Installing a water heater element

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A Sanke keg would be done the same way if you want to add 2000 watts of auxiliary heat. You would just mount the element through the side and wire through a heavy duty light switch. Or you could wire in a 4000 watt 240V element but you need 240 VAC available to plug into. A 4000 watt 240V element still only draws 16.6 amps.
 
Did you write that?

If so, you need to add that the 20 amp kitchen outlet has to have a GFCI or some how there is a GFI inline for protection, don’t assume all kitchen outlet have this. I'd be more worried about that then someone voiding the kettles warranty...

Other then that, it should be helpful to some.
 
Did you write that?

If so, you need to add that the 20 amp kitchen outlet has to have a GFCI or some how there is a GFI inline for protection, don’t assume all kitchen outlet have this. I'd be more worried about that then someone voiding the kettles warranty...

Other then that, it should be helpful to some.

Yes, I wrote the article. And because of the way the element is wired there is no need for a GFI. The entire brew pot is tied to ground with the green wire that's attached to the green ground screw in the box. Your kitchen fridge, stove, garbage disposal and dishwasher are grounded the exact same way with no GFI in their circuits.
 
16 guage cord? 14, or even a 12 might be more appropriate.

I measured the voltage across the element and it's the same voltage that's at the outlet. The heater element draws only 16.6 amps at 120 Volts and the 16 gauge power cord is a non-issue.

I did stress that you should not use a smaller cord or a longer cord for the project because I'm sure that at some length you will start to see a voltage drop across the cord.
 
You will find that newer codes require GFI for those very appliances. I believe every receptacle in the kitchen or bathroom has to be gfi because it's a 'wet' environment. Brewing certainly qualifies as a wet environment.
 
I installed a new stove in my kitchen last year. I had to run new feeds because my Wife wanted a separate stovetop & oven and there were no requirements for a GFI breaker for the stove or oven. Modern code does require a 4 wire outlet with a separate neutral and ground for all new installs. They went from three wires to four wires because unlike connections like the one I made for the brew pot, the white neutral wire actually carries some current for the 120V parts like the oven light. The 4th green wire is the stove's safety ground.

If you wire your brewpot correctly the third wire (the green wire) is also the safety ground. The metal pot will be bonded to ground through the third round plug in the cord and if anything did short to the pot any current will be carried safely to ground. There is no need for a GFI breaker.
 
Every component of my system (HLT, BK, control panel, frame, pump) is grounded but I still use a GFI breaker. Brewing is very important to me but it is not worth dying over. YMMV.
 
I installed a new stove in my kitchen last year. I had to run new feeds because my Wife wanted a separate stovetop & oven and there were no requirements for a GFI breaker for the stove or oven. Modern code does require a 4 wire outlet with a separate neutral and ground for all new installs. They went from three wires to four wires because unlike connections like the one I made for the brew pot, the white neutral wire actually carries some current for the 120V parts like the oven light. The 4th green wire is the stove's safety ground.

If you wire your brewpot correctly the third wire (the green wire) is also the safety ground. The metal pot will be bonded to ground through the third round plug in the cord and if anything did short to the pot any current will be carried safely to ground. There is no need for a GFI breaker.

You're confusing breakers with GFIs. They are different and protect different things. They are not interchangeable.

GROUNDING with a breaker protects equipment, a GFI protects the person.

The ground as you describe will give you some protection as you mentioned: If one of the HOTs shorts to anything that's grounded (like the kettle) then the breaker should trip. The equipment is protected.

Regular breakers are rated for specific current ratings and will switch off (or 'trip') if ever the rated current is exceeded on the circuit they control. The sole purpose of breakers is to protect equipment.

What isn't protected is if that current goes through you (the brewer) and then you touch something grounded, possibly something completely different grounded. All of the sudden some current (not enough to trip a breaker) will flow through the person instead of going through the proper return path (the other HOT line).

A GFI will cut power when it detects that the current going in to a circuit does not match the current coming out of the circuit. Often this imbalance (typically only a few milliamps) is caused by current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and is accidentally touching an energized part of the circuit.

While the electrical code varies from country to country, in the United States GFIs are typically required in kitchens, bathrooms, and other places that can be wet and the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that GFI devices intended to protect people interrupt the circuit if the leakage current exceeds a range of 4–6 mA of current (the trip setting is typically 5 mA) within 25 ms. In other places the trip setting may be as high as 10-30mA.

5mA is a lot lower than the 20-30A that the breaker switches at because even as little as 10mA can kill someone. That's 3000 times less a 30A breaker.

Like the previous poster I would also always use a GFI on a brewing pot. In the end people can do as they please but I would never tell someone that "they don't need a GFI" with a brewpot. Let them decide what level of safety they want.

Kal
 
From the list of parts:

1 – 16 Gauge, 13 Amp rated Workshop Cord (works fine for 16 amp element)

I measured the voltage across the element and it's the same voltage that's at the outlet. The heater element draws only 16.6 amps at 120 Volts and the 16 gauge power cord is a non-issue.

