Whats wrong with my flame

Got my Jet burners in, and wanted to test fire them. I bought these burners, and this regulator. I'm not using any valves at this point. I go straight from the Green Acme connector to the regulator, then a 22" flexible hose right into the burner. I even bought this 2-stage regulator and getting the same results.



This is a picture looking into a Jet. Can anyone tell me if this is a low pressure jet or a high pressure jet.



Thanks

That's a high pressure orifice. Time to get the drill out.

Just a guess but I know the new propane tanks will shut almost off if you use to much fuel to fast. It was either the tanks or the regulators I do not remember now which one governed the flow now.

Simple: you're running a high pressure burner on an 11" WC regulator (which is around .4psi, or the equivalent of household natural gas pressure).

Either all those jets have to be replaced with their low pressure equivalent, or you need to buy a high pressure propane regulator...

Cheers!

Well damn, no matter how much research and due diligence I do, I guess it's inevitable I'd screw something up . I thought I doing so well too . OK so I have to drill them out, or get new burners. If I drill them out myself, what size drill bit would you recommend? Would I drill the to the same size as a BG14 orifice?

Here's what you need... http://www.homebrewing.org/10-PSI-Regulator-For-Propane-_p_1725.html

Toymaker said:

Here's what you need... http://www.homebrewing.org/10-PSI-Regulator-For-Propane-_p_1725.html

Click to expand...

Thanks Toymaker, I should have mentioned it in my initial post, but I will be using Honeywell gas valves, and already know I need to run and .5 psi or 11" wc. I would prefer not to use an adjustable regulator for this.

khomburg said:

Well damn, no matter how much research and due diligence I do, I guess it's inevitable I'd screw something up . I thought I doing so well too . OK so I have to drill them out, or get new burners. If I drill them out myself, what size drill bit would you recommend? Would I drill the to the same size as a BG14 orifice?

Click to expand...

Whoa, Nellie! You definitely do not want to blow a huge hole in ten jets the size of the low pressure orifice on a banjo burner!

Looking around the forums via Google search, I found this thread which suggests using a #75 drill bit on the jets would do the trick.

Cheers!

[edit] If you want to roll your own solution, check out the table on this page, which provides per-element BTUs based on a few low pressure scenarios. Looking at the 11" WC column, you could dial up your desired BTUs for your ten tip burners based on the selected drill size.

Thanks daytrippr, I'll definitely start with the smallest bit sizes

I had found that low pressure chart but also found a high pressure chart at the same site. Both charts use some of the same drill size at the smaller orifice sizes. All this high pressure, low pressure and low pressure that's not really low pressure confuses me

fwiw, the tables start with what's likely the smallest practical bit size that will survive the drilling, and from there they just use standard sizes in an incremental fashion on both tables...

Cheers!

Ding Ding Ding... and the winner is

Varmintman said:

Just a guess but I know the new propane tanks will shut almost off if you use to much fuel to fast. It was either the tanks or the regulators I do not remember now which one governed the flow now.

Click to expand...

I was all set to drill out 30 impinged jet orifices. Got the dremell out and the micro drill bits. Pulled out the #75 drill bit and low and behold it was to small. As it turned out the orifices are already at about a #70 drill bit.

So, now I have to do more research. Basically what I have found is all of the impinged jet burners are 'ONLY' low pressure, there is no such thing as a high pressure impinged jet burner. The only real difference between jet burners is orifices are drilled out to different size for low pressure natural gas or low pressure propane.

What I also found out was that regulators nowadays have a safety shutoff. In my case, since I had no valve after the regulator, what happens is that once I open the tank valve since there is no valve afterwards the regulator thinks there is a leak and shuts off.

http://www.gashosesandregulators.com/propaneregulatorfacts.html

So, once I put a valve after the regulator I was able to light up the burner and got a much better test result. There's still some yellow flame, but those are leaks were things screw into each other.

This is why those 0-10 and 0-30 adjustable regulators may seem to work. If you use it as a valve, you have a valve after the regulator. So when you turn the tank on, the regulator works properly because it doesn't sense a leak and shut down.

Thanks for all the help.