recipes = Converting Crystal Malt

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Grinder12000

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Is there some easy way to convert say a 0.5lb Crystal 90L to something I can actually buy? Like 80L 120L and so forth?

I also have a recipes that call for Crystal 75L and 25L and I can only purchase 20,40,60,90 and 120L
 
Use the closest that you can get. If you overdo the crystal amounts (especially with the higher Ls), you'll get far too much sweetness and dark fruit.

I noticed I can BUY 90 but my software only has 80

Add it to your database- if you can get the data sheet from your source about SRM, ppg, etc.
 
Is there some easy way to convert say a 0.5lb Crystal 90L to something I can actually buy? Like 80L 120L and so forth?

I also have a recipes that call for Crystal 75L and 25L and I can only purchase 20,40,60,90 and 120L

.5 lbs crystal 90L = .51 lbs crystal 80L :D

weird numbers though 75? 25l? Baird makes a 34L british crystal...Just use either more of the lesser rated or less of the greater...or don't do any adjustment that's what I do.
 
.5 lbs crystal 90L = .51 lbs crystal 80L

So you are saying there is not THAT much difference.

And what flyangler18 is saying it is better to use a lower then a higher for crystal.

thanks.
 
C80 and C90 are pretty close as far as potential yield and the other ratings for software. I just copied C80 and adjusted the SRM for C90.
 
So you are saying there is not THAT much difference.

And what flyangler18 is saying it is better to use a lower then a higher for crystal.

thanks.

yeah recipes aren't formulas...I'll change a recipe if I think its wack, say it calls for 1/2lbs of crystal 80 I'll do 60 instead and add a little black malt for color or whatever. I'm not a big fan of the crystal so I stick with the less than 60 variety in a pale ale. I pretty much just use British Crystal for everything, and the old-school default 'British Crystal' is 60L. (I make a lot of bitters, and strong ales(the 1.050 'real' kind), british pa's)
 
80L and 90L are close enough to just do a one-for-one sub. If the recipe calls for 75L and you can get 60L and 90L, I'd probably split it between them - although know that it's not just a matter of averaging. A pound of 20L and a pound of 60L is not the same as 2lbs of 40L; there are differences in flavor that I think are more important than the color. But, if you're subbing within 10L or 15L of what the original recipe called for, you're probably going to be CLOSE ENOUGH.

Also, I would *not* add more to make up the color difference (using more 40L if a recipe calls for 60L); you'll get the color but screw up the flavor, sweetness, and body.
 
We could use a definitive resource on Crystal malts. For example, a 55L-65L is different than a 60L. And what's a 15L and why is it different than a 10L or a 20L?

It should be noted that .5# Crystal 90L is NOT identical (key word) to 0.51# Crystal 80L. They are substitutable, but they will lend slightly different characteristics.

In the end, you work with what you have available. I plan to buy a bunch of the british "ranged" Crystals - the Muntons brand name, 55-65L and so on. Those are not the same as 40L and 60L.

Stupid ambiguity. LOL.

In your instance, I would just use 0.5# 80L and be done with it, don't sweat the minimal amount of extra color. What kind of brew is it?
 
Using Beer Smith I hit the button to change the color and quickly decided - - WHY!!! flavor is more important the color.

Now I'm looking for a good source of flavorings like Hazelnut. OR - better yet - REAL hazelnuts. When would you add crushed Hazelnuts to a brew. In the mash? in the wort before fermentation? Like Dry Hazelnutting?(wow - that sounds rather lurid LOL)
 
Using Beer Smith I hit the button to change the color and quickly decided - - WHY!!! flavor is more important the color.

Now I'm looking for a good source of flavorings like Hazelnut. OR - better yet - REAL hazelnuts. When would you add crushed Hazelnuts to a brew. In the mash? in the wort before fermentation? Like Dry Hazelnutting?(wow - that sounds rather lurid LOL)

I'm not a fan of nuts in my beer. Too oily, wrong flavors, and it can kill any chance you have for head.

I'm waiting for Chriso to chime in because, if I remember correctly, he used nuts in one of his beers. Not exactly sure how that turned out.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f5/rogues-hazelnut-brown-nectar-70019/ <- definitive source, check post 23 and onward for info on the extract
Flavor extracts - Home Brewing Wiki
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/hazelnut-flavor-troubles-833/

as far as real hazelnuts, concensus so far has been that, of the nuts, it's one of the most oily, and therefore could be very difficult to use the real stuff.

so far, pecan and walnut have been done sort-of-successfully. i wouldn't say all the kinks are worked out. and i, personally, need to revisit my pecan experiment this winter with another try, but with a proven base recipe and controlled ferment temps, to see if i can get pecan without all the other clove + other off-tastes.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/real-nuts-nut-brown-ale-74218/ <- Links to more 1/2 way down thread, look for my post
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/hazelnut-beer-23715/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/brewing-nuts-27654/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/brewing-nuts-57731/
 
Awesome Chriso - Rogue Hazelnut is my #1 fav beer (at the moment). I've done the AHS kit but feel I can make it better.
 
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