My BIAB, RIMS, E-Brewery-In-A-Can

First, a note of thanks to all these members for sharing their ideas and inspiring me.

Disintegr8or
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how-build-5-gal-110v-ebiab-kettle-304914/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-first-post-simple-ebiab-homebrew-journey-288663/

Seven
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-brewing-pics-233289/

DeathBrewer
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-stovetop-all-grain-brewing-pics-90132/

johnodon
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-official-e-biab-build-thread-269164/

aubicat
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ready-not-e-biab-here-i-come-312256/

Kal
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/

bargainfittings
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/

And the great guys at my LHBS
http://www.hoggetowne.com/


As noted in my other posts, space is at a premium for me and SWMBO frowns on any new hobby of mine. This is a problem since I suffer from a debilitating condition called MHD, Multiple Hobby Disorder. My build had to be multi-function, compact and easy to store. I believe I've accomplished what I set out to do.

I started out with the 44qt. Bayou Classic kettle with the basket. I was a bit disappointed to discover it was made in China and not as heavy as I hoped. But it fit the application. Of importance was the 3” of clearance under the basket and the lip inside the kettle that supported the basket. While the basket isn't necessary for BIAB, there's the chance that the kettle could serve multiple functions like boiling peanuts, crawfish or sous vide. The 3” clearance was also important for installation of the ULWD Camco element.

I didn't like any of the no weld options, my neighbor is a food safety scientist and I've learned a lot from him in regards to where bacteria can hide in minute places. Even more so, leaks concerned me, nothing would be worse than to have my first 8 gal. of mash in a leaky pot. Luckily I stumbled on Bobby_M's spuds at Brewhardware.com. Can't say enough good things about them, they make for a neat professional installation without any aggravation.




I began by carefully measuring, marking and drilling the holes to accept the spuds. I used Dewalt hole saws in lieu of Greenlee punches.

Dewalt 1-9/16 Saw & Arbor

Dewalt 1-1/16 Saw & Arbor

My first test was cutting a hole in a common coffee can. I figured if I could do that without shredding a tin can, then they would work on the kettle.



I drilled the holes using a drill press, I wouldn't dare try it by hand. I clamped some scrap 2x4's to the table and made a cradle, then centered the table in relation to the drill arbor. Each hole took about 15 seconds total cutting time and I used water based coolant.









I deburred the edges and I was GTG.

I simply tinned the spuds heavy with the recommend silver solder, fluxed the opening in the pot and with the pot cradled on it's side, I set the spud in place making sure the pot was level. I then heated the spud with a propane torch. I allowed the heat to transfer from the spud to the pot and when it was hot enough, it simply sat down in place. I touched up the gap with some solder and moved on to the next spud once it cooled. No distortion or discoloration in the pot. I was careful to make sure the element hole was high enough to allow the element to rotate during installation. Prior to soldering, I tightened the spud onto the element to the amount of compression I wanted on the gasket then I put a witness mark on the top of the spud with the element level. That way the element would be indexed when I soldered it. The element is just shy of the bottom of the basket when installed. The rest of the spuds were installed as low as possible but above the radius of the bottom.

There is a spud for the anode, the RTD, the valve and the heater element. I also soldered a ground lug below the heating element spud.







Had to have something that said Blingman



With the kettle finished, it was on to the controller. I already had a PID by Toky on hand. It was a spare I've had for several years, designed to drive an SSR with both a fuzzy logic and manual mode. I had a couple of spare 45A Opto22 SSR's. I decided to order the enclosure from Auberins, along with the heat sink, switches & RTD with the deluxe QD cable.

I picked up the Packard contactors from Amazon.

The plan was to build a compact controller. I used Unibits to drill all the holes, again carefully laying them out and using the drill press. I managed to find a smoking deal via eBay on a fifty foot 10ga 3 wire cord for $50 delivered. It already had a L14-30A plug on one end which was a bonus, I lopped it off and it became the pigtail for the heating element. The other end had a 3 outlet 120V splitter. I lopped it off, it will get a 120V plug for use around the farm. I purchased some additional L14-30A plugs & sockets via eBay. There is the typical dryer plug installed on one end and a L14-30A twist lock on the other.

