Cost of Kegging?

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rudebrews

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Thinking long and hard about making the step up to kegging. Of course it is more convenient, but is it more cost effective? Worried about the cost of CO2 in particular. Can anyone tell me

A. How much does it cost to fill up a standard size CO2 tank?

B. How many five gallon batches can you typically carb and dispense per said fillup?

I'm sure it varies based on where you fill and what beers you're brewing. But a ballpark answer would be much appreciated.

Cheers!
 
Kegging has been the most expensive part of the hobby for me. The corny kegs, the regulator, the tank, the chest freezer, the tubes, the faucets and shanks and tail pieces...it just goes on and on and on.

Yeah, there's just no way at all you're going to save money over bottling. Unless you factor in time saved as money.

A. It costs me about $30 to fill up a 20lb tank.

B. I don't know, but I haven't had my system for very long.
 
A) Haven't had to do it yet, so really cheap
B) You should get 5-8 kegs out of a 5# cylinder if you force carbonate. If you prime with sugar for carbing and only use CO2 for dispensing, you can easily double the number kegs before a fill up is needed.
 
I pay about $12 for a 5 lb CO2 refill and get about tens kegs out of it. It is the best addition to my brewing I have made. If i still had to bottle, I probably would not brew as much.
 
As the first reply stated, the cost of the equipment adds up quick. After that, CO2 is pretty cheap. I pay about $15 for a 5# refill, but a 10# refill is only a dollar or two more and I'm sure it's probably not much for for a #20. So if you're concerned about the cost of CO2, buy a bigger tank. I fill my 5# tank after about 6 kegs or so - which usually is a couple times a year. I could probably do a fill a year on a 10 or 20lb tank.

With a family and busy job, I can't put a price on my time. Spending 10 minutes to transfer beer from a carboy into a keg is much better than an hour or more bottling.
 
A. I pay $15 to swap 5 lbs. tanks at the LHBS.

B. I carbed 7 5 gallon kegs and dispensed a total of 8 kegs with it (I refilled a cornie at a micro brewery). I also used the tank for purging carboys during transfer, and filling some bottles from these kegs.
 
Kegging is pricey to get started, but worth it.

For me, it's $20 for a 5lb fill-up and $28 for a 20lb fill-up. Haven't exhausted either tank yet, so can't comment on how long they last (hope the 20lb lasts a while).
 
I use 20 oz paintball bottles from Dicks Sporting Goods. 3.99 a fill and every 5th fill is free if you reuse the box it came in. So its $2.55/lb. Each tank lasts me about 3-4 force carbonated kegs on average. I also use the tanks for misc. tasks like purging bottles/carboys/kegs.

I have three tanks and try to keep one or two filled at all times on reserve.
 
Thanks for all the solid info! these boards are by far the best way to get down to the nitty gritty in a hurry. Looks like if I run a 20# tank the cost of carbing is pretty negligible. Score one for legging.
 
I do think that everything in this hobby costs more than you initially expect or plan unless you're extremely resourceful and frugal. Just something to keep in mind if your on a tight budget.
 
co2 is the cheapest thing in kegging. Learn to naturally carb all your kegs and save even more.
 
If you get a basic setup, it's not that bad. It's the additional cornies, faucets, and other stuff that adds up. I'm about to buy a keg setup, and until I'm in a position to build a keezer or find a decent kegerator on CL, I'll just use the tap that comes with it.
 
I managed to get into kegging fairly cheaply - picked up a full 5lb, single gauge reg, three way manifold, two cornies and associated lines/connectors for $150 - howevere to get to a third keg it cost me another $65+/- (extra keg gas in/out and picnic taps).
So I'm at $215 for q full three keg setup with picnic taps.
If you are in a rush, it will cost more, if you can bide your time and look for used equipment you can save some money - case and point, my friend picked up a setup for two keg distribution with three extra kegs for $75, because he worked with someone who was gettng out of the hobby.
From my researc. CO2 fills are >$20 if you have an aluminum tank make sure they fill and don't just swap you to a steel tank.
 
