Heat stick questions (im sure im gonna get flamed for this but im confused)

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xjncoguyx

xjncoguyx

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Ok, got just a few questions about this. I've read through numerous DIY threads and i think im probably over thinking this. Ok, first im working with a 15A GFI, and i was going to build a 1500W heat stick to supplement my electric stove. Im assuming to use 14/3 wire on this application? Also i've noticed people doing calculations using 240v to get the actual wattage of the elements. If im buying a 110v 1500W element, is it going to be 1500W or do i need something bigger to achieve 1500W? Im very good at builiding things, im just having a hard time understanding all the calculations to get the actual wattage, as well as what type of wire is needed to run said heat stick. :(
 
This should be posted in the electrical forum. You'll probably get more answers there. a 2000w element will get you 1389 watts. For this you would need a 20 amp circuit as it will be pulling 16.5 amps. 14g will be enough for 1500w. For 2000 i used 12/2 SJ cord.
 
xjncoguyx said:
im working with a 15A GFI, and i was going to build a 1500W heat stick to supplement my electric stove. Im assuming to use 14/3 wire on this application?
Click to expand...

I would check the amp rating of the cord. The insulation used on the wires and length of the cord have an impact on the amp rating. For in-wall house wiring, 14 gauge will handle 15A, but I've seen many 14/3 extension cords that claim only 13A rating.

Your 1500W element is going to draw about 13A, so... it should handle it, but you can always go bigger on the wire gauge to be safer.

xjncoguyx said:
Also i've noticed people doing calculations using 240v to get the actual wattage of the elements. If im buying a 110v 1500W element, is it going to be 1500W or do i need something bigger to achieve 1500W? Im very good at builiding things, im just having a hard time understanding all the calculations to get the actual wattage, as well as what type of wire is needed to run said heat stick. :(
Click to expand...

If your element is sold as a 1500W/110V element, then it is going to produce 1500W when run with 110V.

Elements sold as <whatever>Watt/240V will produce <whatever> watts at 240V, but can also be run on 120V and will produce only 1/4 of the watts. So, 5500W/240V element running on 120V is effectively a 1375W element.

But... never run an element on 240V if it was meant/sold as one for 120V. It will produce 4 times the advertised watts and will almost certainly burn up.
 
Walker said:
I would check the amp rating of the cord. The insulation used on the wires and length of the cord have an impact on the amp rating. For in-wall house wiring, 14 gauge will handle 15A, but I've seen many 14/3 extension cords that claim only 13A rating.

Your 1500W element is going to draw about 13A, so... it should handle it, but you can always go bigger on the wire gauge to be safer.



If your element is sold as a 1500W/110V element, then it is going to produce 1500W when run with 110V.

Elements sold as <whatever>Watt/240V will produce <whatever> watts at 240V, but can also be run on 120V and will produce only 1/4 of the watts. So, 5500W/240V element running on 120V is effectively a 1375W element.

But... never run an element on 240V if it was meant/sold as one for 120V. It will produce 4 times the advertised watts and will almost certainly burn up.
Click to expand...
Dude, you are awesome :rockin: You just cleared up everything for me in one post.
 
If it's an element meant to run on 110v, then that's the wattage you'll get at 110v.

If you're needing to figure out your amps, here's a handy website with all the calculations you need:
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp

So, you'll be pulling 13.64 amps which is awfully close to your 15amp circuit...

EDIT: Man I'm a slow poster...
 
Walker said:
Huh? What do you mean a 2000W element will get you 1389W?
Click to expand...

That is the number that the electric brewing spreadsheet is giving me. I guess what they assume is that there is resistance in the current draw therefore reducing the usable amount of wattage from the element. When I type in a 2000w element it gives me that number. Everyone swears by that spreadsheet so I figured I'd get my numbers from it for this post.

Looking at it again. The spreadsheet had 100w in it as the actual voltage. Which IMO would be wrong (unless of course there is some kind of attenuation going on. My bad.
 
CoalCracker...

I'm with you now. If the element is sold as 2000W/120V and you run it on 100V, then you will indeed get 1389W of effective power from the element.
 
xjncoguyx said:
Aren't most outlets 120v?
Click to expand...

DeafSmith said:
If you're running on 100 volts, you're either in Japan, or you're having one hell of a brownout.
Click to expand...

US voltage on a standard outlet should be 120V, but it is not uncommon at all for the actual voltage you get at your house to be lower than this. I suppose it depends on how far away from the nearest transformer you are or something.

110V is common to see. 100V is probably extremely uncommon.

The "240V" outlet in my garage actually measures 249V when I check it with my meter, and (likewise) by "120V" outlets show 125V. I suspect my meter is a bit janky.
 
So if im getting 120v from my outlet then would the wattage and amperage also be increased?
 

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