The layout & configuration was far less complex than other builds. The E-Stop switch serves double duty as the master on/off switch. It switches a contactor that supplies the hot & neutral on the

buss strip for the rest of the control box.



The 3 position switch selects between the PID output, center off and the second contactor that simply shorts across the output of the SSR to provide 100% full on 240V to the element. A PWM control will be installed as soon as it becomes available in the next couple weeks. Details on it are hush-hush at the moment.

The Push button switch supplies power to a 12V 2A switch mode power supply that supplies the 12V DC to the Greatbrew pump. I didn't want a 120V circuit along with the 240V since my house is only a 3 wire system on the 240V side thus no neutral and I hate wall warts.



I opted for the pigtail approach for the control box instead of receptacles, due to both space constraints and cost. One pigtail supplies power to the contactor, the other connects to the heating element pigtail. The 12V DC lead has Anderson PowerPoles installed, there are inline fuse holders in both sides of the DC power leads inside the control box.





I found a “wire” drawer handle at Lowes and added it to the top of the enclosure.



One advantage of the controller is that I can use it for other applications, a smoker for example. All that's required is another RTD and a 240V heating element.

For the heating element pigtail, I used a 1” PVC slip to NPT coupler. The threaded side was smaller than the heating element insulator. I profiled the coupler in the mill to match the insulator. You can use a Dremel etc. Once it fit snugly, I drilled an angled hole at the bottom location of the fitting for the ground lead to exit.







I used a slip plug & bored a hole for a snug fit on the cord. I installed two ring terminals on the heater element and bent them at right angles so that the power leads would be straight when soldered and prevent the wire from being all bunched up. I soldered the pigtail leads to the ring terminals then pushed the PVC coupler over the element. I marked on each side of the coupler for screws to fasten it to the element insulator, taking care to choose the length and position them so that there was no way that they could short to the element. I installed one screw to secure the slip plug to the coupling. A quick check with the ohmmeter assured me that all was good. I've considered using some polyurethane adhesive but I like the fact that it's serviceable as is should I need to make a change.















For all the plumbing connections I used economical camlock connections.

Operation is straight forward. Fill the kettle with water, drop the basket in, put the bag in. Calculate the mash-in temp. Set the PID and let it go. When it reaches mash-in temp, bump the PID down to the mash-set temp, dough in. Connect the pump to the outlet, set the hose on top of the mash, set the lid on and start the pump.

In this application the pump is really important to keep the temperature of the mash uniform. The heating element is running the whole time with the PID constantly calculating for heat loss and compensating. Basically like RIMS. If it were done without the pump, I'd recommend turning off the heater and just insulating the kettle with a blanket for the duration of the mash.



Bump the temp up for mash-out. After mash out, turn the switch to the center off position. Turn off the pump and disconnect it from the kettle. Pull the basket & bag and let it drain & give it a squeeze. The ladder here served as my gantry to hang the basket.

Take a pre-boil gravity sample, measure the volume.

Start the boil. For the moment I've used 100% heat but it's way too much @ 5500W though I didn't have any issues with a caramelized element just a very foamy boil. 2 gal/hr boil off rate. Once the PWM is installed, it will be more controllable. Have to build a proper hop spider too.



Continue the boil & hop additions per SOP. At flame out, turn the switch to center-off, install the pump on the outlet, connect the plate chiller and recirculate while watching the temp drop on the PID.

When chilled, take a gravity sample, move the hose to the corney & fill the corney. Pitch the yeast, install the spunding valve and put it in the ferma-keezer and set the temp to the fermentation temp.

Cleanup involves dumping the trub from the kettle, rinsing, filling with some water, adding a scoop of PBW in the kettle, warm the water and run the pump. Back flush the chiller, clean the utensils, basket and hoses. Rinse & towel dry.

I've saved what I think is the best part for last.

First, I take the hoses, nine feet total and the RTD cable and put them in the bottom of the kettle.



Next I put in the basket and coil up the 50' power cord wiping it down as it goes into the basket.



Next I set in the controller, then the plate chiller, then the pump.






