bottling tips using only primary

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Specs

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I have just learned that it is very acceptable to use only a primary and it is not necessary to rack into a secondary for further fermentation.
What I would like to fully ferment in the primary. When fermentation is complete I would rack into a different container in order to mix in priming sugars before I bottle.

I am interested in switching over but would like to know if anyone has tips on bottling without stirring up too much sediment. I find even trying to open my 30litre primary lid i stir up a lot of sediment. And also when I am bringing it from the floor to the kitchen table for racking.
Also when using only a primary, is the 6.5gallon plastic pale with drilled lid the best to use?
 
I would still use the bottling bucket - I don't think it is possible to add your priming sugar to your fermenter without disturbing the sediment

two things I would recommend that you can try

1: Cold crash your carboy the night before you rack into the bottling bucket

2: There are liquid yeasts that will form a more compact sedimentary layer than others

Just some ideas
 
No need to stir in priming sugar if you use carbonation tabs to each bottle. Slightly expensive but the only viable approach I see for you if you want to bottle straight from the primary.
 
just add two teaspoons of white sugar to a 700ml bottle before adding your fermented wort, easy as that :D
 
Put your primary up on the table a couple hours before you actually transfer it to the bottling bucket. This will give it some time for the yeast you stirred up moving it to settle back down.
 
Don't......

The problem with bottling from a primary or secondary instead of using a bottling bucket, is that since you have patiently gone and let your beer settle and clear, in order to mix the priming solution and beer effectively, you would have to stir it in the carboy..which would a) kick up all that nice sediment you have patiently let fall, b) possibly oxydize the beer.

Go to a hardware store and get a translucent or white bucket...but look for one where the 5 gallon mark falls way below the top of the bucket. Usually it will say 5 gallons at 3rd band from the top. (oh get the lid too....I totally regret not getting it when I did.)

Then get a spigot and make a dedicated bottling bucket. It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Mine is the translucent Leaktite brand 5 gallon container with the gallon and liter markings from Homedepot.

61GTWpzk9ML._SL500_AA280_.gif


Here's a pic of mine from my bottling thread.

bottling_wand.jpg


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/revvys-tips-bottler-first-time-otherwise-94812/

And then ONLY use your bottling bucket AS A BOTTLING BUCKET, and you won't have to have this issue again.

If you can't find a spigot today, then rack to the bucket and fill the bottles with the autosiphon, if that's what you wanna do, but you really should move it to a vessel where you can evenly integrate the priming solution and the beer.

But if you try driectly from the primary you will have unsatisfactory results and possibly even cardboard tasting beer.

:mug:
 
Slightly off topic, but it's worth mentioning

If you have to move your primary/secondary before bottling do it at least a day before you bottle. This will let the stuff you kick up settle before you rack into the bottling bucket. I normally move my primary to the kitchen the night before I bottle and place it on the counter. I then rack and bottle when I get home the next day. I've always been happy with the results. I generally do a 2-3 week primary.
 
Specs said:
I have just learned that it is very acceptable to use only a primary and it is not necessary to rack into a secondary for further fermentation.
What I would like to fully ferment in the primary. When fermentation is complete I would rack into a different container in order to mix in priming sugars before I bottle.

I am interested in switching over but would like to know if anyone has tips on bottling without stirring up too much sediment. I find even trying to open my 30litre primary lid i stir up a lot of sediment. And also when I am bringing it from the floor to the kitchen table for racking.
Also when using only a primary, is the 6.5gallon plastic pale with drilled lid the best to use?
Click to expand...

If you can, get the primary down to ~35 F before transferring, that will help the yeast settle tightly to the bottom. Then just be careful as you rack to the bottling bucket. It is a bit easier to do in a carboy since you can see where the tip of your auto-siphon is (another tool I recommend having). You can use the 6.5 gallon bucket with the drilled lid though.

The best bet for mixing in the priming sugar is to boil it in a cup of water then put it in your bottling bucket, siphon on to that. You can set the siphon hose such that it creates a swirl in the bucket as it fills and this will mix the priming sugar in well.
 
How do you guys feel about cold crashing the night before moving to bottle? I primary in a chest freezer and I really don't want to transfer in my garage for fear of infection, so moving is unavoidable.

Should I crash cool tonight, move it in the morning and siphon at night? Obviously the temperature would raise and some of the protien/yeast/whatever would come back into solution, so it wouldn't be perfect but might be a happy medium.
 
BrewHog09 said:
How do you guys feel about cold crashing the night before moving to bottle? I primary in a chest freezer and I really don't want to transfer in my garage for fear of infection, so moving is unavoidable.

Should I crash cool tonight, move it in the morning and siphon at night? Obviously the temperature would raise and some of the protien/yeast/whatever would come back into solution, so it wouldn't be perfect but might be a happy medium.
Click to expand...

You know, I've never ever needed to cold crash any of my beers prior to bottling, nor have I even need to let my beer settle for more than 20 minutes or so after moving it on to the table. If you use moss or a finnings in the boil, utilize either a long primary, or secondary, let the beer bottle condition for a decent length of time in the bottle, and let them chill for a week in the fridge when they are carbed and done condition, you will find they are pretty crystal clear without needing to do that extra step......at least mine have, and judging by comments on beers I've entered in contests, the judges have commented on the clarity of mine...even calling one of them "jewel like" last year....
 
