be S U P E R careful to not stir anything up?
Can I infect the beer by opening the spigot? How much does moving the keg around hurt things? Should I be S U P E R careful to not stir anything up?
Stigy
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Honestly if you open the spigot to take a sample you'll be fine. I do it to take FG readings once or twice before I start to bottle anyway.
At two weeks the main yeast activity is definitely done so stirring it up will only disturb the trub at the bottom, but you should be fine honestly. Just be careful.
Good luck!
Nah, you're fine. I take 3 or 4 2oz samples here and there. If you have some extra sanitizer around though it wouldn't hurt to spritz the nozzle before and after you do.
muleskinner90
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Just got finished bottling my first ever brew! Got 21 bottles of classic American light. It was the 18th day from brew day. My very last bottle was quite cloudy. Will this clear up during priming?
Kirkwooder
Emperor of all things nobody cares about
Mine was the same way, very cloudy, mostly because i tried to make sure that last bottle was full. It settled after a week or so, and was the first beer I tried. Don't rush it. It wasn't very good! Two more weeks and the next bottle was much better! but still not great! Reminds me of some of the cheap canned stuff. Drinkable but leaves you wanting something better!
muleskinner90
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acidrain said:It will settle out during conditioning.
Priming was done when you added sugar before bottling.
Oh. I thought priming is the two weeks immediately following bottling day while it is sitting in the same room I had it fermenting in. I thought conditioning is the next two weeks sitting in the fridge. Am I totally off?
Ostomo517
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Well if I remember in MrB instructions it kinda does sound like priming is a stage and "cold conditioning" or bottle conditioning is next. Just kinda like they wanna intro you to the terms but not lol. Dont worry as you get sucked into this hobby/obsession and read books and here that stuff will come along in time.
Moved bottles downstairs yesterday where it is 70-72. Will they be ready sooner?
I'd sanitize the spigot and bottle what's still in the LBK.
For future reference, it's a good idea to fill it with water and check for leaks before filling it with wort.
Jahernandez87
New Member
I have a question, I am VERY new to this I literally started a batch last night. So far so good but my question is that I have seen someone instead of adding sugar to the individual bottles he added sugar the the keg and then he bottled them. I was wondering if anyone have done this or recommends this. Also tips on sanitizing the equipment with out having to use the no rinse stuff the provide. I also did not get a booster.. Do I need that? Thanks
The_Professor
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna answer your questions in reverse.
No you do not need booster. That was an additive that was used when the cans of malt were smaller.
You should use some sort of sanitizer on your equipment. (And that is separate from cleaning the equipment.) If you have a local beer store a more popular no rinse sanitizer is Star San.
You are asking about "batch priming" vs "bottle priming". Bottle priming is a simple but time consuming way to add the sugar to your beer for carbonation. Batch priming actually involves "racking" (transferring) the beer to a clean and sanitized secondary container to add the sugar (usually sugar boiled in 1-2 cups of water) so you do not mix the trub (stuff at the bottom of the keg) into your fairly clear beer.
Adding sugar all at once is called batch priming. I wouldn't recommend adding it to the fermenter. Instead, get another container. Another LBK works, as does a container called a slimline (available at Walmart). Add the sugar (I think I used 60 grams for a Mr beer sized batch) to about a cup of water. Bring it to a boil. Pour that into the priming container and transfer the beer into the container. I used a tube for that in order to reduce aeration.
There are other sanitizers available. I like star San, but many use iodophor.
Booster used to come with standard refills, but the new refills have larger cans of HME.
Jahernandez87
New Member
Ok cool, I was a little worried because I felt that some items were missing. Well since this is my fist batch ever I will just add the sugar to the individual bottles.. Now as for cleaning my keg and supplies after use, what do y'all recommend?
Jahernandez87
New Member
Another question, can we use the Mr Beer keg for other beers or other malts, that are not from Mr Beer?
I generally use Oxiclean free (make sure it's the unscented one).
There's a similar product called Sun Oxygen cleaner that I've used, also. Sometimes the dollar store will have something called LA totally awesome oxygen cleaner. But that doesn't seem to dissolve as well. It's also more expensive on a per unit basis.
timduncan200021
Well-Known Member
Yes, my local LHBS sells brewferm which makes 9qt batches. They are usually better quality and higher abv if u are looking for that kind of thing.
Guys,
Tuesday I'll be @ two weeks in. I'm starting to think about the next steps, which has led to a question.
Priming sugar. If I sanitize everything, funnel, measing spoon, etc....., the sugar is going to stick to those items. Right?
Is this going to be a problem getting the right amount of sugar in each bottle, or am I over thinking things?
Or?
I know, stupid rookie question, but having lost the first batch, I'd REALLY like to have some drinkable in the second batch.
Thanks!
Ken
Tuesday I'll be @ two weeks in. I'm starting to think about the next steps, which has led to a question.
Priming sugar. If I sanitize everything, funnel, measing spoon, etc....., the sugar is going to stick to those items. Right?
Is this going to be a problem getting the right amount of sugar in each bottle, or am I over thinking things?
Or?
I know, stupid rookie question, but having lost the first batch, I'd REALLY like to have some drinkable in the second batch.
Thanks!
Ken
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