And finally the lid. Yes, everything stows in the kettle with room to spare.

The next slated project is a storage box on casters that the kettle will fit in. It will be 30” tall. The box lid will serve as the surface that the kettle will sit on during brewing, probably tile of some sort. On either side I plan flip up leafs that will serve as additional working surface, tile or stainless. A collapsible telescoping gantry will straddle the center cabinet and serve as a place to hang the basket when draining.

I'll probably make a few improvements for mounting the chiller and I'm thinking about making a mount of some sort to attach or hang the pump on one of the kettle handles. It's a bit long sticking out the front and I don't want to risk accidentally breaking a fitting.

ETA: Found some nifty rubber feet to put on my chiller:

Very impressive! This is exactly what I am about to build, but on a 2.5 gallon 110v level. Where did you order the cam locks from? Its great to see they work ok with the greatbreweh pump. Thanks for sharing your build.

Awesome job...Makes me want to throw mine in the garbage and start over.

Very nice. I'm going to start something similar very soon & you can never have enough references.

Very nice. I used to propane BIAB and was less than enthused. I really like my electric brutus20, but these tiny neat BIAB systems make me think twice; the recirculation and sturdy bag-lined basket would have solved all my BIAB gripes.

Very nice. The "everything fits in the kettle" aspect just floors me. That's awesome.

I prost your thread for sheer simplicity and ingenuity. Great work!

Very nice, how much experience did you have with doing the silver solder before you attempted this? I like the look of those over the weldless kits

I have spuds as well for the anode and element. I guess the only bad thing about the spuds is that they are "1-way" and you can't attach a dip tube on the inside of the pot. But they're great solutions for those who don't want weldless fittings. So much simpler to solder than the locknuts

Adeering said:

Very nice, how much experience did you have with doing the silver solder before you attempted this? I like the look of those over the weldless kits

Click to expand...

I've had moderate experience soldering, brazing and welding. If you can solder copper pipe, you can solder the spuds. The key is the flux & solder combo that has been discussed at length in the soldering stainless thread.

Great work on this, I am planning a similar system (albiet a bit smaller, for 2.5-3.5 gal batches) to serve as an easy pilot system for my 1/2BBL HERMS rig. Love the size and simplicity!

I've had literally 0 interest in BIAB threads up till now, this thing is pretty sweet. I would love to build a stove top version for smaller test batches.

Hows that great brew pump treating you?

Sorry if I missed it but the pot looks like stainless. If so, why the anode? Great build. Firing up my build using a 25 gal pot with 2, 5500W elements on Friday.

This is simply amazing. How much did everything cost you roughly? And how much on top of that would I need to pay you to build this for me?

I believe the anode is to protect the element from rust.

Roughly I'd say it cost around $500. Pot & Basket was $114, 10ga cord $50, $20 for the twist locks, another $100 for Auberins stuff. Spuds, camlocks, plate chiller, pump. I guess I ought to add it all up and see.

The anode is to protect the steel component of the element from rusting and any other active part that might be prone to corrosion. It wasn't my idea, it was detailed elsewhere on HBT. Plus the magnesium, what little gets liberated is good for healthy yeast growth.

The 5500W element is overkill for the application but it does get it up to temp in a hurry and it doesn't gunk up. The pump for circulation is mandatory because on a full kettle, it will have thermal striation and that drives the PID controller nuts. Easily 20 degrees overshoot without circulation.

Overall I'm real happy with how well it works, I pressure ferment in a corney so once it leaves the kettle, that's the last it sees of the outside world & air until it's in my glass.

I might make a stinger of sorts to put in the middle of the grain bed during mashing and I might open up the holes in the basket some. The last brew backed up on me twice because the bag got plugged. All it took was pulling the bag up just a little to clear the material. I was also stirring it and that seemed to contribute to the problem. Sort of like a stuck sparge but not as difficult to remedy. I'm also kicking around an idea in my head to replicate the up-flow circulation like the Speidel Braumeister.

