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SimonPascal said:
One gallon is nearly a lab test size. I brewed a common bitter, with fuggle in first wort hopping. East Kent golding in my boil. One thing is: I lost nearly 50% of my water in my 60 min boil. What did I do wrong?

Boil-off is a function of pot shape and boil strength. If you normally boil off a gallon an hour in a 5 gallon batch (pretty standard), you will boil off even more in a one gallon batch (assuming you are using the same pot and full heat).
 
SimonPascal said:
One gallon is nearly a lab test size. I brewed a common bitter, with fuggle in first wort hopping. East Kent golding in my boil. One thing is: I lost nearly 50% of my water in my 60 min boil. What did I do wrong?

I loose around 2qts on a 60 min boil. You just need to plan out a little extra, and maybe turn down the boil. I typically have nice rolling boiling, nothing extreme.
 
I typically lose about 30% in the boil. I try to start with about 6 quarts, and also keep it down to a nice low rolling boil.
 
The last two 1 gallon batches I did I:

Decided to just boil a full gallon for batch one, despite the instructions telling me to boil 1.25 gallons. Had to top off the fermenting bucket with a qt of water to get to the full gallon mark. The second batch I boiled the 1.25 gallons as instructed and it came out dead even to a gallon. Full heat was used on batch 1, while I had the temp knob turned a little past medium (4 O Clock position) for batch 2's boil. This was on an electric stove too if that helps.
 
The last two 1 gallon batches I did I:

Decided to just boil a full gallon for batch one, despite the instructions telling me to boil 1.25 gallons. Had to top off the fermenting bucket with a qt of water to get to the full gallon mark. The second batch I boiled the 1.25 gallons as instructed and it came out dead even to a gallon. Full heat was used on batch 1, while I had the temp knob turned a little past medium (4 O Clock position) for batch 2's boil. This was on an electric stove too if that helps.

This help a lot, I will do that with my next week batch. I need to get my sugar maple wood chips soaked for my next brew. (My classic Imperial Stout)
 
This help a lot, I will do that with my next week batch. I need to get my sugar maple wood chips soaked for my next brew. (My classic Imperial Stout)



I'm sure it's safe to say, every stove's going to be different. FWIW, when I first got my 2 and 3 gallon pots, I boiled a gallon of water in my 2G pot to see how long the stove would take to boil. At full heat, I timed it at 14 minutes to full boil. I'm pretty sure it took me that long with batch two and the stove's temp knob being at the 4 o' clock position.


Something I may do is just boil some different amounts of water and make a log of how long it takes my stove to bring X amount of water to a full rolling boil. Then, not only would I have the data I need when I start another batch, I would also have a cleaner water supply to work from.
 
I lost nearly 50% of my water in my 60 min boil. What did I do wrong?

Nothing, really. Assuming you started with 1 gallon, lets say you then lost 1/2 gallon. In that case, add 1/2 gallon to your total sparge volume next time and your next boil will finish pretty much right where you want it. You'll also get a bit of a bump in your efficiency from the extra goodies you strip from the grain.

My method is ~2.5 qt mash for 2lbs of grain, and 2x 2qt batch sparges. The extra 2 qts boil off over the hour and I finish at or just a little under the target volume.
 
YeastHerder said:
Nothing, really. Assuming you started with 1 gallon, lets say you then lost 1/2 gallon. In that case, add 1/2 gallon to your total sparge volume next time and your next boil will finish pretty much right where you want it. You'll also get a bit of a bump in your efficiency from the extra goodies you strip from the grain.

My method is ~2.5 qt mash for 2lbs of grain, and 2x 2qt batch sparges. The extra 2 qts boil off over the hour and I finish at or just a little under the target volume.

So if I want to make a 2 stage infusion, I would just do it with more water because I know I will boil it off?
 
If you don't want to do any sparges, you can add the extra water at the end of the mash. Could heat it to a temp such that adding it brings you to a 170F final temp for a mash out. Lots of ways to deal with this I imagine. I always batch sparge, so not really knowledgeable about other ways.
 
