Wort Chiller Build

So I'm building a wort chiller and using some scrap I cant seem to get a nice tight bend to the 3/8" copper (for coming up from the bottom and also supply down from top). So I'm thinking about soldering on some 90 degree elbows to make it nice and clean. Is there any reason not to use elbows vs. bending one piece? Also for those in the know how do you get the nice tight radius on the bends, what tool are you using that give you such small radius?

There's nothing wrong with soldering elbows. By far the easiest way to get a 90° bend that tight without kinking it.

That’s what I was thinking and why I was using scrap first. A guy at the hardware store actually told me you can’t solder soft copper, which a torch quickly disproved.

Some people will fill the coil/tubing with salt before they bend it to help reduce kinking of the tubing.

I vote for soldering 90's or using 90 deg. compressions.

I can make a nice IC with 3/8" OD tubing and no tools or soldering. Once you get to 1/2", I saw screw it and solder the nineties.

Nickeldeposit said:

So I'm building a wort chiller and using some scrap I cant seem to get a nice tight bend to the 3/8" copper (for coming up from the bottom and also supply down from top). So I'm thinking about soldering on some 90 degree elbows to make it nice and clean. Is there any reason not to use elbows vs. bending one piece? Also for those in the know how do you get the nice tight radius on the bends, what tool are you using that give you such small radius?

Click to expand...

I have had luck using a pipe bending tool, but to be honest, I used a 90's for my bends and a 3/8 to 1/2 coupling fitting to extend 1/2 copper to my ball valves. Sweated all of them and they have worked great for 40 plus beers.

I just brushed any remnant of flux off and washed the chiller very well in some cleaner and rinsed.

Been looking at building one of these as well, went to home depot to find out they only come in 20 and 50' lengths, No 25" which is what I was hoping for. I bought the 20, 1/2 OD 3/8 ID. I have the bending tools and everything else, but I'm starting to question the 20" stuff. Should I go back and get the 50? and if so, is it really that tough to put a nice bend up on the lower end, and should I really be looking at soldering?

I don't have the soldering gear to start with, and I'm trying to keep this cost effective. (IE, 10-20 dollars less than purchasing online.))

Don't use LEAD BASED SOLDER!!!!!

pouring salt in the tube prior to bending is, well, genius... wish I thought of that.

Can you heat it with a torch to help get a tighter bend without kinking?

I'll be buying 50' of 3/8 OD to be split between a 12' beer line chilling pump and an IC. The beer line chilling will require some tight turns that I'd love to be able to bend because they'll be a pain in the ass to solder in place (tight fit in the cabinet).

What's the melting point of salt?

I always use a spring tubing bender.

http://www.tpub.com/content/shopequipment/TM-9-243/css/TM-9-243_221.htm

I have made some very tight bends with these and it is easier and faster than soldering. HD has them. I think I paid $10 for four different sizes.

NaCl Melts at 1474f. Most solder melts way below that so you should be safe. If your worried use sand, its mp is a bit higher.

BJ

About how tall and how wide is that 50' x 3/8" chiller? I am planning on building one as well and can only find 3/8" copper coils in lengths of 20' for around $20 or 60' for around $70. I was hoping to get away with the 20' so I don't have to spend the extra money, but I'm trying to get an idea if it will be big enough. Right now I am doing partial boils at around 3 gallons inside a 6 gallon pot. I am nervous that full 5-gallon boils would cause boil-overs. Any suggestions?

I just did some calculations and I think I should be able to get by with 20 ft. for now. Thanks for the pics. That gives me a good visual.

Think of a basic plane and go for it. I used 50ft of 3/8 copper tubing and it works great!
I did put a few very minor kinks in it while i was bending it all together so watch out for that.
I wrote about it too in more detail if you want to take a look.
http://winklerbrewery.blogspot.com/2010/10/creating-my-wort-chiller.html

Good Luck!

Ugh, looks like I'm going to have to build my own. LHBS wants like $90 for the $25-foot one. For that much I can get 50 feet, plus the spring-tube-bender. Not sure what other hardware is involved, but I'll figure it out.

What is the best kind of solder to use? i am assuming standard pipe solder for water lines??

I need to build one this week as my first brew is going to be on sat.

kickrjason said:

What is the best kind of solder to use? i am assuming standard pipe solder for water lines??

I need to build one this week as my first brew is going to be on sat.

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The stuff sold as "100% lead free silver solder" for potable water use is what you want. Make sure you get compatible flux for it...

Cheers!

I bent my 3/8" tubing well past 90 degrees (a v-shape) using this for $6 (in store price is the same as online). Very clean looking bends, no kinks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

So far it's looking good. I am planning on using S.S. Wire or copper wire ( from romex) to strengthen it up.

Look at this thread here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-interwoven-rib-cage-immersion-chiller-106415/

You wont need to do anything with the exception of wrapping the tubing around a paint can or corny. Works great too...