No Chill hop help

9.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 75.0 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 8.3 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 8.3 %
1.00 lb Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 8.3 %
1.50 oz Williamette [4.80%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 24.5 IBU
1.00 oz Williamette [4.80%] (20 min) Hops 9.0 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [5.40%] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1 Pkgs SafAle California Ale US-05 (DCL Yeast #US-05) Yeast-Ale

Beer Smith says this is 33.5 IBU but it doesn't take into account for No Chill.

I'll be No Chilling and I'm curious what my actuall IBU will be from this hop schedule?

I'd like to end up w/ around 40 IBU's.

Thoughts/suggestions? thanks

Search. Someone on here has posted an empirically derived adjustment chart for IBUs from no-chill. It's out there somewhere.

that was The Pol and I am asking because I can't really make sense of his chart. I've read EVERY no chill thread on this site and on other sites and I am still having some issues wrapping my head around it, which is why I asked.

Keep your FWH the same and throw your 20 minute addition in at flameout.

Also, with the FWH addition, it may say that's what your IBUs are but it will be perceived differently. In beer smith I have my FWH calculated to 20 min additions.

So is it possible to get in an addition that's less than 20 min normal, but still in the boil (as opposed to dry hop)?

I ask because I just ordered a 5 gal container recommended by the huge No Chill thread and I AM EXCITED AS F*CK.

ghpeel said:

So is it possible to get in an addition that's less than 20 min normal, but still in the boil (as opposed to dry hop)?

I ask because I just ordered a 5 gal container recommended by the huge No Chill thread and I AM EXCITED AS F*CK.

Click to expand...

According to Pol's chart (which I use) anything under 20 minutes gets moved elsewhere. You should be excited, you can make excellent beer with this method.

Sorry I am so cryptic when I make charts

The chart is simple. Anything under 20 mins that is a flavor addition, gets added to FWH. Any aroma additions, are dry hopped. Keep in mind that along with flavor from the FWH... you will get about 30 mins. of IBU utilization, so you will have to reduce your qtys. when you move them to FWH to keep your IBUs in line. ProMash will do this for me, so it made it easy.

My Google-Foo sucks apparently. Can someone post the link to that chart again? I know I've seen it before, but I can't find it now. Gracias!

Here it is, it is also in my gallery.....

Awesome! Thanks man.

Bumping this up because I have a similar question which I can't find anywhere else, regarding Pol's chart, which I hope to start using soon with a no-chill batch.

I understand the reduction of times of hop additions until we get to the "FWH 30 min IBU" . I understand that I should add all 15m and 10m hops as FWH, but then what does the 30min IBU mean? Do I calculate what IBU's I'd get from the 15m and 10m hops, if they were a 30 min addition, and reduce my normal bittering hops (originally 60min, now 40min) by that amount of IBU's?

Also what does "transfer" mean: throw the hops in the kettle as I'm draining, or into the chilling cube and leave them there?

Then I assume dry hopping would be as normal, in secondary or keg.

And also: what temp are you leaving the cube at: 65-70F? or in a fridge, or what?

Sorry if this is too complicated but I haven't found simple answers to this anywhere.

-red

I'll chime in here just in case Pol or others with more experience don't. I believe your assumptions about the 30 min IBU from FWH is correct. So if you've got an ounce at 10 min, you do them as FWH, but you also figure out what IBUs you would have gotten from that ounce at 30 min and then reduce your bittering IBUs to account for that.

"Transfer" mean transfering the wort from the kettle into the no-chill cube. When you add hops at this point, they taste like a 20 min addition. Also, if you have a 30 min addition, for example, then you need to add those hops 10 minutes before your transfer to the cube, per Pol's chart. I missed this fact on my first no-chill batch and so my 30 min addition probably ended up just bittering the beer and not doing much for flavor.

Dry hopping occurs as normal, with the exception that you will probably dry hop more with no-chill brews than standard ones, only because your 5min or lower hop additions go in as dry hops instead.

I would not let my cube get colder than pitching temps, so for me that means 65-70F from room temp is fine. If you are doing a lager, then drop it to 50 or whatever you want to pitch at. I leave mine outside on cool nights and it drops to pitching temps by the morning.