Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

That's great when you make the same beer several times and get good results each time.



I'm waiting to hear if somebody ever entered this beer in a competition. For the category, I think it'd be an easy winner.

Ok I brewed this and it tastes great my only problem is that it came out very light in color. This looks more like Coors lite. Do I add more corn to get the more yellowish tint to it?

shadows69 said:

Ok I brewed this and it tastes great my only problem is that it came out very light in color. This looks more like Coors lite. Do I add more corn to get the more yellowish tint to it?

Click to expand...

There are a several ways to do this. Here are three methods

1. The easiest being add more 6-row or 2-row
2. add some crystal malt (10L-60L) in very small amounts
3. add an 1/8oz of black or black patent malt.

The corn adds no color.

Thank you

Made a 15 gallon batch of this and rounded up the grain bill to full pounds (6 pounds of each). Hopped it a *lot* with 6 oz of cascade at 60 minutes, so we'll see how this goes! Sitting in secondary right now around 1.005 with a week and a half to go. Definitely going to be different than the original, I'll let you know how it turns out.

DrinkDR said:

Made a 15 gallon batch of this and rounded up the grain bill to full pounds (6 pounds of each). Hopped it a *lot* with 6 oz of cascade at 60 minutes, so we'll see how this goes! Sitting in secondary right now around 1.005 with a week and a half to go. Definitely going to be different than the original, I'll let you know how it turns out.

Click to expand...

It will be a brisk refreshing beer. A one of a kind!

I've been wanting to brew this for quite a while but not until I was kegging. This will most likely be my next brew. I'm thinking about using Motueka hops.

Thanks for the recipe. This was my first shot at all-grain brewing and had to sub the 6-row for a total of 5pds of 2-row and went 2 pds of corn and the LHBS didnt have whole cascade so I did a cascade pellets 1/2 oz at 60min and 1/2 oz at 2 min . Hit an OG of 1.032 so i guess I'm off to a good start. Hopefully i didn't butcher it up too bad.

jprice said:

Thanks for the recipe. This was my first shot at all-grain brewing and had to sub the 6-row for a total of 5pds of 2-row and went 2 pds of corn and the LHBS didnt have whole cascade so I did a cascade pellets 1/2 oz at 60min and 1/2 oz at 2 min . Hit an OG of 1.032 so i guess I'm off to a good start. Hopefully i didn't butcher it up too bad.

Click to expand...

I guess you are good to go. You hit the target. The hardest part now is the wait. I think you will be impressed on how good this beer is compared to ordinary BMC Lagers. Just be sure to let the amylase enzyme do its job an then carb and wait again for the beer to cold condition a week or two.

Getting ready to transfer this to secondary...still got airlock bubbles so i might wait till 8 or 9 days primary to transfer. My LHBS recommended beano just as you had in an earlier response. How many beano capsules do you think would be sufficient?

jprice said:

Getting ready to transfer this to secondary...still got airlock bubbles so i might wait till 8 or 9 days primary to transfer. My LHBS recommended beano just as you had in an earlier response. How many beano capsules do you think would be sufficient?

Click to expand...

Don't know. I have always use AE. Roughly one tsp is needed for AE.

jprice said:

Getting ready to transfer this to secondary...still got airlock bubbles so i might wait till 8 or 9 days primary to transfer. My LHBS recommended beano just as you had in an earlier response. How many beano capsules do you think would be sufficient?

Click to expand...

My lhbs tells me 3 crushed beano tablets is the recommended .

Sorry I missed this one -- what is the Bean-o for???

MikeRoBrew1 said:

Sorry I missed this one -- what is the Bean-o for???

Click to expand...

Beano works the same as amylase enzyme.

Don't know. I have always use AE. Roughly one tsp is needed for AE.

Click to expand...

Wish i could get the AE, but the shipping costs from Midwest would kinda put me over budget on this beer.

My lhbs tells me 3 crushed beano tablets is the recommended .

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.