+1 on the used equipment; I trolled Craigslist (setup RSS feed in outlook) for my keg setup. Waited months for it to pop up but was able to act fast and got #20 tank, 4 taps, 6 kegs, lines and such and some AG supplies for $200 (new around $800 can.). Next month got a free freezer.

With bottling 60 bottles, which are pretty much free, capper and some caps, there's not much comparison bottling is much cheaper, but Kegs are way faster saving you time.
 
It's setting up a "good" kegging/tapping system that is expensive.

I've been pricing out a 3-tap keezer set up with an extra gauge to force carb 2 more kegs. It's the equipment, not the CO2 that will kill you.

New equipment is mind-blowingly expensive. From my internet research on merchants of new equipment, NOT including the cost of the chest freezer itself, or the time/material to build a collar and fill-out the bottom of the chest freezer, just buying the dispensing equipment - if purchased new - will run around $600 for lines, 3 Perlick faucets, S/S shanks, etc. (basicaly top of the line stuff). Another $300 for Corney kegs and fittings. About $60-150 for a new aluminum CO2 tank, depending on size (5#, about $60, 20#, about $130). Figure a used chest freezer for around $100 and another $100 in lumber, stain, etc. - a "top of the line" 3-tap system will run around $1,100.

Ways to make the system cheaper:

1. Buy used equipment - usually saving you at least 50%-80% off the price, but might not be pretty. It also might not be in great condition, but so what - you can replace any parts with new stuff, if you need to, and still be way below the above numbers.

2. Buy "non-brand name" equipment - instead of 3 Perlick 525SS faucets at $60 each if you include S/S shanks, nuts and nipples (sounds dirty, eh?) you could buy cheaper chrome-plated faucets for $15-18, or even buy pic-nic tappers for just a couple bucks. Granted, Perlick faucets might be a bad example, because they are probably worth the money (they'll last a lifetime if taken care of and require minimal maintenance - and even used, they aren't very cheap).

To answer the original question, though - it sounds silly, but check and see if there is a FIRE EXTINGUISHER INSPECTION company in your area. Many businesses are required by local ordinance to refill their fire extinguishers every year and have them inspected. This has given rise to exguisher inspection companies that recharge fire extinguishers and certify their functionality. And guess what fire extinguishers are filled with (most often)? That's right. And most of them have their own CO2 refill station on-premises. I went to my local extinguisher company, they refilled a 20# tank for $20.

The local Airgas company wanted to charge $32 to exchange the tank.
 
I can tell you that I got about 8 or 9 kegs out of my 5# tank, and when that ran out I upgraded to a 20# tank and that only cost me 32 dollars and that is with a refill and a upgrade charge.
 
Anyone have experience renting tanks?

Renting is not a bad way to go. From what I've read, renting tanks is the cheapest way to go unless you're going to drink LOTS of beer. The killer price for owning isn't just buying the tank. Every five years, you have to have the tank pressure tested to insure that it will still hold pressure. Refill companies will not refill your privately owned tank unless it has had a pressure test within the last five years from date you are asking them to fill it. According to one place I went to (Cigna) - the test costs $20-50 plus shipping to the testing facility and back (steel obviously costs more in these cases). And if the tank fails the test, you're out of a tank. Do not pass Go, Do not collect $200. Return to square one.

If you rent, the costs of testing are figured into the refill price (plus some profit for the rental company). That's why, for example, an exchange costs $32 (as one guy posted above), but a refill only costs about $20.

The real question about buying a tank or renting one is a question of volume - will you be going through enough beer fast enough to justify the up-front costs of buying a tank (and paying for testing every five years)? If you're only going to go through one 20# tank a year there's really no need to buy a tank - you'll save money by renting with no downside.

If you're going to go through 2, 3, or 4 20# tanks a year, you need to start doing some math and see which one is better, cost-wise. Remember that in rentals, you would get your deposit back. Buying a tank, you could probably also recoup most of the cost of the tank if/when you sold it.

