OK, so I have successfully scorched three batches of brew through my rims tube. It is only when I try to bring the mlt temp up due to a miscalculation. I went to the big orange box store today and purchased a camco 4500 watt ulwd element. I tried the 5500 watt version first and burnt my first batch with it. Thats when I decided to try the 4500 watt version. I have seen model numbers for a 02923 element. I got this one back to m work and couldn't help looking at it. The model number opposite the voltage and wattage rating says "camco 02922". I tried googling this model number and can't find anything on it. It says Ultra Low Watt Density on the package, but I am a little hesitant cuz I dont want to scorch another batch and waste more grain. I am using a rims tube made out of stainless 1.5" pipe yada yada. Whats up with the model #???
Am I just dumb???
- Thread starter djsethall
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Not sure about the model numbers, but if you are scorching so easily something else is wrong. Are you getting good, unrestricted flow?
Take a look at my recent "rims tube heat issue" thread... I have a similar problem and I think it may be due to "dead space" in the tube... insufficient flow causing the liquid near the probe to not mix with liquid passing over the element.... Not sure yet, though.
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djsethall
Well-Known Member
Just read your thread. It makes me wonder a bit about my setup. I will post a pic of what's going on on Thursday. Or if you look in my gallery, you can see my rims tube setup. I have it oriented vertical, not horizontal. One thing I did notice just prior to smelling the horrible smell of burnt wort was there was bubbles in the output line of my mlt. Could that have caused an air pocket in the rims tube that would lead to the scorching of the wort???
are you using your rims tube for anything other than maintaining mash temps? I'm building mine now, and have yet to actually use it, but I'm only using a 1500W element, and I'm sure that is still plenty of power to bump the water a few degrees here and there. 4500W/5500W is great for boiling and HLT, but I would argue its overkill for a RIMS tube, and knocking it down to 1500 or similar might save you more headaches.
indeed 4500+ watts is way overkill for simply maintaining temperature, if thats all its being used for. when power is applied, it takes some time to heat the liquid and register the temperature change on your controller. a 4.5kW element is going to cook the wort before that temp change is registered.
a smaller element would have less of a temp difference between the element and the temp sensor. using a smaller element also doesnt hammer your SSR as much with constant short on/offs because it can be left on for longer durrations, and theoretically you should be able to use a much tighter temperature hysterisis.
a smaller element would have less of a temp difference between the element and the temp sensor. using a smaller element also doesnt hammer your SSR as much with constant short on/offs because it can be left on for longer durrations, and theoretically you should be able to use a much tighter temperature hysterisis.
I had the same model number issue with a 5500W element. This here is supposedly Camco 02963. I decided not to worry about it.
I have read here somewhere that you can limit the maximum power allowed by the PID (you are using a PID, right?). You could set it to lower than 100% and it will act like a lower power element. Use the shortest time interval of the PID.
I have read here somewhere that you can limit the maximum power allowed by the PID (you are using a PID, right?). You could set it to lower than 100% and it will act like a lower power element. Use the shortest time interval of the PID.
