Speidel Braumeister Modifications

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FiveKaiBrewing

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Hey guys,

Lets use this thread to list modifications you have done to the Braumeister.

start listing them!
 
this one was posted by bach.
valve

Yes it is SS9007 12-8

The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT

My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.

It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor

http://www.adaptall.com/products/stainless/ss9007.html
 
this one was posted by bach.
valve

Yes it is SS9007 12-8

The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT

My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.

It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor

http://www.adaptall.com/products/stainless/ss9007.html

Strange. I don't see "SS9007 12-8" on that page.
 
For those of you wanting to order this from this company. They do not sell to the general public but only to companies. If you want to purchase, you need to got thru a dealer.
 
None to list - 20L BM doesn't need any modifications.

No dip tube: unit is light enough to tilt forward to get the goodness out.
No special spigot: outflow is fast enough.

Only extra thing I do that comes into mind is that I tie the top mesh filter to the metal grill with 6 pieces of short metal wire.

Only thing I'd change at the factory would be to round the edges of the legs as they are quite sharp and I've cut myself a few times.

Okey, the handle on the lid could be easier to grab but that's it.

I just wanted to say this in case someone who is thinking about buying the 20L system gets the idea mods and customisation is needed for BM to work properly.
 
a good mod would be to use plasti dip on the legs.

http://www.plastidip.com/

you would have to suspend the braumeister in the air pust the platidip in a container (tupperware for example) and dip the legs in it and let dry.

this should give you a nice rubber coating on the legs that wont cut you or sctch any surface you put it on. ive done this to a couple of things in the garage never thought about the braumeister. but it does need it those legs come to sharp and scratch my countertop if i tilt or mobe it a bit while brewinbg
 
I really dont think it needs anything but people are always trying to make things better and if it works then ill apply it to mine.

any one havethe insulating jacket? does it work? i like the look of the copper top also but man 300 bucks thats steep...

None to list - 20L BM doesn't need any modifications.

No dip tube: unit is light enough to tilt forward to get the goodness out.
No special spigot: outflow is fast enough.

Only extra thing I do that comes into mind is that I tie the top mesh filter to the metal grill with 6 pieces of short metal wire.

Only thing I'd change at the factory would be to round the edges of the legs as they are quite sharp and I've cut myself a few times.

Okey, the handle on the lid could be easier to grab but that's it.

I just wanted to say this in case someone who is thinking about buying the 20L system gets the idea mods and customisation is needed for BM to work properly.
 
I really don't think it needs anything but people are always trying to make things better and if it works then ill apply it to mine.

any one have the insulating jacket? does it work? i like the look of the copper top also but man 300 bucks thats steep...

I have the insulating jacket and the copper top. The jacket works fine as far as I can tell. I've never used it without the jacket and the boil is fine.

The copper top is a bit disappointing. It looks nice, it makes a great funnel for grain if you invert it, but when used as intended mine drips condensation around the sides. It also seems to make a boil over more likely and of course you can't really see it building inside the dome. I've come close to boil over a few times and you wind up with your hops all over the sides of the BM rather than in the wort. I use the top sparingly.

If I had to do it again I'd get the jacket and forget the the copper top.

Other than that I can't really say that I see the need for any modifications (plug aside!). It works as advertised. I've never had funneling or other issues, I just tilt the unit forward rather than using a dip tube, etc...
 
For those of you wanting to order this from this company. They do not sell to the general public but only to companies. If you want to purchase, you need to got thru a dealer.

Correct - call ADAPT ALL and ask who is the local dealer in your area.
In Twin Cities it is Quest engineering.
 
voltage converter, I like that i can plug this thing in anywhere instead of having to hook up to 220 power

i bought mine here the 5000 model. no issues yet. I tried looking for a higher quality unit but this seems to work fine. it seems all the voltage converters out there come from companies with cheesy websites and look low quality. if any one finds a better quality unit please let me know.

http://www.220-electronics.com/Transformers/trans/diamond-voltage-converter.htm
 
Lovin the braumeister so far. 3 brews down to date. The only thing i am thinking of doing is to make some sort of braumeister hop-sock to make the cleanup faster and also prevent the tap from blocking when i tip the unit over to get the last of the wort out.

Anyone got any novel ideas for a braumeister hopsock? Show us some pictures if you have!

As i have not used a hop-sock before i am slightly concerned about the hop utilisation. I guess the only way to know is to give it a go.

The only part of my brewday which involves any work is the cleanup of the unit. I make sure to give it a good cleaning every time. Also I heat some water in the unit and run the pumps before i put in the actual water for the boil. I empty this water out again. Probably overkill - but just want to make sure.
 
1.) I want to do the dip-tube mod that is mentioned here and the in the main braumeister thread, but I don't know how to solder/weld. Can I still put those pieces together somethow?

2.) Is it possible to get a quality whirlpool going using the braumeister's internal pump? Does anybody use an external pump to whirlpool, and does having an immersion chiller get in the way of whirlpooling in that case?
 
What do you guys use to clean the elements, i have been using an abrasive sponge but it is tough to get in all the books and crannies.

Also thinking of trying no chill brewing and need to buy a different tube for the outpout as the temps would melt what i have now. Any suggestions on diameter and material that i could clamp on the output on my 20l bm?
 
Hi, I am also looking to replace the tap with a ball valve.

I bought a 1/2" ball valve http://bryggeland.no/kuleventil-3-deler-1-2-tom.html

I have measured the female thread on the Braumeister at 1" (25mm) so I am going to need a stainless 1" male to 1/2" male reducing nipple and some PTFE tape and then a 1/2" nipple from the other side of the ball valve.

Does anyone know the specifics of the 1" thread on the Braumeister???

Also anyone got the dimensions of the black rubber U seal people use on the two top filters? I bought some of ebay but it was too thick and the plates wouldn't go back in the Malt Pipe!!!

However I used it around both the handles to make it easier on the hands
 
a good mod would be to use plasti dip on the legs.

http://www.plastidip.com/

you would have to suspend the braumeister in the air pust the platidip in a container (tupperware for example) and dip the legs in it and let dry.

this should give you a nice rubber coating on the legs that wont cut you or sctch any surface you put it on. ive done this to a couple of things in the garage never thought about the braumeister. but it does need it those legs come to sharp and scratch my countertop if i tilt or mobe it a bit while brewinbg

So I'm about to try this, and I'm too lazy to keep searching. How did you get the bottom of the legs level and smooth?
 
Just did a malt pipe mod for my 20l. I brew 3 gal batches so I found that I either had to extend the boil to 2+ hours, purchase a short malt pipe or mod the one I have. I opted for the later.

I drilled 8 ea 1/2" holes 3 1/2" down from the top of the malt pipe. This mod lets me mash with less water, 5 gal verses 6 1/2 gal I previously needed to keep the heating elements from being exposed. I haven't brewed with it yet but testing it with 5 gal of water looks promising.
 
Drilled 8 more holes for a little better flow. Also thinking of replacing the fine s/s mesh strainers with a 5 gal paint strainer bag. I put a small slit in the bottom of the bag, slide it over the rod, slide the bottom plate in, fill the malt pipe, place the top plate and start mashing. The bag should keep all the grains inside.

View attachment 1451240358844.jpg

View attachment 1451240393744.jpg
 
Did a little test today and found out the bag doesn't work. It gets clogged pretty fast and the wort raised up over the malt pipe. I took the bag out and inserted the fine mesh screens and it works perfectly. Glad I tested it with some old unknown malt.

View attachment 1451333151037.jpg
 
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