AW or Beano is used to dry out the beer, make it super light and crisp. It takes complex sugars and converts them further so the beer can ferment to 1.000.

Has anyone made this with lager yeast?

I made a beer very similar to this for my father-in-law.

6 LBS of 6-Row
3 LBS of Flaked Maize

Mashed @ 126 for 30 Min
Mashed @ 148 for 90 Min

Boiled 60 Min

Perle Hops 1 oz @ 60 Min
Hersbrucker .5 oz @ 15 Min

Wyeast Staro Prauge Yeast Cake

It's in primary now.

I plan on leaving it in the primary for 2 weeks (until fermentation slows) and then transferring to secondary and trying enzymes. After that I will slowly crash the beer down to 34 degrees and hold it there for a minimum of 2 - 3 months. Then it's bottling time.

I have used enzymes before in my mash but never in the secondary. Has anyone on here played with using enzymes with lager yeast?

I have made cream ale before with US-05 with great results. I really like that for cream ale. I also made the same beer with 1056 American Ale yeast from Wyeast with decent results. It did have a noticeable difference in flavor though. I favor the US-05 over 1056 for cream ales.

FYI for those looking for enzymes, I typically stock them in my shop. Email me for more details. mountbaldybrewing at gmail dot com.

Cheers ,

Joe Gill
Mount Baldy Brewing Supply
www.mountbaldybrewing.com/zencart/
406-241-2087

Ozzfest05 said:

Beano works the same as amylase enzyme.

Click to expand...

Except the amylase will stop, the beano will break everything down and takes FOREVER. I had a Cream Ale in secondary for months (at room temp) on some beano tablets and after bottling it over carbed. It was like drinking club soda with esters, even after uncapping and recapping trying to avoid bottle bombs.

I made this and it turned out pretty good other then the dry hopping. I dry hopped in the keg for a week and it made the beer have an extremely bitter flavor. No idea why. It's like the hops were bad or something.

Just racked it over to secondary with a reading of 1.002 before the amylase/beano. Snuck a taste of the hydrometer sample and noticed that I think you mis-named this beer a clone. It is much better than a Miller lite even now, I cant imagine how good it will be in another
3-4 weeks.

IPAAAA said:

I made this and it turned out pretty good other then the dry hopping. I dry hopped in the keg for a week and it made the beer have an extremely bitter flavor. No idea why. It's like the hops were bad or something.

Click to expand...

Did you use aroma hops or a dual aroma and bittering hop? It might have been the hops, but dry hopping, usually adds no bitterness. The good thing though if the taste came from the dry hopping it will dissipate with time.

jprice said:

Just racked it over to secondary with a reading of 1.002 before the amylase/beano. Snuck a taste of the hydrometer sample and noticed that I think you mis-named this beer a clone. It is much better than a Miller lite even now, I cant imagine how good it will be in another
3-4 weeks.

Click to expand...

Yeah I know, you aren't the first to say its better. I dreamt this up during March Madness. The Miller Lite commercials were driving me crazy about the triple hopping and more taste, and man up ********. Not too mention, I borrowed the base recipe from Charlie Papazian. Subbed the hops and yeast to suit my needs.

SwampassJ said:

Except the amylase will stop, the beano will break everything down and takes FOREVER. I had a Cream Ale in secondary for months (at room temp) on some beano tablets and after bottling it over carbed. It was like drinking club soda with esters, even after uncapping and recapping trying to avoid bottle bombs.

Click to expand...

Hmmm this seems like very important info and a really great reason to get some AE.

Schlenkerla said:

Did you use aroma hops or a dual aroma and bittering hop? It might have been the hops, but dry hopping, usually adds no bitterness. The good thing though if the taste came from the dry hopping it will dissipate with time.



Yeah I know, you aren't the first to say its better. I dreamt this up during March Madness. The Miller Lite commercials were driving me crazy about the triple hopping and more taste, and man up ********. Not too mention, I borrowed the base recipe from Charlie Papazian. Subbed the hops and yeast to suit my needs.