Revvy said:
You know, I've never ever needed to cold crash any of my beers prior to bottling, nor have I even need to let my beer settle for more than 20 minutes or so after moving it on to the table.
Click to expand...

+1. I let it sit for 20minutes or so after moving it and the sediment that has kicked up from the move is already settled back down.
 
I made this mistake because I broke a carboy and had to use my bottling bucket as a fermentor recently. Anyways, I bottled straight from it and well didn't like the results, really cloudy and extra hop goodness that wasn't good.
 
Revvy said:
Don't......

The problem with bottling from a primary or secondary instead of using a bottling bucket, is that since you have patiently gone and let your beer settle and clear, in order to mix the priming solution and beer effectively, you would have to stir it in the carboy..which would a) kick up all that nice sediment you have patiently let fall, b) possibly oxydize the beer.

Go to a hardware store and get a translucent or white bucket...but look for one where the 5 gallon mark falls way below the top of the bucket. Usually it will say 5 gallons at 3rd band from the top. (oh get the lid too....I totally regret not getting it when I did.)

Then get a spigot and make a dedicated bottling bucket. It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Mine is the translucent Leaktite brand 5 gallon container with the gallon and liter markings from Homedepot.

61GTWpzk9ML._SL500_AA280_.gif


Here's a pic of mine from my bottling thread.

bottling_wand.jpg


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/revvys-tips-bottler-first-time-otherwise-94812/

And then ONLY use your bottling bucket AS A BOTTLING BUCKET, and you won't have to have this issue again.

If you can't find a spigot today, then rack to the bucket and fill the bottles with the autosiphon, if that's what you wanna do, but you really should move it to a vessel where you can evenly integrate the priming solution and the beer.

But if you try driectly from the primary you will have unsatisfactory results and possibly even cardboard tasting beer.

:mug:
Click to expand...

Hi Revy,
I used some gelatin finings the other day (in the primery) and added the priming solution (speisgabe) and stired it, found that the gelatin "sets" the yeast nicely, was not crystal clear in the bottle, but probably as good as it will get after 2 weeks?

thoughts?
 
hey mates. On this matter my technique is pretty simple: 2 weeks in the primary > chill it to 4°C > put the primming sugar in the bottles and fill straight from the fermenter.
Never had problems with infection sedment or over/under carbonation. I usually get some fining agents on the boilling to help the process.

Take it easy!!
 
BrewHog09 said:
How do you guys feel about cold crashing the night before moving to bottle? I primary in a chest freezer and I really don't want to transfer in my garage for fear of infection, so moving is unavoidable.

Should I crash cool tonight, move it in the morning and siphon at night? Obviously the temperature would raise and some of the protien/yeast/whatever would come back into solution, so it wouldn't be perfect but might be a happy medium.
Click to expand...

Cold crashing is fine. Hell, I usually cold crash for a few days (week if I'm lazy). Why are you wanting to move in the morning and siphon at night? Are you wanting to warm the beer up? If so why? That's the whole purpose of cold crashing is to let as much sediment and suspended "gunk" to settle out. I can understand letting the trub settle out from the movement. But I've bottled w/o issues straight from cold crashing w/o issues.
 
I have spigots on all my fermenters,& an old,large printer stand that's now my FV stand/storage unit. The fermenters sit on top the whole time,bottling bucket on the floor. A length of tubing from the spigot to half way around the bottom of the bottling bucket. I let a few inches of beer rack into the bucket before slowly pouring the priming solution into the surface of the beer. No or little oxygen gets into it this way.
Then just keep racking till sediment just barely starts into the racking tube,then turn off the spigot on the fermenter. A few gentle stirs to make sure the priming solution is mixed & it's good to go.
I then move the FV out of the way (the stand has enough surface area for 3 pales & a bottle tree),& pick up the bottling bucket to put in the fermenter's place. Hook a bottling wand with some 3-4 feet of tubing to the bottling bucket spigot,& I can sit down to bottle away. I have a bottling video in my profile showing all this.
 
I'm with Revvy on this. I see no benefit to cold crashing OR waiting long time periods after moving your fermenter. Much like Revvy mentioned, two weeks at room temp followed by a cold refrigeration period after you're happy with the carbonation level does wonders for clarity. I've gone even a step further and allow my beers to cold condition in the bottle for a month before bottling (likely unneccesay). Unless you brewed a wheat (although i had a 45% Am. Wheat come out crystal clear one time) or uber hoppy beer, it will be pristinely clear.

[email protected]
 
I've never had to cold crash,or add anything to get clear beers. Just 3-5 days after FG,maybe 7 days to get clear or very nearly so. But all are crystal clear 3-7 days from being bottled. I've often wondered if developing pressure in the bottles helps them settle out so quickly?
I also chill my wort down fast enough to where the bottles take some 12 hours to get some chill haze. But not as much as before when chilling took longer. In 24 hours or so,it's gone & the beer is clear again. But 2 weeks in the fridge def helped with thicker head & longer lasting carbonation.
 
