American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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You can dry hop in the primary. However, I HIGHLY recommend you use a hop bag. I just dumped my hops in. It didn't hurt the beer, but it made racking at bottling time a nightmare. My racking cane clogged three times, and the poor flow caused my priming sugar not to mix consistently. :(
Simplicity rules :mug:
 
I just dump my hops in too, but I wrap fine mesh bags around the bottom and the mouth of the siphon. It's still not perfect, but its only about 70% of the nightmare without it. That being said, I just ordered some hop balls from Northern Brewer today for future batches
 
I am fermenting at 70-73* so I assume that is going to be ok. Weather is warm so it is hard to keep the carboy (better bottle) cool. I have it sitting in a party bucket filled with about 6-7" water and I keep adding ice packs. I also have the carboy wrapped in a damp towel. Also had to install blow off tube (my 1st) as the airlock was full of brew 18 hours later and the activity is crazy. I was barley able to get my 3/8" siphon hose over the inner piece on the airlock and have it going to a growler filed with Star San. Did I do everything right?

Due to a scheduling conflict I can dry hop after 10-11 days or wait 15-16 days. I am hoping that I can do it after 10-11 days. Thoughts...? or does it just matter when the fermentation is complete?
 
Also... local HBS does not have simcoe or the pacman yeast. So I talked to the guys there and substituted summit hops for the simcoe and I went with the White Labs yeast.
 
I am fermenting at 70-73* so I assume that is going to be ok. Weather is warm so it is hard to keep the carboy (better bottle) cool. I have it sitting in a party bucket filled with about 6-7" water and I keep adding ice packs. I also have the carboy wrapped in a damp towel. Also had to install blow off tube (my 1st) as the airlock was full of brew 18 hours later and the activity is crazy. I was barley able to get my 3/8" siphon hose over the inner piece on the airlock and have it going to a growler filed with Star San. Did I do everything right?

Due to a scheduling conflict I can dry hop after 10-11 days or wait 15-16 days. I am hoping that I can do it after 10-11 days. Thoughts...? or does it just matter when the fermentation is complete?

You should be fine letting it sit if fermentation is done. I brewed a batch of this in Oct 2010. I bottled it June 2011. Taste is awesome! Just make sure to dry hop just before bottling so you don't loose the aroma.
 
So I brewed an extract batch of this on the 5th and hit the OG dead on (obviously, since its extract...). I took a gravity reading while I opened up the carboy to dryhop last Thursday and got a reading of 1.011. I assume it has continued to drop a little bit since then, but I cant imagine much. Im going to bottle on Wed, but is there a chance this beer will be too dry? I used WLP001 with a 1L starter. The sample tasted awesome, and I cant wait to try it but not sure why my gravity is so low compared to the target in the recipe.
 
Fermentation has slowed way down and I removed the blow off tube on Saturday. Getting a bubble in the airlock every few minutes.

Should I take a gravity reading in 1-2 days before I dry hop or wait the full 14 days? It has only been 9 days so far.
 
Fermentation has slowed way down and I removed the blow off tube on Saturday. Getting a bubble in the airlock every few minutes.

Should I take a gravity reading in 1-2 days before I dry hop or wait the full 14 days? It has only been 9 days so far.

I'd wait until about a week before you plan to bottle. When you add the dryhops then, you can check the SG just to make sure you're on track.
 
I usually never take a gravity reading prior to bottling and have never dry hopped before. I just want to make sure fermentation before dry hopping is complete so I guess I need to take a reading.

I can dry hop tomorrow (in the primary) and then bottle next Wed. Otherwise, I have to wait and can dry hop on Sunday night and then bottle the following Sunday (this would be a 15 day ferment versus an 11 day).
 
Alright. Whatever I made based on this recipe was not exactly the DFH 60 clone I was expecting, however I consider what I made to be one of the best (if not the best) homebrews I've created to date. I'm 100% glad I took a "risk" on the 10 gallon batch without a 5 gallon trial first because it means I have a while before I'll need to brew again.

So. To all who have contributed to this recipe, a major thumbs up. To all who are on the fence? Get off the fence and start brewing.
 
