What did i do to my dipa!!!!!

To begin...I am a noob.

Long story short I added 8oz of Malt Extract to my wort instead of 3lbs (there was confusion in the instructions and the missing Malt Extract from the 'kit').

Fermentation was active withing 24 hours...yay

After 6 days I transferred to the secondary and dry hopped (which made the beer 'angry' for a bit). Now I have a gnarly green plug of American Magnum hop sludge at the top of my carboy (which is OK I think).

I am set to bottle in a couple days so the current slug of hops doesn't get too funky...

Is my DIPA now neutered to an IPA?....or an over-hopped PA?

Or am I gonna have some brown colored uber hoppy water due to the serious lack of sugars when brewing?

Any 'fixes', or just chalk this batch up to experience? Or maybe dump and try again?

any and all advice appreciated

If you post the whole recipe we can tell you more exactly. But if it was liquid extract you lost about 18 points of gravity, and if it was dry extract you lost 22 points, assuming a 5 gallon batch.

So you are probably just a single IPA now, and since the hops weren't adjusted it will be more bitter than expected.

Don't dump it! And don't try any fixes, at this point that could cause more problems (oxidation or infection) than it would cure. For that matter, you don't even really have a problem, you just made a different beer than you were trying to.

jesserizzo said:

If you post the whole recipe we can tell you more exactly. But if it was liquid extract you lost about 18 points of gravity, and if it was dry extract you lost 22 points, assuming a 5 gallon batch.

So you are probably just a single IPA now, and since the hops weren't adjusted it will be more bitter than expected.

Don't dump it! And don't try any fixes, at this point that could cause more problems (oxidation or infection) than it would cure. For that matter, you don't even really have a problem, you just made a different beer than you were trying to.

Click to expand...

5 gallon batch = Yes.

It was 6lbs liquid extract and supposed to be 3lbs dry malt extract (i used the 8oz DME for bottling instead because of the missing 3lb bag..urgh).

It will be 1 hoppy son-of-a-gun...popped in 5oz hops during the boil and an additional 2oz for the dry hop.

Will take your advice and leave alone. I am very curious as to how this is going to taste

Edit: nevermind, I re-read your post and realize you already dry-hopped it is in secondary. Just leave it alone, it will just be a high bitterness, lower gravity IPA with good hop flavor and aroma.

Just call it a Session IPA...

OK - so it's been in the bottles for a couple weeks....

Week 1 taste test - SUPER SWEET!!! GACK!
Week 2 taste test - VERY Sweet...BUT more hops coming thru..

Is this normal(ish)? I am hoping a few more weeks (or more) will clobber that overbearing sweet flavor (which tastes like the priming sugar i used, not apples).

PS - I do like referring to my 'botched' batch as a Session IPA as opposed to a neutered DIPA

More data required to make any real educated guesses.

actual and entire recipe, including hop schedule

time in primary fermenter

Any and all gravity readings, especially 0riginal gravity and Final gravity before bottling/secondary

time in secondary fermenter

When ya need help here, people are more apt to respond when they have all the applicable information, cause otherwise we are just guessing

JRapp said:

More data required to make any real educated guesses.

actual and entire recipe, including hop schedule

time in primary fermenter

Any and all gravity readings, especially 0riginal gravity and Final gravity before bottling/secondary

time in secondary fermenter

When ya need help here, people are more apt to respond when they have all the applicable information, cause otherwise we are just guessing

Click to expand...

I completely agree on this point. The more information you can provide, the better most of us can tell you were you are headed.

Mouse

Got it -recipe below:

My OG and FG may be wonky (noob)..but this is what I got.

OG: 1.050
FG: 1.035
should be roughly 4% ABV?

6lbs liquid malt extract
.5 lb Gambrunus Munich Malt
.5 lb Great Western crystal
1.8 lb Great Western caramel
.5 lb DME
MISSING was 3 lb DME (ugh...i used the .5lb DME only))

Hop Schedule:
1 oz American Magnum 60 minutes
.5 oz NZ Wakatu 40 minutes
.5 oz NZ Wakatu 20 minutes
.5 oz American Pallisades 20 minutes
.5 oz NZ Saaz 10 minutes
.5 oz American Magnum 10 minutes
.5 oz NZ Saaz 5 minutes
.5 oz American Magnum 5 minutes
1 oz NZ Saaz 1 minute

2 oz Dry Hop - NZ Saaz.

Kept in primary for 6 days.
Transferred to secondary and dry hopped (beer got angry and bubbly)

Kept in secondary for 7 days and transferred to bottle using Corn sugar as primer (5 oz).

Beer week 1 after bottle - GACK SWEEEET
Beer week 2 after bottle - SWEET...but a little hoppier.

Fermentation was 68-70 F.
Bottled kept higher at 72 for 1 week, now down to 68-70

Beer is carbonated..

Predictions?

