S04 stops in the 1020's

I did an IPA awhile back and used a washed s04 starter. It only fermented down to 1020 and is way too sweet. I usually use us05 but was out so I tried the washed s04 I had.

I just made an ESB that called for s04 so I used another washed starter. This beer is stuck at 1022 after 17 days. It's supposed to hit 1014. I tried stirring up the yeast and nothing happened, after 3 days its still at 1022. Should I try adding a little us05 to try to get it to ferment a little lower? Whats the deal with s04, I'm thinking that I won't ever use it again.

That's odd. Normally when I use S-04 it rocks hardcore.

Extract or all-grain? If the latter, what's the grain bill, mash temp and OG?

Sounds more like a wort fermentability issue than a yeast issue. How much slurry did you pitch, and how old was it? Viability in the slurry could be an issue as well.

There are a ton of threads helping folks out with unexpectedly high FG readings. A quick search will provide hours of reading material on this very topic...probably with this very yeast, although I've not seen any attenuation issues personally with S-04.

Generally, the big hitters in my experience have been (in no particular order):
- aeration (did you provide enough?)
- yeast (did you pitch enough?)
- mash temp (is your mash temp commensurate with yeast type and beer style?)
- thermometer (is it accurate?)
- hydrometer (is it accurate?)

nyer said:

I did an IPA awhile back and used a washed s04 starter. It only fermented down to 1020 and is way too sweet. I usually use us05 but was out so I tried the washed s04 I had.

I just made an ESB that called for s04 so I used another washed starter. This beer is stuck at 1022 after 17 days. It's supposed to hit 1014. I tried stirring up the yeast and nothing happened, after 3 days its still at 1022. Should I try adding a little us05 to try to get it to ferment a little lower? Whats the deal with s04, I'm thinking that I won't ever use it again.

Click to expand...

These wouldn't happen to be extract batches we're talking about here, would they. I wouldn't say 04 is a great attenuator, but it's doubtfully the cause of these high FGs.

All-Grain - Common Room ESB
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Safale S-04
Yeast Starter: no
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.054
Final Gravity: 1.014
IBU: 35.3
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 10.4
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21
Tasting Notes: Complex and malty with distinct hop flavor. A deep copper well-balanced quaffer.

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
10.00 lb UK Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (1.4 SRM) Grain 90.91 %
0.75 lb UK Medium Crystal 50-65L (56.5 SRM) Grain 6.82 %
0.25 lb UK Dark Crystal 135-165L (150.0 SRM) Grain 2.27 %
1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 30.4 IBU
0.25 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (20 min) Hops 2.0 IBU
0.25 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 2.8 IBU
0.25 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
0.25 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.50 %] (0 min) Hops -
1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.054 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.054 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.014 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.17 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 5.21 %
Bitterness: 35.3 IBU Calories: 241 cal/pint
Est Color: 10.4 SRM Color: Color


Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 13.75 qt of water at 173.3 F 154.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 8.00 qt of water at 198.3 F 168.0 F
Sparge with enough water to achieve desired boil volume.


This is the recipe for the ESB. I aerate well and use a growler about half full for my starter. I had a very active fermentation by day 2 and almost had to add a blowoff tube, then it slowed significantly. The temp range has always been between 65-68. Will adding a little more dry yeast do anything? I don't want to leave it at 1022, I'm afraid it will be sweet like the IPA was.

Have you calibrated your mash thermometer recently? How do you aerate?

154 is a pretty warm mash. If your thermometer is off, you could easily be mashing in the high 150's, low 160's giving you a pretty poor fermentability. I'd also calibrate your hydrometer.

wonderbread23 said:

154 is a pretty warm mash. If your thermometer is off, you could easily be mashing in the high 150's, low 160's giving you a pretty poor fermentability.

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That's kinda what I was thinking. I had a similar issue but it was reading +3 degrees. Thought I was mashing @ 152, and was wondering why my beers were a bit thin. Turns out it was because I was mashing @ 149.

And yeah, check your hydro too.... that paper inside is famous for slipping. See what it reads in 60 degree water, it should be @ 1.000

wonderbread23 said:

154 is a pretty warm mash. If your thermometer is off, you could easily be mashing in the high 150's, low 160's giving you a pretty poor fermentability. I'd also calibrate your hydrometer.

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This.

154 is actually perfect for an ESB (IMMHO) but you're right in that it makes for a smaller margin of error.

Reno_eNVy said:

This.

154 is actually perfect for an ESB (IMMHO) but you're right in that it makes for a smaller margin of error.

Click to expand...

This could be the problem. I have a direct fired converted keg and I recirculate. I have been struggling trying to get an accurate mash temp. It varies depending where I put the temp. probe. I guess I should keep it as close to the return hose as possible and see how that works.

nyer said:

This could be the problem. I have a direct fired converted keg and I recirculate. I have been struggling trying to get an accurate mash temp. It varies depending where I put the temp. probe. I guess I should keep it as close to the return hose as possible and see how that works.

Click to expand...

Hmm... alright, there are some possible solutions.

1) Calibrate your thermometer. Do this by first crushing a bunch of ice, putting it in a small glass and adding just enough water to cover the crushed ice and there is ice throughout the column. This should read 32*F. Then boil some water and take a measurement of that. It should be 212*F unless you live at a higher elevation. Subtract 1*F from 212 for each 500 feet you are above sea-level. Boom... calibrated.

2) Put your probe in-line with the recirculation hose.