American IPA Stone Ruination Clone

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Cooked up an 11g batch of starter wort last night without thinking about it. Forgot to scale this recipe from 5g to 10.5g before going to the brew shop, so it's going to be a Franken-Ruination of substitutions. Will stow the Munich I bought for another attempt.

About 5# shy on 2-row, my Crystal 20 turned out to be Crystal 15, and am also short on it, so here's what's being cooked up today:

24 lbs 2.4 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
3 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Ale Malt (2 Row) GW Maltier (2.8 SRM)
1 lbs 0.8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 15L (15.0 SRM)
1 lbs 0.8 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)
3.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.60 %] - Boil 60.0 min
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min
2.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min
2.2 pkg Dry English Ale (White Labs #WLP007) [35.49 ml]
4.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

Est Original Gravity 1.077 SG
Bitternuess (IBUs) 112.7 IBUs
Color 7.7 SRM
Est ABV 8.0%
 
I brewed this a month ago, og came in a bit low at 1.06, took a sample yesterday and fg is at 1.004. I made a yeast starter with wlp002 as per stones recipe. Fermentation was very aggressive, lost almost 1 gallon due to blowoff and trub. The sample I tasted seemed fine, no signs of infection. Is this fg ok? I've never had a beer go so low before, but this is only my ninth batch. Recipe used 8lb Dme, 1 lb crystal 40. Thanks for the replies.
 
No, with a hydrometer. Ive taken into account temp at reading, can't figure out why it's so low. My hydrometer reads 1.000 with distiller h20 so. Think it's right on. Thinking about adding some malto to it before bottling to increase it's body. Any thoughts on this? How much? Thanks.
 
My beers finish that low with lower mash temps. Might be hot with that abv but probably not bad. Dry hopping and co2 helps
 
I'm an extract brewer, so are mash temps something that I need to be concerned about? I steep my grains at around 160 for 30-40 mins depending onnthe recipe.
 
I'm an extract brewer, so are mash temps something that I need to be concerned about? I steep my grains at around 160 for 30-40 mins depending onnthe recipe.

Nope. Most of your fermentables are coming from extract
 
I am thinking about brewing something based on the recipe basically trying to create a 5.5%ish ABV with a similar hop flavor and characteristic to Ruination. I was thinking the following
5 Gal
6lbs Golden Light dme
1lb Crystal 15L
0.5oz Cascade @ 60min (have it laying around)
0.5oz Centennial @ 20min
0.5oz Centennial @ 15min
1.0oz Centennial @ 10min
1.0oz Centennial @ 5min
1.0oz Centennial @ 1min
1pk- US-05
Dry Hop w/ 2oz Centennial 7days in secondary

I think this lands me somewhere near 55IBU and is kind of like a "hop burst" method. Any thoughts? Will this get me close to what I am trying to achieve? I would love some feedback. Thanks
 
I am thinking about brewing something based on the recipe basically trying to create a 5.5%ish ABV with a similar hop flavor and characteristic to Ruination. I was thinking the following
5 Gal
6lbs Golden Light dme
1lb Crystal 15L
0.5oz Cascade @ 60min (have it laying around)
0.5oz Centennial @ 20min
0.5oz Centennial @ 15min
1.0oz Centennial @ 10min
1.0oz Centennial @ 5min
1.0oz Centennial @ 1min
1pk- US-05
Dry Hop w/ 2oz Centennial 7days in secondary

I think this lands me somewhere near 55IBU and is kind of like a "hop burst" method. Any thoughts? Will this get me close to what I am trying to achieve? I would love some feedback. Thanks

All I can tell you is that I've hop-bursted before and the resulting beer was fantastic. Be sure to use something relatively smooth for the bittering and 20m addition, though. Steep the crystal on the low end, 155 or below, to reduce unfermentables. I think you'll want this super dry, which is how mine turned out, but you can't control the extract's % of fermentables.
 
Not being able to control the fermentables of the extract is part of the reason I want to try this. My last few extract brews have started at 1.068 and finished at 1.020-1.018. I would like to have something that finishes drier than the last few batches have. So i figure using less extract and starting lower will help me finish lower (1.014-1.012). Result of a lower ABV just means I can drink more of it!
 
I think you should be able to get lower with US-05. I did Yooper's recipe and used US-05. My OG was 1.070. It was at 1.014 after 1 week. It rocked along in a water bath at 68 deg. I will dry hop this weekend and bottle the next. I plan on taking my FG reading at that time.
 