CHUM_ said:

OG: 1.050
FG: 1.035
should be roughly 4% ABV?

Click to expand...

That is insanely high, will be insanely sweet, and around 2%. Messing up the OG can happen if you didn't do a full boil and didn't get much mixing in the primary with your top up water but getting an FG like that is crazy.

If that was the FG, it was not done fermenting. Which means the beer is sweet because it was not done fermenting.

Actually I am very surprised you haven't had any bottle bombs!

Next time you do any recipe, pretty much throw away the schedule when it comes to primary and secondary fermentation. Never bottle till ya get to near the listed FG, I always wait 3 weeks to a month just because.

libeerty said:

If that was the FG, it was not done fermenting. Which means the beer is sweet because it was not done fermenting.

Click to expand...

Yes, that's for sure. If you plan on going to secondary, please wait much longer than 6 days before transferring. I'd think 2-3 weeks.

libeerty said:

If that was the FG, it was not done fermenting. Which means the beer is sweet because it was not done fermenting.

Click to expand...

JRapp said:

Actually I am very surprised you haven't had any bottle bombs!

Next time you do any recipe, pretty much throw away the schedule when it comes to primary and secondary fermentation. Never bottle till ya get to near the listed FG, I always wait 3 weeks to a month just because.

Click to expand...

thejuanald said:

Yes, that's for sure. If you plan on going to secondary, please wait much longer than 6 days before transferring. I'd think 2-3 weeks.

Click to expand...

got it - makes sense. I'll definitely do that for a Belgian Wit I have in the secondary

so, will my beer 'finish' fermenting in the bottles...provided they don't explode first?

I would try and pry the caps periodically to relieve pressure... A realstic FG will certainly be below 1.020, probably down around 1.010-1.016 depending on yeast... So that's a lot of fermentation still to happen in the bottles...

No, unfortunately standard 12/22 oz bottles will not handle the pressure of the yeast finishing off that beer, which means potential bottle bombs.

You can either stick it in the fridge or put it somewhere cold (below 60F) and that will pretty much put the yeast to sleep and stop carbing/fermentation but you'll basically have hop soda.

Or you can uncap them and dumb them back into a carboy/bucket and let them continue fermenting. You are exposing to oxygen, but you could always dry hop it more and cover any off flavors. Then bottle it again and let it carb.

Like some of the other posters have alluded too, getting a hydrometer is key to preventing this in the future.

Good luck, have fun, don't dump it!!

bobmcstuff said:

I would try and pry the caps periodically to relieve pressure... A realstic FG will certainly be below 1.020, probably down around 1.010-1.016 depending on yeast... So that's a lot of fermentation still to happen in the bottles...

Click to expand...

TwinsBrewers81 said:

No, unfortunately standard 12/22 oz bottles will not handle the pressure of the yeast finishing off that beer, which means potential bottle bombs.

You can either stick it in the fridge or put it somewhere cold (below 60F) and that will pretty much put the yeast to sleep and stop carbing/fermentation but you'll basically have hop soda.

Or you can uncap them and dumb them back into a carboy/bucket and let them continue fermenting. You are exposing to oxygen, but you could always dry hop it more and cover any off flavors. Then bottle it again and let it carb.

Like some of the other posters have alluded too, getting a hydrometer is key to preventing this in the future.

Good luck, have fun, don't dump it!!

Click to expand...

Thanks y'all!

do these suggestions take into account that I originally mucked up the recipe by only adding 8oz DME to the boil as opposed to the 3lbs of DME I was missing?

If so, when prying the caps a bit (like craking the edge and listen for the 'hiss) can I simply recap with the same cap?

CHUM_ said:

Thanks y'all!

do these suggestions take into account that I originally mucked up the recipe by only adding 8oz DME to the boil as opposed to the 3lbs of DME I was missing?

If so, when prying the caps a bit (like craking the edge and listen for the 'hiss) can I simply recap with the same cap?

Click to expand...

They don't need to take that into account. That's water under the bridge. Given the incomplete fermentation, it's probably better that you didn't put the extra 2.5 lbs of DME in the boil kettle. You think it's sweet now, add 20 gravity points to it. Don't be lazy on this one, bottle bombs always make a mess, and somebody could get hurt. At the very least, I suggest putting the bottles into a tupperware tote-box so when they do explode the mess will be contained and bystanders won't take any shrapnel. ;-)

PS, interesting screen name.

jbaysurfer said:

They don't need to take that into account. That's water under the bridge. Given the incomplete fermentation, it's probably better that you didn't put the extra 2.5 lbs of DME in the boil kettle. You think it's sweet now, add 20 gravity points to it. Don't be lazy on this one, bottle bombs always make a mess, and somebody could get hurt. At the very least, I suggest putting the bottles into a tupperware tote-box so when they do explode the mess will be contained and bystanders won't take any shrapnel. ;-)

PS, interesting screen name.

Click to expand...