Also - don't forget what size keezer/draft system you're going to use - do you throw multiple big parties every year? The guy at the refill station told me that a single 20# tank can serve about 15 kegs - and he was talking about half-barrels (15.5 gallons). I told him that I would be carbonating the beer as well as serving it, but it's worth considering that by that same logic, a 20# tank should be able to serve around 45 full Corneys before it needs a refill (assuming no forced carbonation). On my current brewing schedule, it will take me a year to brew that much beer, let alone serve it. So, since I split my beer with a friend, and considering I'll only be carbonating half my beer with a tank, I will likely be going through only one (possibly two) 20# tanks a year.

The other consideration, of course, is your own personality and your available resources. I am a completist and like to own things - I also had the money laying around. So even though I KNEW it was not the most economical option for me, I purchased a tank anyway.

Go figure.

PS -- Re-reading my post, I realized that you might have thought that there is some type of periodic rental payment on tanks - like a monthly fee. This is not the case where I live (Midwestern United States). Here, when you "rent" a tank, you buy a full tank from a local gas supplier. If you don't have an empty tank to give them in exchange, then they charge you a rental deposit. If you bring in an empty tank and don't want to exchange, they will refund your rental deposit - but be beware. Some businesses do not refund deposits without original receipts, and others don't refund them at all. Other than that, there's NO monthly fee - you only pay again when you exchange again, and the second time, you won't have to pay a deposit, because you're bringing an empty tank in. It's like purchasing a keg of beer from a local liquor store.
 
@chrismontgomeryil

Thank you! This information was very helpful! I'll go down to my local Arcet and see about renting. Thanks again!
 
Anyone have experience renting tanks?

I do - but I suspect my experience is somewhat unique...

I "rent" a 15lb cylinder from a local beverage supply warehouse. I use "rent" in quotes because I'm still not certain I understand their model. I paid them a $50 deposit, then $14 to fill a tank. When I eventually go through that tank, I'll bring it back, and either have it refilled or swap it for another full tank, for another $14. When I eventually decide I'm done with my cylinder, I presumably bring it back, get my $50 deposit back, and we're done.

I do not understand how they make money on this or consider it a rental, since I can bring in my own 15lb cylinder and have it filled for that same $14. It's possibly I misunderstood and the $50 deposit is not refundable. But hey - $50 up front for a 15lb cylinder I never have to pay to test? I'll take that.

But to the OP, I'll definitely support several folks' opinions here that the gas is not the big expense here. In my case, I was upgrading my kitchen fridge at the time, so I just converted my old one. Truth be told, you can find fridges for free (or very near it) on Craigslist all the time if you're not super picky. But then you have your gas distribution you have to buy (I lucked out and got most of my gas-side equipment for free from the afformentioned beverage supply folks), your beer-side equipment (the line - go with longer lines!!! - taps, shanks, etc) and your kegs.

My upfront investment was probably close to $500 to get my initial 4-tap kegging setup put together, and that was considering the fridge, gas line, 4-way manifold, and all QD's as free!

Since then, I've filled a 5lb cylinder twice for $9 a pop (I've only used it once since the second refill), and the 15lb once for $14, and I've used roughly 73 cents' worth of beer line cleaner and oxy clean free for cleanup. I've also not noticed a significant difference in my electricity bill with the extra fridge running in the house.
 
I bought a tank, and have it filled at a dry ice company for $10. My local homebrew store does exchanges for $10 (5 lb.), so I'll use them before the tank needs recertification. You need to call around. Welding shops, paintball shops, dry ice company, beverage supply companies, homebrew shops, fire extinguisher companies, etc. sell CO2. Most do exchange; some fill.

But.... the cost of CO2 pales in comparison to the build. If you amortize cost of the kegerator/keezer over a couple of years, it's still ALOT OF MONEY per beer. Way more than CO2. The cost of CO2, as others have said, is negligible. $10/30 gallons = $10/240 pints = 4 cents per pint or 3 cents per bottle.

Now I doubt many are saying "I wish I was bottling again" or "I wish I hadn't spent the money on this kegerator". We love our kegerators/keezers.
 
$10 for me at the LHBS. Intial setup (3 cornie kegs, all connections, lines, dual regulator and 5lb C02 tank) was $200.