You could easily replicate a 120V version for 2-2.5 gal that would work in a kitchen and store easily. Even mine would work well for an apartment or condo dweller, just unplug the dryer, plug in the pot & brew. You could probably set it on top of a converted mini-fridge, brew, fill a corney in the mini-fridge, pressure ferment, rack to a serving corney & dial down the mini-fridge to serving temp. You could dub it the "Broom Closet Brewery".

I'm trying to get circulation by manipulating the inner basket for flow. This constant flow reversal (up-down) should help keep things cleared.

BrewHaas said:

I'm trying to get circulation by manipulating the inner basket for flow. This constant flow reversal (up-down) should help keep things cleared.

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I thought of trying the same thing, using a variable speed gear motor to raise & lower the basket, for me it meant more work involved than using a pump.

I'm trying to be pump-less and eventually use fine screens on the top and bottom of my inner basket versus bags. Raising and lowering will keep the screens clear. Theoretically. Tommorow I'm just using a bag for its first use.

Sorry if I missed it, but what pump is that? Awesome build BTW!

Carlscan26 said:

Sorry if I missed it, but what pump is that? Awesome build BTW!

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It's the one sold by greatbreweh.com There are mixed reviews in another thread but I'm real happy with it for this application.

My first run with the 25 gal pot and 2, 5500W elements went well. The temp control was so nice. I will be going with a pump after more consideration.

Brewhass, can I ask what happened that you've decided to a pump? I'm in the process building a a10g ebiab and was hoping to avoid recirculating with a pump, I have pumps from my 3 vessel system but want to avoid the added complexity. Thanks in advance Jem

CS223 said:

It's the one sold by greatbreweh.com There are mixed reviews in another thread but I'm real happy with it for this application.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

Fine work indeed, really appreciated the detail on the spuds.

Regarding the pump, it hopefully solves a few issues. First though, instead of a cloth bag I want to equip my inner basket (solid sides) with a VERY fine upper and lower screen. A pump discharge will be placed under the basket to keep the grains in suspension. Before the end of the mash I want to reverse flow and try to build a bed to filter a bit but I'm pessimistic on that outcome. I do want to circulate post mash trough a filter to get some sediment out prior to the end of the boil. It may be that I'm grinding too fine but I'm tired of clogged filters when moving to the fermenter. Lastly I want to use the pump in chilling.

BrewHaas said:

Regarding the pump, it hopefully solves a few issues. First though, instead of a cloth bag I want to equip my inner basket (solid sides) with a VERY fine upper and lower screen. A pump discharge will be placed under the basket to keep the grains in suspension. Before the end of the mash I want to reverse flow and try to build a bed to filter a bit but I'm pessimistic on that outcome. I do want to circulate post mash trough a filter to get some sediment out prior to the end of the boil. It may be that I'm grinding too fine but I'm tired of clogged filters when moving to the fermenter. Lastly I want to use the pump in chilling.

Click to expand...

Basically like the Speidel Braumeister. I'm rolling around the idea in my head as well. Finding a stock pot that would be the same size as the basket and suspend in the same manner, fit a false bottom in it. In the center of the pot, weld in a tube that has openings at the bottom below the false bottom. At the top of the pot, below the rim, punch a series of holes around the circumference of the pot for the wort to return to the kettle. The top of the tube serves to secure the top screen in place with some simple fastener arrangement. And a qd arrangement of some sort on top of the tube inlet allows you to attach the pump. The first step is finding the pot to modify. Wonder if Bayou Classic would be able to special order an un-punched basket, think I'll shoot them an email and see.

You've got the general idea. I went with a different pot because I wanted thicker walls for ease of welding in sanitary fittings. I found a 25 gal pot in 1.2mm wall and rolled my own basket for a fit with a 1/4" gap. I'm glad that part is behind me as I am slow. The bayou Classic stuff looks good if weldless using a bag. Shooting for brew day #2 in 3 weeks.

Love the build! This is what I want my BIAB system to be. I have the same 44 quart pot/basket combo you do. Can you elaborate on the issue with basket? Does the basket restrict flow too much? If I actually grow a pair and attempt a real brewing DIY project like this, I will have plenty more questions for you. FWIW I moved out of Gainesville a little over a year ago. Hoggtowne Ale Works FTW!