OK - won't be lazy...dammit :cross:

I'll try the slow pour back into the primary and let it sit for a bit until I get a consistent FG.

And my screen name? long story...I've had it forever

^ Sorry, hope you didn't think I was calling you lazy, just wanted to give you a fair warning. Bottle bombs are nothing but bad. You lose your beer, your bottles, the favor of SWMBO, your hard work, and then..you have a big mess to clean up.

jbaysurfer said:

^ Sorry, hope you didn't think I was calling you lazy, just wanted to give you a fair warning. Bottle bombs are nothing but bad. You lose your beer, your bottles, the favor of SWMBO, your hard work, and then..you have a big mess to clean up.

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HA! no offense taken (I have a thick skin anyways)

After I get these volatile bottles emptied into a primary do I need to add yeast? or more sugar?

Or simply leave it the heck alone for a while?

thanks!

CHUM_ said:

HA! no offense taken (I have a thick skin anyways)

After I get these volatile bottles emptied into a primary do I need to add yeast? or more sugar?

Or simply leave it the heck alone for a while?

thanks!

Click to expand...

I'd leave it alone at about 70F if it were me. Avoiding sloshing/splashing/oxygenation is going to be paramount. Don't let the bottles glug (for lack of a better term) either while you're pouring them back in. Don't slosh the fermenter about while carrying it. Good luck.

CHUM_ said:

OG: 1.050
FG: 1.035
should be roughly 4% ABV?

Kept in primary for 6 days.
Transferred to secondary and dry hopped (beer got angry and bubbly)

Kept in secondary for 7 days and transferred to bottle using Corn sugar as primer (5 oz).
Predictions?

Click to expand...

As far as your ABV...

1.050 - 1.035 * 131.25 = 1.9/2.0%

I never move a beer from primary sooner than 2 weeks (3 weeks if I'm not clearing or dry hopping). So I think that may be where your issue is. You may not have let the yeast finish before you pulled it off. That is most likely why you had 'angry' beer in the secondary. There is still a lot of sugar in the liquid and now there is very little yeast to work on it.

Mouse

CA_Mouse said:

As far as your ABV...

1.050 - 1.035 * 131.25 = 1.9/2.0%

I never move a beer from primary sooner than 2 weeks (3 weeks if I'm not clearing or dry hopping). So I think that may be where your issue is. You may not have let the yeast finish before you pulled it off. That is most likely why you had 'angry' beer in the secondary. There is still a lot of sugar in the liquid and now there is very little yeast to work on it.

Mouse

Click to expand...

Thanks...I followed the 'instructions' as opposed to Hydrometer readings...WILL NOT MAKE THAT MISTAKE AGAIN (ugh)

I transferred all bottles back to bucket last nite as gently as I could. About half were 'foamers'....no gushers.

Do you think it needs a yeast bump?

I'd let it warm back up to 70 ish and give it a two or three days and then check your gravity, if you haven't had a change in gravity then pitch new yeast...

I was also thinking that you don't have to worry too much about oxygen right now. Your yeast still has a bit of work to do and the extra oxygen maybe necessary. That being said, don't intentionally introduce extra oxygen.

If you need to pitch new yeast it maybe fun to pitch a highly attenuative yeast like a saison. Wyeast 3711 French Saison is a good one it took my last saison down to 1.005 which would put your new "Farmhouse IPA" around 6%. If you go this way, try to ferment warm around 75-80F.

Just a though, maybe a fun experiment, what do you have to lose?

TwinsBrewers81 said:

I'd let it warm back up to 70 ish and give it a two or three days and then check your gravity, if you haven't had a change in gravity then pitch new yeast...

I was also thinking that you don't have to worry too much about oxygen right now. Your yeast still has a bit of work to do and the extra oxygen maybe necessary. That being said, don't intentionally introduce extra oxygen.

If you need to pitch new yeast it maybe fun to pitch a highly attenuative yeast like a saison. Wyeast 3711 French Saison is a good one it took my last saison down to 1.005 which would put your new "Farmhouse IPA" around 6%. If you go this way, try to ferment warm around 75-80F.

Just a though, maybe a fun experiment, what do you have to lose?

Click to expand...

I agree... let it warm up and see what happens in 3 or 4 days. check it and taste it. I would add a packet of S-05 directly to it without rehydrating it if there is no change after 4 days. Don't introduce more oxygen, but gently swirl it as you add the extra yeast.

Mouse

OK - let it sit at 68 degrees for a week.

I also added 2 packets of Champagne yeast based on advice from a local brewshop owner....it picked up noticeable fermenting for a couple days.

FG reading is now 1.010 as opposed to the 1.035 when I first bottled (OG was 1.050). I'll take another reading in 2 days.

I gotta say....I have done a lot to screw up this batch of beer but man-O-man does it really taste good warm and flat. I am totally surprised.

Thanks for all your advice!