Not being able to control the fermentables of the extract is part of the reason I want to try this. My last few extract brews have started at 1.068 and finished at 1.020-1.018. I would like to have something that finishes drier than the last few batches have. So i figure using less extract and starting lower will help me finish lower (1.014-1.012). Result of a lower ABV just means I can drink more of it!

If you go with an extra light extract you might be able to get lower. Look for yeasts that can process maltotriose (usually, lager yeasts). The other option is to add a few drops of amylase enzyme into the fermenter. That will break up dextrins, which is really the easiest way to maintain what you're looking for.
 
Good luck. I brewed 5 extract kits that I have notes for before I went AG, and none of them hit the "1.020 wall" that everybody talks about. Interestingly, many extract brews will show an FG of approximately 1.020 if you use a refractometer off eBay with a poorly converted SG scale. The higher the OG, the worse the skew. For example, I had a Fat Tire clone that started at 12.9 Brix and ended at 6.9 Brix. In the refractometer, that looks like 1.033 FG. Using a proper conversion calculator shows it's an FG of 1.013.

Those 5 extract brews that finished without getting stuck at 1.020 were using Nottingham (Irish Red), 1056 (Cream Ale), 1214 (Belgian), 1968 (Porter), and US-05 (Stout).
 
I just transferred my brew into secondary for dry hopping. Is the temperature change to 65 critical? I did it but I am wondering why.
 
I brewed this two weeks ago. OG was a little low at 1.072 and SG was 1.012 today. I am usually really patient, but after tasting the hydrometer sample today I can't wait until this is dry hopped, kegged and carbonated.
 
This has quickly become my go to beer. But it truly has ruined all other beers for me. They all are lacking that beautiful hop flavor and aroma!!
Gotta get another batch started soon.
 
I just transferred my brew into secondary for dry hopping. Is the temperature change to 65 critical? I did it but I am wondering why.

Does anyone have an answer to this? I'm going to bottle my batch in 4 days and the beer tasted great going into the secondary. I'm just wondering if there is a "brewing science" reason for raising the temp during dry hopping. Thanks Yooper for the recipe!:mug:
 
Does anyone have an answer to this? I'm going to bottle my batch in 4 days and the beer tasted great going into the secondary. I'm just wondering if there is a "brewing science" reason for raising the temp during dry hopping. Thanks Yooper for the recipe!:mug:

It's just faster at room temperature. At cooler temperatures, it takes longer for the dryhopping to give up its flavor.
 
I'm thinking of using this malt bill for a kitchen sink IPA.

What'ya think I should use and when?
I've got a bunch of Cascade & Willamette pellets, 3 oz of Citra, 1 oz of Falconers Flight and some whole leaf Willamette that's been in the freezer for a year.

Ideas?
 
Thanks Yooper! This recipe worked out very nicely. The color and flavor were a bit different than the target beer, but by far the best Double IPA I've made.
 
Tried another side by side tonight.

Color is close, clone obviously darker but not terrible
Smell: clone has a stronger hop smell
Taste: ruination is smoother but clone has stronger hops taste. Probably why it's not quite as smooth.

Still very happy and impressed. Could be tweaked a little, but damn good as it is. I think I like it a little better for an in your face IIPA!

image-4092677565.jpg
 
Just bottled this recipe last weekend. Cracked open a bottle today and boy is it delicious. I screwed up the hop additions, accidentally adding 2 ounces of centennial at 45 minutes instead of 30 and 2 more ounces at 10. Even so it came out alright.
My OG was 1.079 and FG was 1.012. Adjusting for temperature it looks like I have about 8.8% ABV.
Thanks for the recipe.
 
Getting my wort up to boil now, am planning to pitch onto the yeast cake from the batch of fizzy yellow that I just bottled off this morning (us-05).
 