I'm thinking of setting up a lab at my place. We brew at my buddy's place 3V 23L. I would like to brew more often and test more recipes. 1 gallon would be perfect for my small space, get more variety, tweak recipes, low cost of equip. (I already invested alot on our other set-up).

I would do my mash in a 11L kettle with a brew bag on my stove... Regular mash (as in my cooler) then pull the grains out, into colander over kettle and batch sparge... This way I think I can end up with 7.75 or 8L pre-boil in my kettle (need to test exactly mow much I want pre-boil...) and up with 5.75L.

It's not really BIAB seeing as I will be batch sparging to get more efficiency and trying to make high gravity beers In this small set-up. Im trying to find a way to make 1gal with very low cost equip. and being able to easily transfer the same recipe to 23L on my 3V set-up... If i do full volume BIAB I will need more grains, bigger kettle so I can obtain higher gravity, and recipes won't turn out exactly the same on 3V...

Has anybody tried this? Will an 11L kettle be big enough? For those who use a cooler for a 1gal, what size cooler do you use? Haven't bought the kettle yet, trying to figure out the exact size first. All I'm missing is kettle and sec. fermenter have everything else from my 3V....
 
Try a 2 gallon Rubbermaid cooler from HD for 10 bucks and do a mash in a bag. Makes life a lot easier without having to keep a stove or burner at 150 which isn't very exact

I use my 4 quart stockpot and start with 6 quarts and top off as the boil goes. I do 5 liter batches
 
Imho 11 l is too small. You should go for at least 15 or even 20 liters kettle. It will allow you to do easily up to 2,5 gal batches( if you care). Quick partials, extract etc.
Biab requires a little bit more recipe tweaking as well (playing with efficiency: more basemalts-->boosting SG; double milling, dunk sparging etc).
 
Lol! I think the title of the thread is "1-gallon brewers", so pushing him to 2.5gal batches seems a little silly, especially since he can do bigger batches any time he wants on his 3V system.

11 liters will work fine for 1-gallon batches. I use a 2-gallon pot I got as a gift 10 years ago. I also have another 1-gallon pot that I heat my sparge water in.
 
I like a 2.5 to 3 gallon kettle. I start my boils with 2.2 in the kettle and tend to do 90-120 minute boils. I can't even remember what my kettle is...I think its 4 gallons but that is like to the brim, so it realistically can hold a 3 gallon boil or maybe even less. Its ideal for longer boils, and have a small enough diameter to fit perfectly on one stove burner.
 
pjcampbell said:
Curious why you do 90-120 minute boils?

Hop utilization, if I was to guess, plus breaking down proteins. Cheaper to make hoppy beers when you don't have to use as much bittering hops. Think DFH
 
I wanting to start trying 1 gallon batches for experimental beers and because I can fit 1 gallon jugs between my larger buckets in my fermenting chamber. What is a typical yield after siphoning? Do most people still siphon to a bottling bucket or just bottle directly from the fermenting jug? I just feel that the beer loss from siphoning and beer loss that can't make it to the spigot in the bottling bucket it would be too great to really make 1 gallon batches worthwhile.

By the way, this is my first post :) I've wanted to post other questions but then I do a search and find my questions have already been asked and answered. Thanks for a great community! :mug:
 
I wanting to start trying 1 gallon batches for experimental beers and because I can fit 1 gallon jugs between my larger buckets in my fermenting chamber. What is a typical yield after siphoning? Do most people still siphon to a bottling bucket or just bottle directly from the fermenting jug? I just feel that the beer loss from siphoning and beer loss that can't make it to the spigot in the bottling bucket it would be too great to really make 1 gallon batches worthwhile.

By the way, this is my first post :) I've wanted to post other questions but then I do a search and find my questions have already been asked and answered. Thanks for a great community! :mug:

I don't take hydrometer readings and I just bottled a test batch of MO/Styrian Goldings with Blueberry, lemon thyme. I bottled 81/2 bottles.