Click to expand...

I used only cascade...that is why it's weird. It was just wayyy to strong for the beer but I don't know if the hops have freezer burn or what because it tasted funny.

IPAAAA said:

I used only cascade...that is why it's weird. It was just wayyy to strong for the beer but I don't know if the hops have freezer burn or what because it tasted funny.

Click to expand...

How old is it now? Is it kegged? AE often has a dry patched taste when young, maybe that's what you are tasting.

Schlenkerla said:

How old is it now? Is it kegged? AE often has a dry patched taste when young, maybe that's what you are tasting.

Click to expand...

The better was only kegged for a little bit and then drank right away. Hops only sat in the keg for a week. Don't think that would dissipate with time...think it would get worse the longer the dry hops were in there. What do I know tho.

IPAAAA said:

The better was only kegged for a little bit and then drank right away. Hops only sat in the keg for a week. Don't think that would dissipate with time...think it would get worse the longer the dry hops were in there. What do I know tho.

Click to expand...

I was assuming you dry hopped in the secondary. I never dry hop in the keg. I think most people use a secondary. Yeah, it would be more hoppy but in aroma, not bitterness unless you were drinking hop lupilin sediment.

I made my first batch of this recipe without any dry hopping. It's been in the keg for about a week. I must say I think it was better dry hopped. I am now considering dry hopping in the keg with whole hops in a muslim bag.

MikeRoBrew1 said:

I made my first batch of this recipe without any dry hopping. It's been in the keg for about a week. I must say I think it was better dry hopped. I am now considering dry hopping in the keg with whole hops in a muslim bag.

Click to expand...

Do yourself one better. Make a Randall. Basically a water filter without the filter. You replace the filter with hops.

Forgive me.... I'm new to Promash recipes...

I don't understand how much water to use? No matter how I add it up, it doesn't come out right.... Can someone explain?
Thanks in advance

Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 5.50
Water Qts: 7.43 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 1.86 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.35 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 147 Time: 90
Mash-out Rest Temp : 175 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 175 Time: 10


Total Mash Volume Gal: 2.30 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.

ColeBeer78 said:

Forgive me.... I'm new to Promash recipes...

I don't understand how much water to use? No matter how I add it up, it doesn't come out right.... Can someone explain?
Thanks in advance

Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 5.50
Water Qts: 7.43 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 1.86 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.35 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 147 Time: 90
Mash-out Rest Temp : 175 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 175 Time: 10


Total Mash Volume Gal: 2.30 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Fahrenheit.

Click to expand...

The quarts or gallons are as stated. The mash volume is water plus grain. So this is the space required. I typically sparge with twice the dough in amount. So about 15 quarts.

The sparge is what I was getting confused on. I would imagine that amount will vary based on my equipment? Dead spaces and such..... I'm gonna attempt to punch this into beersmith and convert it to a 10gal batch and see how it goes. This will be my first time constructing a recipe in beersmith, and this will be my first all-grain batch. I figure its a good affordable beer to test out my new rig on... Thanks! Wish me luck!

FYI - To make things very easy I use 1.33 quarts water per pound of grain for mashing. Then 2.66 quarts per pound of grain for batch-sparging. Yes you would need to compensate for water loss. Grain absorption, dead spaces, plus water loss in the boil.

I am making this using BIAB getting min 80% efficiency. I have adjusted the IBUs a little to suite my tastes. I like it a little more bitter.

If I left the IBU alone what style would this beer fit into? Is there a style for this?

I've made minor adjustments to the hops over 6 batches and its delicious!

What style could it fit in? Is it just Light Hybrid Beer? Light Ale?

Is there a tool to give you the style if you just add ingredients?

StinkyVp said:

I am making this using BIAB getting min 80% efficiency. I have adjusted the IBUs a little to suite my tastes. I like it a little more bitter.

