OP
OP
They are called "Expo Neon" markers. My kids picked them up for me. Probably either at Michael's, Staples or Office Depot.
Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs
- Thread starter JonW
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
HungusBrews
Well-Known Member
Hey Jon, Really inspired by this upright keezer build. A couple of questions if you don't mind:
-Why do you have two CO2 lines and one mix coming into the keezer? You have an 8-way manifold for CO2 and and a 2-way for Mix but what is the extra line for? Beer Gun? Soda? Just curious.
-In my chest keezer I have three secondary gauges for providing different Vols of CO2. Would you have any recommendations on how to work those gauges into this design? I would think if you only put 4 kegs in the bottom row you could fit a bank of regulators on the lower left wall.
-Seems you could have 10 taps pouring out of this thing. Would you think two rows of 5 taps would work?
P.S. Been using the 462 for over a year now to control ferm temps. Just wired up my HLT burner with a solenoid and HSI. Using a HERMS coil in there and it works perfectly Loving the built in ignition control. Working on a stand build similar to yours too. =)
Thanks!!
-Why do you have two CO2 lines and one mix coming into the keezer? You have an 8-way manifold for CO2 and and a 2-way for Mix but what is the extra line for? Beer Gun? Soda? Just curious.
-In my chest keezer I have three secondary gauges for providing different Vols of CO2. Would you have any recommendations on how to work those gauges into this design? I would think if you only put 4 kegs in the bottom row you could fit a bank of regulators on the lower left wall.
-Seems you could have 10 taps pouring out of this thing. Would you think two rows of 5 taps would work?
P.S. Been using the 462 for over a year now to control ferm temps. Just wired up my HLT burner with a solenoid and HSI. Using a HERMS coil in there and it works perfectly Loving the built in ignition control. Working on a stand build similar to yours too. =)
Thanks!!
OP
OP
I use the extra line for several things. Mostly to force carb at a different pressure, or if I needed to serve at a different pressure. Just added flexibility...
If you do a wood frame shelf support, you could probaby mount the regulators vertically to one of the front legs. I personally like them outside of the fridge.
Sure, 5 per row would work. You need to put them through the wall where the inside shelf has a flat spot for mounting though. If you use the position I used for one row, that will put your second row about 12" above the first (or below if you wanted to go that direction). I've now found that going to 8 taps that I'm keeping some beers on longer than I would like. Just not going through enough beer consistently.
HungusBrews
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jon! I guess more taps isn't always better.
OP
OP
This message was received via PM, but I'm posting the response here for others.
Post pics when you're done. I'd love to see it.
I would think you could drill there, but not having seen your freezer, I really can't say.jeffcosgrove said:
The use of the SS tubing was two-fold. First was to have a hard-line through the freezer wall so that there wouldn't be any problems with the line getting cut, kinked, etc. The second goal was to have the 90 degree bend which significantly minimizes the required space between the freezer and the wall.jeffcosgrove said:
Holes were drilled from both the inside and the outside. I first drilled a pilot hole all the way through, then I drilled the larger holes from both sides. I used a drill guide to make sure I was drilling perpendicular to the surface.jeffcosgrove said:
I bought the balls pre-drilled off of ebay.jeffcosgrove said:
Post pics when you're done. I'd love to see it.
jeffcosgrove
Well-Known Member
I removed the shroud at the bottom and took a picture. Am I right in assuming all of the coils are contained right here and I can drill anywhere above the shroud?
http://s526.beta.photobucket.com/user/jeffcosgrove1/media/WP_000295.jpg.html
<a href="http://s526.beta.photobucket.com/user/jeffcosgrove1/media/WP_000295.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc342/jeffcosgrove1/WP_000295.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_000295.jpg"/></a>
http://s526.beta.photobucket.com/user/jeffcosgrove1/media/WP_000295.jpg.html
<a href="http://s526.beta.photobucket.com/user/jeffcosgrove1/media/WP_000295.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i526.photobucket.com/albums/cc342/jeffcosgrove1/WP_000295.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo WP_000295.jpg"/></a>
OP
OP
Maybe... possibly. Without inspecting the unit, I can't tell you for sure where you can drill. You'll need to figure that out. Usually though, the back wall above the coils is pretty safe.
jeffcosgrove
Well-Known Member
After I removed the shroud and checked where all the lines are going I turned on the freezer and am fairly confident that the hot side coils are only in the sides of the freezer so drilling through the back on this model should be fine. I'll post how it turns out. I used this one:
http://www.sears.com/kenmore-elite-...p-04628099000P?prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=G9
One more question Jon. Where did you find the 90 deg tail pieces in stainless?
