Why extract?

If I reword the question a bit to "why dont you all grain" (tho I did pick up a 50# bag of grain to start AG this year) by far I am most nervous about temp control. Is my thermometer accurate, etc.
More reasons are:
Hands on part takes longer, say twice as long to brew.
Correct sparge, flow and temp.
Need to mill grains, or have milled.
More time involved=more risk.
More equipment=more money at start, tho if you brew enough its paid for by AG.

Where does one draw the line on "homebrewing"? Do you plow your own field, plant the grain, irrigate, reap, and malt your own grains?
If you buy grains that have all these steps already done, extract is really only a few more steps done for you. However, like yoopers tomato sauce, each step already done is one less you control.

But why brew extract instead of all grain?

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Space and time. I don't have the space to brew in my appt. I brew with another guy at his place and he doesn't like to start before noon. I don't want to be still brewing through supper. I really don't want to deal with temp control during the mash either.

With extract and specialty grains there are few beers you can't make. Not being able to ferment in the lager range is much much more limiting than using extract with specialty grains.

With extract you can adjust fermentability by adding sugar. You can adjust your malt profile with grains.

helibrewer said:

It's no more like cheating than: hop pellets instead of cones, buying Belgian dark sugar instead of making it, buying prepared yeast strains instead of raising it from dregs, buying malted barley instead of malting or roasting it your self, etc.

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+1 Good answer.

helibrewer said:

It's no more like cheating than: hop pellets instead of cones, buying Belgian dark sugar instead of making it, buying prepared yeast strains instead of raising it from dregs, buying malted barley instead of malting or roasting it your self, etc.

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savannahvan said:

+1 Good answer.

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I disagree with you about buying yeast and malting your own barley. Malted barley was purchased from "the store" for hundreds if not thousands of years before today. Malt extract has been used for less than 50 years (I think, my number could be slightly off)

I do agree with the hop pellets, but have resigned myself to accept it.

Halbrust said:

I disagree with you about buying yeast and malting your own barley. Malted barley was purchased from "the store" for hundreds if not thousands of years before today. Malt extract has been used for less than 50 years (I think, my number could be slightly off)

I do agree with the hop pellets, but have resigned myself to accept it.

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But there are people on this forum who DO grow and malt their own barley. Some are even bringing back heirloom varieties!

To the OP, I kind of have to ask - why are you posing this question, when so far you've displayed a lack of interest in even considering approaching extract brewing?

I mean, it's an interesting conversation and all - but why ask the question if you're not particularly interested in the answer?

I do extract because it was a lot simpler than AG to start out. also I like the simplicity of not having to worry about PH, mash temps being wrong with a bad thermometer etc. I brew once or twice a month and I get lots of tasty tasty beer for me and the missus. I brew not to brew (although coming up with new recipes is AWESOME) but brew to drink for the most part (we go through a 6-12 pack a week on average)

stratslinger said:

To the OP, I kind of have to ask - why are you posing this question, when so far you've displayed a lack of interest in even considering approaching extract brewing?

I mean, it's an interesting conversation and all - but why ask the question if you're not particularly interested in the answer?

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I am interested in others opinions and reasons why.
I'm very interested in the answers. I am not interested in brewing extract, so if anyone was trying to have me "consider approaching extract brewing" I was dismissive of it (but don't think anyone tried to)

Why Brew to Brew? If you don't drink Beer? Enter what contest, how would you deliver an example of a Beer without any experience tasting Beer. You wouldn't know if yoYou had a worthy entrant. It's like Wine, a pallate must be developed. I love the people who have to have a $50.00 bottle at the restaurant, but could never distinguish it from a #20.00 bottle. There is no substitute for consumption. Brewing Beer without enjoying Beer is like learning to be a Chef but need a feeding tube.
Cheers!

I have every thing I need to do all-grain; Coolers, large pot, propane burner, even bulk grain.

But I choose to do partial mash. It suits me. And I think I make decent beers.

I think you do what suits you, and I do what suits me. I started with Mr. Beer a few years ago and moved to 5 gallon kits shortly after, I also did a few Coopers kits just to see how they were, and they are by far the fastest.

I moved to AG earlier this year using a bag and turkey fryer, for me it was cost. I can make the same extract beer in AG for 1/3 the price. I have read that for some people it's a time issue, on my stove it takes me 3 hours to do an extract batch and 3.5 to do an AG BIAB batch. The fryer heats the liquid up sooo much faster.

I now have a 3 tier set up and 3 keggles and can make 10 gallons in 4 hours. I realized after a few BIAB batches that the difference between 5 and 10 gallon batches is more grain and a little more time to heat up the extra liquid.

I slowly acquired my AG stuff over several months, first my Corona mill then my fryer then I got my keggles and finally built my rig. My rig was unexpected cause the steel I used I found in the scrap bin at work so it upped that to finish sooner since it was no cost to me.

Transamguy77 said:

I think you do what suits you, and I do what suits me. I started with Mr. Beer a few years ago and moved to 5 gallon kits shortly after, I also did a few Coopers kits just to see how they were, and they are by far the fastest.

