sivdrinks
Well-Known Member
LAbrewer said:
Or you mashed a bit high.
American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract
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Or you mashed a bit high.
hio3791
Well-Known Member
Kegged this morning. 10 gal batch split between 2 buckets, one on US-05 and the other on Nottingham. OG was 1.060 because I overshot my water volumes and ended up at around 11.5 gal. Fermented at 63F. First 7 days in primary were super active. After 14 days, dry hops were added. Today, 7 days later, I kegged both buckets.
I decided to filter out the hops using a pantyhose tied over the auto siphon tube. It worked well but wow, was it slow and I kept losing the siphon. Since I had extra beer, I decided to leave about 1 gal on each bucket. After sealing off the kegs, I siphoned the remaining beer from both buckets into a separate single vessel, combining both batches. Should be interesting to compare tasting notes from each batch.
US-05 finished at 1.006 making it 7.1% ABV while Nottingham finished at 1.008 making it 6.8% ABV. Both yeast were pitched dry. I only rehydrate when OGs are above 1.070. The batch was mashed at 154F. I always get amazing attenuation from dry yeast.
I haven't tasted the beer yet but it smelled wonderful. Can't wait for it to be carbonated!
I decided to filter out the hops using a pantyhose tied over the auto siphon tube. It worked well but wow, was it slow and I kept losing the siphon. Since I had extra beer, I decided to leave about 1 gal on each bucket. After sealing off the kegs, I siphoned the remaining beer from both buckets into a separate single vessel, combining both batches. Should be interesting to compare tasting notes from each batch.
US-05 finished at 1.006 making it 7.1% ABV while Nottingham finished at 1.008 making it 6.8% ABV. Both yeast were pitched dry. I only rehydrate when OGs are above 1.070. The batch was mashed at 154F. I always get amazing attenuation from dry yeast.
I haven't tasted the beer yet but it smelled wonderful. Can't wait for it to be carbonated!
OP
OP
You didn't taste it? That made me laugh, because sometimes I even refill my hydrometer test jar, just to drink another sample. I guess I have a thing for warm flat beer!
My wife said her parents were advised to wean their babies on warm flat beer. Explains a lot.
hio3791
Well-Known Member
I did taste the wort before fermentation. It was crystal clear and tasted very good. I always taste the beer post fermentation but it still had hop sediment floating around, so it would have tasted overly bitter.
I guess that since I filtered it while going into the kegs, I could have stolen a sample. It did look crystal clear going into the kegs.
But it was 5:30AM... nothing wrong with beer in the morning but it wouldn't have gone well after drinking a couple of cups of coffee.
Based on smell alone, I am guessing this will be one delicious beer.
Thank you for sharing this recipe!
Cheers.
Just kegged. OG was 1.074 and FG was 1.020. I added a little extra 2 row because my efficiency has been low. Beersmith estimated OG at 1.073 and FG at 1.019. I say that is pretty damn good. This was my first AG using spring water since I believe my tap water is giving my beers an off flavor. I tasted it and I couldn't detect any off flavor and it tasted pretty damn close to a DFH60. I can't wait for this to be ready.
Might make this version next with "amber" malt. I couldn't get thomas fawcett though. Yesterday I noticed that my bottle of dfh60 in the fridge that I have been saving for a few weeks to compare with the clone has snow on the bottom. I wonder if it might be worth using it for this recipe.
Roadliner
Well-Known Member
Racking into the secondary today!!
bellmtbbq
Well-Known Member
LAbrewer said:
They filter yeast I think, just floaty particles in suspension
hio3791
Well-Known Member
Beer is carbonated and all I can say is "wow"! Amarillo and Simcoe are my new favorite hops! This recipe is so simple but yields wonderful flavor and aroma. Thanks for sharing this recipe!
Looking to make this next. However I can't find amarillo.
I have a bunch of citra, simcoe, c-type and cascade. And a little saaz, summit, tett, northern brewer and williamette. Any way I could mix to get closer to amarillo?
I was figuring on half citra half cascade would get me something fruity/floral.
I have a bunch of citra, simcoe, c-type and cascade. And a little saaz, summit, tett, northern brewer and williamette. Any way I could mix to get closer to amarillo?
I was figuring on half citra half cascade would get me something fruity/floral.
mike_in_ak
Well-Known Member
Amarillo appears to be getting distributed in recent weeks. Internet has it now, my LHBS just got some in. Freshops.com is where I just ordered.
Was just about to order a LB of Amarillo from Freshops but noticed the S&H was over $10. Seems pretty high for only a pound...
I noticed this same thing. With the shipping, it was cheaper at my lhbs so I gave them my business. I try to when I can.
D_Nyholm said:
Yea unfortunately my LHBS has been out of stock for a while.
Farmhouse put them up today. Ordered 4 oz myself, but I believe they have lbs up for grabs
Mojzis said:
Damn, out of stock already!
OP
OP
sparksanthony
Active Member
Brewing an 8 gallon batch of this tomorrow. Adding in a touch of Palisades with the Amarillo and Simcoe and using WLP007 (Dry English Ale). Also had to sub Muntons Amber Grain (2L) for the Thomas Fawcett. Anyone ever used this grain? Hopefully it would be an acceptable replacement?? That is the only Amber Malt my LHBS had. Added in 8oz of Crystal 40 for color (think I could have gotten away with 4-6 oz. Hopefully will be pretty close to the real thing with the changes I am making. Very excited to be brewing. Been a few months!
OP
OP
I'm used Munton's before- it's pretty close. I prefer the Thomas Fawcett slightly, but it's not really that big of a difference.
