hey guys, I have my brewing setup in my partially finished garage. I love the ease of use of brewing with a cement floor, but with lots of spills and a hose spraying sometimes it gets pretty water logged on the floor. This has led to a slight issue with mold growing along the bottom of the wall where the drywall and molding meet the cement. This is obviously from water getting under, and sitting under the walls. My Question for you is what can i do to "splash" proof my walls? i want to cut out the old wall board that is moldy, i was thinking i could replace it with standard dry wall and put some sort of water proof cover over the wall such as something made out of the same material as a bath tub, i really have no idea to go about doing this. Any ideas?
splash proofing walls
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Dry Erase board.
Its cheap and they sell it at Home Depot. Its easy to clean up and you can take notes on it.
*Put up the Sheetrock and paint
*Use Liquid nails to hold the board on to the wall and drill in 4 corners
*You can put it up to waist high with a trim to make it functional or floor to ceiling to make it a note-board as well.
Works like a charm and should last YEARS!
Its cheap and they sell it at Home Depot. Its easy to clean up and you can take notes on it.
*Put up the Sheetrock and paint
*Use Liquid nails to hold the board on to the wall and drill in 4 corners
*You can put it up to waist high with a trim to make it functional or floor to ceiling to make it a note-board as well.
Works like a charm and should last YEARS!
There is drywall out there, I believe called greenboard that is designed to tolerate more moisture. Also, I would use a wall covering similar to what you might see in a restaurant kitchen or bathroom. I can't think of the name of it, but it is usually sold in 4x8 plastic sheets.
You can either use greenboard which is drywall with a special paper on it or cement board which is a cement product. I would go with cement board as it is superior for water repellent.
Cover the area you want to waterproof with FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Paneling) and caulk the seams, cover with plastic trim, and voila, waterproof wall. That's the way a lot of bars do it. If you want to get away from drywall, you can always use Wonderboard.
Don't mean to be such a dissenter, but cement board isn't water repellent. Installations using it still require a vapor barrier behind it. Greenboard is also just moisture tolerant but it really shouldn't get wet.
How high up does the mold go? If it's just like a surface coating you can brush some bleach water on there and then run a fan to dry it really well.
They make a thin white plastic wall board for laminating the interior of cold rooms and laundry rooms that would work well in this case. The key is to put a good bead of 100% silicone caulk at the floor joint.
How high up does the mold go? If it's just like a surface coating you can brush some bleach water on there and then run a fan to dry it really well.
They make a thin white plastic wall board for laminating the interior of cold rooms and laundry rooms that would work well in this case. The key is to put a good bead of 100% silicone caulk at the floor joint.
I'm not sure greenboard is really even moisture resistant, really just humidity resistant. The cement board, too, it's good for tiling because it'll stay together even if it gets wet, but it's going to absorb a lot of moisture.
PleasantValleyHops
Well-Known Member
edkittley said:
This is exactly what u want. Frp is great and u can get it at homedepot or lowes. U have to get all Componets with it amd use the correct glue right over drywall. Green board or purple(moisture,mold,mildew) resistance ive installed in dishrooms for restuarants caulk at the flr. Good luck with ur project. Frp by the way is 15$ a sheet 4x8 the glue is where is gets a little more money.
Clann
Well-Known Member
If I was going to do it on the cheap, I would paint the walls and baseboard with gloss latex paint and then caulk the baseboard
+1 on the cement board, I really wouldn't call it a water repellent though.
You still don't want to get it wet. If it were me, I would put some cheap tile on it. You could go the route of FRP or sheet vinyl, just run that to the floor. Keep the the cement board or whatever you decide off the floor at least 1/2". If you go with FRP you could either run a rubber base or use a vinyl molding. Either way use silicone caulk behind it before installing and run bead along the gap at the floor.
You still don't want to get it wet. If it were me, I would put some cheap tile on it. You could go the route of FRP or sheet vinyl, just run that to the floor. Keep the the cement board or whatever you decide off the floor at least 1/2". If you go with FRP you could either run a rubber base or use a vinyl molding. Either way use silicone caulk behind it before installing and run bead along the gap at the floor.
kpr121
Well-Known Member
FRP is close to 30 dollars a panel near me BTW. I wish it only cost me 15 bucks, or I would have my whole bar lined with it!
This! use the purple board... National Gypsum makes a product called XP gypsum board that is mold resistive, they also make a product eXP which is Extended Exposure mold resistive.
slap some FRP on that and you should be gold
sjvicker
Well-Known Member
I wish it was $15 as well!
This cost me about $100 but was well worth it. I didn't know about any special glue so I just used cheap liquid nails and overlapped the panels 1/2".
However if I had to do it again I would have tiled the whole wall
dubprocess
Well-Known Member
I wish it was $15 as well!
This cost me about $100 but was well worth it. I didn't know about any special glue so I just used cheap liquid nails and overlapped the panels 1/2".
However if I had to do it again I would have tiled the whole wall
I am trying to do the exact thing right now but I am wanting to glue it on and seal the sides. I am getting an external electrical line installed protected in a metal housing, do you think its ok to go through the fiberglass with nails or mounting brackets for the metal housing for my electrical? also do you have a better pic? I would love to see a little more detail on your fiberglass setup.
Esmitee
Well-Known Member
#1 bleach the bottom part of your existing Drywall, #2, dry hourly. #3, Paint the existing drywall with 2 coats of good exterior Latex enamel paint. # 4 Install an solid PVC trim board (AZEK)as a baseboard 3 1/2 " T 11 1/4". These boards would be 3/4" thick x whatever size you would choose. use pure silicone at the bottom where it hits the slab, and at the top where it lays against the drywall.Any drywall materials will get mold on them if moisture is trapped on them for some time. Cement board, duo rock, wounder board, aqua tough, etc... mold will grow on them, they just wont crumble if wet over time. I work with all these materials all the time in my home/Commercial building I do.. Over the past 3 months, I have torn apart many many buildings since the Super storm SANDY on LBI ,NJ and surrounding areas. I've seen all kinds of molds on many products. Hope this helps ALL.,