I moved to AG earlier this year using a bag and turkey fryer, for me it was cost. I can make the same extract beer in AG for 1/3 the price. I have read that for some people it's a time issue, on my stove it takes me 3 hours to do an extract batch and 3.5 to do an AG BIAB batch. The fryer heats the liquid up sooo much faster.

I now have a 3 tier set up and 3 keggles and can make 10 gallons in 4 hours. I realized after a few BIAB batches that the difference between 5 and 10 gallon batches is more grain and a little more time to heat up the extra liquid.

I slowly acquired my AG stuff over several months, first my Corona mill then my fryer then I got my keggles and finally built my rig. My rig was unexpected cause the steel I used I found in the scrap bin at work so it upped that to finish sooner since it was no cost to me.

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I would like to point out that you can do full boil extract on a turkey fryer as well. The time issue for me is that I have to be away from my kids for the 3 hours with the fryer but can keep an easy eye on them from my kitchen area.

All this spaghetti tomato and all grain talk confused me... when do I add spaghetti to the kettle? do I have to mash the spaghetti? step it? boil it? also what´s the pitch rate of canned tomato? at what temp? do I have to make a starter if it´s canned tomato or should I only make it with fresh tomatoes?
Also it´s adding meatballs to your spaghetti wort a good practice?
Help I´m confused

my reason for switching from all grain to extract is that i'm a new brewer, and i wanted at least ONE thing to be constant in my brew day.


just like i didn't need to learn mechanical engineering and how to build an engine to learn to drive, i don't need to learn all the details of All Grain brewing to get my feet under me and learn the basics of brewing.


i have every intention of going back to All Grain brewing later, but not until i have learned a LOT more than I know today.


besides, if I make good beer with extract, and not so good beer All Grain, why would I choose the "not so good"?

dadshomebrewing said:

besides, if I make good beer with extract, and not so good beer All Grain, why would I choose the "not so good"?

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Because it´s challenging?
Anyway you shoul brew the way it makes you happy.

Obliviousbrew said:

Because it´s challenging?
Anyway you shoul brew the way it makes you happy.

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oh, i'm too much of a detail freak to stay away from All Grain, forever.

kinda goes back to the old adage "crawl, walk, run"

I admittedly did not read all 56 posts but either all grain or extract are still making beer. My group of friends and I are what I would classify as volume drinkers. Quality beer is important to us but so is quick turn around. Our brew days usually consist of brewing two batches and drinking at least half of one that was packaged earlier. We can accomplish this by brewing extract and completing both batches in under 4 hours from lighting the burner to mopping the floor. As for all grain being less expensive, aside from the equipment. Just out of curiosity I priced out the last Blonde that we made. The all grain version was only $4.00 less than the extract. I consider my time as part of the cost. This is why even though I am capable, I will pay $29.00 to have my oil changed. Oil and filter would cost about $20.00 but the time involved plus disposing of the used oil is worth the additional cost to me.

nasty_rabbit said:

I admittedly did not read all 56 posts but either all grain or extract are still making beer. My group of friends and I are what I would classify as volume drinkers. Quality beer is important to us but so is quick turn around. Our brew days usually consist of brewing two batches and drinking at least half of one that was packaged earlier. We can accomplish this by brewing extract and completing both batches in under 4 hours from lighting the burner to mopping the floor. As for all grain being less expensive, aside from the equipment. Just out of curiosity I priced out the last Blonde that we made. The all grain version was only $4.00 less than the extract. I consider my time as part of the cost. This is why even though I am capable, I will pay $29.00 to have my oil changed. Oil and filter would cost about $20.00 but the time involved plus disposing of the used oil is worth the additional cost to me.

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I agree a lot with what you said. I like to drink a lot of beer. This is why I started brewing. I brew extract 5 gallon batches about 3 times a month. I got more hobbies then I know what to do with up here in Alaska, brewing being one of those, but it's not my only area of focus. I like being able to crank out 5 gallons in 3 hrs, then throw my stuff in a couple boxes and put it back on the shelf. My garage isn't big enough with my truck, 3 snowmachines, dozens of fishing poles, gun safe, 20 cf keezer, and dirt bike to leave it up all the time. Plus, as said earlier, the beer I make with extract is very drinkable in my opinion and cheaper then I can buy decent beer at the store. For now, until I get old, pop out some kids, stay home more and have less fun outside, I brew extract.

Obliviousbrew said:

All this spaghetti tomato and all grain talk confused me... when do I add spaghetti to the kettle? do I have to mash the spaghetti? step it? boil it? also what´s the pitch rate of canned tomato? at what temp? do I have to make a starter if it´s canned tomato or should I only make it with fresh tomatoes?
Also it´s adding meatballs to your spaghetti wort a good practice?
Help I´m confused

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I'm still new, but I'll try to help based on my 4 brews that I've completed.

