Parts list for Mini-Fridge Conversion (w/ DIY Tower?)

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Looper

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I have a GE SMR04 that I am converting into a kegerator. I have already bent the freezer shelf down without any issues, relocated the temperature control, and removed the plastic shelving unit on the door to allow ample space for two 5gal cornys.

As of right now, all I have is the fridge and the kegs.

I am planning on putting the 5gal keg inside the back of the fridge on the shelf, and building a 3" PVC tower with 2 SS Perlick faucets on top of the fridge.

I made this parts list at beveragefactory because prices seemed the best there, but I am absolutely open to other suggestions.


double gauge CO2 regulator/splitter

5 lb CO2 Tank

Ball-lock Keg Couplers x2

Cheap Black Faucet Handles x2

SS Elbow Shank Assembly x2

5 Ft. Beer Line x2

5 ft Air Line x2

SS Perlicks x2

neoprene coupling washers

What size/how many hose clamps should I order?

Am I missing anything else??

Thanks!
 
Here is the current state of the fridge BTW:

48379d1329437875-kegerator-conversion-ge-smr04dasbcs-image-33657473.jpg
 
Buy the hose clamps at HD/Lowes, smallest size(1/4" I believe). Last time I checked it was a $1 or so for a pack of 10. You always end up needing more than you think and they are handy to have around.

You'll also need a drill and holesaw if you don't already have them. And a wrench that can be used to tighten that stainless coupling.
 
You might want to consider at least 10ft beer lines instead of 5. Some people have trouble with foaming using lines that short.

I don't think you'll need the neoprene washers if you're going with the tower shanks. They have barbs on the end so you won't be using beer nuts and washers. You might want some extra nylon washers to put between the regulator and CO2 tank. I didn't look to see if your regulator comes with it.

Will you have room for the CO2 tank in the fridge? If not you'll have to figure out how you want to run the lines and get any additional equipment you need.
 
You might want to consider at least 10ft beer lines instead of 5. Some people have trouble with foaming using lines that short.

I don't think you'll need the neoprene washers if you're going with the tower shanks. They have barbs on the end so you won't be using beer nuts and washers. You might want some extra nylon washers to put between the regulator and CO2 tank. I didn't look to see if your regulator comes with it.

Will you have room for the CO2 tank in the fridge? If not you'll have to figure out how you want to run the lines and get any additional equipment you need.

Why would a longer beer line decrease foaming? I'm not doubting you. but I just would have thought that the shorter the line, the less friction on the plastic (therefore less foam).
 
Why would a longer beer line decrease foaming? I'm not doubting you. but I just would have thought that the shorter the line, the less friction on the plastic (therefore less foam).

Some "light" reading on the subject:

http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-science-of-draft-beer/

http://***********/stories/techniqu...-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing

I got lucky and 5 feet gives me a perfect pour from all 4 of my kegs at 12 psi because that is a lot of math I'd rather not do.
 
Yeah, check out the links from postal_penguin. The idea is that the faster the beer comes out, the more foam you'll have. The longer your line, the more resistance and slower it will come out.

Some people are just fine with 5 feet of line and you might be. Some people go have to use 10+ feet for a good pour. I started with 10 feet on my lines and got a good pour so left it.

I was only suggesting longer lines because you can always cut the line and go shorter but if you start short, you can't go longer.
 
Definitely, thanks for that guys.

What about the gas line? Does length of the line have any factor on the Pressure?

Also, does this regulator look OK? I am fine with keeping the beers at the same pressure. My only concern is there isn't a mention of it including a "check valve" or something along those lines, to prevent 1 batch of beer from contaminating future batches via CO2.

Alright, I guess I'll be ordering all this up today. Thanks guys!
 
Gas line length doesn't matter. Get whatever you need to make it work. IMO, check valves are a must but it's up to you. I use these cheapies from US Plastics: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369&catid=489&clickid=searchresults

Just put them inline using worm clamps. You can get shutoff valves with check valves but that's a little more expensive.

Check valves may not seem worth it...until your regulator gets filled with beer. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/beer-backup-into-regulator-90940/
 
Anybody have any idea what kind of material I will have to drill through to install the tower?

Trying to determine what kind of drill bit I need. Thanks
 
Anybody have any idea what kind of material I will have to drill through to install the tower?

Trying to determine what kind of drill bit I need. Thanks

The outside of the fridge is typically steel, inside is some type of insulation and plastic. I got a bi-metal hole saw and it cut right through. Just look on the package and make sure it says its OK to cut metal.
 
postal_penguin said:
The outside of the fridge is typically steel, inside is some type of insulation and plastic. I got a bi-metal hole saw and it cut right through. Just look on the package and make sure it says its OK to cut metal.

You're the man. I just wasn't sure if I needed a carbon bit to get through any type of metal.

That said, is there any special technique I need to use when drilling with a hole bit? Scoring the hole or something? I've never done it before, and want it to be as clean as possible. Thanks a lot!!
 
No special technique really. Just make sure to have the drill as vertical as possible and to press down smoothly. It should take only a few seconds to cut through and leaves a fairly clean hole. However, for my 3" diameter tower I only drilled a 2.25" hole.
 
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