I transfer from my 1 gallon jug to a 2 gallon bottling bucket. I drilled the hole very close to the bottom of the bucket to make sure I get all the beer I can get.

I use to just bottle straight from my jug but had to have some help near the end. Now I can go solo.
 
do you have any idea how hard it is to find other small batch brewers?

i don't have much to add today, except that i'm really happy i found this thread.


i'm doing ALL my brewing in one gallon batches.

:)
 
Havent worked my way thru all the posts yet but Ill be doing small batches to transition into AG. The 1 gal starter kit from NB is better than Brooklyns, but BBS has more interesting recipe kits. Dividing by 5 or 6 at the LHBS is a good option too.

Does anyone have the BBS small batch book?
 
Havent worked my way thru all the posts yet but Ill be doing small batches to transition into AG. The 1 gal starter kit from NB is better than Brooklyns, but BBS has more interesting recipe kits. Dividing by 5 or 6 at the LHBS is a good option too.

Does anyone have the BBS small batch book?

No, but I mostly use brew software (brew mate, specifically) to scale down my recipes. That way you can adjust recipe volumes easy, without all the crazy decimal places, and see the effect on your gravity readings when you round off.
 
Jesus, the stuff just keeps coming! Anything else seems wrong to you guys?

Temp is 70F (a tad bit high but not crazy, recipe calls for 65F), no starter, no re-hydration. Should I have scaled back on the amount of yeast? I used one full pack.



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looks just like mine.

i leave the blow-off tube in for about 5 days after brewing, and then switch to an airlock for the rest of the primary.

so, if you are doing something wrong, so am i.
 
Has anybody tried this? Will an 11L kettle be big enough? For those who use a cooler for a 1gal, what size cooler do you use? Haven't bought the kettle yet, trying to figure out the exact size first. All I'm missing is kettle and sec. fermenter have everything else from my 3V....

11L sounds plenty big for 1 gallon batches. I use a 6qt pot (mash) and a 9qt pot (boil).

Mash is 2lbs grain + 2.5qts water in the 6qt pot for 60 minutes on the stove, flame off, kettle wrapped in a couple bath towels for insulation. Mash in at 164 = mash temp of ~152. After 60 mins, mash temp ~147.

I like the smaller pot for mashing because it retains heat better. Imagine the shape of your mash liquid+grain in the pot -- the closer it is to a sphere (minimum surface area) the better the heat retention. The closer it gets to a pancake (maximum surface area), the faster your heat loss.

I batch sparge (twice with 2qts at 170F) by pulling the grain bag out and dunking it into the sparge water, mix the grain around for a min and then pull it back out. All liquids (~6.5qts) into a 9qt pot for the full boil.

The OGs I hit are typically in the 1.054-56 range. There is room in this setup for probably an extra 1 lb of grain to reach ~ 1.080. To go above that I'd need to switch mash pots.

Oh, and if you cover your pot in towels on the stove, don't use the burner to help maintain mash temp.. unless you *really* don't like those towels.
 
looks just like mine.

i leave the blow-off tube in for about 5 days after brewing, and then switch to an airlock for the rest of the primary.

so, if you are doing something wrong, so am i.

Yes, I have learned that the blow off tube is a must with 1 gallon carboys.

Only, since I started pitching the right amount of yeast, 2-3 grams instead of a full 7 gram pack, I no longer have Krausen coming over the top for 3 days.
 
Havent worked my way thru all the posts yet but Ill be doing small batches to transition into AG. The 1 gal starter kit from NB is better than Brooklyns, but BBS has more interesting recipe kits. Dividing by 5 or 6 at the LHBS is a good option too.

Does anyone have the BBS small batch book?

i use ibrewmaster on the ipad.

they also have a version on the mac, i think

scales all the recipes for me
 
Yes, I have learned that the blow off tube is a must with 1 gallon carboys.

