My 2.5 Vessel E-Herms build

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wilfonzo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Messages
136
Reaction score
2
Location
Clearwater
I'm starting my new brewery build. It is going to be a hybrid of sorts, I will be using the Brutus-20 method with a dedicated E-Herms heat exchanger using a 3 gallon corny keg. I started getting the electronics in, but I'm still looking for a control panel that I like.
aR9zv.jpg

I went with the cheaper JLD612's from lightobject.com, so I will have to change this diagram again.
zrG2T.jpg

The future HEX: the element will be through the bottom.
Msdzj.jpg

I'm still polishing the kegs... more pics and probably plenty of questions to come.
 
some progress
rAIF1.jpg

riGAI.jpg

waiting for the epoxy to dry on the contactor and terminal strips and also have to install the fan, SSR, plugs for power in/out, add the 12v transformers for the pumps, and wire it all up. I also installed the fuses, pics of that later.
 
Well, I thought I just finished. I plugged it in and everything worked for a few moments, then it blew the breaker. Now every time i plug it in the breaker blows right away. None of the fuses blew. What could it possibly be?
 
Well, I thought I just finished. I plugged it in and everything worked for a few moments, then it blew the breaker. Now every time i plug it in the breaker blows right away. None of the fuses blew. What could it possibly be?

Stray wire earthing out? Got a wiring diagram to help us out?
Run a continuity check between the live and earth prongs of the plug to see if you get anything other than an open circuit?
 
The heatsink wasn't on when I took that picture
N7vbj.jpg



Nothing showing and the E-stop appears to be properly working.
 
I was using a 10a power cord to test it, but its not running anything so it should only be drawing minimal amperage, correct?
The breaker is 20amp with nothing else running on the circuit. I also tried a few different circuits, all the same result.
 
Please keep in mind that the E-Stop button switch is a lock-on switch and must be reset after use. If you do not reset it the GFCI circuit protection will instantily trip again as soon as power is applied to the power line.

(He said thinking out loud)

P-J
 
Please keep in mind that the E-Stop button switch is a lock-on switch and must be reset after use. If you do not reset it the GFCI circuit protection will instantily trip again as soon as power is applied to the power line.

(He said thinking out loud)

P-J

I have a momentary, non-locking e-stop, and according to the continuity test it is working fine.
I started working backwards and have pinpointed it to the contactor / SSR.

Here is a quick sketch on how it is wired.
TErm2.jpg
 
I see the problem. I had the contactor wired incorrectly. Now my question is how do I wire it correctly.

I have the contactor from ebrewsupply I guess I wasn't paying attention when I hooked it up and realized that those side tabs are connected. I had the pos & neutral connected to one tab.
 
Well, now that it is wired correctly everything works fine except one of the sensors is off by 10*F
EDIT: That problem is fixed.

New Problem: The e-stop is not tripping the 15a GFCI. When I test with the continuity tester reads nothing until I hit the button and it goes to 1997
 
UPDATE: e-stop started working for some reason. The transformers came in and the 12v pumps are wired and working well... More pics to come.
 
Back
Top