Thanks.
http://www.sears.com/kenmore-elite-...p-04628099000P?prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=G9
One more question Jon. Where did you find the 90 deg tail pieces in stainless?
Thanks.
OP
OP
The 90 degree SS tail pieces were from kegworks and the 90 degree SS tubing going thru the back wall was from Brewers Hardware.
mjohnson
Well-Known Member
What did you use for the shelf supports?
Lovey build.
Lovey build.
OP
OP
From post #1....."I also added a 2x2 wood frame to support the freezer shelf."
slarkin712
Well-Known Member
Jon, did you use the existing thermostat or override it with a temperature controller? I didn't see anything in your pics.
OP
OP
I placed a jumper on the built-in thermostat to make it run continuously and then have it plugged into an outlet controlled by my BCS. There are obvious benefits to an external temp controller, but the one downside is that the inside light only works if the external controller is currently chilling. Not a biggie, but I've thought about wiring the light on it's own circuit.
OP
OP
When I do brew days, it's usually an open invite for others to attend. You might want to check out Brewcommune.com - the club I'm in. What end of town you at?
I periodically mix up BLC and put it in a keg to run through the lines for cleaning.
OP
OP
You're very close. I'm just off Bolsa Chica. Brewing this Sunday from 9:00 AM until ???? (doing two 10g batches). PM me if you're interested in coming by. Yeah, I know it's Easter, but I didn't know that when I scheduled the brew day.
Awesome work here! I just picked up a Kenmore freezer on CL for $100 and am going to build a new keezer inspired by yours. I have a few questions if you dont mind:
I can't see the back of this shelf so I am assuming that this shelf is essentially a 2 legged table where the two legs are what is visible in the front and the back it supported by the hump in the back?
What kind of beverage line did you use. I currently have accuflex barrier line in my existing keezer and I think it would be too stiff for a project like this.
Did you ever modify your wiring to solve the light issue? Did you bypass the defrost heater? I take it the recirculation fan still works?
I can't see the back of this shelf so I am assuming that this shelf is essentially a 2 legged table where the two legs are what is visible in the front and the back it supported by the hump in the back?
What kind of beverage line did you use. I currently have accuflex barrier line in my existing keezer and I think it would be too stiff for a project like this.
Did you ever modify your wiring to solve the light issue? Did you bypass the defrost heater? I take it the recirculation fan still works?
OP
OP
There are 4 legs supporting the shelf. All 4 legs are beveled on the inside edge so that the kegs can push into the corners better.
I used 3/16" vinyl bev line for both the bev and gas. You need some flexibility with it.
I never did hook up the light. I did bypass the defrost heater - that is required. The fan recirculates any time the compressor is on for cooling.
This is an awesome build. One idea. If the wiring is easy to get to then consider LED lighting on the inside. You can use the switch to turn on and off and use a form of battery to power it instead of a constant current. If its a lithium battery then it wouldnt have problems with the cycling being its only charging source.
No need for battery, the schematic is simple on these units. I think someone just doesnt want to remove 11 kegs from the freezer to move it
automobiliben
Well-Known Member
Anybody had luck with a "tap light" type product and forget hard wiring all together?
OP
OP
No need for battery, the schematic is simple on these units. I think someone just doesnt want to remove 11 kegs from the freezer to move it
True, I don't want to pull all the kegs out.
However, I found I really just didn't have a need for the light. My garage is well lit and we only open the door to grab a chilled glass.Are those 4" or 5" shanks? Also, have you tried putting any sankey kegs in your keezer. I usually have 1 commercial keg on tap at all times in addition to my homebrew. I feel like a the sankey coupler with lines attached wont fit in the bottom section given the height you chose.