I did stress that you should not use a smaller cord or a longer cord for the project because I'm sure that at some length you will start to see a voltage drop across the cord.
I'm afraid this doesn't make any sense. For a 20 amp circuit you should be 12 ga wire, not 16 ga. The length/voltage drop is irrelevant.

Yes, it may "work fine". But that's like saying that you can drive without a seatbelt "just fine" without crashing so therefore a seatbelt isn't required.

Again, people can do as they please but I'm really surprised that anyone would publish instructions that knowingly tell people to break code, especially when the cost difference between a 6 foot piece of 12 ga and 16 ga cord is only $1-2 at most.

Kal
 
I installed a new stove in my kitchen last year. I had to run new feeds because my Wife wanted a separate stovetop & oven and there were no requirements for a GFI breaker for the stove or oven.
That's (partially) because they are fixed installs (not moveable) that are on their own dedicated circuit.

In North America all 20A countertop kitchen outlets must be GFI protected as portable things (some of which are considered 'wet' appliances) may be plugged/unplugged. Your brew pot has a plug on it and is plugged/unplugged. I would use it on a GFI circuit. The good news is that the GFI required on a 20A/120V circuit is dirt cheap. No need for a GFI breaker. Just use a GFI outlet, available for about $20.

Kal
 
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I would use it on a GFI circuit. The good news is that the GFI required on a 20A/120V circuit is dirt cheap. No need for a GFI breaker. Just use a GFI outlet, available for about $20.

Kal

And this was/is my point, you can do what you want but if you're going to offer others advice, then simply state that they should only plug this into a GFI protected outlet, it is easy and FREE for you to write that and it is the right thing to be doing.
 
From the list of parts:




I'm afraid this doesn't make any sense. For a 20 amp circuit you should be 12 ga wire, not 16 ga. The length/voltage drop is irrelevant.

Yes, it may "work fine". But that's like saying that you can drive without a seatbelt "just fine" without crashing so therefore a seatbelt isn't required.

Again, people can do as they please but I'm really surprised that anyone would publish instructions that knowingly tell people to break code, especially when the cost difference between a 6 foot piece of 12 ga and 16 ga cord is only $1-2 at most.

Kal

Your toaster & coffee pot are plugged into the same 20 amp circuit and the cords to them are 16 gauge at the most. It's not the circuit that determines wire size for the power cord, it's the load the appliance is expected to draw from the circuit.
 
You're confusing breakers with GFIs. They are different and protect different things. They are not interchangeable.

GROUNDING with a breaker protects equipment, a GFI protects the person.

The ground as you describe will give you some protection as you mentioned: If one of the HOTs shorts to anything that's grounded (like the kettle) then the breaker should trip. The equipment is protected.

Regular breakers are rated for specific current ratings and will switch off (or 'trip') if ever the rated current is exceeded on the circuit they control. The sole purpose of breakers is to protect equipment.

What isn't protected is if that current goes through you (the brewer) and then you touch something grounded, possibly something completely different grounded. All of the sudden some current (not enough to trip a breaker) will flow through the person instead of going through the proper return path (the other HOT line).

A GFI will cut power when it detects that the current going in to a circuit does not match the current coming out of the circuit. Often this imbalance (typically only a few milliamps) is caused by current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and is accidentally touching an energized part of the circuit.

While the electrical code varies from country to country, in the United States GFIs are typically required in kitchens, bathrooms, and other places that can be wet and the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that GFI devices intended to protect people interrupt the circuit if the leakage current exceeds a range of 4–6 mA of current (the trip setting is typically 5 mA) within 25 ms. In other places the trip setting may be as high as 10-30mA.

5mA is a lot lower than the 20-30A that the breaker switches at because even as little as 10mA can kill someone. That's 3000 times less a 30A breaker.

Like the previous poster I would also always use a GFI on a brewing pot. In the end people can do as they please but I would never tell someone that "they don't need a GFI" with a brewpot. Let them decide what level of safety they want.

Kal

At 5 ma, 10 ma, or even 10A, the voltage developed across a hard ground is zero. In other words, any leakage current from the setup goes straight to ground through the green wire that's attached to the ground screw inside the box. It's current that kills but voltage that drives current flow.

I'm not saying that GFI's aren't great technology, I am saying that a properly GROUNDED piece of equipment does not need one. But if you feel more comfortable protecting everything with GFI you should install GIF.
 
Your toaster & coffee pot are plugged into the same 20 amp circuit and the cords to them are 16 gauge at the most. It's not the circuit that determines wire size for the power cord, it's the load the appliance is expected to draw from the circuit.
That is true, but not relevant here as your toaster and coffee pot do not draw 16.6 amps.

The kettle in my kitchen has cord on it that says 16 AWG. On the bottom of the kettle it says it draws 1500W. That's 12.5 amps. So a 16 ga wire is correct in this situation.

You state in your instructions that your kettle draws 16.6 amps. To carry 16.6 amps you require 12 ga wire. As you stated, "it's the load the appliance is expected to draw from the circuit" that matters.