Great build and great thread - thanks for compiling all this info! I have the same Bayou Classic 44 qt kettle and thought I would be limited to 3500W due to the kettle diameter (13.5" internal), but you've inspired me. Did you have any issues at all fitting the 5500W element? What kind of clearance does it leave on the far side?

Thanks!

oatc05 said:

Love the build! This is what I want my BIAB system to be. I have the same 44 quart pot/basket combo you do. Can you elaborate on the issue with basket? Does the basket restrict flow too much?

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What happened on one brew was that the bag plugged up at the holes. I don't know if it was too fine of a crush or the result of having the crushed grain stored in the freezer. All I had to do was just lift the bag a tiny bit and that was it. I was also stirring in the bag and it happened after the stir so I was no doubt stirring up the fines. There is a thread elsewhere where someone else enlarged the every other hole using a Unibit.

tjash said:

I have the same Bayou Classic 44 qt kettle and thought I would be limited to 3500W due to the kettle diameter (13.5" internal), but you've inspired me. Did you have any issues at all fitting the 5500W element? What kind of clearance does it leave on the far side?

Click to expand...

No issues fitting the 5500W element, it's close to the drain but by no means touching, you can also bend the element and spread it out. Using the spud instead of going with a no-weld option gains some clearance as well. The biggest issue is precisely measuring for the element hole. You have to have it positioned so that the element has room to spin when you install it. I measured it several times. It ends up very close to the bottom of the basket, almost touching but that isn't an issue and you can bend it down some to gain a little more clearance. I like to think that having the element extending across the pot to the drain is beneficial in keeping the flow moving over the element.

What is the max volume that this system will put out?

Caboth said:

What is the max volume that this system will put out?

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This is a 5 gal system, plus losses. I use corneys for pressure fermentation and kegging.

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

vinylicious said:

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

Click to expand...

I tinned the spud first, about as much solder as would look like a water drop spread out, maybe .040" thick then I let it cool, cleaned it with water and a brush and refluxed it. I fluxed the kettle then set the spud on the kettle opening then I applied the heat to the spud only being very careful not to oxidize the flux on the kettle with the flame. Apply the flame to the threaded hole of the spud. When the spud shifted & sat down and I saw solder flow to the kettle I went around the spud edge and filled in the gap with heavier & cheaper plumbing solder. I will say this, the flux that comes with Harris kit is the key, I ordered some special Stainless Ruby flux and it was terrible, totally useless.

vinylicious said:

When you soldered the welding spuds to the kettle, how much did you start with? I went through a ton of solder last night when i attempted my first joint. I tried to start with 2 wraps of solder around the index of the welding spud. As it heated up it started to sit down onto the kettle, but there where huge gaps around the edge of the welding spud.

Did you just fill in the gaps with solder after or is there another trick that I am missing?

Click to expand...

I used the solder/flux kit from AirGas which comes with pretty thin diameter solder. I started with two wraps, but had to add some more (re-applying flux each time). It took me a couple tries before I eventually got it water tight, and it even looks pretty decent. I'd call that a win considering it was my first time soldering with a torch.

I didn't tin the spud first, but I'm guessing that would have made life easier. And my hole was a bit too big; I used the Harbor Freight conduit-size hole punch, which makes a hole that is pretty loose on the spud. I couldn't find a 1-9/16" hole saw at Home Depot; next time I'll order one online.

what is the benefit of tinning?

Do you think that the basket goes low enough into the pot with grains to do 2.5 gal BIAB batches as well? Figure probably about 3.5 gallons of water pre-boil or so.

Thanks! I think I am going to make this exact build instead of dropping the money on the Braumeister. As sweet as that thing looks, I just can't get myself to spend that much money.

ekjohns said:

what is the benefit of tinning?

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Tinning virtually eliminates issues with oxides interfering with a solid bond. In the case of tinning the spud, it makes it easier to solder since you only have one surface, the pot, to contend with in regards to oxide formation. In addition, you have two dissimilar masses that you are trying to heat, the heavy spud and the thin pot, one will reach optimum temperature before the other. Overheating one can cause additional oxides to form and interfere with obtaining a good bond and smooth flow of solder.