Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion
- Thread starter FlyGuy
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
I noticed both sizes at my local HD in the front on the way out the doors. I have two of these 10-gal Coleman Beverage Coolers. Round may be better, but these work great and are very thick. They also have markings inside for both gallons and liters.
NorCalAngler
Well-Known Member
Finally got mine straightened out. The 1.5in nipple was too big for the cooler so I went down to the 785, which is labeled "close." I took that to mean it's the smallest nipple they can make and still have the threads on each side. Then I tested and had a leak so I took the inside washer and bent it with a hammer to better fit the shape of the cooler. No leaks!
ejearn
Active Member
I just bought a box of 5/8" SS fender washers (had to buy wholesale). If anybody needs one, just send me a message and I am more than happy to send you one via snail mail.
BrewNoob2010
Member
I am trying to put one of these together and am having fits finding the appropriate vinyl tubing and o-ring.
Can't seem to find a heat resistant o-ring. Folks at HD/Lowe's think that a standard o-ring is meant to withstand temps up to ~130F.
Is the standard vinyl tubing in the plumbing isle (listed not for ice makers) the "food grade" tubing that has been referred to here?
The specs state that this tubing is rated for temps up to 175F.
TIA for any input.
Can't seem to find a heat resistant o-ring. Folks at HD/Lowe's think that a standard o-ring is meant to withstand temps up to ~130F.
Is the standard vinyl tubing in the plumbing isle (listed not for ice makers) the "food grade" tubing that has been referred to here?
The specs state that this tubing is rated for temps up to 175F.
TIA for any input.
OP
OP
FlyGuy
Well-Known Member
You don't need vinyl tubing. That was an old design that caused a lot of problems for some people and I no longer recommend using it.
Regarding the o-ring, any o-ring that can be used on a hot water faucet will do. The ones I bought said high-temp rated on them, but I suspect that most of the o-rings in the plumbing section can be used (just ask if it is 'hot water' safe, and if it is, you are golden).
Cheers!
BrewNoob2010
Member
Thanks for the info, FlyGuy, and thanks for coming up with this design and providing so much support to those of us trying to put together an AG rig.
I saw something about this type of setup having problems if used with an immersion chiller as the cold break will clog the braided line, has anyone had a problem with that?
I saw something about this type of setup having problems if used with an immersion chiller as the cold break will clog the braided line, has anyone had a problem with that?
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
You're getting your steps mixed up. Your immersion chiller shouldn't be put into the mash. I could see the cold break clogging up a plate chiller, if that's what you meant.
So for the outside washers - would using say zinc plated ones be an issue?
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
Zinc is ok on the outside.
Eddiebosox
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to do this with a ten gallon Igloo and its not quite working. the nipple fits just so so theres no room for a rubber gasket, and since the nipple has the smooth center area with no threading I cant tighten up from both ends for a clean seal. I bought some DAT silicone sealant and will hopefully get it to work with that.
Another option could be to buy a lot of flat washers for the outside of the cooler to force a tight fit.
Another option could be to buy a lot of flat washers for the outside of the cooler to force a tight fit.
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
That's exactley what I did.
Eddiebosox
Well-Known Member
another qustion is-- how important is it that the nut I am using inside be stainless? Im pretty sure it is but not 100%. I figured i'd do a few batches and look for any color change or corrosion/rusting etc.
DarkUncle
Well-Known Member
Cripes, 126 pages! Well, I am going to start going through this but could I ask a simple question, which I'm sure must have been addressed somewhere in here, is there any concerns using such a narrow and deep cooler rather than a more traditional rectangular shaped one? Just seems the grain bed would be quite thick and hard to mix as compared with a regular rectangular cooler.
I've never done all grain yet but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I give it a shot. I'm leaning toward doing a partial mash first.
Thanks
I've never done all grain yet but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I give it a shot. I'm leaning toward doing a partial mash first.
Thanks
ejearn
Active Member
Yep, just buy lots of flat washers for the outside and crank er' tight! :fro:
ejearn
Active Member
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
If you chose to not use a SS nut or washer on the inside, make sure that it is lead free. For the obvioius reason that lead is poisionous to humans, it is also poisionous to yeast.
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
Either cooler works. It all depends on what is available to you. Lots of brewers use the rectangular cooler with no ill effects. Just about the only draw back that I can see for using the rectangular cooler is needing more material to make a manifold once you upgrade, and you will, from the braided hose to a slotted manifold.
cheez
Well-Known Member
Not sure if this has been mentioned already but I used a silicone baby bottle nipple for the "o-ring" on the inside of a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. Simply cut off the nipple part about a 1/4" or so above the flange part. The remaining portion of the nipple fits perfectly into the hole from the inside while the flange fits perfectly against the inside wall of the cooler behind the SS nut. My wife recommended it while I had the cooler sitting on the living room floor trying to figure out how to get the stupid o-ring that came with the kit to work. Sometimes non-beer drinkers have great ideas 
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
cheez
Well-Known Member
That is what I would like to use. So no one here has attached a thermometer like people have on metal HLT?
