Help for a kegerator newbie

I just tapped my first keg with a new kegerator. I feel like I followed the instructions precisely, but with the pressure screw all the way open (counter clockwise) for minimal pressure, it still shows 18 psi. If I release the pressure it just immediately climbs back up. If I pour a beer it lowers down to 10 psi and then climbs again, though more slowly. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Am I in danger of blowing up the keg and kegerator?

You need to adjust the regulator to lower the PSI.

And no....at 18 psi it shouldn't blow up...just possibly over carb your beer.

Thanks, but isn't the pressure screw thing the way to lower the psi? It's all the way open/lowered and its still high.

Does it have the lock nut? Make sure thats not stopping you from adjusting it lower. It is a new regulator, might be damaged internally or something?

Is this a store-bought keg, or maybe one that you naturally carbonated?

It sounds to me like the pressure in the keg is 18psi. The gauge is just reading that pressure. If it's a purchased keg, it could be that either you don't have it cold enough, or it's carbonated higher than you think.

Give us some more info!

I got it from Avery Brewing from their tap room. There is a red lever that instructions said to keep closed while adjusting the pressure. I'm assuming that prevented the keg from influencing the gauge.

Not if he is releasing the pressure and it is coming back to 18psi like he described.

I'm wondering the same thing as Kt...does it have a lock nut? If so you will want to loosen it.

ktraver97ss said:

Not if he is releasing the pressure and it is coming back to 18psi like he described.

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CO2 will come out of the headspace to equilibrate things. Though it won't be instant, so you may be correct.

When you say you're venting it, are you venting with the relief ring on the regulator itself?

I don't see anything in the instructions that says lock nut. Can you describe what I should be looking at? Here is the regulator from the instructions. I have to keep turning off the tank because otherwise the gauge spikes all the way to 60.

zachattack said:

CO2 will come out of the headspace to equilibrate things. Though it won't be instant, so you may be correct.

When you say you're venting it, are you venting with the relief ring on the regulator itself?

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Yes.

So let me try to describe things again.

1. I turn off the shut off valve on the regulator.
2. I open the tank all the way. At that point the gauge spikes to 50.
3. Turning the pressure screw makes no difference to the gauge.
4. I can release pressure with the ring but it just shoots back up.


I can really only lower the gauge by opening the shut off valve to the keg and having a super foamy beer explode into a pitcher. And this will only work if the tank is turned off.

Sounds like the regulator maybe bad. There should also be a relief valve on the regulator. The screw on the regulator should lower the psi when turned counter clockwise. The locknut is threaded to the pressure screw )excuse my non technical terms). If there is a screw ten you will want to loosen it so that you can continue to lower the psi (continue turning the pressure screw counter clockwise). After turning the screw to lower the psi let pressure off by using the pressure relief valve (mine at home is a red tab that when flipped up lets pressure vent). The regulator will adjust the the lower psi.

ghosthef said:

Sounds like the regulator maybe bad. There should also be a relief valve on the regulator. The screw on the regulator should lower the psi when turned counter clockwise. The locknut is threaded to the pressure screw )excuse my non technical terms). If there is a screw ten you will want to loosen it so that you can continue to lower the psi (continue turning the pressure screw counter clockwise). After turning the screw to lower the psi let pressure off by using the pressure relief valve (mine at home is a red tab that when flipped up lets pressure vent). The regulator will adjust the the lower psi.

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Does your regulator look like the one in the picture I attached above? Honestly, I'm at a loss. If the regulator is bad where does one go to get it fixed?

I think that's a bad regulator, though it could just be there's a piece of crap stuck in the diaphragm. Somewhere on here there's a procedure to try blasting it out. I think it involves closing the tank, removing the tubing coming out of the regulator and opening the ball valve, opening the regulator all the way up (turn the screw/knob completely counterclockwise), then crack open the tank and quickly close it. Repeat this a couple times, if there's some debris in there that might blast it out.

If that doesn't work, and it's a new regulator, just return it. If it's not new, you can buy a rebuild kit or maybe just replace it.

Ugh! I was really hoping I was simply doing something wrong. I'm going to have to pack up the whole kegerator and send it back. I really wanted to have this thing running with homebrew by Thanksgiving. Doesn't look like that will happen now. Not to mention I've wasted a ton of CO2 and the Avery keg in this process. I suppose the keg isn't a total waste but I will have to go get a tap and --what?-- keep it on ice for a month? Sorry for the venting.

I'd try the procedure I mentioned (and maybe do a search to find the proper procedure) before you return it. Also, just return the regulator, not the whole system. Call them up.

Also also, the keg certainly isn't ruined. possibly overcarbed, depending how long you had it hooked up to the regulator at 18+ PSI, but not ruined.

Here is a picture of my regulator...u can see the red release valve as well as the nut I was speaking of. Hopefully this helps! Keep in mind if you get a replacement get a carbonation stone...you can have your beer carbonated in about a week.

