Water Heater Element - What size fitting?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JoeRags

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
254
Reaction score
2
Location
CT
I have an electric heating element I'll be using in my setup. Its a replacement unit for an electric water heater. $8 from Home Cheapo for 1500 watts.

What size fitting to I need to weld onto my keg to be able to screw this baby in?

Thanks!
 
I would say that it depends on the size of the threads on the element. I would go back to the store, with the element and find one that matches up and that you can weld on to the keg. Also i would get some sort of cap to hide the wires, when they are attatched. This is my HLT, are you planning on making a boil kettle or HLT? Note the two white caps on the sides, they cover the exposed wires and are siliconed up to make them water proof.

7985-NewKettles4Edit.jpg


It has two elements in it. But before you ask, i bought it like that. it just has a nut and some O-rings, there is no weld on the keg for the element to screw into.

The inside:

7985-NewKettles5Edit.jpg


Cheers
 
It will be used in my 4th vessel. HERMS heating will come via this half of a half barrel with a copper coil in it. This way I can keep my HLT up at the proper temp and still have perfect control over my MT temperature.

I could certainly bring the heating element to a store to try a bunch of fittings... I was just hoping somebody knew off the top of their head so I can order from McMaster.

Thanks
 
Normally, the threads on these elements are 1" National Pipe Straight Thread, so you need a 1" coupling to weld into the kettle. If you go weldless, get a stainless 1" locknut from McMaster or Grainger. I doubt you will find stainless pipe fittings at local hardware or DIY stores.
 
AiredAle said:
Normally, the threads on these elements are 1" National Pipe Straight Thread, so you need a 1" coupling to weld into the kettle. If you go weldless, get a stainless 1" locknut from McMaster or Grainger. I doubt you will find stainless pipe fittings at local hardware or DIY stores.


Thanks... I need a stainless so I can weld it on. I plan on ordering from McMaster.
 
I have two that I welded in my HLT and its an odd duck size its a 1" 11-1/2 NPTyou will need to buy a tap to clean the threads when you are done a let me tell you there not cheep you also need to make sure you buy a stainlees tap cause a normal one will break unless you are REALLY carefull. also I would suggest milling down one side a tig it from the inside with baby stitch welds and weld in a criss cross or you will warp the fitting and it will leak then stitch weld the outside in the same fashion. I did two and had to learn from the mistakes I made for the next HLT I make. If none of this makes sence PM me I can explane better
its very doable but they will go egg shape on ya if you dont take the right steps
Good luck
JJ
 
I have a big element (6000W 240V) that uses a 1-1/4" panel nut (like for electrical work/conduit). You can get them at a good electrical supply store or hardware store. I couldn't find a stainless or brass one.
 
O one more thing I dont know how many gallons of water you plan on heating with a 1500 watt but its not enough to heat 10 gallons of water very fast you will need to go to a much bigger one. Mine is a 5500 watt 220 volt on a relay and a 1500 watt 220 volt also on a relay with a low level switch to protect it.
ya ya ya I know I am a bit loooong winded
Just trying to help
JJ
 
Jaybird said:
O one more thing I dont know how many gallons of water you plan on heating with a 1500 watt but its not enough to heat 10 gallons of water very fast you will need to go to a much bigger one. Mine is a 5500 watt 220 volt on a relay and a 1500 watt 220 volt also on a relay with a low level switch to protect it.
ya ya ya I know I am a bit loooong winded
Just trying to help
JJ


It will only be heating a few gallons of water... enough to submerge my HERMS coil which is in its own, isolated vessel. I plan on recirculating through this while keeping a standalone HLT
 
my stand alone heat exchanger uses a 1500 watt element, it'll be just fine but don't expect it to be able to ramp up temps fast enough for real step mashes
 
since my last brew session, where I realized I was going to have to try out my IC with the march pump with silicon tubing as a HERMS due to a mash in of 142 degrees, I have been thinking of switching the HLT to an electric element or perhaps two. I had heard that it was not very effective to use the HERMS for step mashes but easily got 2 degrees a minute variation of temp without any problems with over heating the mash and denaturing the enzymes. Soooo electric is looking pretty sexy for the HLT although I think I will stick with the banjo for the boil as I am uninterested in the elements contacting the actual wort. It seems as though the elements can be done with 110 although 240 clearly looks superior.
 
i am doing a build now that involves a 15 gal ss keg and a 1500 watt 110 volt water heater element. looking for a nice weldless fitting to connect them. I plan on heating about 7 gal of 10% abv mash up to ~174'F for about 6-8 hours. If your interested PM me.
 
Back
Top