waffle's brewery build

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waffle418

I'm too drunk to taste this chicken ~ Colonel Sand
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Ok, I had a thread going, but for whatever reason the title wouldn't change so I'm going to start it clean.

I've got keggles set up weldless, I got the elements (2 5500 W) for Christmas last year and have been sitting on them all year. Finally got the electrician to come out Sunday and put a 100 Amp subpanel in the garage and set up the 50 Amp for starting the electric brewery. I'm going BCS as my WHOLE family no longer calls me for anything but Tech Support which is ok. I have the spare parts to build a small pc right next to the brewery to run everything and I'm going with PJ's design (huge thanks for everything you do for the electric guys) for the one below. That makes this just another build, but I'm going to try and document as best as possible.

BCS-460-wiring-2-4-c.jpg


I did have a question about what gauge wires for inside the box. I know they range greatly based upon the loads carried but I want to make sure I order enough of each gauge so I'm not running out to get more mid-build.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Put in a parts order for the plugs and the box... that went much quicker than I thought... this is not cheap :)
 
Thank you so much. I really hope that my diagram helps you in your planned build. If you have questions for me - or - changes to the diagram that you might need, please let me know.

P-J
 
I am modifying it just a bit as right now I don't plan on having 4 120v only 2. Just means 2 ssr and plugs don't need to be wired up. My question is what gauge should I be I using. It's the last thing I need to order before putting the controller together.
 
No pics yet as its still slowly trickling in. One thing I did have a question on P-J is the best way to have the backup wall wort. Should I wire it in to the line and plug it in if the BCS goes down? Also, I'm planning on doing most of the wiring in 8 gauge, is this excessive or not enough?
 
No pics yet as its still slowly trickling in. One thing I did have a question on P-J is the best way to have the backup wall wort. Should I wire it in to the line and plug it in if the BCS goes down? Also, I'm planning on doing most of the wiring in 8 gauge, is this excessive or not enough?

Been using the BCS for a year and its never "gone Down" although I ended up getting a regulated power supply that powers the BCS as well as the SSR's.

I use the BCS for fermentation and keezer control as well so I have the brewery controller separated out from the BCS so I dont need to worry about losing power for an e-stop.

build is here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/help-bcs-462-wiring-schematic-advice-376271/
 
What are the plugs for? Pumps? I would make more plugs available for elements than pumps. That way if you ever want to expand, you can easily do such by just adding an element. http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/images/smilies/occasion14.gif

The more Beluedog mentions his build, the more I listen to questions like yours ;)

Been using the BCS for a year and its never "gone Down" although I ended up getting a regulated power supply that powers the BCS as well as the SSR's.

I use the BCS for fermentation and keezer control as well so I have the brewery controller separated out from the BCS so I dont need to worry about losing power for an e-stop.

build is here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/help-bcs-462-wiring-schematic-advice-376271/

I have an old school freezer on an ebay controller already, which WILL sit right next to the brew space. It would be an easy switch to run it all on the BCS... stop tempting me. Im already pushing the budget already :p Hmmm... now I want to bounce LOTS of ideas off you. I like the possibility of having control from work. I've already set up a remote smoker for 2 different family members and I envision the BCS working very much the same way. Are you able to define the port which the BCS is set at or is it like a standard 80?

How much extra did the external BCS box run, how hard is it to connect for brew day?
 
The more Beluedog mentions his build, the more I listen to questions like yours ;)



I have an old school freezer on an ebay controller already, which WILL sit right next to the brew space. It would be an easy switch to run it all on the BCS... stop tempting me. Im already pushing the budget already :p Hmmm... now I want to bounce LOTS of ideas off you. I like the possibility of having control from work. I've already set up a remote smoker for 2 different family members and I envision the BCS working very much the same way. Are you able to define the port which the BCS is set at or is it like a standard 80?

How much extra did the external BCS box run, how hard is it to connect for brew day?

We have ours setup to be accessible over the web. You assign BCS a static ip on the network and then set up port forwarding on your router. We use 80 but you could use whatever you want that isn't reserved for something else.
We use it to monitor ferm temps and control ramps and cold crashing as well as turning on the HLT remotely on brew day.

I didnt keep track of how much the Ferm/BCS box ended up costing as I was sourcing for both boxes at the same time, but I would guess between 150-200. I def. like having them seperate and would do the build the same way if I were to do it again.
 
We have ours setup to be accessible over the web. You assign BCS a static ip on the network and then set up port forwarding on your router. We use 80 but you could use whatever you want that isn't reserved for something else.
We use it to monitor ferm temps and control ramps and cold crashing as well as turning on the HLT remotely on brew day.