Brewed a 3 gallon BIAB of this today. Still learning the ropes with this method, but this was a solid effort. OG 1.066, which works for me. Almost too much grain for the bag (8 lbs). The hydro sample was fascinating to try (my first taste of a IPA pre-fementation) - verrrrrry sweet and hoppy. Mashed for over 75 min @150ish. This beer is really for a hophead friend...I'm really hoping this beer turns out strong. Used US-05. Even picked up a 3 gallon better bottle today for the secondary/dryhop. :)
 
I'm trying this again. Was pleased but want to get it closer to the real thing. Going to use Columbus instead of magnum. Also I used lme last time going to switch to dry to get the more golden color. My question is I've noticed that yoop has it at 8lbs of dry and people are coming up short for their OG.Would 9 lbs be better?
 
jonnyp1980 I'm pretty sure my low OG is more related to relatively poor efficiency with the AG BIAB method. Also, the recipe in BYO (which came from Stone themselves) called for Magnum as the 60 minute bittering addition. Just throwin that out there. Brew on!
 
jonnyp1980 I'm pretty sure my low OG is more related to relatively poor efficiency with the AG BIAB method. Also, the recipe in BYO (which came from Stone themselves) called for Magnum as the 60 minute bittering addition. Just throwin that out there. Brew on!


double posted please detete
 
jonnyp1980 I'm pretty sure my low OG is more related to relatively poor efficiency with the AG BIAB method. Also, the recipe in BYO (which came from Stone themselves) called for Magnum as the 60 minute bittering addition. Just throwin that out there. Brew on!

Oh right on.. didnt know it was a BIAB..i guess i'll try the original recipe and see what happens unless some more peeps chime in and say the extract came in low..really like to hit that 7.7 ish range..thanks for letting me know
:mug:
 
So I planned out a brew-day last minute and used this recipe as kind of a guideline. I had been having low-efficiency issues so I expected to undershoot my SG. I didn't have time to do a starter, but because I was expecting a lower SG I wasn't too worried about pitching directly into the wort.

Well low-and-behold I apparently fixed my efficiency issues and actually overshot the recipes SG (came out at 1.081). While I'm glad I got the kinks worked out of my AG system, I am worried about not using a starter on this brew. I used a 1056 smack-pack. I did break the nutrients and let is sit for about 4 hours before pitching. I started seeing a lot of airlock activity within 8 hours of pitching.

What effect do you think not using a starter is going to have on my brew?
 
So I planned out a brew-day last minute and used this recipe as kind of a guideline. I had been having low-efficiency issues so I expected to undershoot my SG. I didn't have time to do a starter, but because I was expecting a lower SG I wasn't too worried about pitching directly into the wort.

Well low-and-behold I apparently fixed my efficiency issues and actually overshot the recipes SG (came out at 1.081). While I'm glad I got the kinks worked out of my AG system, I am worried about not using a starter on this brew. I used a 1056 smack-pack. I did break the nutrients and let is sit for about 4 hours before pitching. I started seeing a lot of airlock activity within 8 hours of pitching.

What effect do you think not using a starter is going to have on my brew?

IMO I think you will be fine. Congrats on your numbers. :mug:
Did you by chance boil it down a little more to get this? I am hoping to brew this in the next few weeks if my order will ever get here. I ordered my grain 11 days ago. My best is 1.076 but don't have exact volume numbers in those notes. My ones with good notes are 1.070 and 72 even with using 17lb of grain. On those two I added a pound of Carafa III (which might be 1/2 lb too much). It made a great Black IIPA though.
 
brerwing this right now and my ibus dont match his im using beersmith and it says my beer will have 42 ibu im following his schedule idk any ideas what i might be doing wrong on beer smith????:mug: any reply would be great
 
IMO I think you will be fine. Congrats on your numbers. :mug:

Did you by chance boil it down a little more to get this?

I did boil down a little bit. I did a single batch-sparge and guestimated on the volume. I was trying to get 6.5 gallons in the pot pre-boil but ended up with around 7.5. Even then I had some wort left behind in the mash-tun but I was out of room in the pot. I boiled down to 6.5 gallons before doing any of my hop additions.

Now that I got my grain crush and mashing methods down, my next step is getting better at calculating my sparging water volumes.
 
I mashed a little too high due to a faulty thermometer, but Day 10 hydro check showed pretty decent attenuation down to 1.015. Tasty as well! Looking forward to dryhopping stage this weekend.
 
I brewed this up last weekend because I have loads of centennial. I used Columbus instead of magnum and mashed at 149 since I was using wlp002. The brew closet smells amazing and I can't wait to see how this comes out.

I also switched the hop schedule a bit and added a hop stand @180 for 30min
 
I'm pretty late to this thread and I dont think I can read thru all 50+ pages...are people still brewing this with the original recipe?
 
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