Fixed my fermentation chamber by striking the relay/capacitor with a handle of

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Fixed my fermentation chamber by striking the relay/capacitor with a handle of
a large screwdriver.

Previous to that, the compressor relay just clicked. Fans and everything else worked.

After striking it, compressor fires up and it is cooling.

Do I trust it in the 100°F garage?
 
When reasonable means don't fix the problem the end of any blunt object, although it might not work, will at least make you feel better.
 
I think hitting something to make it work is like taking it apart, and then putting it back together. Sometimes it works, sometimes it's just a broke piece of ****e. Either way, YOU fixed it!
 
Is that a mechanical relay?

Either way, fixed or not, you won't KNOW, so you won't trust it.
 
Two things may have happened.
Loose connection
Relay contacts have built up carbon on the contacts (replace relay).

test: when the relay does not function (power on). Read voltage (voltmeter) at the output terminals. If the voltage has dropped or no voltage between input and output then the contacts have resistance from carbon (replace relay).
 
You need to be careful, if the relay was manufactured overseas you may need to get a metric screwdriver to do this properly. ;)
 
I can't vote given the choices but I'd try opening that relay up and lubing the mechanicals and sanding the contacts. If putting it back together is impossible, at least taking it apart revealed the condition and tells you whether buying a new relay would be worth it.

I doubt it's relevant but the simple act of taking apart and reassembling both of my Dakota's power door lock mechanisms have "fixed" them for over 3 years.
 
Loose connection
Relay contacts have built up carbon on the contacts (replace relay).

IMHO, you fixed one of the above two problems by smacking it. However, unless you fixed the loose connection(less likely I think, unless you bumped it previously to loosen it) it's still dying. You'll need to buy a new one soon.
 
Yea, I plan on doing a more thorough check and will get the compressor specs so that I can search for the proper start relay "kit" if there is one available. I do know that it's a 1/2 hp compressor.

Just to be clear, whacking it with the screwdriver handle wasn't done on a whim or out of frustration. It is an actual diagnosis/fix (albeit temporary) for this condition.

Google stuck relays or whacking the alternator with a wrench sometime.

It cycled many times over the night and held temperature.

We are getting some temperature relief over the next few days so I am crossing my fingers.

I removed the crown jewels from the unit, but I do have some things in there to create some thermal mass.
 
No argument there! In high school I had a K-5 Blazer with an f-ed up alternator. I carried a baseball bat in the back, b/c every once in awhile I had to whack the alternator to free it up so I could start it.
 
My grandmother bought me this old timey radio turntable thing(love her to death, but never use the thing and store it under my bed) and it did not work. You turned the volume all the way up and it was only barely audible. After looking at it by myself and with my father, he gave it a 'thunk' with his fist, and the noise immediately went to full blast. We nearly peed ourselves laughing so hard. It was a great gift for that experience alone. ;)
 
Prior to the magic whack PHX temperatures were in the triple digits with a high of 110 on Monday. Post whack highs today *might* reach 70.

Coincidence?
 
Prior to the magic whack PHX temperatures were in the triple digits with a high of 110 on Monday. Post whack highs today *might* reach 70.
Coincidence?

Did the whack activate the dilithium crystals and now your compressor is cooling the entire Phoenix megopolis?
 
Percussive maintenance (AKA mechanical agitation) is an acceptable repair method. Even works with $25,000 high-end audio gear (sometimes).

I'd suspect some corrosion was limiting the voltage/current getting to the relay & it wasn't latching.
 
Percussive maintenance (AKA mechanical agitation) is an acceptable repair method. Even works with $25,000 high-end audio gear (sometimes).

I'd suspect some corrosion was limiting the voltage/current getting to the relay & it wasn't latching.


I'm considering shortening the very lengthy cord on my ranco. The cord on the fridge is already pretty long.
 
I can't vote given the choices but I'd try opening that relay up and lubing the mechanicals and sanding the contacts. If putting it back together is impossible, at least taking it apart revealed the condition and tells you whether buying a new relay would be worth it.

I doubt it's relevant but the simple act of taking apart and reassembling both of my Dakota's power door lock mechanisms have "fixed" them for over 3 years.

Mine recently wouldn't unlock without really torquing the key and banging on the door in frustration. Was a very odd problem.

Of course, my dakota has been buried by a bulldozer, hauled ridiculously overweight loads of stone, been used to find large rocks in a snowy field while spinning donuts.... :) It's ugly as sin, with dents and no paint left on the room, but it runs like a champ.
 
A 1/2 HP under starting conditions has a high initial starting current.
I bet your problem is one if not up to four things wrong with the contacts.
First; the contacts are arc pitted real bad even when the contacts are closed you still have high resistance across the contacts. With fine sandpaper clean the contacts as well smooth away some of the pitting.
Second; the movable arm of the relay is bottoming out before the contacts are closed meaning the spring bronze arm holding the movable contact is not allowing a spring loaded presure for the contacts before the movable arm bottoms out against the coils magnetic base.
Third; the stationary contact is too far away from the movable arm contact, if you bend the arm to reduce the open contact gap you can solve item number two. If the stationary contact is fixed and can not be moved (bent) to reduce the open gap you will have to bend the movable arm closing this gap.
Fourth; the braided flexable wire connecting the terninal to the movable contact arm is broken. I don't think it's a broken coil wire as it is fine wire and your relay clicks. I have saved hundreds of dollars going thru relays out of adjustment on my LandRover by carefully taking them apart, cleaning contacts and 95% of the time it was contacts out of adjustment like no contact preload when relay was in NO or NC position. Make a note of any part numbers before going in incase they get removed, worse thing is a no can fix then just replace it. Call me cheap, a little time with a meter plus the coils vlotage supply is all it takes unless it's a cheap relay. Time is money thing or you don't feel safe working on the old relay. Some relays in the Rover and BMW are over $45 each.
Done babbling.
 
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