So I made this one on Sunday. I mashed in with 4.25 gal at 156F, and at 70 minutes and 154F I added 1 gallon of 180F water. Then I stirred, vorlaufed and drained followed by 3 gallons of the same pot of water (175ish). No science there just winging it. :fro:
I ended up with 1.060 and about 5.7 gal. I tried for 5.5. I'm actually happy with the gravity since I want it close to the original but I hope the hopping is going to work too. I added .4 oz warrior at 60 and .4 oz warrior to 35 since my AA was about 12% instead of the 16% in the recipe. It's been going strong at about 67 for the first 2 days and now down to 65 on day 3 where it will probably remain since I'm too cheap to run the heat higher during the day. I plan to dry hop in the primary on day 5 if the gravity is below 1.020. My goal is 1.014 but a few extra won't hurt either. On day 12 I will crash for 2 days and keg on day 14 at 40 psi for 3 days. I'll report back with the results.
I ended up with 1.060 and about 5.7 gal. I tried for 5.5. I'm actually happy with the gravity since I want it close to the original but I hope the hopping is going to work too. I added .4 oz warrior at 60 and .4 oz warrior to 35 since my AA was about 12% instead of the 16% in the recipe. It's been going strong at about 67 for the first 2 days and now down to 65 on day 3 where it will probably remain since I'm too cheap to run the heat higher during the day. I plan to dry hop in the primary on day 5 if the gravity is below 1.020. My goal is 1.014 but a few extra won't hurt either. On day 12 I will crash for 2 days and keg on day 14 at 40 psi for 3 days. I'll report back with the results.
Just dont crash with a blowoff tube attached thats in a jug of StarSan like I did over the weekend...
I wound up with about 1/8 gallon of 3 week old starsan/yeast liquid in my DFH 60 batch. :smack:I bottled it anyway but will NEVER make this mistake again... Hopefully it turns out okay. :cross:
hio3791
Well-Known Member
Well, I've had the chance to compare Nottingham against US05. The latter wins. I admit, it was my first time using Notty and I didn't care much for it. It gave me the worst heart burn and just didn't like the taste all too much. It was disappointing until I tasted the batch with US05 and that blew me away. I think Notty masked the flavor/aroma hops too much and made the beer taste bitter. US05 on the other hand, ferments much cleaner and lets the hops shine right through.
I use US05 for nearly all my beers and I love it. I wanted to experiment with Notty. I may try it again, but not on an IPA.
I use US05 for nearly all my beers and I love it. I wanted to experiment with Notty. I may try it again, but not on an IPA.
Which amount of hops do I add? The first hop schedule in the recipe has considerably less of an amount than the 2nd schedule further down in the recipe.
So which do I follow doing all grain? (I'm probably getting something wrong here)
So which do I follow doing all grain? (I'm probably getting something wrong here)
Floydsview
Active Member
Use the hop schedule in the first recipe (all grain). The second recipe is for extract and with a smaller boil less hop utilization therefore more hops required.
After four days I got 1.014, and it remained there on the fifth day after I brewed it, so I dry hopped then. I'm completely satisfied with that. It kind of worried me for a second with 156 mash temp, but all appears well.:rockin:
The taste appeared to be a very nice blonde, kind of what I assumed centennial blonde might have tasted before brewing it. I was going to transfer a half gallon to a soda bottle before dh but forgot. Oh well.
kombat
Well-Known Member
I'm planning on brewing this tomorrow. Is Caraamber an acceptable substitute for Thomas Fawcett amber malt?
Roadliner
Well-Known Member
Just bottled today at 6.6%
bellmtbbq
Well-Known Member
Im using the simple grain bill in a couple weeks with new experimental hops
Amber malt is kilned malted barley.
Crystal malt is roasted unmalted barley.
Also - the lovibond is a little off in this case.
Should still be a good beer though
kombat
Well-Known Member
Hang on - I don't think that's accurate. Crystal malt is indeed malted (that's why it's "crystal malt" and not "crystal barley"). It's green malt (barley that's been malted but not yet dried/kilned) and heated in damp environment such that the grains essentially mash inside their own kernels. That is, the starches are converted to sugars internally, so they don't need to be mashed (where enzymes from a base malt would normally do the conversion).
"Roasting" is a specific type of processing that involves heating to very high temperatures. So I think crystal malt is neither "unmalted" (in which case it wouldn't be called "malt") nor roasted.
Someone please correct me if my understanding is incorrect, I'm still learning this stuff.
I missed that unmalted remark.
As I know:
Crystal malts are mashed then kilned. (unfermentable sugars that are toasted for flavor)
Amber malts are just kilned. (dry kilned for the toasty/roasted flavor like biscuit)
Both are malted. (you can make home made crystal malt out of two row)
The question is where would cara-amber fall.
As I know:
Crystal malts are mashed then kilned. (unfermentable sugars that are toasted for flavor)
Amber malts are just kilned. (dry kilned for the toasty/roasted flavor like biscuit)
Both are malted. (you can make home made crystal malt out of two row)
The question is where would cara-amber fall.
^i stand corrected. Crystal Malts do get malted.
OP
OP
Any malts that start with cara- are crystal/caramel malts. Caravienna, Caramunich, Caraaroma, carared, cara-amber- all crystal malts.
Amber malt is a slightly darker base malt. The best sub would be biscuit malt or aromatic malt, but crystal malt would be acceptable but different.
bellmtbbq
Well-Known Member
Just use the Thomas Fawcett Amber malt- order six ounces from Rebel Brewer for like 4 bucks shipping. If you want a clone, use it, it's very distinctive and impossible to replace