I've got the keg at a good pressure now and won't draw off it until its fixed or I have to disconnect it. My point was more that I will have to disconnect it and will probably be without a kegerator or at least a regulator for weeks. I dont have another place to keep it cool nor do I own a tap. Chances are, by the time this is all corrected, the keg won't be all that good.

ghosthef said:

Here is a picture of my regulator...u can see the red release valve as well as the nut I was speaking of. Hopefully this helps! Keep in mind if you get a replacement get a carbonation stone...you can have your beer carbonated in about a week.

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Yeah that looks to be the same as the "pressure relief valve" on mine.

Well, good luck to you, it sucks to deal with this in a new system.

But I still don't understand why you have to return the whole system when it's just the regulator, or why you aren't willing to try the procedure to clean debris out of it. It'll take 5 minutes, and most of that will be putting the tubing/clamp back on the barb. The keg should be fine either way as long as no contaminants got in when you tapped it, it's really just a big bottle.

I agree with Zack...you really only need exchange the regulator.

ghosthef said:

I agree with Zack...you really only need exchange the regulator.

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Well it's my hope that they will simply exchange the regulator. I bought the unit from Walmart and I'm not confident that they will allow exchange of just a part, particularly for a mail order product.

Zach, I will try your cleaning method to see if it works. I can't tonight, but will tomorrow.

Ah, gotcha.

I did a quick search and it looks like that method's worked for lots of people. So hopefully it'll get you somewhere!

Keep us updated.

zachattack said:

Ah, gotcha.

I did a quick search and it looks like that method's worked for lots of people. So hopefully it'll get you somewhere!

Keep us updated.

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So I tried Zach's method and no dice. I called the manufacturer and they confirmed the regulator is bad. They are sending a new one. Thankfully they are replacing just the regulator not the full unit, but it's going to be a week before its delivered. Thanks for the help everyone!

The replacement regulator arrived today and I'm having the same issues. With the valve (to the keg line) closed and the pressure screw opened up all the way, it still climbs to over 50 psi. If I open keg line valve it will drop down to 20 psi. That's better of course but still too much and the pressure can't be dropped any further. Pulling the pressure release ring will drop it back to zero but it will climb right back up again. Could the problem be the tank?

Photo for reference:

Anyone? I'm thinking of bringing the regulator and tank somewhere to be looked at. What sorts if places might do a repair like this?

A welding supply shop could probably take a look. they could probably sell you another regulator as well. that is what I would do. no one has ever said "damn, I wish I didn't have this spare regulator. " worst case, you could sell the extra one later.

Yes, your local welding supply shop should be able to help.

I just had a thought. On the back of the regulator body there should be embossed labels 'high pressure' and 'low pressure'. It can't hurt to check that the high and low pressure gauges, as well as the in and out ports, are in the proper locations.

I may have missed this information somewhere, but do the symptoms persist when the keg is totally disconnected? As in, line connected to regulator, which is connected to the 'gas-in' coupler, but the coupler is not connected to the keg itself? If this is a commercial keg I'm wondering if something is amiss with your gas-off switch on the regulator. Shot in the dark. Kyle

Also, have you tried closing the pressure valve all the way (turning it clockwise)? Doesn't make sense that screw-out would be pressure up, but also worth a shot. Kyle

Yes, I've tried totally disconnecting the keg and the problem persists. I have also tried closing the screw and the pressure does go up although very slightly.

I'm not sure what you are referring to embossed on the back of the regulator. Here's the back:

Sounds to me like that regulator's bad too. I don't think this has anything to do with the tank. You can bring it into a shop so they can verify this, but my guess is they'll need to send you another regulator

Update: today I took both regulators and the tank to the local Airgas shop. They were extremely nice and helpful. Long story short, the guy took both apart and confirmed they are both bad regulators. There is a needle inside the main housing that the guy said would normally be made much more sturdy. These regulators have the needle epoxied in and therefore was not totally level resulting in an internal leak. He fiddled with it some and got it to work... Kinda sorta. I ended up buying a higher quality regulator from the shop just to ensure reliability. I still plan to contact the manufacturer to get satisfaction, but I guess kegerator regulators and generally crap. Once the new regulator was installed, everything worked perfectly. Thanks to all who provided advice!

You're had a pretty significant stroke of bad luck here with 2 bum regulators in a row, but don't let that discourage you from kegging! It really is a lot of fun. That welding shop sounds like a good place to support. I got a Taprite regulator from the start, but it was just because that's what came with my kit. I'm glad I didn't get a cheaper one!

Thanks Zach! Another footnote to this saga: the sixtel of Avery IPA I bought to christen the kegerator now tastes like a keg from a college party on Saturday that sat out in the sun half floating on melted ice water until Monday then re-chilled. This despite untapping and keeping refrigerated. Lesson learned on bargain hunting on kegerators.