Bittering only for IPA

I'm considering an IPA with a 60 minute bittering addition only then dry hopping the **** out of it.

Anyone tried this?

My other consideration is the same but adding hop tea after fermentation is almost over.,,

Steve da sleeve

Have you read this? I think I'm going to try it for the next IPA.

http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php

Yeap hopbursting it´s a better option a little more expensive but I hop bursted pale ales and IPAs with great results, a lot of dryhopping will give your a somewhat harsher bitterness.
I hop burst my beer to contribute to the hop shortage.

If you do something like this, I would highly recommend using a low cohumulone, high alpha American pellet hop like Horizon, Magnum, or better yet, Warrior for bittering. This way, you'll have smoother bitterness, you won't have to use a ton of it, or lose a lot of your wort via drenching the leaf hops.

I would recommend adding a warm whirlpool steep addition. So 60/0/DH - The warm aroma steep really provides added hop complexity since you're, 1) boiling the first installment for bitterness only 2) steeping the second installment in your warm 100-160 F wort during the chilling process for flavor/aroma 3) and then dryhopping the last installment in your 65 F wort for a week for added flavor/aroma.

What hops were you considering for the dryhop? And what is your goal, flavor/aroma wise?

I Hopburst as a matter of course these days. I'm just interested in a big aroma aspect and minimizing my hop use in the boil - just to see what happens! Has anyone tried this? I usually have 30, 15, 5, and flame out additions using high alpha US or NZ hops + dry hops. I also put whole hops in the keg. Last IPA - which I admit was great - I used around 12 oz total. I'm thinking it might be cool to try multiple dry hop additions, say 2 for 14 days, 2 for 5 days and 2 for 2 days cool and just bittering in the boil.

Short Answer:

Less is never more when it comes to hopping an American IPA.

Shifting the location of your typical hop additions is doable. But you can't expect a better IPA than the previous one by using less hops this time around.

What would you guys say about malt-forward styles of beers such as Scottish beers or Bock or something like that? Mostly just your averate single addition hop style beers.. would it benefit just adding the hops in the last 20 minutes of the boil or would the maltiness that is supposed to be forward get muted by hop aroma/flavor that really shouldnt be there?

Yes but has anyone *tried* it?

Steve da sleeve

"Yes but has anyone *tried* it?"

Sure. Millions of Brits in 1880 drank tons of this. High alcohol. High bitterness. Little to no finishing hops. Big dry hop. Age to let the alcohol and bitterness mellow.

Old thread reboot...

I think I'm going to do an all-bittering IPA. I know this might get me tarred and feathered, but I think finishing hops get in the way, especially on some of the newer style IPA's that drink more like hop juice. Call me crazy, but I think it'd be great to have a 6% IPA, super clean, with an ounce or two (max) dry hop for subtle aroma.

If anyone's following this thread, I appreciate your thoughts on the following recipe idea. I want to brew an IPA that focuses on clean malt, balanced bittering, low hop character and perhaps yeast as well. It's a mash-up of US and UK styles, so basically it's own thing.

IPA 6.5% abv @ 55 IBU
73% 2 Row
9% Vienna
4% Flaked Barley
14% Invert #2 (in primary post-krausen)
Bittering @ 60 (50 IBU)
1 oz Crystal @ 10 (5 IBU)
WY West Yorkshire

I would shoot for 72% attenuation on the malt sugars, mashing at 153F. Then add homemade invert made from Turbinado sugar to boost the gravity. The idea being that I'll get some upfront body and complexity, with a drying finish. I may add 1/3 oz crystal dry-hop for subtle hop aroma.

Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated!

I would drop the Crystal and go full bittering if you want to make this an expirement.