I don't really trust electronic thermometers. Have you tried this guys method? Seems a little sketchy with the bung and what not.
cheez
Well-Known Member
No, I haven't tried it. Here's another kit http://morebeer.com/view_product/17511/102307/6%22_Thermometer_Kit_for_Rubbermaid_Coolers but I haven't tried this one either. It would be handy to have but I am always afraid of drilling more holes into the cooler.
Check out this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rubbermaid-cooler-thermometer-171517/
klyph
Well-Known Member
http://www.mcmaster.com/#36895k831
Or if you like paying double at morebeer
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17506/102308/Bulkhead_for_Coolers_with_1_2"_FPT_x_1_2"_FPT
Or if you like paying double at morebeer
http://morebeer.com/view_product/17506/102308/Bulkhead_for_Coolers_with_1_2"_FPT_x_1_2"_FPT
You could add one of these to your 1/2" valve. Add a short nipple to your valve and then screw this on:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-168/in-dsh-line-thermometer-temperature-monitor/Detail
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-168/in-dsh-line-thermometer-temperature-monitor/Detail
A little on the pricey side but I guess it could work.
That looks nice.
Wonder how accurate it would be. Plus where does the probe come out? Looks funky in the picture.
So that fitting would go before the valve? Cooler wall > this thermometer thing > ball valve (and obvously any fittings in between)?
I think you could use it before the valve or after the valve depending on your purpose. I think the only fitting you would need is an additional nipple. I recirculate with a pump and I use a PID for temp control in my beverage cooler. I'm thinking about putting one between the cooler and the valve. The valve would be pointing downward or sideways. If pointed down, it would help with gravity flow systems.
cheez
Well-Known Member
The only thing I don't like about the side mounted thermometer option is the fact that it would stick out inside the cooler and make it difficult to stir the mash. I don't want to worry about bumping into it. I could see how a side mounted thermo would be fine for a rubbermaid HLT...
I think I'm going to buy a 12" thermo and stick it through the lid. I'm not sure if this would extend down far enough for a 5 gallon batch but the only 5 gallon batches I do are high gravity with a ton of grain.
I think I'm going to buy a 12" thermo and stick it through the lid. I'm not sure if this would extend down far enough for a 5 gallon batch but the only 5 gallon batches I do are high gravity with a ton of grain.
johnodon
Well-Known Member
It doesn't say that this is a sale price, but HD has this cooler for $39.96:
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Everywhere else I have looked, this thing is $50+.
John
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Everywhere else I have looked, this thing is $50+.
John
DrawTap88
Well-Known Member
That's the same reason that I never looked into doing one on mine.
It may just reach the top of the mash on a 5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon HD cooler. With my nine inch temp probe
rockin I'm able to get readings from various depths of the mash. When I'm not using the probe I just stick it in the handle of the cooler, so that it is right there anytime I need it.
They always have that cooler for that price. I was eyeing one for a long time hoping it would drop in price from $40. It was about 6 months before I decided to get serious about AG and when I went looking for one, I naturally thought HD was a little high in price. Low and behold, I found that they indeed have the cheapest price for that cooler of almost every place out there and you don't have to pay shipping on it either.
DarkUncle
Well-Known Member
You just have to be lucky enough to find one at Home Depot as they don't sell them online. Checked one so far and they were out of them. Seeing as how it's kind of out of cooler season right now, I don't anticipate them getting them in again until maybe spring.
I'm going to try 2 more near my home.
*Edit*
What about this one for those that can't find a cooler locally:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=14550424#ShortReviewTitleBar
97 cents shipping. Can't beat that!
I'm going to try 2 more near my home.
*Edit*
What about this one for those that can't find a cooler locally:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=14550424#ShortReviewTitleBar
97 cents shipping. Can't beat that!
Looking to start getting into AG brewing and this thread has crossed my MLT building path quite a few times.
However, 128 pages of this and I've only had the time to go through the first 50 or so of them in the past 2 weeks.
Being that this thread started back in '07, I'm sure a lot of good ideas and changes have been made.
Would anyone be so kind as to summarize? or point me to a place where it is summarized in here someplace?
However, 128 pages of this and I've only had the time to go through the first 50 or so of them in the past 2 weeks.
Being that this thread started back in '07, I'm sure a lot of good ideas and changes have been made.
Would anyone be so kind as to summarize? or point me to a place where it is summarized in here someplace?
When I made mine, I simply followed the instructions provided on the first several pages. Get the parts and slap it together. Was very easy and I have made many batches since. The only change I made was to use a false bottom instead of a bazooka tube. Just a matter of preference.
Have fun!
Eddiebosox
Well-Known Member
Same here. I had an Igloo cooler so I didn’t get a good seal. I had to buy more washers and eventually use food grade sealant to finish the job, but the first few pages pretty much show you how.
Just follow the initial post... If you have issues with the SS tube, your LHBS might have a bazooka screen option that you can just screw on.
SS fender washers are really hard to find as well. One of the users on here was generous enough to mail me one.
Similar threads