Spaghetti gets added to the pot at boil, and no other action is required. A pitch rate of the canned tomato depends on the size and the type of tomatoes used. As far as a starter, some say yes, other say no

Meatballs are usually best utilized in your secondary fermenter, but make sure they are cooked thoroughly to decrease a chance at infection.

hedbutter said:

I'm still new, but I'll try to help based on my 4 brews that I've completed.

Spaghetti gets added to the pot at boil, and no other action is required. A pitch rate of the canned tomato depends on the size and the type of tomatoes used. As far as a starter, some say yes, other say no

Meatballs are usually best utilized in your secondary fermenter, but make sure they are cooked thoroughly to decrease a chance at infection.

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The sad thing is, with people doing things like bacon beer, I wouldn't be all that shocked if someone's actually done something like this.:cross:

Qhrumphf said:

The sad thing is, with people doing things like bacon beer, I wouldn't be all that shocked if someone's actually done something like this.:cross:

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Nothing sad about it,

http://www.mammamiapizzabeer.com/main.php

nasty_rabbit said:

...As for all grain being less expensive, aside from the equipment. Just out of curiosity I priced out the last Blonde that we made. The all grain version was only $4.00 less than the extract...

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This is probably involving a little more that just the basics of the original question, but: you're absolutely right, that if you're brewing kit beers, the all grain ingredient savings are pretty unimpressive. However, if you're interested in working from recipes (or formulating your own) and buying grain and hops in bulk, the savings start to get far more significant. I just brewed up an Imperial Nut Brown Ale, with a 1.073 OG this weekend. I used washed yeast, so the yeast was paid for a few batches ago. My ingredient cost was about $12 - probably $13 once I count the DME I used for my starter. Had I needed to buy yeast, I would've been closer to $20. Not bad at all for a relatively big beer.

To be fair, you _can_ buy extract in bulk too, but I don't think it keeps as reliably as bulk grain and it's still a bit more expensive in comparison to grain.

I'm going to brew a DIPA coming up. 100% 2-row grain bill = extract all the way.

No part of me is embarassed to admit: 1) I'd like to have more free time 2) Briess malting probably can perform a better mash than I can.

Interesting question though, specific to that example: what extract is made up of only 2-row? Not being snarky or anything here, I honestly don't know - I thought most extracts were actually a blend of mostly base malt and one or two specialty malts in varying percentages.

Also, not that it would sway the extract or grain decision on that particular style at all, but it may be a useful tidbit: it's fairly common on DIPA's to use sugar as an adjunct to help dry out the beer a bit, since you're talking about a LOT of malt to get the gravity up that high. The sugar helps keep the beer from being too syrupy. So, maybe it's a 90% or 95% 2-row (or extra light DME?) grain bill, with the remainder in sugar...

I recently just brewed my first beer. I chose extract because I didnt know how it would be or even if I would enjoy it. I wanted to get my feet wet before I went all in. It was fun and exciting. One batch down (not even ready yet), and Im already thinking about doing more. Ive read some on AG but haven't familiarized myself with everything about it. Ill probably keep reading and ninja lurking these forums for awhile before I do an AG. But in the mean time, a few more extract brews wont hurt me.

I do all grain, but because my 5 gallon mash tun is limited to about 8.5# of grain, extract is a lifesaver when I want to do higher gravity beers. Like many have already said, extract is a wonderful tool of convenience: Instead of doing 2 or 3 batches I can mash my base and specialty grains then "spike" my gravity with a compatible extract. Otherwise brewing would become less a hobby and more "Marathon Man," with my refractometer asking, "Is it safe?" I love extract.

I do both. I've made excellent beers using both techniques and I've made a few duds using both. I have all the equipment necessary, plenty of space to store it, and I'm not overly concerned about the added cost of either.

I think you should just do what you enjoy. For me, my children take up a huge portion of my time. Extract helps me to be able to brew and not take time away from them. But, that is only a small part of it. Sometimes I just don't feel like taking up a large part of my day brewing. On the other hand, sometimes it is nice to slow down and really tweak a recipe (ag).

I've been brewing for almost 15 years. I really think that very few people could sit down and do a blind taste test and tell me which beers were ag vs extract. Doing both gives me a tremendous amount of flexibility. Oh, and I have accumulated all of my equipment over the years. Much better than shelling out a huge amount of $ for a hobby you may not stick with, if you don't drink much. Just my 2 cents.

I started my first brew as an all grain brew. I hadn't realised the amount of space I needed for this (e.g., I can't really fit both a 5 gallon mashing container and a 5-6 gallon pot for boiling). That said, I do live in a small Welsh terrace. So from now on I'll mash a small proportion of grains (e.g., some Munich) and fill the rest with extract.

Like most people who replied, I'm an extract brewer. I prefer it for the simplicity of brewing. I do plan on taking the steps into AG, but right now I'm not comfortable nor ready to buy the equipment. I do see how extract brewers can miss out on excellent brews, but I'm just happy to make my own vs. going to the store to buy beer all the time. It's still by far cheaper to make 5 gal of beer than buying it.