I brew this recipe 2 weeks ago. Just racked this morning and added the dry hop in the secondary. My gravity reading was at 1.016. Which seems to be on track. The beer smell very good and tasted good with no bad after taste. (I had a couple of Dogfish 60 minutes last night), it seems to me that the taste of my sample was pretty close to the real one, and the dry hopping will had the necessary aroma to make it a perfect match. It was a little hazy for me. But, I guess that with another week of dry hopping and three weeks in bottle, everything will clear out.
 
ttt

I was going to brew this today but to late now, (waiting for response) so maybe this weekend.

thank you.

I'm not sure anybody can answer that question, except for you. You are the one that would know your efficiency and which base grain you're using.

But in general, one pound two-row = about .75 pounds LME.
 
I'm not sure anybody can answer that question, except for you. You are the one that would know your efficiency and which base grain you're using.

But in general, one pound two-row = about .75 pounds LME.

Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L is what is on the first post, so I would be getting that.
 
OK well I am lost then, I don't know what to get. I am a scrub. I just saw the extract recipe and can only get a 7lbs bag of LME, so I just needed to know what to replace the other 2.5 LME with. Sorry for my ignorance.
 
OK well I am lost then, I don't know what to get. I am a scrub. I just saw the extract recipe and can only get a 7lbs bag of LME, so I just needed to know what to replace the other 2.5 LME with. Sorry for my ignorance.

You can buy more LME, or use a 3 pound bag of dry extract (DME). Or two one-pound bags would be enough, too, since DME is a bit "stronger" than LME.
 
Thank you, I have had bad luck with the kits I have been getting. I have made 2 IPA that taste horrid. Been waiting 2 months for some HB.

Thanks again.
 
My LHBS only has 6lb and 3lb bags of LME. What do I sub to make up for the 0.5lb of LME? I'm thinking 2 cups of DME should do the trick.

EDIT: Just weighed the bags, they came in at 9.4 lbs. Am I going to be okay 0.1lb short?
 
I wouldnt be worried about .1lb


I started dry hopping today, transferred from my glass to primary/bottling bucket. It's 18L in a 30L bucket. Should I be concerned about so much headspace? It's only going to be a week until I bulk prime and bottle..
 
If you weighed it with the bags, I would assume its 9lbs of extract and the bags weigh about .2 lb each... 9lbs of pale extract puts you around 1.063, you will make good beer, so you decide. I would probably just buy some DME and add it. Save the rest of it for starters.

Im really happy with how my beer turned out. Really is one of the best IPAs Ive had, and I make it a point to drink a lot of them.

Very solid and simple recipe Yooper. Thanks for sharing it.

I couldnt find amarillo at the time I was brewing this, so I went with Warrior, Simcoe and Centennial. Great combination.
 
@sangre you should look into Hopville.com

I wanted to brew this to take to the beach in a few weeks, but the original recipe comes out over 7% abv, and I wanted something a little less strong so it's more of a session beer. So I plugged in the original recipe to see how it would turn out (alcohol content, color, bitterness, etc) and then started modifying things to see if I could brew a similar beer that's closer to 6% abv (since that's what the original is, too).

Here's what I came up with: http://hopville.com/recipe/815655/american-ipa-recipes/dogfish-head-60-minute-ipa-clone

My LHBS recommended that I should use Ringwood as the yeast, since that's what Dogfish Head uses, so I thought I'd give it a shot. My OG was spot on with what hopville said it would be, and after 12 days fermenting, my FG was also spot on. I'm going to check again tonight and if it hasn't moved I'll start dry-hopping.

But anyway, tools like hopville, beer smith, etc. will allow you to mess around with a recipe to see how changes/substitutions will affect the end result.
 
Those of you who used ringwood yeast. How did it compare to the real thing? I have only brewed this once and I used pacman.
 
Holy crap that was a lot of work. Extract recipe, second brew ever. Ended up using 13 dixie cups, one every 5 min.

325901_10100715426870636_2516689_63391261_4963585_o.jpg
 
BeachBeerBoobs said:
Holy crap that was a lot of work. Extract recipe, second brew ever. Ended up using 13 dixie cups, one every 5 min.