The wire you show in your instructions is 16 ga, meant for up to 13 amps. That's why it says 16 ga / 13 amps on it:

For-power-start-with-a-8-16-Gauge-Workshop-Power.jpg


This cord should NOT be used for a 16.6 amp load. Again, as you stated, "it's the load the appliance is expected to draw from the circuit" that matters.

Kal
 
I would not have used or recommended this particular power cord without doing some measurements first. I measured the voltage at the outlet and then I measured the voltage at the element when plugged in and they were the same. This tells me that with the element plugged in and drawing current there is no voltage drop across the cord and it should be safe.

If I had measured a voltage drop I would have put together a higher gauge power cord because the last thing I want to do is cause a safety issue for myself or anyone else. This is why I stressed not using a longer cord or smaller cord in the article.

But I understand your concern because not all workshop cords are the same and I will update the article right now.
 
I'm not saying that GFI's aren't great technology, I am saying that a properly GROUNDED piece of equipment does not need one.
Again, you're confusing equipment protection with user protection. The two are different. The protection is done differently. There's some overlap as far as safety is concerned but they are indeed different.

GFIs are meant to protect the operator, grounding is meant to protect the equipment.

A blanket statement like what you wrote above disagrees with the US National Electrical Code as well as the code in most places in the world.

Again, do as you please but I would strongly suggest you don't post information publically that a properly grounded piece of equipment does not require a GFI, as that is incorrect.

Kal
 
I would not have used or recommended this particular power cord without doing some measurements first. I measured the voltage at the outlet and then I measured the voltage at the element when plugged in and they were the same. This tells me that with the element plugged in and drawing current there is no voltage drop across the cord and it should be safe.

If I had measured a voltage drop I would have put together a higher gauge power cord because the last thing I want to do is cause a safety issue for myself or anyone else. This is why I stressed not using a longer cord or smaller cord in the article.
As I wrote earlier, the voltage drop is irrelevant here. THE CORD MUST BE RATED FOR THE CURRENT IT IS TO CARRY. End of story.

Checking the voltage drop to determine if it's a large enouge gauge makes absolutely no sense.

Sometimes people like to use larger gauge wire for really long runs to avoid voltage drops. That is true. BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT DETERMINES THE GAUGE THAT SHOULD BE USED. Because the distance is so short, you could have used a really thin 24 ga wire even and you would have not had a voltage drop at all. That doesn't mean you can use a 24 ga wire here! It would likely get very hot.

Again: THE CORD MUST BE RATED FOR THE CURRENT IT IS TO CARRY.

Kal
 
I did re-read the article.

This is incorrect:

*****
Update:
I measured the voltage across the element and see no drop with the power cord I used and I suspect that this cord was manufactured with larger wire size than marked on the package.
Just because this particular workshop cord works fine for me, the same brand cord at your local Lowes or Home Depot may be too small.
You should wire your element with a power cord rated for at least 16 amps.
If you can't find a amperage rating on the cord you want to use, the wire size should be at least 14 gauge.
*****

Voltage drop is irrelevant. I don't know why you mention it. Someone will think that you can size a wire based on whether there's a voltage drop across it, which you can't. See my previous post above.

You also mention that the wire should be at least 14 ga. That is incorrect. It should be at least 12 ga. 14 ga is enough to carry 15A, not 16.6A.

Instead of posting an "update" after all the information is there you should simply remove the picture of the 16 ga cord you use and tell everyone in the various spots that 12 ga is what you should use.

Problem is that you can't buy a 12 ga extension cord with a standard 15A pliug because it doesn't make sense to use one on a standard 15A outlet, so the other pictures where you show the ends being cut off will have to be changed. You really need to use a 12 ga bare cord and attach a 20A plug on it, not a 15A plug. That would be a plug that wouldn't allow someone to plug it into a standard 15A outlet. If you use a standard 15A plug like you did anyone building this would pop their circuit breaker the moment they plug it into a standard 15A outlet by accident. You should not use a standard 15A plug if the device is required to carry more than 15A, as yours does. That's waiting for an accident to happen. That's why plugs with different current ratings have different pinputs. You can't plug your stove into a standard 15A outlet, you can't plug your 40A stove into a 30A dryer outlet, and so on.

15amp_20amp.JPG


20 amp:

Furman_20amp.jpg


15 amp:

Furman_15ampPlug.jpg


I'm done here. I'm wasting too much time on this.

Kal
 
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Thanks, I do appreciate the feedback - all of us sometimes fall into the "I know better" trap. I posted the update until I can shop for heavier extension cord and power plug.

But I have some corrections to your posts - modern kitchens, at least the ones built since the early 1970's have two 20 amp circuits but they have outlets like the one you have labeled for 15 amps. And you can buy outlets rated for 20 amps that accept only plugs with 2 vertical blades. You can also buy power cords rated for 20 amps with 2 vertical blades.

http://www.sharpteksupply.com/servlet/the-9283/Power-Cord-20-Amp/Detail
 
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