OP
OP
Shanks are 4". I've not put a sanke in mine, but a friend that has the same setup has lagered in a sanke in his. You may need a low profile sanke tap though.
Just a thought... It only takes a few minutes to push the beer from a sanke to a corny.
I feel like I want to have the fan on 100% of the time regardless or not if the compressor is on. However, I have't tested to see how loud it is so maybe this is not a good idea.
ManhattanProjectBrewing
Well-Known Member
I have a similar upright frost-free (Older Kenmore but the interior looks exactly like yours) I inherited from my grandmother. However I did not see this thread until AFTER I installed my Ranco Temp Controller. Doh! Where I think I went wrong is I drilled the hole (Single 1/4" hole because I am only using this unit as a ferm / lager chamber) in the SIDE of the freezer instead of the BACK like yours... Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?
Dang, I shoulda did a heckuva lot more research before setting this unit up. Also, I did NOT rewire anything. I simply plugged my temp control unit in and the freezer into the temp controller. Am I doing this wrong? The freezer sides are WAY hot when cooling What do you suggest I do at this point? Any help / suggestion (from anyone) would be greatly appreciated! Cheers and many thanks again in advance for your replies!
Best,
-JM
Dang, I shoulda did a heckuva lot more research before setting this unit up. Also, I did NOT rewire anything. I simply plugged my temp control unit in and the freezer into the temp controller. Am I doing this wrong? The freezer sides are WAY hot when cooling What do you suggest I do at this point? Any help / suggestion (from anyone) would be greatly appreciated! Cheers and many thanks again in advance for your replies!
Best,
-JM
i am currently piecing together parts to make a chest keezer. i did that cause i thought i would have more room and be able to fit more. now i am thinking about switching to an upright. i have an upright now that i use for food, but the shelves are built into the cooling system so i wouldnt be able to use that one. Great build!
OP
OP
Does it still run fine? Drilling in the side is not where you want to be because of the coils. However, you could have got lucky and missed the coil and it will still work fine. You just need to plug it in and see.
For wiring, you really should bypass the defrost cycle. No reason to have that kick in when you're trying to chill. Search your model number to see if you can find a wiring diagram (some units have the diagram attached also).
OP
OP
The cold comes from the top and circulates to the bottom. Once chilled to the proper temp, it cycles on and off very little. I wouldn't worry about keeping the fan running all the time. It is likely not meant for continuous duty and could fail early.
user 78027
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2011
- Messages
- 274
- Reaction score
- 13
You only messed it up if it doesn't cool anymore. If the inside is cool after you plug it in, that isn't a problem.
Do you know if it was hot before you started using it with the controller. I would plug the freezer into the wall and see how it operates. If it is hot just plugged into the wall, then the problem is the freezer and you will have to decide what to do with it. First thing I would do is take a vacuum cleaner and clean the dust from the condenser area. It may just be working too hard.
OP
OP
In normal operation, the sides do get hot (especially when doing an initial cool down). What matters is whether it is actually doing the cooling. If a coil was punctured, it's not going to cool. If the sides are hot and it is cold inside, then it is fine.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2013
- Messages
- 328
- Reaction score
- 87
Also, had you popped a coil, you would have known pretty much immediately as the freon would have vented in your face. How do I know you ask? An unfortunate event involving a hammer, a screwdriver, and an attempt to help my BIL remove a large buildup of ice from his freezer. No bueno.
mike_in_winchester
Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2012
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 1
one-L said:
Been there, done that, got a new reefer...
justkev52
Well-Known Member
How did you remove the shelves with the cooling lines running through them?
I have an extra freezer like that. Nice job!
I have an extra freezer like that. Nice job!
OP
OP
Frost-free models do not have any shelves with lines in them. If you have a model like that, it is a regular freezer and is not suitable for this.
justkev52
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Oh well. Guess I'll stick with my 4 tap keezer.
JonW, I don't know how you use vinyl hose. I used some initially on my build as per your suggestion due to the door. Could taste the hose in all my beers. Had to replace it with hard barrier lines. Im thinking I will pick up a bunch of 90 deg SS elbows to help organize the hard lines.
Similar threads