But it's definitely more fun than just watching, right? I used jello shot cups - one every two minutes :)

IMG_20110818_211104.jpg
 
Primary (70-74*) – 2 weeks
Dry hop primary (70-75*) – 1 week
Carb at room temp (72-76*) – 2 weeks

Have tested 2 beers from the 5 gallon batch. Both had some profile.

I used Irish moss but the beer is still “hazy”. What else could I have done to fix this? Maybe dry hop in secondary?

Since I could not get the same hops (Simcoe) as the recipe calls for, obviously the profile is not the same as the DFH 60 IPA. I substituted Summit hops per guy at local HBS. It is also a more bitter of an IPA then I usually care for, so will this mellow at all over time?

It is carbed ok but could be a little more carbed (I think). Not sure it would help to take all out of the frig, shake and set at room temp for a few more days. Any thoughts?

Head retention is lacking so not sure if my dishwasher left behind some nasties. We do not use Jet Dry but there is always a little bit of crusty detergent left in the dishwasher. Prior beer at great head retention though…

Any help is appreciated :0)
 
I did this up on 4 Aug and dry hopped a week later. Today I added some gelatin to help clear things...It has been 10 days and I am still getting bubbles in the airlock every 30 seconds or so. I should be kegging it this Friday.

You can see my brewing saga here:
and here:

It was about 95 degrees towards the end...hot here in NoCal. Going to be serving this at my poker party on 7 October...yum yum.
 
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I have a ton of cascade on hand how far off would it be to use them in place of the amarillo?and is there a dirrerence between amerillo and amarillo gold. Thanks
 
I have a ton of cascade on hand how far off would it be to use them in place of the amarillo?and is there a dirrerence between amerillo and amarillo gold. Thanks

Cascade and amarillo are similar, but not the same. Amarillo is grapefruity, and very much so. It goes great with simcoe.
 
Ok ill just do it right and buy some ,is there a difference between amerillo and amerillo gold? Thanks
 
I have some "cara amber (biscuit)" LB 25-30 which seems to have about the same ppg and L values as the tf amber. Is this a good subsitute for the amber? It seems closer than the maris otter. Just wondering if anyone has tried it?
 
I have some "cara amber (biscuit)" LB 25-30 which seems to have about the same ppg and L values as the tf amber. Is this a good subsitute for the amber? It seems closer than the maris otter. Just wondering if anyone has tried it?

"Cara" anything means caramel malt. You'd be better off with a biscuit malt, victory malt, Munich malt, etc, but not crystal malt.
 
Yooper, I was thinking, how would you/would you use a hopback to make this beer? Would you do more Amarillo and Simco, would you cut down on the amount of a&s that you dry hopped with, or not use one at all?
 
Planning on doing this in the very near future.
Unfortunately can't get pacman. For those that have done multiple batches using different yeasts, what worked the best? Yooper: do you have a preference?

Not sure if I'm going to do this as extract, or make it my first AG. Suggestions?
 
Planning on doing this in the very near future.
Unfortunately can't get pacman. For those that have done multiple batches using different yeasts, what worked the best? Yooper: do you have a preference?

Not sure if I'm going to do this as extract, or make it my first AG. Suggestions?

http://www.google.com/#q=pacman+yeast&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=shop&ei=0fF7TrLnC6aEsgKS_oTBAw&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=6&sqi=2&ved=0CAwQ_AUoBQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=91abbb5f5390c432&biw=1440&bih=793

I just picked up a few packs from rite brew a couple weeks ago, but they appear to be all sold out, but some of those other sites still have some on hand.

My personal recommendation is to order some pacman as I've never gotten this brew to taste right(was always good, just not great) with any other yeast, atleast IMHO.

On the downside, I finally got my pacman, and went to Midwest to get supplies, only to be informed that there is a Simcoe shortage going on, so I've got a mine going with Amarilo and Citra now, we we'll have to see. Fortunately I ordered a couple extra packs so I can brew this up again when Simcoe becomes available again.
 
Yea, I was just looking for Simcoe and couldn't find it. But the harvest just happened/is happening right? So they should be around soon I'd guess.

Guess I'll put this on the back burner til I can follow the original recipe
 
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