I didnt keep track of how much the Ferm/BCS box ended up costing as I was sourcing for both boxes at the same time, but I would guess between 150-200. I def. like having them seperate and would do the build the same way if I were to do it again.

So, you run the temp probes into the BCS box, then from the BCS box, you run a cat5 into the controller box to turn on and off the SSRs to fire your elements? I'm wanting the ability to fire both at the same time, hence the 50 Amp setup, would I need to run 2 seperate cat5s to the controller box or could i use 1 still and just split the cables? I'm trying to visualize the adjustment because I'm interested. It may be something I do further down the road though as I've sunk about as much as allowed into the system already.
 
have 6 port cat 5 on both boxes.
On BCS/Ferm Box
1 cat 5 carries control of 4 ssrs as well as 6 volt positive and Negative
2nd cat 5 carries 4 temp wires.
4 ports are used for ferm/keezer temp probes
On brew Box
2 used to connect to bcs and 4 are used for temp (I have a bcs 462)

The temp and all low voltage wires share the same ground so once you run it to the brew you can share it. Make sense?
 
have 6 port cat 5 on both boxes.
On BCS/Ferm Box
1 cat 5 carries control of 4 ssrs as well as 6 volt positive and Negative
2nd cat 5 carries 4 temp wires.
4 ports are used for ferm/keezer temp probes
On brew Box
2 used to connect to bcs and 4 are used for temp (I have a bcs 462)

The temp and all low voltage wires share the same ground so once you run it to the brew you can share it. Make sense?

Totally. I have the 462 instead of the 460, so I dont really need the expansion correct? You've got me thinking about this more and more.
 
Nope you dont need the expansion.
probes were ordered from here

http://www.brewershardware.com/

Question about those. Do they still need the weldless bulkheads or does the NPT come with that. I guess I could also just change out my sight tube to a 3-way sight tube but I think I'd rather have one that is independent of any other fittings.
 
Question about those. Do they still need the weldless bulkheads or does the NPT come with that. I guess I could also just change out my sight tube to a 3-way sight tube but I think I'd rather have one that is independent of any other fittings.

I installed mine taking a page from theelectricbrewery.com

so order 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting
then used 2 washers to sandwich o-ring
washer (1-1/8" ID, 1-5/8" OD, 0.062" thick)
o-ring (13/16" ID, 1-1/16" OD, 1/8" thick)
washer (7/8" ID, 1-3/8" OD, 0.062" thick)

check out http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hot-liquor-tank?page=6
for detailed instructions.

It makes for a very clean install
 
So almost everything is here *happy dance*. Now I have to ask if anyone has ever recycled their immersion chiller into a hermes coil? I'm really considering this as I already have it and the hose blew on the last brew session and I'm itching for either a counterflow chiller or a plate chiller anyway :). I mean I feel like it would be easy to just put a couple compression fittings and some bulkheads and I'm good to go.
 
This is what I will be doing, I have 50' of 3/8 copper, hope its not too much for my pump,to push the wort
 
This is what I will be doing, I have 50' of 3/8 copper, hope its not too much for my pump,to push the wort

See I only have a 25' 3/8" copper IC and I'm worried that its not ENOUGH to keep it going. But there has been some progress. By progress, I mean there have been a Sh1tload of boxes delivered to the house. The dining room table is just completely scattered. I'm planning and replanning. I think the 16x16 is almost TOO much space for a BCS system, especially since I may be running the BCS independent of the control panel :)
 
P-J, I need your help. After thinking about my brew buddies, I've decided I want to put in a keyed on-off switch. I love the guys to death, but I fear they may flip a switch and the last thing I need is a toasted element when I'm not around. I would love to add a keyed switch with a light showing the power on. Any help would be great :)
 
P-J, I need your help. After thinking about my brew buddies, I've decided I want to put in a keyed on-off switch. I love the guys to death, but I fear they may flip a switch and the last thing I need is a toasted element when I'm not around. I would love to add a keyed switch with a light showing the power on. Any help would be great :)

You could add some SS float switches into the BK and HLT instead, wire them in series with the the signal power going in to the SSRs, which would prevent the SSRs / elements from firing when the liquid levels are too low.

So your brew buddies could hit as many buttons and switches as they like, but nothing's gonna happen.

And this would have the added benefit of protecting your elements during the brew day. It's pretty easy to get distracted by some other process while your HLT is draining into the BK, exposing the element to air while it's still on.

I added them onto my rig and I'm glad I did. Already saved my bacon once. Just a thought.
 
Hmmm that may work too. Which switches do you suggest and how did you run the wires for them back. I keep thinking about the placement of wires like theres going to be open flames. I know there wont be, but old habits die hard.
 