Only, since I started pitching the right amount of yeast, 2-3 grams instead of a full 7 gram pack, I no longer have Krausen coming over the top for 3 days.

the amount of krausen coming out varies all the time, but i can almost guarantee that if i don't use the blow off tube i will be cleaning up a big mess.

there is no downside to using the blow-off, and there is a big downside if i don't.

:)
 
Curious why you do 90-120 minute boils?

Lower Ph, better coagulation, more mallaird reactions ("maltier" brews), Randy Mosher suggests using a 120 boil if you can't do a decoction.

You also get more carmalization and color from your beer. Finally, with a 120 boil (and since I hop burst, I only add hops from 20 minutes to the finish) I get plenty of time to transfer, bottle, or relax. Your also using less grain to get to a higher OG
 
looks just like mine.

i leave the blow-off tube in for about 5 days after brewing, and then switch to an airlock for the rest of the primary.

so, if you are doing something wrong, so am i.

I use a #6 plug with 1/4 tube for mine. I am making a "decanter" bottle to harvest the CO2 from the fermentation for my aquarium plants. But that's an other topic.

Blow-off tubes are way better then the "bonde" thing.
 
Revvy said:
Perhaps you might want to consider that James Spencer, probably is doing it "correctly" whatever way he's doing it? I've found a lot of times the "theory" that doing "x" is going to affect head retention tends not to actually occur, like so many folks are so sure it will. I've used tortilla chips, and chocolate, in the mash tun and have had perfect head in those beers.

If you're really curious, then why don't you actually check on the basic brewing site, and see if he posted a video, or email him, or write to him on facebook.

Folks on here have managed to make peanut butter beers, with really peanut butter, and have had fine head.

A good article in BYO this month about using nuts and seeds, and dealing with the oils.

A brief quote: "I found that if you balance your recipe with ingredients to help head retention, the small amount of oil is not an issue. Altering your mash schedule, adding grains like crystal, wheat, or Carafoam® and using more alpha acids from hops can enhance head-retaining proteins."
 
do you have any idea how hard it is to find other small batch brewers?

i don't have much to add today, except that i'm really happy i found this thread.


i'm doing ALL my brewing in one gallon batches.

:)

+1 dadshomebrewing. All hail to the small batch brewers!
 
Havent worked my way thru all the posts yet but Ill be doing small batches to transition into AG. The 1 gal starter kit from NB is better than Brooklyns, but BBS has more interesting recipe kits. Dividing by 5 or 6 at the LHBS is a good option too.

Does anyone have the BBS small batch book?

I don't have the book but would be more than happy to help you scale down any recipe you may have. Just contact me through this forum, FB, or our website and we'll help you in any way we can. Cheers!
 
Havent worked my way thru all the posts yet but Ill be doing small batches to transition into AG. The 1 gal starter kit from NB is better than Brooklyns, but BBS has more interesting recipe kits. Dividing by 5 or 6 at the LHBS is a good option too.

Does anyone have the BBS small batch book?

i bought the BBS book because i just started AG brewing. all the recipes i tried are amazing. i've brewed a few of them. after a handful it kinda teaches you how to create your own recipes. i recommend it if you need an easy way to start AG brewing. my 2 cents.
 
One small drawback from BBS book, would be for me, that almost 99 % recommended mash temps are 152F. So not exactly as some styles are calling for.
 
mirogster said:
One small drawback from BBS book, would be for me, that almost 99 % recommended mash temps are 152F. So not exactly as some styles are calling for.

I have that book as well, but I guess the idea is that you get started quickly and easily. I try to focus on making my process better, not on nitty gritty details like that. (but that's me, I'm not trying to win awards.....yet)
 
I've done several of their recipes and they are good. But I like finding a clone I want to do and scale down. Just brewed up Highland's Gaelic Ale on Sunday. My first batch since May and got it going in my new fermenter controlled with the ebay temp controller. That thing is awesome and wish I would have done that way sooooner as I would have brewed over the hot ass summer.
 
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