Outside of that setup unless you buy/build a kegerator/keezer you're pretty much done. I'm dropping $600 into a 20.4 cuft keezer this weekend. Just order all the insides and I'll be dropping by local hardware store for lumber/stain/insulation for a collar build tomorrow.
 
A. I haven't had to do it yet

B. I have carbed and served 3 kegs so far and have a total of 4 on taps now
 
It's setting up a "good" kegging/tapping system that is expensive.

I've been pricing out a 3-tap keezer set up with an extra gauge to force carb 2 more kegs. It's the equipment, not the CO2 that will kill you.

New equipment is mind-blowingly expensive. From my internet research on merchants of new equipment, NOT including the cost of the chest freezer itself, or the time/material to build a collar and fill-out the bottom of the chest freezer, just buying the dispensing equipment - if purchased new - will run around $600 for lines, 3 Perlick faucets, S/S shanks, etc. (basicaly top of the line stuff). Another $300 for Corney kegs and fittings. About $60-150 for a new aluminum CO2 tank, depending on size (5#, about $60, 20#, about $130). Figure a used chest freezer for around $100 and another $100 in lumber, stain, etc. - a "top of the line" 3-tap system will run around $1,100.
Ways to make the system cheaper:

1. Buy used equipment - usually saving you at least 50%-80% off the price, but might not be pretty. It also might not be in great condition, but so what - you can replace any parts with new stuff, if you need to, and still be way below the above numbers.

2. Buy "non-brand name" equipment - instead of 3 Perlick 525SS faucets at $60 each if you include S/S shanks, nuts and nipples (sounds dirty, eh?) you could buy cheaper chrome-plated faucets for $15-18, or even buy pic-nic tappers for just a couple bucks. Granted, Perlick faucets might be a bad example, because they are probably worth the money (they'll last a lifetime if taken care of and require minimal maintenance - and even used, they aren't very cheap).

To answer the original question, though - it sounds silly, but check and see if there is a FIRE EXTINGUISHER INSPECTION company in your area. Many businesses are required by local ordinance to refill their fire extinguishers every year and have them inspected. This has given rise to exguisher inspection companies that recharge fire extinguishers and certify their functionality. And guess what fire extinguishers are filled with (most often)? That's right. And most of them have their own CO2 refill station on-premises. I went to my local extinguisher company, they refilled a 20# tank for $20.

The local Airgas company wanted to charge $32 to exchange the tank.

This has been my experience as well. My next step is to build a keezer. I've been researching the crap out of it and have my parts list ready to go. Just need the funds to get it all together. I've priced mine at about $12-1300. This is for a 3-tap with a 4 gauge regulator and new freezer.
 
Thinking long and hard about making the step up to kegging. Of course it is more convenient, but is it more cost effective? ......

No, in my experience, kegging is definitely more expensive than bottling. The cheapest by far is bottling into Grolsch flip-top bottles, where only the rubber gaskets need to be replaced every few years or so. Prime with table sugar if you're real cheap.

I keg for convenience now, but when I was in uber-cheap mode when first starting out, I exclusively used flip-tops.

Of course, I it depends on what you can get a deal on. I already had 200+ brown Grolsch bottles...... if you had to buy them new, the cost difference between flip-tops and kegging would be less.
 
Thinking long and hard about making the step up to kegging. Of course it is more convenient, but is it more cost effective? Worried about the cost of CO2 in particular. Can anyone tell me

A. How much does it cost to fill up a standard size CO2 tank?

B. How many five gallon batches can you typically carb and dispense per said fillup?

I'm sure it varies based on where you fill and what beers you're brewing. But a ballpark answer would be much appreciated.

Cheers!



CO2 is cheap overall. I don't know (or care) if its cheaper than priming sugar, but it is sure a heck of a lot easier, cleaner, quicker than bottling!
You'd be amazed at how long even a 10lbs CO2 tank will last.

IMO, kegging is well worth any additional costs compared to bottling all the time. I still bottle from the keg (with a blichmann beer gun) for competitions, but kegging is definitely the way to go if you're sick of cleaning bottles:mug:
 
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