So I am quite new to brewing. I am attempting to brew a pilsner, 5 gallon batch, approximately ½ extract and ½ grain. The recipe indicated to follow the pitching directions on the yeast packet and then ferment for two weeks at 50F. The yeast packet (Wyeast pilsner if memory serves) indicated to pitch the yeast wait until the air lock starts bubbling, then follow the recipe directions. So once it started bubbling and healthy fermentation started to take place, I moved it to the garage where it is about 50F. The fermentation immediately stopped, but I let it hang out for the two weeks. So I brought it inside last night with plans to rack to a secondary tonight. This morning it was bubbling away like it was in its first 12 hours. What gives? I thought that type of yeast was supposed to be in a cooler environment. Should I have let it finish bubbling then move to 50F for two weeks?
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- Thread starter Momo
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Suthrncomfrt1884
Well-Known Member
1st question...did you make a starter. Lagers require a LOT more yeast than one wyeast packet. 3-4 packets or a large starter is what should have been used.
Also, your wort should have been cooled down to about 50 degrees before you pitched the yeast. This will get your yeast used to those cold temps and then they'd do fine. Lagers also take a lot longer to get going and fully ferment. 1 month in primary is almost always necessary.
Second, do you have a way to keep that beer at 34-36 degrees to officially "lager" it?
Also, your wort should have been cooled down to about 50 degrees before you pitched the yeast. This will get your yeast used to those cold temps and then they'd do fine. Lagers also take a lot longer to get going and fully ferment. 1 month in primary is almost always necessary.
Second, do you have a way to keep that beer at 34-36 degrees to officially "lager" it?
Hmmm. No the recipe only called for one packet, though it did say yeast and starter on it. I cooled it to about 60F as indicated on the packet, nothing really happened until it warmed to about 68F at which point I moved it to a cooler area. I can’t officially lager it, the recipe called for 6-8 weeks in a secondary at 50F, which is why I chose this recipe in the first place.
You might want to consider making a kolsch or another lager-like ale. They are much less temperamental and take much less time to condition (and condition in warmer temperatures). I only say kolsch b/c it drinks like a lager/pilsner but is actually an German Ale.
As far as this beer, what was the OG? what is the gravity now? I would leave it in the 60F range for a week and make sure the gravity doesn't drop. If he reading is 1.02+ it needs more time...either way give it 2+ more weeks before even thinking about bottling. Expect it to take a month+ of conditioning at cold temp (30-40) before its very drinkable.
This is why I love ales. Primary for 3 weeks and bottle/keg for 2 more...and because they condition at warmer temps, they condition much faster...
Good luck and enjoy
As far as this beer, what was the OG? what is the gravity now? I would leave it in the 60F range for a week and make sure the gravity doesn't drop. If he reading is 1.02+ it needs more time...either way give it 2+ more weeks before even thinking about bottling. Expect it to take a month+ of conditioning at cold temp (30-40) before its very drinkable.
This is why I love ales. Primary for 3 weeks and bottle/keg for 2 more...and because they condition at warmer temps, they condition much faster...
Good luck and enjoy
Suthrncomfrt1884
Well-Known Member
Ales are nice, but there's nothin' better on a summer day than a nice pilsner or a light bock. I just brewed a dopplebock that looks to be an award winner.
OP, do you have access to a spare fridge? Even if it won't fit your fermenter in, there are ways to cool down your beer. Leaving it at 60F will probably get the job done, but you'll be left with some off flavors because of high fermentation temps. My suggestion is find the coldest place in the house and leave it there for a month. The yeast is obviously working, so just let it do it's thing.
Any time you change temps on a lager, it takes awhile for it to regain momentum again. For instance...my dopplebock I have going: I had it sitting in my garage (climate controlled) at 52F. Over the last few days we've had fairly nice weather and the temps in the garage climbed to 55F. Just the 3 degree up and down in 24 hours caused my fermentation to slow a bit. This is based on airlock activity which I probably shouldn't be using as an example.
OP, do you have access to a spare fridge? Even if it won't fit your fermenter in, there are ways to cool down your beer. Leaving it at 60F will probably get the job done, but you'll be left with some off flavors because of high fermentation temps. My suggestion is find the coldest place in the house and leave it there for a month. The yeast is obviously working, so just let it do it's thing.