If I left the IBU alone what style would this beer fit into? Is there a style for this?

I've made minor adjustments to the hops over 6 batches and its delicious!

What style could it fit in? Is it just Light Hybrid Beer? Light Ale?

Is there a tool to give you the style if you just add ingredients?

Click to expand...

Officially, its in the cream ale or kolsch style categories. I'm guessing its much lower than those styles. Try googling BJCP for style guidelines.

I made two batches of this, and am not fully happy with either. I keep getting a noticeable sweet after-taste.

In the first batch, I had boosted the gain bill to an even 2 pounds each of flaked maize and 6-row. After I ended up with this sweet aftertaste, I reduced the corn back down to 1.75 pounds for the second batch, while keeping the 2 pounds of 6-row. I also skipped dry-hopping the second batch. While the sweet aftertaste was diminished, it was still present in the second batch.

Both batches did show a reduction in gravity in secondary after addition of the Alpha Amylase Enzyme, finishing around 1.007. I wonder if I either didn't add enough AAE, or if the yeast gave up before the AAE was done working. However, the theory of the yeast giving up has a strike against it since the carbonation was even and as-expected following priming and bottle conditioning.

ajfranke said:

I made two batches of this, and am not fully happy with either. I keep getting a noticeable sweet after-taste. .............


........... Both batches did show a reduction in gravity in secondary after addition of the Alpha Amylase Enzyme, finishing around 1.007. I wonder if I either didn't add enough AAE, or if the yeast gave up before the AAE was done working. However, the theory of the yeast giving up has a strike against it since the carbonation was even and as-expected following priming and bottle conditioning.

Click to expand...

Probably the most important thing here is to make sure you are really hitting the IBU target. If are getting any sweet taste its because you missed the target. Since is a light beer slight changes in the hop schedule, grain bill or mash efficiency you can under or overshoot the bitterness target. 16-18 IBU should be balanced.

Also your FG should be 1.000. You should use S-05. After 1 week rack to the secondary on top of AE.

Try to use a recipe calculator to tweak recipe modifications. Goto, http://www.recipator.com if you don't have your own software.

Hopefully the 3rd try is the charm.

ajfranke said:

I made two batches of this, and am not fully happy with either. I keep getting a noticeable sweet after-taste.

In the first batch, I had boosted the gain bill to an even 2 pounds each of flaked maize and 6-row. After I ended up with this sweet aftertaste, I reduced the corn back down to 1.75 pounds for the second batch, while keeping the 2 pounds of 6-row. I also skipped dry-hopping the second batch. While the sweet aftertaste was diminished, it was still present in the second batch.

Both batches did show a reduction in gravity in secondary after addition of the Alpha Amylase Enzyme, finishing around 1.007. I wonder if I either didn't add enough AAE, or if the yeast gave up before the AAE was done working. However, the theory of the yeast giving up has a strike against it since the carbonation was even and as-expected following priming and bottle conditioning.

Click to expand...

Did you check mash PH and for conversion? Sound like you have a mash problem. The corn may not be fully converting. My last batch I did the ph was a little high and it to 2hrs to covert fully

Jbt said:

Did you check mash PH and for conversion? Sound like you have a mash problem. The corn may not be fully converting. My last batch I did the ph was a little high and it to 2hrs to covert fully

Click to expand...

Good point! 6 row is also high in enzymes. If there is a substitution made more 6 row should be added or use, AE in the mash too.

Fwiw I use 5 buffer solution to make sure i hit the 5.2 pH target.

Schlenkerla said:

Good point! 6 row is also high in enzymes. If there is a substitution made more 6 row should be added or use, AE in the mash too.

Fwiw I use 5 buffer solution to make sure i hit the 5.2 pH target.

Click to expand...

What about sparge water?? Do you treat that to? Your sparging with 5.5gal total. Because of the small grain bill I'm sure the ph is not changing much.

If you can wait 4 months, this beer will drop ultra clear just like the real thing, only better tasting!