Willhi wiring

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callback79

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Hi,

I'm looking for a very simple way to wire the Willhi temp controller (looks like the STC-1000, but single-stage).

I would like to use a extension cord and cut it down the middle. I've found a diagram on Willhi's website but I can't understand which wire is the hot one and which one is the white one.

I have the 110v version, hope it's the same wiring pattern as the 12v.

Next question, should I just use marettes to split the hot and white wires from the power source ?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

willhi.JPG
 
i found the 220v version, and the wiring is different.

also with you saying "i hope its the same as the 12v" i would search for the 110v version before you try to make any sort of plans. i'll see if i can track anything down
 
also with you saying "i hope its the same as the 12v" i would search for the 110v version before you try to make any sort of plans. i'll see if i can track anything down

On Willhi's website, the owner manual is the same for every WH7016C model (220, 110, 12v and 24v, using the 12v as exemple) but I just found the diagram from another seller and it's the same diagram, 12v replaced by 110v.

I still don't know which wire is the hot one and which is the white one.

Thanks.
 
Hi

The wire in your diagram labeled "12V" is the hot (black) wire. The unlabeled wire is the neutral (white) wire. Of course that's not much help, since the diagram is wrong.

Power (black and white) go to the power input slots on the controller. The relay contacts get the hot (black) on one side and the hot going to the load on the other side of the contacts. The load also gets a white (neutral) wire.

Bob
 
Hi

The wire in your diagram labeled "12V" is the hot (black) wire. The unlabeled wire is the neutral (white) wire. Of course that's not much help, since the diagram is wrong.

Power (black and white) go to the power input slots on the controller. The relay contacts get the hot (black) on one side and the hot going to the load on the other side of the contacts. The load also gets a white (neutral) wire.

Bob

The diagram is not wrong. You are reading it wrong. I admit, the diagram is poorly made, but it is not inaccurate.

Treat the words on the left as "to 12 volt load" not as labeling 1 wire as 12V and 1 as Load.
 
Am I correct if i'm interpretting the diagram this way ?

Or should I inverse the black and red (white) wires to set it correctly ?

willhi-guess.JPG
 
The diagram is not wrong. You are reading it wrong. I admit, the diagram is poorly made, but it is not inaccurate.

Treat the words on the left as "to 12 volt load" not as labeling 1 wire as 12V and 1 as Load.

Hi

Pardon me for not reading the words that were not there...

Bob
 
Thanks to all, I wired the controller like the on the diagram (Red and black wires) and it works perfectly.

Just want to share, in case it can help someone in the future.
 
Could any of you awesome electrically knowledgeable types help me out with my Willhi controller?
I would like to just use the wires in the original thermostat to wire up the new controller. Is this possible?

Here is the controller:

IMG-1.jpg
 
I would like to just use the wires in the original thermostat to wire up the new controller. Is this possible?


Is it possible using only the wires in the original thermostat? Maybe yes, maybe no.

You will need to figure out what wires you have available at the thermostat. The controller needs both sides of the 220V to power the controller. If only one side comes to the original thermostat, you may still be able to find the other side nearby at a light or fan.

Is there a wiring diagram on the refrigerator anywhere?
 
Unfortunately, no wiring diagram. the light is part of the thermostat housing (towards the bottom of the pic. That probably doesn't help much though.
 
Having the light right there should mean that everything you need is there. You will just have to figure out which wires to use.

Do you have a volt/ohm meter?

Can you identify where the other end of those wires are to help determine what they do?


It looks like the picture shows some labeling printed on the thermostat. Can you get a better picture?
 
I don't have a meter here but could get one tomorrow.
The thermostat has numbers written where the wires go in.
4 - Black (left)
6 - Brown (middle, with green sticker)
3 - Purple(right)

I don't think I could even use a meter though as to get power to the unit I would have to plug it back in to the bracket and then the housing is closed to access.

*edit - It's a Ranco brand thermostat
 
I see now in the picture that the thermostat and light are in a module that plugs in to the bracket. There is one female terminal and three male terminals. I expect that female terminal is probably the other side of the 220V to the light.

Any part number on the Ranco?

Model number for the refrigerator?
 
No part number on the thermo but the fridge is a Bosch FD7608. It's a european model and the info I could find on the net was spotty.

I can tell you that the purple wire powers the light.
 
You're right, I couldn't find anything on that model either.


This will have to be done the hard way. You will need to use the meter to identify the wires to and from that thermostat box.


Can you get at the compressor?

Pictures of the compressor connections and any junctions may help identify where to do tests.
 
I'll have to try to tackle this after work today. I can get to the compressor and the junction box so I'll get it opened up and take some pics later today.