Any time you change temps on a lager, it takes awhile for it to regain momentum again. For instance...my dopplebock I have going: I had it sitting in my garage (climate controlled) at 52F. Over the last few days we've had fairly nice weather and the temps in the garage climbed to 55F. Just the 3 degree up and down in 24 hours caused my fermentation to slow a bit. This is based on airlock activity which I probably shouldn't be using as an example.
Hi Momo. Is this your first brew? If so, I would suggest that you start off with an easier recipe/style. This way, you can learn the basics and then move on to lagering - as indicated above, lager yeast behaves differently than ale yeast, requires more attention, the ability to make a starter, etc.
I always suggest that first time brewers start with a basic pale ale, using extract and steeping grains (not a partial mash). Learn the basics, make a good beer, and build from there.
I always suggest that first time brewers start with a basic pale ale, using extract and steeping grains (not a partial mash). Learn the basics, make a good beer, and build from there.
Catch-22
Well-Known Member
All yeast will be more active at warmer temperatures so that could be why it started up again. I could also have been the CO2 coming out of solution at the warmer temp.
Does your garage maintain a steady 50F or does it fluctuate? Yeast get stressed with a continuous temperature change and they could have just dropped out on you.
I personally will not pitch less than 2000ml starter or about four liquid packages on a lager. Usually two on a ale depending on the style.
Gravity reading will tell but I'm guessing that the airlock activity was just due to CO2 coming out of solution as it warmed up.
I don't condition my lagers at 38, because I don't want to tie up my ferm cabinet for 6-8 weeks for one batch. I do primary at 50, short D-rest at 57, and then step down to 42*F for a week or two before kegging. My kegerator sits at 42*F so it serves as my lagering fridge.
I don't condition my lagers at 38, because I don't want to tie up my ferm cabinet for 6-8 weeks for one batch. I do primary at 50, short D-rest at 57, and then step down to 42*F for a week or two before kegging. My kegerator sits at 42*F so it serves as my lagering fridge.
Suthrncomfrt1884 - I don’t have a fridge but I do have an old coal room that stays pretty cool, 50 -55F. So I guess I should gather that just because it is not bubbling away like crazy and looking like fresh poured Guinness doesn’t mean it is not working the way it is supposed to.
Pappers - It is not my first. I have done three ales, thought one came out flat - I have a question about that as well. All were extract, basic kits from the home brew store, the two that were not flat were quite good.
The having good beer part was great but I found the limitations of the extract with steeped grains repetitive and frustrating. I know quite a bit can be done with extract brewing but extract beer always tastes like home brew. Not necessarily a bad thing, I just want my beer to taste and look like really good beer not really good home brewed beer.
My other question though. The batch that came out flat was a pale ale, extract with steeped grains. It went for three weeks in the primary and about four in a secondary. In the carboy it was a beautiful super clear amber color – I was pumped. Six weeks later in the bottles, it is flat. Does too much time in a primary or secondary let too much suspended yeast settle out, thus leaving nothing to eat the priming sugar?
Thanks a lot everybody’s responses by the way.
The having good beer part was great but I found the limitations of the extract with steeped grains repetitive and frustrating. I know quite a bit can be done with extract brewing but extract beer always tastes like home brew. Not necessarily a bad thing, I just want my beer to taste and look like really good beer not really good home brewed beer.
My other question though. The batch that came out flat was a pale ale, extract with steeped grains. It went for three weeks in the primary and about four in a secondary. In the carboy it was a beautiful super clear amber color – I was pumped. Six weeks later in the bottles, it is flat. Does too much time in a primary or secondary let too much suspended yeast settle out, thus leaving nothing to eat the priming sugar?
Thanks a lot everybody’s responses by the way.
how much priming sugar are you using (should be 4-5 oz per 5 gallons). There should still be plenty of yeast to prime be that seems like a long time if it's not a big brew (high gravity)...I would say leave it 3-4 weeks in primary and bottle...you can always age/condition in the bottle. kudos to your patience brother
The longer you let the beer clear before bottling will have an effect on how long it takes to carb but there should still be enough yeast in there to do the job. I have had beers that I left in the secondary for over a month and I had trouble too, I found that inverting the bottles to rouse up the yeast once a day for a week or so seemed to help speed the process. You can also just wait it out. I had one beer take about 2 months before it was carbed and even then it was bout 10-12 weeks before it was at the proper level.