I am wondering how you no bottling bucket guys mange to fill bottles without getting crap all over the place. If you have a valve at the bottom of your primary, then the sediment is first to come out and would trickle out for a while like sand in an hour glass. If you just siphon then you need a valve at the end near the bottle and you need to hold the tubing with one hand constantly. Am I wrong? Any pics of a successful primary transfer to bottles?
 
If you're using a regular size spigot,like the Italian one,you are not going to get all the trub running out like that. Mine don't. The suction on the smaller diameter spigots isn't that great. Besides the yeast/trub getting compacted on the bottom to start with.
My cooper's micro brew FV is designed to bottle straight from it,since their bottling wand attaches directly to the spigot. I just take the valve off the end,attach my 3/8" tube to it,& run it into the bottom of my bottling bucket.
 
badbrew said:
I am wondering how you no bottling bucket guys mange to fill bottles without getting crap all over the place. If you have a valve at the bottom of your primary, then the sediment is first to come out and would trickle out for a while like sand in an hour glass. If you just siphon then you need a valve at the end near the bottle and you need to hold the tubing with one hand constantly. Am I wrong? Any pics of a successful primary transfer to bottles?
Click to expand...

Badbrew, I don`t know about your bucket, but mine got a blue valve facing up inside the bucket that avoids sucking must (or usually) all the trub. After chilling the fermenter, the trub gets really compact and I bottle straight from the primary. Works really well and save lots of work...
Cheers
 
Eduardoo said:
Badbrew, I don`t know about your bucket, but mine got a blue valve facing up inside the bucket that avoids sucking must (or usually) all the trub. After chilling the fermenter, the trub gets really compact and I bottle straight from the primary. Works really well and save lots of work...
Cheers
Click to expand...

Do you add carb sugar to the bucket?
 
Eduardoo said:
hey mates. On this matter my technique is pretty simple: 2 weeks in the primary > chill it to 4°C > put the primming sugar in the bottles and fill straight from the fermenter.
Never had problems with infection sedment or over/under carbonation. I usually get some fining agents on the boilling to help the process.

Take it easy!!
Click to expand...

You'll struggle carbonating your beer to style by bottle priming. There's one major problem with your method.
 
Make it easy on yourself. First step: move the primary to your bottling place. Second step: Gather and sanitize all your equipment and boil your sugar solution. Third step: siphon to bottling bucket. Fourth step: bottle

All the cold crashing and individual bottling priming is just wasted effort. IMHO.
 
Do agree with both of you. I just bottle prime because my second bucket is always been used and I think I can avoid some infection with my method.
Tomorrow I`ll bottle a Bohemian Pils using the bottling bucket and primming solution. I`ll post the result.
By the way, tnx for the help mates.
:mug:
 
You won't risk any infections if you rack properly to the bottling bucket. If your primary has a spigot,just connect some tubing to the spigot,& cut it to wrap half way around the bottom of the bottling bucket. Begin racking,& pour in the priming solution slowly into the rising surface of the beer. Doing it this way negates any spalshing or violent stiring that could cause oxidation. And setting the lid on the bottling bucket as far over as possible will help keep things settling into it while racking.
 
I put 450 grams of dextrose in a measuring jug and fill to the one litre mark with boiling water. After the mix has cooled, I transfer to a 1 litre hand pump dispenser bottle (originally a shower gel dispenser bottle) and prime my 500ml swing tops with two squirts. Two squirts = 7ml every time. Actually, I add the 2 squirts after filling the bottle, then cap and shake.

I bottle direct from my fermenters and my method is working well so far, with clear good tasting beer. If I wish to increase/decrease carbonation, I will need to adjust the amount of dextrose in the mix.
 
Since my last post, I have modified and perhaps refined my bottle priming method. I now use LDM at the rate of 360 grams per litre, and use 3 squirts totalling approximately 12mls (the original 2 squirts averaged out at 8ml rather than the 7ml I originally reported).
As a result, I am now German Beer Purity Law compliant. The next step is to experiment with hop additions. Instead of dissolving the LDM in water, I am looking at replacing the water with hop tea.
This would be a very very late hop addition. Any thoughts?

Cheers
PC
 
Thanks UD. I should have been more specific. I am using either Woodforde's/Muntons pre-hopped 2 can kits, or a local pre-hopped all grain wort, so I don't boil. That will probably be the next step after I retire.

My local HB shop had a tasting recently, and two of the brews were pre-hopped kits with hop additions, and very nice they were, particularly the Thomas Cooper IPA.

I used to brew at a UBrew4U operation, so I am familiar with the boil/hop additions procedure. Unfortunately that operation closed down a couple of years ago, and it took a few HBs before I could get to the standard to which I was accustomed. I have moved upwards and am now receiving unsolicited rave reviews from a couple of enthusiastic beer connoisseurs who were guests at a recent family function.

I am looking for a little more bitterness, more taste, and more aroma, so hopefully I am on the right track.
 

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