Thanks for all the help Reynolds!
 
Had to take yesterday off to attend to some customers.
Here is a pic of the connection box near the compressor. I'll try to draw up a quick schematic shortly.

IMG-6.jpg
 
I'll try to explain in case that pic doesn't help.
The right is from the outlet (supply) and contains:
1 - Yellow/Green which goes to the ground terminal.
1 - Brown which goes to the terminal marked "L"
1 - Blue which goes to the terminal marked "N"

On the left, that wire goes up to the cabinet and contains:
1 - Blue which goes to "N"
1 - Brown which goes to "L"
1 - Black which goes to "C"

I show voltage between:
Grnd and "L"
"N" and "C"
and also between:
"C" and "L"

I hope that helps!
 
OK, you should use the meter to verify this by disconnecting Black from "C" and cycling the thermostat:
It looks like the thermostat is switching between Blue and Black to power the compressor on terminal "C".

If you are unsure how to test it, let me know.


If that is correct, you will disconnect Black from the thermostat and connect it to #2 on the controller.

Brown connects to #4 on the controller

Blue connects to #1 and #3 on the controller


Blue and Brown will also be used for the light, depending on where the light connections are in that housing, you will have to make sure they still get there.


All of that is assuming you still want to make your connections at the thermostat housing. You can also make the same connections down at the compressor. Don't forget that the controller may not like the condensation that may form on it when mounted inside the refrigerator.
 
Yeah, on second thought I like the idea of just hooking it up directly at the comp.
I don't even care about the light either. Would that make it easier?
I think that the original thermostat is not working as I can't even get the compressor to run. Is there a way I can check that?
It ran fine before I took apart the thermostat it just wouldn't hold a steady temp.
 
I think that the original thermostat is not working as I can't even get the compressor to run. Is there a way I can check that?
It ran fine before I took apart the thermostat it just wouldn't hold a steady temp.

Is the thermostat assembly plugged back into the mounting bracket? All the wires connect through the bracket



Yeah, on second thought I like the idea of just hooking it up directly at the comp.
I don't even care about the light either. Would that make it easier?


Light or no light shouldn't make much difference. Same as what I said before for connections, just disconnect the Black at the compressor instead of at the thermostat. I would still recommend testing with the meter to verify that the original thermostat is switching the Blue to the Black.
 
Yes, the original thermostat assembly is back in place.

So, yeah, you better walk me through testing that it is switching like you think.
 
Hmmm, if the thermostat is suspected of not working correctly, that changes the testing a bit.

I found specs for that starter relay on the compressor, it is a Danfoss 103N0021 starter relay. Typical use is with the thermostat switching from "L" to "C".


So, here is what you need:

Disconnect Black from "C" and insulate the end.

Connect #2 on the controller to "C".

Connect #1 and #3 on the controller to "L"

Connect #4 on the controller to "N"

There appears to be spade terminals available for all of the connections you need to make at the compressor relay, so you won't have to modify the original wiring other than unplugging the black.
 
Viola!
Yer the friggin' man Reynolds!!!

One small thing though is that the compressor kicks on when the temp goes over the set temp and kicks off when the temp goes below.
I assume this is a simple reversing of two wires but I better let you tell me so I don't eff up at this point.

I'll take a stab of a guess but will wait for your reply to actually do it:
connect #1 to "C" and #2 to "L"
Do I get an "A"?!
 
That is a programming issue, the control is in heat mode rather than cool. The compressor is cycling on and off as the control tells it to.


From the manual I found online:

Press "SET" key and hold more than 3 seconds to enter the menu display, the
screen appears "HC" code, press the "SET" key to display the working mode,
press the "▲" or "▼" to adjust the display, C means cooling mode; H means
heating mode.


I think what that is trying to say is:

1. Press and hold the "Set" key for at least 3 seconds until the display changes to the programming mode.

2. Press the "Set" key until the display shows "H" or "C" (expect it to say "H".)

3. Use the arrow key to change it to "C" for cooling.

4. Press the "Set" key again to exit setting
mode.


I think that is how it is supposed to work. If not, you might have to poke buttons a bit to figure it out.
 
Good thing I didn't go fiddling with wires!
Sorry to question your skills.


Everything works perfectly now!

All joking aside, thanks a million for the help!
If you ever come to Munich, the Helles is on me!!!
 
Can I use one on these inside a mini fridge to replace the thermostat dial? I have one fridge that I was able to adjust the temperature on, however the other one i have does not have a screw that is adjustable. I live in Florida and in the middle of summer right now I need to be able to keep my fermentor in an area that stays cool in this awful heat. So far this has worked great for me. Now I would like to be able to get 2 batches going at a time! please help
 
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