Hmmm that may work too. Which switches do you suggest and how did you run the wires for them back. I keep thinking about the placement of wires like theres going to be open flames. I know there wont be, but old habits die hard.

Auber instruments sells some nice SS float switches that have quick disconnects built onto the ends of them, so if you need to move the vessels for cleaning purposes you don't have to drag long wires around. I have the Auber SS float switches, but I bought them before they incorporated the QD connections, so I had to make some of my own using some mono audio plugs and jacks.

float2b.jpg
 
Auber instruments sells some nice SS float switches that have quick disconnects built onto the ends of them, so if you need to move the vessels for cleaning purposes you don't have to drag long wires around. I have the Auber SS float switches, but I bought them before they incorporated the QD connections, so I had to make some of my own using some mono audio plugs and jacks.

float2b.jpg

to bad im going BIAB because this would be perfect.
 
Auber instruments sells some nice SS float switches that have quick disconnects built onto the ends of them, so if you need to move the vessels for cleaning purposes you don't have to drag long wires around. I have the Auber SS float switches, but I bought them before they incorporated the QD connections, so I had to make some of my own using some mono audio plugs and jacks.

float2b.jpg

Can these be used in the middle of the kettle or do they have to be used at the top? I was looking for something to auto shut off pumps..... Any ideas?
 
Yes they can, no problem. BTW the float is flipable so that it can be used as a n/o or n/c switch.

P-J

I came across these awesome floats that were multi level, I thought those could be cool to use in HLT but wiring it up could be a disaster... I dont know.
 
Auber instruments sells some nice SS float switches that have quick disconnects built onto the ends of them, so if you need to move the vessels for cleaning purposes you don't have to drag long wires around. I have the Auber SS float switches, but I bought them before they incorporated the QD connections, so I had to make some of my own using some mono audio plugs and jacks.

float2b.jpg

I also noticed that auber put a gasket in for a weldless install. Anyone know off hand if this is food safe or should I just assume, I'll be replacing this.
 
to bad im going BIAB because this would be perfect.

I guess the question is whether you could mount it low enough that it is not much higher than the element, and would not snag the bag.

That said, I would think it would be quite difficult (though hardly impossible) to inadvertently dry fire with a single-vessel e-BIAB. After the boil, if you forget to turn the element off, it would be rather obvious. Perhaps if you do hop stands at lower temperatures after the boil, and use a chilling method other than an immersion chiller, it would be easier to forget, but not that easy. :)
 
I also noticed that auber put a gasket in for a weldless install. Anyone know off hand if this is food safe or should I just assume, I'll be replacing this.

Mine shipped with a clear silicone gasket. Pretty sure it's food safe.
 
My mess on my dining room table has started a migration to my family room. Brought the Panel in to start laying out switches and lights and the like. I have a buddy who vinyl wraps for a living and I believe we're going to wrap the box instead of painting. We have a whole day tomorrow of drinking and tailgating to discuss the idea... We first need to come up with a brewery name.
And so the decisions begin... I'm trying to leave room but I don't know why... and I went all Blue and Red... Blue for BCS, Red for Manual. Don't know why, just felt right ;)
5326f130-a1fb-407e-9a25-3385db167812.jpg
 
I just realized I hadn't posted ANY pictures to this thread. Here's my panel, well subpanel, I had installed in my garage. Its a 100-amp so I could put a couple more outlets in the garage as well :)

20131012_153837.jpg
 
Question for anyone that's used the BCS inside their control panel: How did you mount it? I'm thinking about using some 2-sided tape and sticking it in the sidewall to be out of the way and in case I do go with a 2nd, separate box, it would be easy to remove. Just curious what others have done.
 
Use some industrial Velcro... easy to remove, but should stay in place nicely

Brilliant! I am getting some right now ;) Just waiting on the last few pieces to decide how I'm going to lay out the box and then on to drilling the rest of the holes! I've laid out the inside probably a dozen times while trying to decide how I'm going to go with it. Picked up a couple DIN mounts for the contactors so that they can be mounted much easier and need less holes :)
 
Brilliant! I am getting some right now ;) Just waiting on the last few pieces to decide how I'm going to lay out the box and then on to drilling the rest of the holes! I've laid out the inside probably a dozen times while trying to decide how I'm going to go with it. Picked up a couple DIN mounts for the contactors so that they can be mounted much easier and need less holes :)

Since you're using DIN rails, I suggest getting some "DIN-Rail Mount High-Amp Distribution Blocks" from McMaster-Carr. I bought some 6367T22's from them. I used them for taking the big 6-gauge wires which were the power inputs for my panel and splitting those into four 10-gauge wires as power outputs, which ran to other sections of the control panel.

They take up a lot less space than the old-fashioned terminal blocks.
 
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